New to the Barn with head questions

[slackcat]

Hello! Cars aren't new to me but my '29 Coupe is. I found I was getting rad. fluid in the oil so I pulled the head and found the PO should have replaced his water neck, horribly pitted and letting fluid down both studs. Engine had rebuild but nuts not torqued enough, compromised head gasket, otherwise runs great.


I plan on getting a new water neck, high compression head (5.5), and related gaskets and studs from Snyders.

Questions:

1. Does Snyders carry long enough studs? I've read of high comp. heads
being thicker than stock.

2. They reccomend B gasket. Does it come in copper?

3. What is the proper torquing procedure and when is it safe to add
water?

4. Anything other particulars should I look for?


Lots of good info on this site, glad I'm here.

[SLPreston53]

I have run their HC heads in two As with their recommended gasket and "stronger" studs with zero problems. The gasket is not copper, and while some disagree I have had no problems with the silicone lined gaskets. The proper torquing procedure is another point of debate (all the way to 55# in one lull or gradually sneaking up on it running through the sequence 3 or 4 times). But the pattern is start in the middle and circle toward the outside. I am sure someone will post an actual diagram of the sequence. You can add water as soon as torqued. I ran my A to get the head good and warm then waited until the next day to re-torque. Then, each time I take the A out, I re-torque the next day when the engine is stone cold until the nuts no longer need to be tightened (4 or 5 times).

[CarlG]

Brace yourself for about a million comments, each with it's own set of instructions.

Here's what Snyders has on their web site as far as the tightening sequence:

[slackcat]

Heh, thanks for the input. I've read this forum for the last several months and just looking for some tips. I know better than to ask what engine oil to use and wether or not to use anti-freeze.

I have a nice driver and just wanting to get it back on the road. If I'm not here I'm on the HAMB.

Later.

[Mike V. Florida]

Welcome to Model A's.

If you follow the recommendations of the vendor you should be OK.

[1930artdeco]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

On my 5.5 I went to 60# with the silicone gasket. No problems so far that I can see.
And welcome to the Barn.

Mike

[Dave in MN]

'B' Head Gasket

Asbestos head gasket for the 32-34 4-cyl. Will also work on the model A. U.S.A.
Part NumberSpecificsPrice B-6051-C1928-34$25.50 / ea.

I rebuild about 24 engines each year and have tried numerous gaskets. Each has had its own problems. I ordered this head gasket from Snyder's about two months ago, tried it on an engine to be run on a dyno and found it to seal very well. It only required two sequences of re-torque to hold full torque of 55#. The silicone gaskets require 5-6 re-torques to hold. I have switched to using this gasket on HC heads from now on.
Good Day!

[slackcat]

I'll make out my list and get my order coming.

It's sure a gas to drive an A, completely different from my other rides. My next goal is finding an A roadster.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by slackcat

I'll make out my list and get my order coming.

It's sure a gas to drive an A, completely different from my other rides. My next goal is finding an A roadster.

Open cars are cool!
Most of the time too cool in Minnesota.

[slackcat]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Open cars are cool!
Most of the time too cool in Minnesota.

I wouldn't let the cold stop me. Then again people think I was born in a barn.

[Jon]

I would suggest that if you are going to add antifreeze to wait and add it after the head is torqued the final time. That way if it does leak you won't get any antifreeze into the babbitt.

[Phil]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Open cars are cool!
Most of the time too cool in Minnesota.

Tom, what is the machine by the building in the background? Looks interesting. Great Pheaton by the way, yours? Phil

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Phil

Tom, what is the machine by the building in the background? Looks interesting. Great Pheaton by the way, yours? Phil

Thanks, that's a vertical steam engine. Hemmings was here doing a photo shoot a couple years ago, and I'm at the Nowthen Threshing show grounds.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by SLPreston53

I have run their HC heads in two As with their recommended gasket and "stronger" studs with zero problems. The gasket is not copper, and while some disagree I have had no problems with the silicone lined gaskets. The proper torquing procedure is another point of debate (all the way to 55# in one lull or gradually sneaking up on it running through the sequence 3 or 4 times). But the pattern is start in the middle and circle toward the outside. I am sure someone will post an actual diagram of the sequence. You can add water as soon as torqued. I ran my A to get the head good and warm then waited until the next day to re-torque. Then, each time I take the A out, I re-torque the next day when the engine is stone cold until the nuts no longer need to be tightened (4 or 5 times).

Slackat, if you're using the silicone lined gasket, this man's procedure is ALL you need to do
IF you use the thick squishy copper gasket, torque it again, immediately after warm up, & the next day, & several times thereafter, until the nuts no longer take ANY tightening. (And, PLEASE, don't back off the nuts when re-torqueing!) Bill W.

[zzlegend]

Does this help?

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by zzlegend

Does this help?

ZZ, Dog here, good clear pic, I culd draw if I had thumbs, & that's a good "RULE of THUMB" for most heads, if you don't have a pic. That's the same as Preston's sequence. Buster T.

[jacksonchuck]

My recent experience with the silicone coated Snyders gaskets on a newly rebuilt and surfaced engine and new 6.0 head is two failures leaving me stranded 250 miles from home. These occurred dispite numerous retorqings both hot and cold. They never seemed to stop needing to be retorqued. Both failed between #2 and #3 to cooling passage thus crapping up the oil with water and coolant with combustion products. The final reliable solution for me was a copper model B gasket (MACs), copper coat sprayed on both sides, 60# torque, and chrome moly studs. It took 3 retorquings to get it stable (all done cold). Checked it last week again after 2500 miles and is still right on the money. I dont doubt the silicone composite gasket would work for some folks but I no longer will use them.

[slackcat]

The parts came in yesterday and thanks for all the advice, I'll be referencing this thread when I reassemble.

[somethingspecial]

slackcat welcome to the ford barn. Nice A by the way

[slackcat]

Have the work done and followed installation to the letter. Haven't had the opportunity to go on any extended drives but can say it has more zip. Next I need to replace the coil wire, found it to be jerry rigged with a rusty screw as a contactor.