L100 for Blower motor?

[jrvariel48]

How would the L100 cam stack up against the Max1 or 400jr. for a mild blown motor?

[Blownflatheaddeuce]

It worked GREAT in mine

Sounded very nice and ran very well/pulled hard with about 4-5lbs boost.

BFD

[4tford]

I have one of the Kiwi L-100 blower cams going in a 276 with a Paxton blower.

[jrvariel48]

Originally Posted by 4tford

I have one of the Kiwi L-100 blower cams going in a 276 with a Paxton blower.

Is the blower cam the same as the L 100 or is it a different grind?

[4tford]

special blower grind

[Bored&Stroked]

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I think it would work just great - you're not talking about a super-high end race motor and any good cam will let the blower move more air into the cylinders. Also, the blower will deliver a lot more low end power (if it generates boost at lower RPM - some don't).

[jrvariel48]

Are these cams available?

[quickchange34]

You want a cam that won't strangle the inlet with short duration or blow the boost out of the exhaust with long duration and big overlap. You want a cam with lobe centers around 110 to 112. In general the cam should have relatively short duration with wide lobe centers.

[Tim Ayers]

You may want to contact Crower. They make some really good flathead blower flat tappet and roller cams.

[KiWinUS]

Originally Posted by jrvariel48

Are these cams available?

G'Day mate , sorry for the delay in replying , been at the "Moonshine Festival" in Dawsonville Ga. for the weekend . I sell the L100 , I grind in on the exact core you send to me . I do have some 8BA style available outright .
I have a blower version available that is slightly different to the Regular L100 but still very similar .
I need to unload from the weekend , & will pm you tomorrow evening with more details or answers to any questions you may have .
Cheers
Tony

[PeterC]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

You may want to contact Crower. They make some really good flathead blower flat tappet and roller cams.

I called Crower today and spoke with Jerry - been there since 1968 - they custom grind Flathead cams / blower cams on new cores or your old for a regrind - for a street performance but less parking lot babble - suggested a 112 lob seperation, 224 int.exh duration @ .50 and a lift of 330. Can grind whatever you want but suggested above for strong street performance assuming 7 psi boost. He can be reached at 619.661.6477

[quickchange34]

I have used the above can in a new core in a couple of engines and they work great on a blower motor,

[jrvariel48]

Thank you everyone! Lottsa great info as usual!!

[HotRodmicky]

Originally Posted by PeterC

I called Crower today and spoke with Jerry - been there since 1968 - they custom grind Flathead cams / blower cams on new cores or your old for a regrind - for a street performance but less parking lot babble - suggested a 112 lob seperation, 224 int.exh duration @ .50 and a lift of 330. Can grind whatever you want but suggested above for strong street performance assuming 7 psi boost. He can be reached at 619.661.6477

I am kinda surprised why cam the doesnt have more lift....
On a blown engine the mixture is pushed through the ports , so
More lift makes it easier to push the mixture through.

On a unblown engine , lots of lift only makes sense if you ports flow that
Much.

Maybe some guys like JWL ,Ron or Pete can give some info here

[A bones]

Hi Hot Rodmicky, To answer in general terms as I am not an expert, but have read some books on this topic. Blowers when set up properly can bring more power to a tame engine due to the fact that they are an air pump. Low compression ratios, less than huge intake porting, and 'mild cams' all get covered up by boost pressure in the manifold. Rather than opposed to having manifold vacuum to pull in the air from atmospheric pressure, the manifold is filled and ready to blow into the cylinder the moment the valve opens. Not when the piston draws the vacuum. The piston just needs to get out of the way when there is boost in the manifold. I hope this answers your query.

[KiWinUS]

Originally Posted by A bones

Hi Hot Rodmicky, To answer in general terms as I am not an expert, but have read some books on this topic. Blowers when set up properly can bring more power to a tame engine due to the fact that they are an air pump. Low compression ratios, less than huge intake porting, and 'mild cams' all get covered up by boost pressure in the manifold. Rather than opposed to having manifold vacuum to pull in the air from atmospheric pressure, the manifold is filled and ready to blow into the cylinder the moment the valve opens. Not when the piston draws the vacuum. The piston just needs to get out of the way when there is boost in the manifold. I hope this answers your query.

The low lift cams on a flathead is still a restrictor if you are using a Mccullough or Paxton with 4-5lb boost.

[JWL]

What must be realized is the stock port/manifold/valve is just about all done at .350 lift. In fact, you can completely remove the valve and gain almost no flow.

Read my book. It is educational.

[Bored&Stroked]

What all of us should have asked is what is your definition of a 'mild blown street motor' - and what car, what trans, what gearing, etc? What are the specs you're thinking of for the engine?

Bore / Stroke / Cubic Inches
Porting and Relieving - none, or to what level
Valves - sizes
Heads / Chambers / Compression Ratio
Ignition
Blower / Overdrive / Boost
Fuel system - type, number of carbs (if carbs), approximate CFM
Flywheel / Clutch
Tranmission, Gearing

What characteristics are you looking for in the engine? How will you be driving it and what are your overall goals?

I think myself and others 'shot the gun a bit' - we were off the diving board and into the pool without knowing much. My bad!

B&S

[HotRodmicky]

Originally Posted by JWL

What must be realized is the stock port/manifold/valve is just about all done at .350 lift. In fact, you can completely remove the valve and gain almost no flow.

Read my book. It is educational.

Yep , i did read it and know about the 0.350 lift fact.

I would still lift the valve a little more than the port flows in a blown
Application , rather then less.

[jrvariel48]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

What all of us should have asked is what is your definition of a 'mild blown street motor' - and what car, what trans, what gearing, etc? What are the specs you're thinking of for the engine?

Bore / Stroke / Cubic Inches
Porting and Relieving - none, or to what level
Valves - sizes
Heads / Chambers / Compression Ratio
Ignition
Blower / Overdrive / Boost
Fuel system - type, number of carbs (if carbs), approximate CFM
Flywheel / Clutch
Tranmission, Gearing

What characteristics are you looking for in the engine? How will you be driving it and what are your overall goals?

I think myself and others 'shot the gun a bit' - we were off the diving board and into the pool without knowing much. My bad!

B&S

This motor will be going into my 1935 5 window coupe (avatar).
I'm in the early stages of this, so there's a lot I can't answer for sure.
I've done a lot of reading and researching, but have no experience with a Flathead build. I'm very good at understanding what I'm reading and I'll have no problem bringing it to the workbench. Machining will be left to a competent shop.
Right now, I know for sure that I don't want to build an all out race engine as this car will be used for cruising. I can't see spending a ton of money on a motor that's driven to local cruise nights, etc.

Here's what I have in mind, & please everyone give me your opinions and experiences, every bit will help me decide which way to go.
Again I'm not an experienced engine builder, but very handy.

Bore will be 3 5/16
I have a 4" Merc crank that will be used with stock conrods and Ross forged 3-ring pistons. Crank & rods will be magnafluxed, shot peened, etc. Heavy duty center main cap? Not sure on an align bore yet. Suggestions anyone??
276 ci.
Complete engine balancing.

From what I read about relieving, it's not needed for a street motor. Porting & blending to clean things up will be done.
1.6" Manley street flow valves. Isky single 185G springs

L100-B cam Thanks Kiwinus!

Ignition will be a Mallory Unilite with mechanical advance, set up by Bubba, of course, with an MSD Boost Timing Master

I would like to use iron heads because I like the way stock heads look. I know about the detonation concerns, but from what I'm reading iron heads can be used without problems.
My CR will be determined by chamber size which I don't know right now, but I'm looking to stay on the low side, 7.2:1 and up so I can safely and effectively keep the boost a little higher (6 psi).
The blower is a Camden 9". I don't know if different sized pulley's are available to change drive ratio
I did this calculation based on Joe Abbin's book to get the drive ratio.
14.7 + 5 x 276 = 5437.2 then divide by
14.7 x 1.7 x 144 = 3598.56
Drive ratio is 1.51 for 5 psi & 1.58 for 6 psi.
I measured my top and bottom pulleys and came up with this.
Bottom 7.75" x 3.14 = 24.335
Top 5" x 3.14 = 15.7
24.355 divided by 15.7 = 1.55 This would close to my drive ratio, correct??

The blower came with a Holley 600 cfm carb which I'll be using
I don't know what what size clutch I'll be running probably a 10" with a steel flywheel.
Trans is a 1993 T5 world class. 1st gear is 4.03, 2.37, 1.49, 1.00 & 5th gear is .76
Rear is a Ford 9" with a 3.55 posi.
I'm looking for a reliable street engine that will be driven to local car shows and taking my kids for cruises for a couple of hours here and there.
No drag strip. I don't care for top end speed just a good running motor that looks really cool when the hood is open!

Please remember, I'm not an experienced builder & I'm always open to all suggestions!
My top reads are "Nostalgia" by Ol' Ron, "Flathead Facts" by JWL and "Flathead For V-8" by Joe Abbin
Thank you,
Joe