Runs for 20 minutes then dies

[freddybush]

Need hop 55 crown 292 2 bb runs great for 20 minutes then dies no starving for gas just dies then will start next then the sme

[1ton]

Condenser/coil heating up?

[Daves55Sedan]

Could be condenser heating up. Could also be that carb float level is just a little too high so when engine has run for a while, gas heats up in the bowl, it overflows and floods out the engine.
That can be fixed by adjusting float down a little and adding a phenolic spacer between bottom of carb and intake manifold.

[LD-Ordie]

I'm also for changing out the coil and or condenser. You don't mention if the ignition is stock or not. If you have an aftermarket electronic module, that could also be the issue. When I first bought my 55, it had a Mallory Unilite distributer. The previous owner did not have a separate ground between the engine and frame. Very important with a ignition other than points. I changed the coil, then the module, added a good ground, problem solved.

[Daves55Sedan]

Originally Posted by LD-Ordie

The previous owner did not have a separate ground between the engine and frame.

The factory installed a ground strap from the front engine mount to the back of the front crossmember for the frame ground, and a heavy gage ground wire from the drivers side cylinder head to the firewall for body ground. Now see what happens when you buy a used car that has been butchered and patched back together by somebody that has no business messing with mechanical stuff?

[dmsfrr]

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IF the '55 was converted to 12v there could be an intermittent connection at the ballast resistor, if a resistor wasn't installed the coil may be having a problem.

There is a ground wire inside the distributor. (photo)
If it or the wire from the ign coil to the points has a bad connection the ignition can shut down whenever it wants to.

[50fordcoupeman]

Mine was doing the same thing-coil. I agree with 1-ton. Coil would cool off for a few minutes and then would run fine again.

[Ford56]

I agree, these symptoms seem consistent with a coil problem.

[MplsMike]

Hi Freddy

There is a long post at the y blocks forum that discusses a problem that bears similarity to your problem. The problem was recently diagnosed (that’s discussed at the end of the thread), but there are lots of ideas throughout. Thought this might stimulate some ideas on your end if you haven’t already seen this post.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic140564.aspx

[LD-Ordie]

Well, I personally think this thread on the Y block page is not in line with the current issue here. I would replace the coil and go from there.

[39deluxecp]

is the car still 6 volt system? If has been changed to 12 volts make sure resister or correct coil with internal resister is used. take a test light and connect it to the distributor side of the coil. start it and observe the flashing test lite as the engine dies. no lights, no voltage.

[Gene F]

do the easy stuff first. Replace the condenser, then try it. If that doesn't work, put a couple layers of cardboard under the coil. If it even makes it run longer you are onto something. You can ohm the coil before start up, ad the after. Seems like some coils have condensers too.

[poolplayer1]

I was having the same problem with my 302 engine.I did replace the condenser and coil but still had the same problem. After looking at the points,I noticed that the ground wire that connects from the points base to the dist. base was completely loose.I went ahead and tightened up that ground wire and no more problems after that. Just a thought.

[50fordcoupeman]

Just remember new parts do not guarantee good parts anymore. I went thru 4 new NAPA coils to get one that worked. They said that those were their best ones. AARGH!!!

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by MplsMike

There is a long post at the y blocks forum that discusses a problem that bears similarity to your problem. The problem was recently diagnosed (that’s discussed at the end of the thread) ...

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic140564.aspx

I don't think what he found (valves way out of adjustment) had all that much to do with the stalling other than the engine should run somewhat better. It should have brought the manifold vacuum back to somewhere normal hopefully but he didn't say. He still has a timing problem he has not addressed yet.

The stalling (cut-off) was during a slow down and turn if I remember correctly. You need a score card to follow the thread.

The above is just IMO only.

[scicala]

The Earth must be flat. I think freddybush fell off the edge.


Sal

[KULTULZ]

Just a thought. Using a heat gun (or the old lady's hairdryer) pointing it at the DIST/COIL should show any heat related failures. Of course this is after confirming electrical connections.

This was the method used to find bad IGN MODULES in the DS SYSTEM in the not-so-old days.

[Pregily]

Hello to all! Joining your community My love has the similar problem for now (dies after 30-40 minutes). But hope soon I will fix her and share with you my new pic

[scicala]

Welcome to the Ford Barn Pregily. Hope you get your car fixed soon and share the problem found and pic's of your car.


Sal

[Gene F]

so did we hear what the diagnosis was?

[scicala]

No, just talking to ourselves again. Freddybush has been AWOL since post # 1.


Sal

[ford32tudor]

Condenser too hot