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08-22-2018, 11:40 AM | #21 |
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Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: SoCal
Posts: 877
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Re: Curing The Black Ooze
Looking at the top of the cylinders on #2 and #3, looks like discoloration. My past experience with engines that had black oil coming out, whether it was black on the outside or in the oil pan, was from lack of water and extreme heat. No matter what oil, synthetic or regular will not take a hot spot from lack of water in a cooling system. Just curious, do you have a water temp gauge and what does the oil in the crankcase look like? If you have doubts, take a sample of your oil and have it analyzed. They can tell you a lot of things your oil has gone through from heat and content of metals. Also if you do have a water temp gauge, they will very seldom show what your temperature is unless submerged in water. Also cylinder heads develop small cracks from excessive heat. look at brake drums and rotors that have been through excessive heat and notice all the cracks and hot spots. Never pour cold water in an overheated or hot engine. I've seen people do that and ruined their engine.
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08-22-2018, 06:22 PM | #22 |
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 128
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Re: Curing The Black Ooze
use of synthetic for vintage break-in guarantees rings will take forever to seat
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08-23-2018, 03:09 PM | #23 |
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Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Sunrise Beach, Mo
Posts: 439
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Re: Curing The Black Ooze
Quote:
Last edited by DHZIEMAN; 08-23-2018 at 03:14 PM. Reason: Delete |
08-24-2018, 08:55 PM | #24 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Asheville,NC
Posts: 3,104
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Re: Curing The Black Ooze
You can keep on wishing the head and block are flat but, in my opinion, something is warped and needs to be machined flat. The areas you show where #2 and #3 are leaking to the outside of the engine is where I find most blocks to be warped. Remember, .003 is enough to cause problems and gasket failures.
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