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Old 09-22-2018, 02:11 AM   #1
runewilliam_merc
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Default Master sylinder for 1952 Mercury

Hi!

I have a 1952 Mercury Custom.
To upgrade safety, I would like a dual bowl(?) master cylinder.

I have searched the web as good as I can, but haven't been able to find one.

The bore is 1".

Anyone have any idea?

(Please ignore my bad English, I'm from Norway)

Rune
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Old 09-22-2018, 03:39 AM   #2
Mart
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Default Re: Master sylinder for 1952 Mercury

Personally I'd just fit a new stock type, but if you want a 1" dual, a 67 Mustang is a dual with a 1" bore. Rockauto have Merc or Mustang cylinders and from my experience are good for international shipping.

The brake pipe fittings require one with a 1/2"-20 thread and one with a 9/16"-18 thread. You might need external residual valves.

Mart.
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Old 09-22-2018, 06:51 AM   #3
51 MERC-CT
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Default Re: Master sylinder for 1952 Mercury

Just about any mid 1960's vehicle (Ford or GM ) with DRUM/DRUM dual master cylinders can be adapted.
They generally have residual valves built in.
This is one example---

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NMAM39495

Or this-----

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NMAM2056
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Last edited by 51 MERC-CT; 09-22-2018 at 07:05 AM.
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Old 09-22-2018, 09:44 AM   #4
Robz51
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Default Re: Master sylinder for 1952 Mercury

I put discs on y 52 merc but before I did that I bought a 67 mustang master cylinder (for drum brakes) and was going to adapt that as it bolts into the existing holes. You can use the Speedway catalog to find parts adapt the actuating rod. Never used it and still have it if you're interested.
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Old 09-22-2018, 10:17 AM   #5
RalphG
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Default Re: Master sylinder for 1952 Mercury

I've seen videos on youtube on updating an older car to newer style dual circuit master cylinder. I just went with a new original style for my 52 from Napa.
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Old 09-22-2018, 10:29 AM   #6
40 Deluxe
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Default Re: Master sylinder for 1952 Mercury

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Just bolting on a dual master cylinder will not automatically give you the safety factor. You have to make sure there is enough pedal travel to engage the secondary piston in event of failure. This only happens near the bottom of pedal travel. if the pedal hits the floor too soon, you will not have any brakes if front or rear springs a leak.
After you have it installed and bled, open a rear bleeder screw and see if the car will stop with the front brakes (in a safe place). Then repeat with a front bleeder open.
I suspect that at least some of these conversions have never been tested and will result in total loss of braking in event of a blown hose.
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