generator

[56yblock]

hello everybody,
i must to change my generator ,i bought a rebuilt one, is this i need to polarized it or not ? maybe i need to change the regulator too ? sorry for the pic quality

[darrell]

i never had to polarize one but the odd time you have to.just put it on and start it and see what happens

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by 56yblock

i must to change my generator ,i bought a rebuilt one, is this i need to polarized it or not ? maybe i need to change the regulator too ?

You need to polarize the system.


http://texaspowerwagon.com/polarize.htm


As for the VR, as long as it is functioning, no real need (IMO). The VR is adjustable. See SHOP MANUAL.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by 56yblock

hello everybody,
i must to change my generator , ... i bought a rebuilt one, is this i need to polarized it or not ? ...

Yes you do, it's very easy, takes about 30 seconds...
maybe a minute if you have to get out a screwdriver first.

- in order to properly polarize the generator...
before you start the engine, remove the Field wire from the voltage regulator and touch it to the Battery terminal of the voltage regulator (there will be a very slight spark) then reconnect the Field wire to it's position on the voltage regulator. -
.

[Daves55Sedan]

Ditto what dmsfrr said. After polarizing, test the regulator in the following manner: Start engine and leave running at idle speed. Pull the positive battery cable off the battery (and hold it, without allowing the cable to touch anything). If engine is still running, the regulator is good. If engine stops running, the generator is not charging the battery (probably meaning that the regulator is bad, assuming your rebuilt generator does not have a problem).
Some shops can test, clean, repair and adjust a salvageable regulator. A new replacement regulator costs about $50.00.

[KULTULZ]

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Start engine and leave running at idle speed. Pull the positive battery cable off the battery (and hold it, without allowing the cable to touch anything).

If engine is still running, the regulator is good. If engine stops running, the generator is not charging the battery (probably meaning that the regulator is bad,

I would side-step this practice.

You just need a simple hand held test meter to verify proper charging.

[56yblock]

thanks for your answers guys ,what kind of regulator i'll must to take with my new generator?

[56yblock]

here's the new one ,its a 5838

[KULTULZ]

Do you actually need a new VR? Did you check GEN output before the VR?

Usually, it is recommended to replace the VR with ALT replacement as it is usually solid state,

[56yblock]

it's just to have the both , the regulator it's rusty and old ,like the pic of the generator that i was posted

[KULTULZ]

...whew ...

Originally, here was more than one VR as it had to match the AMP output oF the GEN. I have no idea in this period of off-shore junk how it is done.

Do you have the original GEN? The AMP should be stamped on the case.

It is a '56 223 I-SIX, correct?

[56yblock]

what kind of voltage regulator i'll must to take for my generator?

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

Originally, there was more than one VR as it had to match the AMP output of the GEN. I have no idea in this period of off-shore junk how it is done.

Do you have the original GEN? The AMP should be stamped on the case.

Originally Posted by 56yblock

what kind of voltage regulator i'll must to take for my generator?

The replacement VOLTAGE REGULATOR must match the AMP output of the GENERATOR.

On your replacement GENERATOR, did the re-builder state the AMP output? You would buy the REGULATOR calibrated for your/that amperage GENERATOR.

Is your 56 a USA or FORD of CANADA model? 6V or 12 V System?

The original GENERATOR case should be stamped with the AMPERAGE RATING (also FORD Stamping ID No.) as it ID's as how it was built. You cannot go by this STAMPING ID with a rebuilt GENERATOR.

Just for example, FORD offered a 30A-40A-50A and 60A system.

[rotorwrench]

The original voltage regulator for the 1956 would have been the B6A-10505-A. It was obsoleted by the B8A-10505-A eventually which can work for systems up to near 42 amps. Most were likely set at 35-amps. If you have a car that originated in Canada, it may have 6-volt. In that case, it would need a 6-volt unit. The 6-volt units were 30-amp and date back to 1939 so most replacements will work for them.

The polarization is important to get the proper polarity of residual magnetism in the field cores of the generator. This is why it's a good idea to "flash the field" as previously described. the magnetism in the cores is enough to close the cut out pole in the VR and bring the generator set on line.

Some of the new replacement VR units are crap. The old ones were actually repairable and adjustable. The new ones not so much. As long as it puts out near 14-volts at the battery, it will be OK. Who knows what the current limiter is set to on these new ones.

[56yblock]

my car it come from Ontario Canada, and it's 12 volts

[Oldmics]

Ford part# B6A 10505A


Concours quality regulator cover.


Enjoy,Oldmics

[56yblock]

here's the reference of my voltage regulator, CFAP-10505-A it's a 30 amps 12 volts, i thinks it's a old reference.. i dont find it ....

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by 56yblock

here's the reference of my voltage regulator, CFAP-10505-A it's a 30 amps 12 volts, i thinks it's a old reference.. i dont find it ....

The C in the PREFIX CFAP identifies the regulator as FORD of CANADA and you need their cataloging.

The VR is 30A so a 30A VR from MAC's should work fine. Remember it is mechanical and may have to be adjusted to perform correctly. Procedure in SHOP MANUAL.

[rotorwrench]

I think the FAP was for tractors but it may work just fine for other applications with low amp systems.

[56yblock]

when i'll receive my generator i'll check with the voltage regulator if it works fine...