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Old 02-22-2012, 04:46 AM   #21
BILL WILLIAMSON
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Hood hinge rod removal with an electric drill works well. Lube up the hinge with your favorite penetrating oil let sit overnight. Tap the rod out an inch or so, attach the drill to it. Once you get it spin just put some pressure on it and it will pull out.
I use wood dowels for hinge pins, plenty strong.
I dab the ends with Magic Marker, soak them in linseed oil and NO MORE RUST OR CREEKING Cheap too. Bill W.
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Old 02-22-2012, 10:21 AM   #22
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if converting a 6v to a 12v car, you can use the old, not-used-any-more 6v coil as a voltage reducer for the horn.. hook 12v to the + and 6v comes out the - side of the coil. You will never use the horn enough to heat the coil up, and the coil tucks neatly in the frame rail. I do however squeeze a plug of silicone into the hi power part of the coil so I do not have the chance of sparking something I do not want to spark.

Also, regardless of 6 or 12v systems, I mount a modern condensor on the firewall by the coil, as I have a heater manifold, and cannot have an original condensor in the distributor, as they require me to nearly pull off the manifold if I have to change it. the modern condensor under the cap is fine, but I have lost a few due to summer heat on the distributor (I believe).. Never had an issue with the firewall mounted ones yet, going on 4 years of touring.
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Old 02-22-2012, 10:24 AM   #23
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Also, NAPA sells header wrap, which I have usde to good success on the exhaust manifold/pipe to really reduce the amount of heat soak on the passenger side of the firewall and also (I believe) keeps a lot of heat from radiating to the carb. I start at the top, wrapping the base of the exhaust manifild and continue down the pipe, around the bend and stopping at the beginningof the muffler.. 2 hose clamps on either end and it's secure.. The Missus has noticed quite a drop in temperature on the passenger side floorboards, which keeps her content.
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Old 02-22-2012, 07:11 PM   #24
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Ive found that a 12 volt coil w/a built-in resistor works just fine to replace the coil on a 6 volt system.Ive been using one for years on my coupe.
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Old 02-22-2012, 08:55 PM   #25
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Ive found that a 12 volt coil w/a built-in resistor works just fine to replace the coil on a 6 volt system.Ive been using one for years on my coupe.
Velly intelesting, didn't know that!! THANKS! Are they marked as having built in resistor?? Bill W.
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Old 02-23-2012, 11:11 AM   #26
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A piece of vacuum line w/nylon strands in it will get you home if your coil wire goes bad. I also will use a piece of vacuum line, w/o nylon in it, and replace the coil wire w/it, for use as a theft deterent.
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Old 02-23-2012, 01:20 PM   #27
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Old cars are nice and a fun thing, but not as cool as young children and grandchildren.
My convertible car has white interior and anyone of my GC are welcome to jump right up in the seats if they want to.
My other car is a DeSoto.
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Old 02-23-2012, 02:01 PM   #28
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Hey oljoe..are ya sure that wuz water ??? in yer avitar it shur looks like a kick-a-poo joy juice machine ta me!!
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Old 02-23-2012, 02:33 PM   #29
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Old socks fit well over jack tops and plates. Use a colered pair to ID jack pairs. ALso an old sock over the oil filler tube cuts down on any oil blowby mess.
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Old 02-23-2012, 02:49 PM   #30
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[QUOTE=400A-64;371256]Hey oljoe..are ya sure that wuz water ??? in yer avitar it shur looks like a kick-a-poo joy juice machine ta me!!
Brooze[/QUOTE
Chief knew all the fine points of running one of those "GIZMOS," waaaaaaay down in the woods. When asked why he didn't drink, Chief replied, "I know how this crap is made, I even found a dead RAT in the mash once, he had a "smile" on his face!!" Bill W.
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Old 02-28-2012, 05:15 AM   #31
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Feel your radiator, if it's just as hot at the bottom as at the top, your water is flowing too fast for the radiator to dissipate the heat. Add a thermostat to control the flow. They do also work O.K. in the upper end of the upper hose. Drop a large head nail in the overflow tube to prevent splash over also.
Remember this, the block is a water heater, the radiator is a water cooler and a thermostat IS needed to coordinate the two. It works for me, even at 112 degrees here! Bill W.
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Old 02-28-2012, 11:02 AM   #32
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Bill, the 12 v coil will have markings on the outside of the case saying, INTERNALLY RESISTED
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Old 02-28-2012, 01:01 PM   #33
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Since many cam timing gears do not have much of a timing mark divot, I sharpen a piece of rod to a dull point and use that for finding the timing location instead of the round ended timing pin.
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Old 02-28-2012, 05:00 PM   #34
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Bill, the 12 v coil will have markings on the outside of the case saying, INTERNALLY RESISTED
RESISTED, Is that anything like when I went to bed, full of CHILI & GREEN ONIONS?? Bill W.
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Old 02-28-2012, 05:07 PM   #35
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LOL no Bill, thats when you go to bed with the woman you married, once the papers are signed you are resisted in bed, LOL
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Old 02-28-2012, 05:23 PM   #36
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When 12 volts first came out I was just a kid with no money. I had 6 volt Chev that had a hoped up 261 truck engine. The starter did not want to turn it fast enough to start when hot. Maybe because it had 1/8 milled off the head. A new 12 volt generator was about a 100 dollars at the time. Which was a lot of money. So to beat the cost I went to the junk yard and got two old Ford solenoids . Wired them to two 6 volt battery's. When you started the car it would switch the car to 12 volts for starting when you let off the starter button it would switch back to 6 volts.
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Old 02-28-2012, 06:27 PM   #37
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Instead of the timing pin for a Model A, use a short Phillips screw driver. And if you are replacing the timing gear, you might drill out the dent a bit better.
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Old 02-28-2012, 08:13 PM   #38
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Don't gots enuff smarts to touch this thread.
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Old 02-28-2012, 10:26 PM   #39
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When you are changing the timing gear, put some white paint on the
"0" on the steel gear. That is a great help as you slide the firber gear into the correct location. Because the teeth are angled, it is very easy to set the timing gear one tooth off.
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Old 02-28-2012, 10:28 PM   #40
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When your are fooling around trying to see the block number, take a fat piece of chalk and fill the number indentations. Wipeoff and the chalk will make the numbers much easier to read.
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