Electrical Issue

[Chevmn56]

Just recently got the 31 Tudor. I have been reading on line about the car and pouring over the car learning and tinkering. I found the dash light and the dome light not working. After some searching online i found out the dash light is wired right to the ammeter and the dome light is wired from the power block in the engine bay. Needless to say the car is not wired that way. Whoever did the wiring picked the power off of the same wire that feeds dash light (spliced together).

I figured no big deal for know ill just get them working and make it right later. I hooked everything back up and everything worked.....but in cleaning and restoring the dash light, i guess i cleaned it to good it has a hard time staying OFF it likes to flip on. The Dome switch was real scratchy so i cleaned it with some contact cleaner and got it working pretty good. So i go out this morning to check the dash light to see if its still off, it was...since it was dark i wanted to flip the light on and bask in my repair and the damn light was dim i could barely see it.

The dash light has had the shielding removed and a fuse holder put on it and is no where near original. I hate to order a new light but to do it right and have a piece of mind that its OFF i am going too have too. Since there is a fuse and it was unhooked initially i am pretty sure there is a issue. What could be causing the drain on that circuit???? If a wire was touching the car body anywhere it would take the fuse. Could the dash switch or the dome switch (mounted on the right side door frame beneath the grab handle in wood) be causing the drain......Im kinda stumped. What vendor has the most correct Dash Light and Dome switch......The dome switch i have has the brass solder point on it for the ground kinda cool i see those a lot in antique radios i repair.

Thanks in advance Pat

[1931 flamingo]

Is your battery charged up??
Paul in CT

[Bob C]

The most likely place for a battery drain is the brake light switch or the cut out.

Bob

[Dick Steinkamp]

If you have a 31 Tudor with a factory stock dome light, that could be a rare Deluxe Tudor...1931 only and very few (relatively) made. It should also have cowl lights, an adjustable driver's seat, rear center armrest and other deluxe features.

When you report that the "light was dim", do you mean JUST that light, or was the battery near dead also?

[Chevmn56]

Originally Posted by Dick Steinkamp

If you have a 31 Tudor with a factory stock dome light, that could be a rare Deluxe Tudor...1931 only and very few (relatively) made. It should also have cowl lights, an adjustable driver's seat, rear center armrest and other deluxe features.

When you report that the "light was dim", do you mean JUST that light, or was the battery near dead also?

Brand new and charged started and ran awesome for a week!

[Chevmn56]

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Originally Posted by Dick Steinkamp

If you have a 31 Tudor with a factory stock dome light, that could be a rare Deluxe Tudor...1931 only and very few (relatively) made. It should also have cowl lights, an adjustable driver's seat, rear center armrest and other deluxe features.

When you report that the "light was dim", do you mean JUST that light, or was the battery near dead also?

Well it does have a dome light and cowl lights and a adjustable drivers seat only.....i believe the interior was redone awhile ago it does have side arm rests but i have not yet noticed a center arm rest....it also has vacuum operated windshield wiper (not plural).....what other deluxe features?

When i first hooked the wiring up and tried the switches the lights shined nice and bright (for 6V) the dash light lite up the dash niceley you could read the gauges. the next morning when i went out the battery was almost dead......the lights lite but you could barely see it.

[Chevmn56]

Originally Posted by Bob C

The most likely place for a battery drain is the brake light switch or the cut out.

Bob

Ill check them out, what about the light switch??? man there is a ton of slop in that switch!!??

[Patrick L.]

Is the bulb correct for the voltage ? If so, there may be a poor ground or connection somewhere.

When you mention draw, what do you mean ? Your definition may be different than mine. I read no mention of the battery being drained. To find a draw just keep disconnecting things until the draw disappears and then thats the problem.

[Chevmn56]

Originally Posted by Patrick L.

Is the bulb correct for the voltage ? If so, there may be a poor ground or connection somewhere.

When you mention draw, what do you mean ? Your definition may be different than mine. I read no mention of the battery being drained. To find a draw just keep disconnecting things until the draw disappears and then thats the problem.

I am pretty sure the bulb is right it worked fine yesterday but ill check it out.....a draw would be something in the circuit that is still drawing current even though it may be off. I assumed the battery was drained being the lights no longer where bright..... I didn't have time to see if it would start before i went to work but i will tonight before i put a charger on it........some one said the cutout would draw on the battery what is a good replacement?????Fun Projects??

[Tom Wesenberg]

Find the drain ASAP, because draining starting batteries is really tough on them and shortens their life.

In the meantime be sure to keep the battery charged and remove a battery cable, or pull the fuse or turn off the master switch if you installed either of these two items.

[Chevmn56]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Find the drain ASAP, because draining starting batteries is really tough on them and shortens their life.

In the meantime be sure to keep the battery charged and remove a battery cable, or pull the fuse or turn off the master switch if you installed either of these two items.

It has a fuse on the wire going up to terminal block....with this removed it will crank but will not start. I assume that's the main feed to the terminal block????? is that good enough???

[Tom Wesenberg]

Yes, keep the fuse pulled when you're not driving the car.

[Patrick L.]

To find the draw,
disconnect a battery post [ either is fine but most think it should be a the ground]
Attach a test light/volt meter between that battery post and its cable terminal
If it lights[shows a draw], keep disconnecting things until the light goes out [ now you found your problem]

The fuse mounted to the starter is the main feed, its for everything except the starter. Some of those fuse holders can be bothersome. Some fellas split that up into other circuits.

If your draw is the cutout, it can be opened up and 'maybe' fixed. If its a repro, I'd suggest finding an original and then installing one of Tom W's regulators.

[Chevmn56]

Originally Posted by Patrick L.

To find the draw,
disconnect a battery post [ either is fine but most think it should be a the ground]
Attach a test light/volt meter between that battery post and its cable terminal
If it lights[shows a draw], keep disconnecting things until the light goes out [ now you found your problem]

The fuse mounted to the starter is the main feed, its for everything except the starter. Some of those fuse holders can be bothersome. Some fellas split that up into other circuits.

If your draw is the cutout, it can be opened up and 'maybe' fixed. If its a repro, I'd suggest finding an original and then installing one of Tom W's regulators.

Thanks for the info PatricK L.....a light like that has a ice pick and a alligator clip????alos who carries a a Original cutout and where would i get Toms cutout????

[john in illinois]

New cutouts are verry cheep quality. You would be better off with a good used original-mabe Burts Model A parts in Col. If you find one tou could use Toms regulator in the generator. PM him and I am sure he could fix you up.

Fun Projects regulator and cutout combination is also a very reliable choice.
John

[cpf240]

Yours may be rebuild-able. Try contacting Tom through the message service here on the forum.

[Patrick L.]

Tom would be our forums very own Tom Wesenberg.

Your cutout may very well be rebuildable/adjustable if its an original. One may be available here at 'the swap meet' or one of the Model A vendors such as Burts.

Yes, an automotive test light is the 'ice pick and alligator clip' thingy. A new one will have a 12v bulb in it, but, thats OK, it'll just be dim. Its indispensable for old auto work.

[Chevmn56]

Originally Posted by Patrick L.

Tom would be our forums very own Tom Wesenberg.

Your cutout may very well be rebuildable/adjustable if its an original. One may be available here at 'the swap meet' or one of the Model A vendors such as Burts.

Yes, an automotive test light is the 'ice pick and alligator clip' thingy. A new one will have a 12v bulb in it, but, thats OK, it'll just be dim. Its indispensable for old auto work.

I PM'ed Tom yesterday i hope to hear from him soon......well i took my automotive light lol and did some trouble shooting last night i unhooked the ground (+) and touched the pick to the post like you all said here are the results.

1. With the ignition key off and the fuse out that feeds the terminal block
No light came on

2. I then inserted the fuse and with the key still off
Light came on

3. Pulled the cutout out of the circuit completly
Light came on

4. Reinstalled the cutout and pulled the red wire off the coil
Light did not come on

So in my thinking the problem could be the red wire may be rubbing the cowl, coil, ignition switch, or something in the distributor if im reading the print i got off the internet right (mine still haven't come). Usually coils will just shit the bead......and it ran good when the battery was charged so im thinking the coil and distributor are fine...kinda leaves the ignition switch.......any thoughts

[SeaSlugs]

is it an origonal popout or a cheap aftermarket? the cheap aftermarket switches are crap (the like $13 ones) the $60 nurex ones are pretty good quality.

time to pull the dash panel and see what you got going on back there. your on the right track i think. Could also pull the panel off and hook your test light up and remove the power feeds to your dash and dome light one at a time to isolate them.

[Chevmn56]

Originally Posted by SeaSlugs

is it an origonal popout or a cheap aftermarket? the cheap aftermarket switches are crap (the like $13 ones) the $60 nurex ones are pretty good quality.

time to pull the dash panel and see what you got going on back there. your on the right track i think. Could also pull the panel off and hook your test light up and remove the power feeds to your dash and dome light one at a time to isolate them.

Hey Slugs it is a cheap aftermarket switch....did the 31 come with a popout switch?????

The Dash and Dome light are not wired as they should have been originally so for know i have pulled the fuse that they had on the dome light and dash light circuit. Ill get hose wired correctly after i get the drain figured out...Thanks for the info on the switch.