Glutton for punishment

[whirnot]

One of the things I like the most about Models A's is the fact that a lot of times instead of buying a new part, you can fix or refurbish the old.

But I think I took this challenge a little too far. Originally my plate had been folded in half and nailed to the wall, it had nine nail holes in it.

I could have bought one in good condition for $50 but where is the fun in that?

The sun on the red floor makes it look red but it is maroon.

[eagle]

Sometimes the challenge is the reason! Looks Great!

[Tom Wesenberg]

Super, and more than I'd have taken on.

[Craig Lewis]

How did you get the lettering so nice?

I found a 31 Idaho plate folded the other way from yours and about as rough looking... hammered it sorta straight and welded a torn screw hole. I tried several lettering methods including roller (bad), sponge brush (worse), and finally just did my best with a lettering brush
...looks OK from 20 feet

[Mike V. Florida]

Way to go!!

[Russ/40]

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Amazing metal work. How did you ever get the crease out of it.

[RUNNERBUN]

You don't fool me. I know that the nice one is the before photograph and the rough one is the after photograph. (After you bashed the living daylights out of it) Seriously that's very nice work, congratulations.

[Phil]

Nice job!

[amdriven2liv]

Looks great!

[Sparky]

Originally Posted by Craig Lewis

How did you get the lettering so nice?

I found a 31 Idaho plate folded the other way from yours and about as rough looking... hammered it sorta straight and welded a torn screw hole. I tried several lettering methods including roller (bad), sponge brush (worse), and finally just did my best with a lettering brush
...looks OK from 20 feet

Don't mean to hijack the thread, but here is my first ever restoration. After stripping the old finish and banging out the dents I sprayed a heavy black base coat, followed by a white over coat. Then I used 320 grit paper and wet sanded the raised letters to reveal the black. I needed to touch up a few spots with a brush and black acrylic. A final coat of clear gloss sealed the lettering.

I'm working on a second one now, I think I can do better. One mistake I made on the first one was using a propane torch to remove the old paint. The paint came off fine but the heat warped the plate a bit.

[whirnot]

Because it is thin metal, it bends without stretching, so I just made a few punches out of different size keystock and slowly worked it back to flat alternating both sides.

In large areas, I layed the punch flat to cover more area. I then brazed the holes shut.

I initially used a filler primer, but it built too fast so I ended of wire brushing it all off again.

I then used regular primer, and spray painted the background color. Then as anyone knows the lettering is the tough part. I tried rollers, rubber rollers, pads etc, and nothing worked. Then I said screw it and got out the brush, discovering some secrets along the way.

First, only do a letter or two at a sitting, so you can use both hands, bracing one with the other, hands on top of a finished letter if necessary.

I found it easiest to lay the plate so that the brush stroke was across from right to left. (personal preference). Thin paint about 40% so it flows and lays down nicely., but still will cover with one coat. I just used a piece of glass as a blending plate.

Keep moving and be aggresive, it makes the straightest lines. Make sure you go all the way to the edge and be less concerned if you go over. Afterwards you can swipe the edge with a folded paper towel, dipped in thinner, and because your finger is following the radiused edge it leaves a perfect line.

The small lettering kept me up at night until Shazam! Sharpie paint pen! the small lettering was cake to do and took like 2 minutes. The border was done the same way, and you can hold the pen so that one of your fingers follows the edge, laying down a perfect line. Since we are relocating in a couple of years I have my next plate as well, I will try to get some lettering shots when I do it.

This can be done by anyone with a little patience, I have very poor handwriting due to poor hand eye coordination. but you just relax, and know that you can instantly reverse anything with a rag and a little thinner.

[whirnot]

Originally Posted by Sparky

Don't mean to hijack the thread, but here is my first ever restoration. After stripping the old finish and banging out the dents I sprayed a heavy black base coat, followed by a white over coat. Then I used 320 grit paper and wet sanded the raised letters to reveal the black. I needed to touch up a few spots with a brush and black acrylic. A final coat of clear gloss sealed the lettering.

I'm working on a second one now, I think I can do better. One mistake I made on the first one was using a propane torch to remove the old paint. The paint came off fine but the heat warped the plate a bit.

Looks great! I have also heard of baking the letter color then overcoating, and not too long after wiping the color off the letters with thinner. Because this one was so hammered, I was afraid that I couldn't get clean edges.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Does anyone know how license plates were originally painted during the manufacturing process?

[Henry/Kokomo]

As I understand it, many were 1) stamped 2)background color painted 3) raised areas painted with a roller after the base coat dried. Don't know if there was a standard method or if it varied prison to prison. FWIW

[Jazzjr]

Most Plates had the Background color applied, then the Raised Lettering or Numbers was Silk Screened on.

How I did mine, was to Spray on the Lettering color, then Sprayed with Clear Coat a couple of times. Then Sprayed on the Back Ground Color, while Tacky, I used a piece of Rag, wound tightly around my index finger, just Dampened with Enamel Thinner, to remove the Paint from the Raised Letting.
After I Clear coated again. I used Krylon Enamel Rattle cans.

[fordcoupe]

Nice! i have a set i have to do i only hope they come out so well you get a gold star for a great job.

[TinCup]

There is a video out there showing using a roller to paint the numbers on a solid background plate.

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Does anyone know how license plates were originally painted during the manufacturing process?

[whirnot]

Here's how it used to be done, but getting the right roller and paint consistancy is about impossible.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by whirnot

Here's how it used to be done, but getting the right roller and paint consistancy is about impossible.

That's exactly how I figured it must have been done. I couldn't think of any quicker or easier way. Makes me wish I had picked up some of those hard rubber rollers I saw at the recycling yard about 8 years ago.

[Sparky]

Originally Posted by whirnot

Here's how it used to be done, but getting the right roller and paint consistancy is about impossible.

I suppose if you you've got nothing to do but make license plates all day you're bound to get good at it!