creating patina

[32forddump]

I have a 1928 roadster body that needs a little welding. How go I weld in the patches and keep the patina of the car?

[burner31]

Patina is a time consuming task.

[Charlie Stephens]

Check the archives at HAMB. There is a lot of bad mouthing of it but I remember some useful information showing up. I need to do some fender work that needs to be painted "patina" to match the rest of the car.

Charlie Stephens

[Tinker]

Show some pictures if you will. Anything is possible, limited to paint skill and metal ability. And the level of what needs to be feathered in...

[glenn in camino]

Match the colors of the car in exterior latex paint and use a natural sponge to apply. I use this method once on my 31 AA flat bead. It worked great.

[Tom Wesenberg]

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There is a survivor pickup in our club with new running boards which are painted to match the paint and light rust on the rest of the truck. I swore they were the original running boards until I was told different. There are talented painters that can do patina.

[32forddump]

I will take some pictures today. I will match the paint with exterior latex and give it a try. If I remember correctly there is more rust than paint.

[Barry B./ Ma.]

Weld in the panels, smooth them out and wash them with vinegar and leave it outside for a few weeks then maybe some Rustoleum rusty metal primer to cover the patches.

[Mitch//pa]

after fixing everything up drive it through a muddy field

[32forddump]

walts 72 plus 264.jpg

walts 72 plus 267.jpg

walts 72 plus 268.jpg

walts 72 plus 269.jpg

walts 72 plus 271.jpg

walts 72 plus 274.jpgHere is what I'm starting to build. Im not sure there is any patina but I also don't want another shiny car.

[1crosscut]

Paint patina I can't help you with. Rust now that I think I can help you with if you are patient and stick with it.

On my 29 AA I found a left rear replacement fender that was new old stock. Looked like a brand new fender when I stripped the paint off of it. It took me dang near a year to get it to rust up to match the rest of my truck. To date not one person has yet to notice that the fender was not on the truck for the past 85 years.

On your new welds you will need to give them a bit of texture after you grind / sand them smooth. Try using a sharpened metal punch and hammer to gently put some dimples and pits in. Be creative, maybe some really course sand paper laid on face down on top of the weld and then stuck with a hammer. You get the idea. Once you get a little bit of texture on the metal it will help the rust take hold.
On my fender I started off with the large course granulated Kosher salt. I got the metal wet and then sprinkled the salt on letting it stick. The idea wasn't to totally cover it in a layer of salt but to allow the large granules to stay in one spot for a long time to get a bite into the surface. Then I mixed a salt brine mixture in a quart spray bottle and would mist the fender once or twice a day or when ever I happened to walk by it. I did this for a few weeks. After that I took the fender and buried it in my kids sand box and kept the sand moist for an additional few weeks. By this time I had a pretty nice texture to the metal and all I needed to do was rust it to the degree I wanted. I kept the fender sitting outside my shop door and pretty much every time I went by it I would fill up a large cup of water out of the water spigot by the door and give it a splash of water. Once in a while I would mist it with the saltwater brine. The key to getting something to rust in not to keep it wet all the time but to get it wet and then to let it dry. Metal needs oxygen to rust.
You can try the vinegar, beach, hydrogen peroxide treatments. Just do a google search. They do rust metal quickly but only a thing surface layer that tends to be a rather sickly orange / yellow color.
Best of luck on your project.

[32forddump]

Thanks, I was wondering if molasses would speed up the process. I use molasses and water to remove rust, but when I remove the parts from the tank and after I pressure washed them if I did not paint them soon the parts would rust real quick.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Continualy application of a wet slush of salt, water & fine metal grindings works quite well. The NEXT owner of the car will probably CUSS you PROFUSELY +*#%^&@&$*&%&---------------------
Bill W.

[califfarmer]

Nothing rust metal faster on the ranch than fertilizer. Get some granular fertilizer and wet it on the steel rust very fast.

[32forddump]

wow, those are some great ideas, I will let you know how I make out

[J Witt]

I need to get this one rusted up pretty quick in time for the next car show. Good suggestions.

IMAG0473 (887 x 502).jpg

[ronn]

I use semi gloss oil in brown-let the pigment drop to the bottom, dont stir it, and use the upper portion of the can......................

looks real rusty and seals as well.

[ronn]

ed paint DIY

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1. 09-20-2009, 09:20 AM #1
   
   faux patina, faux rust, aged paint DIY
   
   

   I know some tricks for faux rust, oxdation and faux peeling...
   
   
   pick the color you want to paint it... we'll use a minty sixties green for example...
   
   ----
   
   do your bodywork, and 2k primer.. then sand out to 600 as if you were painting a regular paintjob... (a straight car will look better with this than a banged up one, because the sanding won't give away how it was faked....)
   
   now we're ready to go..
   
   ---
   
   Faux rust bubbles-
   
   put some unreduced red brown primer in a squirt bottle.. tint it with some black to get a nice dark brown
   
   figure out where your rust bubbles should be...
   
   around the lower window, cowl, door bottoms, wherever...
   
   squirt it on in clumpy areas, and let dry overnight..
   
   these will show once everything is done...
   
   ---
   
   Faux oxidation, and fading
   
   if you want a real vintage look, you'll need red brown primer.. this was the standard back in the day..
   
   so either base the whole car in red brown primer, or a basecoat that is the same color. base until you acheive coverage of the grey primer..
   
   --
   now to move onto the "unfaded" lower layer of paint.
   
   this will be your minty green.. base away, and acheive coverage of the brown..
   
   --
   now you'll need the "faded" top layer..
   
   take the mint green. and add some white to it..
   
   not too much.. just enough to make it look distressed by the sun
   
   now acheive coverage with the lighter color.
   
   
   ----
   
   alright..
   
   let it dry up overnight, and then it's time to wetsand..
   
   use a soft block behind your paper, not your fingers... this will avoid finger marks that give away that it's not real.. (a drip of car wash soap in your bucket will help cut, and stop the paper from clogging, too)
   
   stand back, and identify the areas that would receive the most sunlight (hood, tops of fenders, roof) and wear from use(door pillars, lower areas of windows, around handles)
   
   now it's time to remove some paint in these areas, but in a manner that looks natural.
   
   start wet sanding the tops of the panels with 400 and then 600 then 800 then 1000, but make sure not to break past the red brown primer layer.. exposing the 2k primer will absorb water, and lead to rust... plus give away that it's fake..
   
   once you're past 600 greit you can lose the block...
   
   the higher grit you sand, the less you'll be able to see the sanding scratches...
   
   --
   
   
   now removing the layers gradually makes it appear that the sun has beat this paint down, faded the top layer, the lower layer is still holding it's color some, and the red brown primer is finally breaking thru...
   
   if you want a really crusty ride, just use red brown primer instead of 2k, then sand all the way to bare metal..
   
   it will rust, and be crappy (I 'm a bodyman and painter, so I don't think this is cool at all) but if you like it, then go ahead.
   
   ---
   
   sanding thru the worn areas around the handles and windows adds a great history to the vehicle.
   
   and breaking thru the quirted on faux rust bubbles, gives a realistic problem area, without the troubles of actual rust, leaking, and structural issues
   
   ----
   
   
   Option 2
   
   the most basic way to do this faux patina is the reverse of what I just described..
   
   paint your car flat black, mist on some red in a few spots, then wet sand that down..
   
   it will appear that the black is wearing away, and revealing a red underneath, when the opposite is true...

   
   

   Last edited by biGshiz79; 09-20-2009 at 09:24 AM.

[32forddump]

wow, I am impressed. Thank you for all the information. I am really hopeful that I can pull this off.