Checking Things Off The List - Overheating 21 Stud

[Low-Blow]

I bought my 36 Tudor about a year ago. The car is mostly original, including the 21 stud flathead with about 47,000 miles. I brought the car home and began to drive it.

First trip was about 5 miles to the local country store. I came out of the store to find the temp gauge pegged and coolant all over the ground. I trailered the car home and realized that the radiator had a leak. So, I pulled the radiator out and sent it out to be repaired. To my knowledge, they rodded out the radiator when they made the repair. I put the radiator back in the car and filled it with 50/50 mix.

Second trip was a little further (maybe 15 miles). Temp gauge nearly pegged, as coolant was coming out of the top of the radiator around the cap. I noticed that the seal on the cap was almost completely deteriorated. I ordered another radiator cap. I added water to the radiator and was ready for the next trip.

The next trip was about 30 miles round trip. The temp gauge nearly pegged, and coolant puked out the radiator. I have read that the fluid will seek its own level, so I did not worry too much about it. After the drive, I did trap the upper radiator hose and could feel what appeared to be the coolant boiling inside. I did want to see how much fluid loss I had, so I began to add water before the next trip. It took almost 2 gallons.

After getting some advice from a fellow barn member, I added some washing detergent to the radiator and drove it for about 20 minutes. I parked the car, drained the radiator, and flushed it until I got clean water coming out. I then decided to just fill the radiator with tap water tower if it was going to overheat again. I did not want to keep spending money on 50/50 until I can get the overheating issue under control. I also decided to change the oil, as I am unsure when the last time it was changed. The oil was extremely thick (almost sludge like) and jet black. I completely drained the pan, and poured a little diesel fuel in to clean out what residue may have been left in the bottom of the pan. I then drained the diesel, and even ran some additional oil through the pan to make sure I got all of the diesel out. I went back with Valvoline 20W-50 with zinc additive.

I drove the car yeasterday for a total of a 100 miles. The temp gauge never pegged, but did run towards the top of the normal range. Yesterday was fairly cool, as well, with the air temperature only being in the high 70s. I did notice some coolant on the ground each time after I drove it. A buddy of mine down the street wanted to check the compression on the engine. We pull all the spark plugs and tested each cylinder. The pressure readings were almost identical across the board; at about 97 psi. I was told that this is good.

This morning I decided to see how much fluid was lost during the course of yesterday’s driving. I added almost a gallon and a half of water to bring it up to where I had it previously. So, I think my next step is to pull the water pumps and have them sent to Skip Haney to be rebuilt. There are no thermostats currently on the engine.

Literally, as I am typing this, the guy that I bought the car from just sent me a text. He said that he found the battery box cover, And wants to send it to me. During the course of texting him, I asked him if he had done anything to the water pumps. He told me that he is moving, and is going through some old stuff. He actually found the box with one of the original water pumps, along with a new one. It seems that he put one new water pump on, but did not replace the other one. He is going to send me both of them.

I hope I am going about this the right way. I want to be able to drive and enjoy the car, without damaging the block.

[JSeery]

Might want to check back with the shop that did the radiator work and see if they just repaired the leak or if it was rodded out. That would require removing the top of the tank so there should be a difference in the price between a repair and repair plus rodding it out.

[cas3]

yup, jseery is right on, fixing a leak is one thing, but removing the top tank to rod the cores out is a much bigger job. hope you can get it resolved and have fun with your new toy !

[Low-Blow]

I just checked the invoice from the radiator shop. Does not mention rodding. The invoice states:

Clean, Vat, Flush with Cleaner x3, Flush, Solder All Leaks Around Header, Reassemble, High Pressure Test, Dry And Paint Radiator.

I am going to wait and install the new water pump that is coming to me to see if that helps. If not, I will pull the radiator and have it rodded.

Did I mention I am going by the original bubble temp gauge in the dash? I’m guessing it would be a good idea to get some mechanical gauges to see how hot it is really getting.

[JSeery]

Yes, for sure! Another option is to check with an IR heat gun.

[36Bill]

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search for -21 stud coolant flush- and go to #7 and #11 to see what I did for just your problem. I took 2 radiators to the shop with no change. Skips pumps don't fix the plugged water channels. They are great when that is done, my truck now runs to cool.

[Brendan]

Originally Posted by Low-Blow

I just checked the invoice from the radiator shop. Does not mention rodding. The invoice states:

Clean, Vat, Flush with Cleaner x3, Flush, Solder All Leaks Around Header, Reassemble, High Pressure Test, Dry And Paint Radiator.

I am going to wait and install the new water pump that is coming to me to see if that helps. If not, I will pull the radiator and have it rodded.

Did I mention I am going by the original bubble temp gauge in the dash? I’m guessing it would be a good idea to get some mechanical gauges to see how hot it is really getting.

yes it would, also a oil pressure gauge.i have a 36 Ford pick up. it will run all day long at 180 on a hot day. it also has a 21 stud motor in it

[Ggmac]

Well I'm glad nothing bad has happened so far . Please make sure you check all the brakes , and hydraulics if applicable . Those you usually don't get a second chance at .

[Talkwrench]

Timing also has an impact. so add to list.

[Tinker]

What does pegged mean as far as temp?



Is there a puddle under the car when parked?

Have you checked for exhaust gasses in the coolant system?



Timing?



As mentioned get a IR reader, cheap tool. Chase it down. Found out what condition your condition is in.

[Low-Blow]

Originally Posted by 36Bill

search for -21 stud coolant flush- and go to #7 and #11 to see what I did for just your problem. I took 2 radiators to the shop with no change. Skips pumps don't fix the plugged water channels. They are great when that is done, my truck now runs to cool.

I drained the system yesterday morning and filled with vinegar. I went out this morning and started it, to let it circulate through for a few minutes. I walked around the back of the car and noticed oil coming from the tail pipe. It has always released a light spray upon start up. It was not really thick oil coming out, but almost like watery oil. Please see the picture below.

I got in the car and revved the engine just a bit, and the exhaust spray appeared to stop. I did also notice a little oil around a few of the spark plugs. When we did the compression check on Saturday, the cylinders where oil was present on the head were ones in which the plugs were not screwed in as tight as the others. Again, compression checked out good on all cylinders.

[marko39]

the water is normal for an engine (coming out exhaust pipe) until engine reaches operating temp. the black may be from an over rich condition. how do plugs look? i once sprayed that black mess on my garage wall from a sticking choke on my modern 82 chevy truck. Mark

[Low-Blow]

The plugs looked fine. Again, a few of them were wet, but not around where it fires. They were wet more around the thread area.

[Tinker]

So what is pegged temp? If I can ask a stupid question?











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[Low-Blow]

Originally Posted by Tinker

So what is pegged temp? If I can ask a stupid question?
.

You can ask a stupid question if I can give a stupid answer. Haha! I don’t know what the actual temperature is. I am going by the original bubble gauge and it is completely red. Saturday, however, the bubble remained in the normal range (but near the high end) while driving. Then when the engine is shut down, the gauge goes all the way to the top. I need to get a temp gun and/or mechanical gauges.

[Tinker]

Sounds like maybe your gauge is working well. Never bad to double check it.


Not to sound like a broken record, removing the heads and roddin' out the block really helps to cool a block. After all they were cast over 70 yrs ago.



Looks like you are gaining ground. A accurate oil pressure gauge is a must, as mentioned. Thanks for posting.






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[Low-Blow]

I am trying to buy some time until my 8BA is completed. I do not want to ruin the block by running it too hot. But, I do not want to take time to tear into this engine as I will not be using it in the car much longer. This, I am trying some of these other things such as vinegar in the radiator and by replacing the one water pump that was not replaced.

[Tinker]

If you are building a block, then ya keep it cool for resale or other. Could be timing too. But you have plans for a 8ba so getting familiar with this block and system might be lost.


On the radiator you might want to consider a walker, recore, or other. Clean block, clean rad. It's a system.


Best of luck!




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[Low-Blow]

Thanks! Yes, I am keeping the original engine and transmission to sell with the car; when that time comes. So, I definitely do not want to crack the block.

[Tinker]

Sounds like a plan.