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Old 01-01-2012, 03:57 PM   #21
columbiA
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Default Re: amp gAGE question

I think a properly rebuilt 6 v gen & dist are very reliable & close to 5 million A,s ran just fine with them.So many*improvements*are really not that at all.But I feel that an OD is really essential if you like to do a lot of driving on main hiways.
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:16 PM   #22
jerry shook
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Still dont have problem solved. Have added a nother ground from battery to frame, already had one from the battery to trans. The electronic ing i have is a transpark universal by nu-rex. I emailed nu-rex for instruction, mabe some one has instruction they could post,
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Old 01-03-2012, 10:07 AM   #23
steve s
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Default Re: amp gAGE question

Jerry,
Is this what your ignition unit looks like? If so, I've got the instructions, and the earlier posted diagram applies.



steve

Last edited by steve s; 01-03-2012 at 10:39 AM.
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Old 01-03-2012, 12:51 PM   #24
jerry shook
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Steve. My box that goes inside is made different and has 6 wires . A red and black smooth comes from the side and 4 wires on the end two are braided and two are smooth. Bob at nu rex is sending instructions. Thanks jerry . I will let you know when i find the problem.
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Old 01-03-2012, 02:40 PM   #25
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Default Re: amp gAGE question

If you are running an original car, keep it original. If you update to an altenator why are you running an amp meter. Get a volt meter from Snyders that fits in the original hole, has a installed light, and when you turn on the key you know whats happening. Also I hope you know that the altenator needs to be excited to work. (speed up the engine). And the volt meter is a lot safer then the amp meter. (setting next to the gas tank) Iceman
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Old 01-03-2012, 03:12 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Parker Toronto View Post
Every wonder why late model cars do not run an amp gauge, but a volt gauge instead?
While off topic, yes I do wonder, anyone know why?
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Old 01-03-2012, 09:51 PM   #27
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Default Re: amp gAGE question

Jerry-- The output wire from alt has to be installed on LH stud of terminal box or ammeter will be bypassed.
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Old 01-05-2012, 12:18 PM   #28
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Been thinking about what i might have done to cause this problem, the amp gage was working with the 30 amp alternator and the 20-20 amp gauge, when i changed to the 70 amp alt and 30-30 amp gage,the amp gage will not work . I have not changed or touched any wires on the instrument panel or the junction box on the firewall. I did replace the light switch on the end of the steering box, all lights horn work fine. And the wire from the start switch to the starter, i just dont understand .
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Old 01-05-2012, 12:28 PM   #29
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Default Re: amp gAGE question

What wire from the start switch to the starter? Do you have a solenoid instead
of the original starter switch?

Bob
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Old 01-05-2012, 02:33 PM   #30
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What wire from the start switch to the starter? Do you have a solenoid instead
of the original starter switch?

Bob
Jerry,

PLEASE tell us about this wire. Since there is no wire between the starter and the starter switch mounted on the starter, I assumed earlier that by "starter switch" you really meant the ignition switch, in which case you have wired around the ammeter and that's why it doesn't register. But, Bob has thought of another possibility that brings up new options, including for the not-cranking problem.

Steve
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Old 01-05-2012, 06:31 PM   #31
jerry shook
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The wire is a direct line from the ign switch to the starter. I have one on another a and every thing works fine. I do not have a solenoid. And i have romoved the wire and the amp gage still dont work. I have checked all the wiring and it is like the other a,s i have. Thanks for all your help
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Old 01-05-2012, 06:52 PM   #32
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Default Re: amp gAGE question

Jerry, I think Steve and I both think you have bypassed the ammeter some how. If you would remove the wires from the ammeter and leave them disconnected while you try the lights and let us know if they still work, this would help in diagnosing the problem.

Bob
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:26 PM   #33
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Jerry, I think Steve and I both think you have bypassed the ammeter some how. If you would remove the wires from the ammeter and leave them disconnected while you try the lights and let us know if they still work, this would help in diagnosing the problem.

Bob
Yes! and will the car start?

I have faith that not everything else is really the same between your two cars.

Can you confirm that the two wires from the ammeter go to two different junction box lugs?

Looking at the wiring diagram in my first reply in this thread, which junction box lug does your black coil wire go to?

Steve
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Old 01-05-2012, 10:12 PM   #34
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Default Re: amp gAGE question

Remember that wire from RH junction box to coil on 28s dont show discharge on ammeter when points are closed Thats why wire was moved to LH post on box.
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Old 01-06-2012, 05:49 AM   #35
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Bob. When one or both wires are disconnected from the amp gage, the lights and horn still work. The wire from the alt goes to the driver side junction box, the wire from the starter, origional harness goes to the passanger side .
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Old 01-06-2012, 05:56 AM   #36
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Bob. To continue after i touch the enter button. Remember this car has electronic ign, nu-rex is sending me instructions for it. Thanks
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Old 01-06-2012, 10:52 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by jerry shook View Post
Bob. When one or both wires are disconnected from the amp gage, the lights and horn still work. The wire from the alt goes to the driver side junction box, the wire from the starter, origional harness goes to the passanger side .
Jerry,
That clinches it; the ammeter is wired wrong; it is not in the loop.

Get into your junction box and fix it as follows:

To one of the lugs you want ONLY two wires attached: the one from the starter and one to the ammeter.

To the other lug you want everything else: the wire to the coil (and from there to the ignition switch/points); the wire to the alternator (and from there to the horn and light switch); the other wire to the ammeter; other stuff as desired--wiper motor, possibly the dash light, other accessories.

There should be no other hot wire from the starter to anywhere! (other than the big cable to the battery, of course)

Do this and I promise you your ammeter will work.

Steve

Last edited by steve s; 01-06-2012 at 11:56 AM.
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Old 01-06-2012, 02:21 PM   #38
jerry shook
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Steve. Let me tell you how the car is wired with the electronic ing. The electronic box on the fire wall has six wires. A red and black smooth wire is going to the dist. The red and black braided wire goes to the coil red to positive , and black to minis side . Yellow smooth wire goes to the ground on the fire wall. Black smooth wire goes to the right side of the ing switch. The yellow with black tracer wire goes from the ing switch to the driver side stud on the fire wall box. The yellow with blue tracer goes from the amp gage to the driver side stud on the firewall. Solid yellow wire goes from the amp gage to the passenger side stud on fire wall. Signal light wire goes to the passenger side stud on fire wall. Under hood the yellow with blue tracer wire goes from the alternator to the driver side stud on fire wall . The solid yellow wire from the starter goes to the passenger side fire wall stud. Thanks jerry
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Old 01-06-2012, 02:55 PM   #39
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Steve. I removed all wires like you said and put the one from the starter and the one from the amp on one stud. Still the same every thing works cranks and runs , the amp still does not work. I also noticed every thing works even with the fuse on the starter out, there should only be fire to the starter with the fuse removed.
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Old 01-06-2012, 02:58 PM   #40
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I assume the lights and horn are hooked to the alternator?

Bob
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