The Ford Barn

James Rogers · 05-15-2010, 08:03 PM

I have several Model T rods and have a hard time understanding how they oil. I don't see any holes or grooves that channel oil to the bearings so unless they oil like a Briggs and Stratton I don't see how it works.

If someone could explain this system to me I might be able to pour and bore a few sets and get some practice in cutting T rods. I already do A and B rods but haven't done any T's yet.

J Franklin · 05-15-2010, 08:36 PM

They are just oiled by splash like a Briggs & Stratton. They can have oil grooves cut like on A rods. Some are even drilled and fitted with chevy dippers.

Model T Monte · 05-15-2010, 10:28 PM

I`ve often wondered why a rod cap hasn`t been made like the A caps to install at rebuild time, or does someone offer this? They have to be poured an bored anyway. Just thinkin out loud. Monte

BRENT in 10-uh-C · 05-16-2010, 06:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J Franklin

They are just oiled by splash like a Briggs & Stratton. They can have oil grooves cut like on A rods. Some are even drilled and fitted with chevy dippers.

I'm thinking all the B&S engines I've ever worked on had a dipper in the bottom. While I agree with you that they can have dippers & X grooves, --this is not how they left the factory, ...so how did they originally get their lubrication?

Roadster62 · 05-16-2010, 06:22 AM

With the engine and transmission sharing the same oil I think that flywheel keep a fairly good mist of oil flowing at all times. Adding an accessorie screen to the trans inspection cover helps catch any debris that may plug the line to the front.

redmodelt · 05-16-2010, 10:17 AM

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By wet splash, the motor when running created a mist of oil in the engine. The oil collected on the inside surfaces and ran down to where it was needed. At 35 MPH with standard rear end you would only be at around 1400 RPM.

James Rogers · 05-17-2010, 03:02 PM

Would a champhored hole on the top of the big end be of any benefit? Would it even work?

Straightpipes · 05-17-2010, 05:30 PM

Never try to outguess Henry.

jackdaron · 05-17-2010, 07:34 PM

Some rods have a hole on the top of journal for oil to migrate in.

Model T Monte · 05-17-2010, 08:04 PM

I wouldnt think it would hurt any thing if not large enough to weaken the rod. Monte

Kohnke Rebabbitting · 05-17-2010, 10:38 PM

James, pattern the stock T rod after the A & B rods. Drill two holes, in the web on both sides, and one in the cap, and use the tin T dippers The two holes in the web are for air, and old oil exchange. You have to machine the part lines, and put in the right amount of shims, which is normally two .032 solid brass shims , and one .032 laminated, at .002 each piece. We have to make our own shims, as you can't buy the right kind for a spun poured rod. This makes the nut and bolt hole on the rod bolt line up so you don't have the nut way below the end of the hole in the end of the bolt. The other reason for the right amount of shims in the rods is to get the same amount of babbitt in the cap, and the rod and keep the 7" center distance. Many rebuilders bore out the T rods, with out the right amount of shims, and take out alot of material in the cap, which makes the cap unsafe. To put in "X" groves, you have to bore the rod out to a certain size so that you have room for the "X" grove cutter, as they brake the cutting end off very easy, if you hit steel. The last thing is they should be broached on the center line, also for oil, and air exchange. NEVER MAKE AN OIL WELL ON A DIPPER ROD, that would trap any foreign material in the well, and keep it circling the shaft. We always poured about 5, to 8 hundred rods at a time, then machine them all, and weigh each one on a Gram Scale, and lay them in long lines, ane then pick them by weight, from the light end of the line, to the heavy end, so you didn't have to mutilate any rods, when you balanced a set. To do them that way, you will have 3 times the hours, as an Model A, or B rod. Now, as for a debating if a Model T rod will last longer with X groves, and dippers, how many A, and B guys do you think you find, that would use A & B rods with out dippers, and X groves mmmmmmmm? thanks Herm.

05-15-2010, 08:03 PM	#1
James Rogers Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Asheville,NC Posts: 3,104	Model T rod oiling I have several Model T rods and have a hard time understanding how they oil. I don't see any holes or grooves that channel oil to the bearings so unless they oil like a Briggs and Stratton I don't see how it works. If someone could explain this system to me I might be able to pour and bore a few sets and get some practice in cutting T rods. I already do A and B rods but haven't done any T's yet.

05-15-2010, 08:36 PM	#2
J Franklin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oregon Posts: 5,963	Re: Model T rod oiling They are just oiled by splash like a Briggs & Stratton. They can have oil grooves cut like on A rods. Some are even drilled and fitted with chevy dippers. Last edited by J Franklin; 05-15-2010 at 08:37 PM. Reason: grammer

05-15-2010, 10:28 PM	#3
Model T Monte Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Vici,Okla. Posts: 256	Re: Model T rod oiling I`ve often wondered why a rod cap hasn`t been made like the A caps to install at rebuild time, or does someone offer this? They have to be poured an bored anyway. Just thinkin out loud. Monte

05-16-2010, 06:22 AM	#5
Roadster62 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Ridgefield, Ct Posts: 3,441	Re: Model T rod oiling With the engine and transmission sharing the same oil I think that flywheel keep a fairly good mist of oil flowing at all times. Adding an accessorie screen to the trans inspection cover helps catch any debris that may plug the line to the front.

05-16-2010, 10:17 AM	#6
redmodelt Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Portland OR Posts: 6,340	Re: Model T rod oiling Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) By wet splash, the motor when running created a mist of oil in the engine. The oil collected on the inside surfaces and ran down to where it was needed. At 35 MPH with standard rear end you would only be at around 1400 RPM.

05-17-2010, 03:02 PM	#7
James Rogers Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Asheville,NC Posts: 3,104	Re: Model T rod oiling Would a champhored hole on the top of the big end be of any benefit? Would it even work?

05-17-2010, 05:30 PM	#8
Straightpipes Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Ballston Spa, NY Posts: 789	Re: Model T rod oiling Never try to outguess Henry.

05-17-2010, 07:34 PM	#9
jackdaron Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Brownsburg,In. Posts: 383	Re: Model T rod oiling Some rods have a hole on the top of journal for oil to migrate in.

05-17-2010, 08:04 PM	#10
Model T Monte Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Vici,Okla. Posts: 256	Re: Model T rod oiling I wouldnt think it would hurt any thing if not large enough to weaken the rod. Monte

05-17-2010, 10:38 PM	#11
Kohnke Rebabbitting Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: 60615,330th Ave.,Clare, Iowa, 50524 Posts: 1,457	Re: Model T rod oiling James, pattern the stock T rod after the A & B rods. Drill two holes, in the web on both sides, and one in the cap, and use the tin T dippers The two holes in the web are for air, and old oil exchange. You have to machine the part lines, and put in the right amount of shims, which is normally two .032 solid brass shims , and one .032 laminated, at .002 each piece. We have to make our own shims, as you can't buy the right kind for a spun poured rod. This makes the nut and bolt hole on the rod bolt line up so you don't have the nut way below the end of the hole in the end of the bolt. The other reason for the right amount of shims in the rods is to get the same amount of babbitt in the cap, and the rod and keep the 7" center distance. Many rebuilders bore out the T rods, with out the right amount of shims, and take out alot of material in the cap, which makes the cap unsafe. To put in "X" groves, you have to bore the rod out to a certain size so that you have room for the "X" grove cutter, as they brake the cutting end off very easy, if you hit steel. The last thing is they should be broached on the center line, also for oil, and air exchange. NEVER MAKE AN OIL WELL ON A DIPPER ROD, that would trap any foreign material in the well, and keep it circling the shaft. We always poured about 5, to 8 hundred rods at a time, then machine them all, and weigh each one on a Gram Scale, and lay them in long lines, ane then pick them by weight, from the light end of the line, to the heavy end, so you didn't have to mutilate any rods, when you balanced a set. To do them that way, you will have 3 times the hours, as an Model A, or B rod. Now, as for a debating if a Model T rod will last longer with X groves, and dippers, how many A, and B guys do you think you find, that would use A & B rods with out dippers, and X groves mmmmmmmm? thanks Herm.