28 CCPU door lock barrel

[pooch]

Did a 28 CCPU come with a door key lock as standard?

I see rubber plugs in hole in pictures.

Have a repo barrel in door now, and it comes with a long pointed square shaft which protrudes inside over a inch.

Is this just cut off level, same as door handle is?

Or does any lever or anything inside go on this square end?

[Joe K]

I believe rubber plugs were the OEM. It is possible to fit a cylinder to the RH door (IIRC) as that is the way the door was used on the Model T (from whence it came) Not sure on the drivers side door.

You probably want to cut the pointed square shaft to fit if you see an interference with the inner skin of the door - or leave it if there appears to be room for it.

This one of those places where you can't do it wrong?

Joe K

[pooch]

Add that this is RHD, so key lock on drivers door is good.

I see that the LH door locks from inside by moving inside door lever backwards.

The RH door does not lock by lever , only by turning key barrel.

Note that there is provision for fitting a barrel from factory, because there is a threaded hole that holds a screw that tightens on side of barrel.

Seems strange that only a rubber bung was OEM and it is on RHD door only .

How did USA lock their CCPU/s?

It seems to me on a LHD the only way is to get out and walk to RH side and open door, step in and reach over and push LH door lever back, then step out and close door and key lock.....

Am I missing something between RHD and LHD?



Suppose I just chop this long bit off flush....

[Joe K]

How did USA lock their CCPU/s?

I don't think they did. After all this was just a TRUCK - and who would leave anything of value inside their employer's vehicle?

Actually, I think a lot of the trucks got your "conversion." This a matter of convenience more than anything. And it was what the motoring public was used to in the Model T.

Of course the early Ts didn't have an operating door on the drivers (LH American) side, this done in cost savings certainly by Ford, but also out of some concern for safety. The thought was apparently held over to the 26-27 closed car Ts hence no position for the key lock cylinder on the driver door. Don't want a potential repeat customer hurting himself unlocking the driver side door while standing in the street.

Your pix as you show it with the key lock spindle sticking out definitely isn't right: you'll have to get your hacksaw out and trim that back. But the leatherette panel will cover, of course.

I'm a little surprised with the lock cylinder in place you can't use the inside handle door lock. I can't test this as I have never installed a lock cylinder (although I bought one back during my first trip to the parts vendor now many years ago.) or examined the latchset for applicability. Inside locking was considered a safety thing then just as the door lock/pull up knob is now (Or shortly ago. I'm showing my age here.)

Like your LH door both of my doors are locked from the inside by pushing the knob back. Forward opens. But the spindle of the key lockset MAY make this aspect inoperable?

You may be able to extract your door latch and examine it internally and gain more clues on this keylock spindle thing - you may have done this already. My latches are out currently and I would do this except I'm at some distance from my shop away on business (and will be so through the end of the month.)

I see they're reproducing the 28-29 door latch now - available on Ebay. Mine both in pretty good shape but one always likes to see repops of quality being done - and the latches are somewhat intricate and prone to rust.

Joe K

[pooch]

Thanks for info Joe, will double check tomorrow and pull both door mechs out and see if the RHD is different in the lever back lock or not.

It did not move back to lock like LH even when key spindle was not in.

[Steve Plucker]

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Those latches can be a B*&%# to remove without screwing something up...there has to be some sort of secret when removing them as to not screw them or the door up.

Pluck

[Tom Wesenberg]

I agree with Pluck about the R&R of the door latch. I'd sure like to see how the factory did it without chipping the paint off the door skin. I've tried every way I can, but it needs to get pried past the door edge.

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by Steve Plucker

Those latches can be a B*&%# to remove without screwing something up...there has to be some sort of secret when removing them as to not screw them or the door up.

Pluck

I didn't find the pickup door so bad - except for the square shaft that turns and opens the door from the T handle. You'll find this as you remove the T handle on the outside. The square "rusts" into it's square receiver making it necessary to approach the latch with the inside leatherette covering removed (and use a punch IIRC? Maybe just pull hard?)

Removal of the latch comes out the side (see pix above) and "down" (to clear the handle and allow it to exit the window slot. You want to remove both the knob and likely the sill escutcheon for the window.

Joe K

[pooch]

My 2 latches slid out real easy with no prying...


Here's LH side internal locking one, see the difference, no tab and lever goes right back and gets spring caught in locked position.







Here's the right hand side one.

Note it does NOT move back to lock due to the tab arrowed and it has no lock latching spring gizmo as LH side does.

Maybe this RH lock is made only for RHD cars?

It must be different from USA made because you say yours moves and locks.

[Ed Saniewski]

Joe K, how do I take the lock apart to replace the springs? there are 4 bent tabs that seem to be holding it together. I am worried if I straighten the tabs they will break off. Thanks, Ed Saniewski

[wrndln]

I'm not Joe, but if the latch has not been open up before, I would think straightening out the tabs, seperating the latch, bending them back down after the work has been completed and wouldn't cause the tabs to break off. If the latch has been opened before, there might be problems the second or third time. I have a 29 CCPU I hope to restore after the 28 coupe and 29 phaeton. I will need to restore the latches so I would be interested in how the disassembly and reassemble goes.
Rusty Nelson

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by Ed Saniewski

Joe K, how do I take the lock apart to replace the springs? there are 4 bent tabs that seem to be holding it together. I am worried if I straighten the tabs they will break off. Thanks, Ed Saniewski

Your worry is well founded. In my case it was the first time. Gentle ease-ease-ease with a screwdriver was my key to this door (Ha!). But ever present in my mind was the possibility.

The solution if they do break off is called a spot weld. Not original, but certainly possible - and you can't really see the repair.

I do think there must be a difference for offshore RH locks. My Right and Left were identical mirror images. Except the right door skin has the hole.

Edit: I just went back and looked at Pooch's RH/LH pix. BOTH sides of mine have the finger/latch. Hmmm...

Joe K

[Ed Saniewski]

Thanks Rusty & Joe, I will try and pry. I kind of felt the same about spot welding them back together. Ed Saniewski

[pooch]

Originally Posted by Joe K

Your worry is well founded. In my case it was the first time. Gentle ease-ease-ease with a screwdriver was my key to this door (Ha!). But ever present in my mind was the possibility.

The solution if they do break off is called a spot weld. Not original, but certainly possible - and you can't really see the repair.

I do think there must be a difference for offshore RH locks. My Right and Left were identical mirror images. Except the right door skin has the hole.

Edit: I just went back and looked at Pooch's RH/LH pix. BOTH sides of mine have the finger/latch. Hmmm...

Joe K

Joe, are you saying your RH side does NOT have the bent tab on top and has the spring to lock the lever back....

Also does your RH one have the mechanism for passing the key square shaft thru?

Note my LH pic shows an empty hole and the RH pic shows the bit that holds the shaft , I can t see inside to see exactly what moves to key lock the lever.

Maybe some researcher can find when and where these RHD locks were made and fitted.

Maybe ford thought the colonies were full of rogues and only sent lockable trucks to them...

[Joe K]

Joe, are you saying your RH side does NOT have the bent tab on top and has the spring to lock the lever back....

Both sides look similar to your LH lock. I'm thinking neither of them had the lock square (I see on yours one has it and the other has an empty hole) This may have been why I never used the lock cylinder and stem - it had nothing to turn!

I confess it's been a while and now we're getting into details I can necessarily recall - and I don't have the latchset in front of me - I'm half a continent away from the Ford at the moment. (Oh, the inhumanity of it all...)

I will look again. In fact, I have another pair of doors that came out of the basketcase I can look at too.

I'm due back home at the end of the month. I'll reply further then.

Joe K

[Ed Saniewski]

Pooch, I had my rt. side latch apart yesterday and it has the tab to keep the inside door handle from locking. I will try to get to the other door this weekend. I wonder if the tab was to prevent both doors from being locked without any way to unlock them from the outside. The key latch dose not operate the door handle, it only blocks the door handle from turning. Dose this make sense? By the way, Joe, I had to spot weld 3 of the 4 tabs.

[pooch]

Ed, this gets more interesting.

Tomorrow will push LH lever back and close door and see if it locks itself upon closing.

[Ed Saniewski]

Don't forget to roll the window down first.

[pooch]

Ed, I don't have side window glass yet... tthey want too much damn money here to cut them.

I moved LH lever back and closed door and it stayed locked from outside.

Would be a bit of a drama with USA cars if one was to do that with both doors.

Seems what I have is the best scenario for locking for safety.

I cannot inadvertently move the RH lever and close door and be shut out.