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08-22-2013, 12:38 PM | #1 |
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Location: Stephentown
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Brake Rod Rattle
I've been chasing a rattle in the Model A and have narrowed it down to the right front brake rod. The rod and the anti rattle clip were shot. So I ordered a new clip and a new rod and installed them but still have a rattle while driving. It's less than before but still there.
Any tips or tricks to get the rattle to stop? |
08-22-2013, 01:29 PM | #2 |
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Re: Brake Rod Rattle
You could try detaching the end with the lock nut, loosen the nut and give the clevis a slight turn (a couple degrees or so), then re-lock it. This will pre-load the pins slightly may help a bit.
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08-22-2013, 04:19 PM | #3 |
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Re: Brake Rod Rattle
I was thinking of coating the road with some teflon tap or something just to stop the rattle.
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08-22-2013, 04:30 PM | #4 |
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Re: Brake Rod Rattle
The problem with coating it with Teflon tape is it would tend to bind. Maybe try some very heavy grease. Not the red high temp stuff like for wheel bearings but the really thick, putty like agricultural stuff.
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08-22-2013, 04:32 PM | #5 |
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Re: Brake Rod Rattle
What type of agricultural grease? I just have regular stuff but I can run to Tractor Supply!
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08-22-2013, 04:39 PM | #6 |
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Re: Brake Rod Rattle
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08-22-2013, 04:43 PM | #7 | |
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Re: Brake Rod Rattle
Quote:
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08-22-2013, 06:02 PM | #8 |
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Re: Brake Rod Rattle
The wheel bearing grease you get these days does not have the fibers in it like it use to have, it's not much more than chassis lube. I bought a can of "Timken" wheel bearing grease a while back and that is all it was, just a little thicker than chassis lube, no fibers.
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08-22-2013, 06:43 PM | #9 |
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Re: Brake Rod Rattle
That's why I said not to get regular wheel bearing grease. The standard Timken is lighter than most too. Just walk around NAPA sticking your finger in all the different greases, I'm sure they won't mind.
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08-22-2013, 06:45 PM | #10 |
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Re: Brake Rod Rattle
Yea they'll love me for that!! Well if you come up with any brands I should pick up let me know!!
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08-22-2013, 07:05 PM | #11 |
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Location: Mpls, MN
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Re: Brake Rod Rattle
Go to your local railroad shop and get some grease for a steam engine. The grease used for the connecting rods and brass bushings on the steam locomotive is like road tar when it's 30* below zero.
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08-23-2013, 02:56 PM | #12 |
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Re: Brake Rod Rattle
"local railroad shop" "steam locomotive"
Love ya Tom Paul |
08-23-2013, 04:18 PM | #13 |
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Re: Brake Rod Rattle
Rainmaker Ron once suggested taking a thin piece of felt about 5-6 inches long: Fold it in half, placing the loop over the rod near the clevis pin, thread both ends under the clevis, through the yoke and back up over the top of the clevis and under the felt loop. Cut off the excess, but leave enough to be sure the knot stays. Oil it to keep the pin oiled and it stops the rattle as well. He posted a photo over on Ahooga, but its long lost unless someone here has it.
I'm curious if the grease works. Let us know. |
08-23-2013, 08:18 PM | #14 |
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Re: Brake Rod Rattle
Yep, I was born too late!
The 261 is housed in Minneapolis and I watched the engine get greased with hoses connected to the steam pipe for pressure to the grease gun. The grease comes in sticks and there is a handful left when they change the stick, so I saved some once. I never found a use for it thought, so I threw it away. |
08-23-2013, 09:18 PM | #15 |
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Re: Brake Rod Rattle
Are you running Houdaille shocks? I had a problem with the RF brake rod rattling against the Houdaille adjuster. If this is the case, you'll see marks in the paint where they hit.
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08-23-2013, 09:49 PM | #16 |
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Re: Brake Rod Rattle
I'm running Bill Stipe shocks, but I'll check and see if I can see if that's the problem.
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08-23-2013, 09:50 PM | #17 |
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Re: Brake Rod Rattle
Sort of in the same line of thought that Pat has I would take a rag and wrap it around the clevis to see if that would stop the rattle. If it does the trick then remove the rag and check to see if your pin through the clevis is worn or the holes in the clevis are worn allowing room for it to rattle. Perhaps loosening the lock nut and turning the clevis ever so slightly to put a side load on it would then take care of it. Or just replace the clevis and pin.
Dave
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