1932 ford fuel gauge dissaembly

[jim1932]

I obtained a repair kit for my gauge but need to take the nut off where the pipe comes in from the gas tank. Gentle turning did not work and I am afraid I will snap it off. The gauge is out of the car as the pipe corroded through just above the nut... Can this be heated with out breaking something? The nut and the part it screws onto do not show any corrosion.

[DavidG]

Use two wrenches, one on the nut and the other on the hex tube that the nut is attached to. That way you won't break anything. I would worry about using heat as it might compromise the connection between the glass tube and the fine tubing it is attached to.

[jim1932]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Use two wrenches, one on the nut and the other on the hex tube that the nut is attached to. That way you won't break anything. I would worry about using heat as it might compromise the connection between the glass tube and the fine tubing it is attached to.

I'm using two wrenches. How brittle is this stuff?

[Phil Gillespie]

Suggest you carefully file the side of the nut if difficult to turn.
This way you can split the nut and keep the thread at top of gauge intact.
As repair kit comes with 2 nuts ,tube etc.
Have just done similar on 34 Fuel gauge with success.
Phil
NZ

[DavidG]

Jim,

I've never had one shear (12-15 tries), but there's always a first time. Phil's advice would work if you have the replacement nut.

[jim1932]

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my kit did not come with a nut. I will try getting some pblaster in the top where the corroded off tube is an try a little harder...

[Terry,OH]

If you have a repair kit for the gauge and the line is broken, what do you care just turn the nut until it brakes off or the top of the hex tube brakes or the nut unscrews. You should have another hex tube in the repair kit and the replacement line should have the nut.

[jim1932]

Guess maybe I got the smaller kit. Has the class tube with small copper tube, but not the hex tube or nut. I will try to get ti apart today. Sounds like pieces are available if it gets messed up.

[jim1932]

OK... I am a wimp... it came off OK. I just had visions of it snapping off like a stuck brass part in a Zenith Carb.

[jimTN]

I do not remember what came with a kit but my experience has been to salvage the original ferrels which are cone shaped instead of round. They were saved by working a drill bit thru them. Those original ferrels are the only ones that seem to seal properly.

[jim1932]

OK so at this point I need to get the tube out and save the ferrel (the part the arrow is pointing to? Would carb cleaner or goof off dissolve the old corrosion?

[DavidG]

The answer to your question is yes. Just grab the broken off part of the old line above the ferrule with pliers and work it back and forth; it will come loose as a result.

[jim1932]

Damn that was hard. Got it out. Trick was to run a wire down it. Frankly I pulled and wiggled eight ways to Sunday to no effect. Ran a wire down it thinking I could collapse the tube. Damn thing just about fell out once the wire passed the ferrule.

Ideas for best solvent to get the crud out of the rest? Will vinegar work?

[deuce lover]

I have used acetone to clean the glass tube and line.I've heard that brake cleaner will work but never tried it.It (line) must be totally cleaned so that the acetone -poured in from the fitting in back appears in the glass tube.Then the gauge will work.In cleaning the glass I wrap thin cloth around a thin wire and scrub the inside.I have probably repaired 25-30 of these fuel gauges.

[jim1932]

is this mainly a job of soaking? doesn't seem like I can get too far with wire.

[deuce lover]

Jim, There will be a film on the inside of the glass tube.I tried soaking but its not enough to get the glass clean.The wire with the cloth is only for cleaning of the glass tube.Q tips might work but I think to thick.

[jim1932]

so the brass tube will eventualy soak clean?

[DavidG]

Jim,

I use metal prep (phosphoric acid) to clean both the brass tube and the glass (in the latter case with a pipe cleaner). You may find that you have to let the acid sit in the hexagon shaped brass tube for a couple of days for it free up that tube and the thin tubing between it and the glass tube. You will likely find one or more copper calibrating rods in the hex tube. Your cleaning job will go quicker if you remove them early on.

[jim1932]

Yeah I see a copper piece in it but can't get it out. I will pick up some metal prep.

[jim1932]

Is this the measuring thing you are talking about? How the heck do you get it out.

This is definitely one of those patience right of passage deals.

[DavidG]

Yes to your first question and it will eventually come loose with the phosphoric acid bath mentioned previously (with a little help from a pair of needle nose pliers). It appears that your gauge was replaced at some point in time as the steel housing is the later service version without an oval access hole directly above the glass tube (when installed) with a little brass plug to cover the access hole (see page 5-41).

[jim1932]

Originally Posted by DavidG

It appears that your gauge was replaced at some point in time as the steel housing is the later service version without an oval access hole directly above the glass tube (when installed) with a little brass plug to cover the access hole (see page 5-41).

I missed that one......

[jim1932]

Getting closer. The measuring rod or whatever will move more but still won't come out. The good news is that a bike air pump will push fluid through. I will just keep working it. I have not found metal prep so I have been using acetone.

[DavidG]

Any auto paint store will carry metal prep. You'll find it handy for other projects such as removing rust from fasteners and small parts, just don't put any zinc or cadmium plated items in it for more than a few seconds; die cast and aluminum items no more a few minutes

[jim1932]

Seems metal prep is getting scarce. Went to Auto paint store. They knew what it was and all and they looked, then checked the computer. None of their several stores had any. Something about getting ready for new EPA rules this summer.

On the good side, I can now pour acetone in the brass tube and slowly get about a 3/8" in the glass tube. How do I know when it is clean enough?

[jim1932]

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Answered my own question.. today I was able to turn it over and rap the brass tube on the bench. The measuring rod and some dust crud fell out. I did a little scraping and pushed a few tubes of Acetone through with the bike pump. Glad I was smart enough to be careful where it was pointed cause it cleared out in a hurry. Now any fluid poured in the tube flows right into the glass tube. I took a picture of the "measuring rod" that was in it. 2" long and looks like a scrap piece of copper wire?

I am soaking the top in rust dissolve, then I am ready to reassemble. Not that a judge will look that close under the dash, but should I paint the metal casing to prevent rust? Or I guess a clear coat would let it look stock but prevent rust. Now to get the remnant of the vent tube out of the ferrule....

[jim1932]

I put it all back together today, except for the fluid. I assume I need to put the "Calibrating Rod" back in before I add fluid? Any suggestions as to how to make sure the air line on the car is clear? the instructions say to use a bike pump but how do you connect it to the tube?

[FlatheadTed]

The bike pump seal is not critical use some rag or some tape around it , or just the end of the pump onto the Ferrel .The pump is to disperse any moister .The calibration rod needs to go back in .

[Brian]

Jim, You have every right to feel proud of that fuel gauge restoration! Very good. Be aware that the liquid used [tetra bromo ethane], in these gauges is, apart from being probably carcenogenic as hell, also extremely corrosive to metals, hence the reason these gauges are so hard to find in good restorable condition.

[Ian NZ]

I have a 1932 one available it has been replaced with a dual fuel /temp gauge and it is in very good order.

[jerseyboy]

Jim,
Nice job! Did you get the repair kit from Renner's?

Keep 4-banging!

[jim1932]

Originally Posted by jerseyboy

Jim,
Nice job! Did you get the repair kit from Renner's?

Keep 4-banging!

Yes it is Renners.

[jim1932]

OK, the tubing from the tank to the gauge is too short to reach now. Do I need to replace the whole tube, or can it joined (in a hidden area?). I am thinking of adding like a foot of rubber tubing in the middle under the firewall. That way I can hook up like a 3' piece of original tubing to the gas gauge, then install the gauge then hook the tubing along the frame where it won't be seen. Would this work?

[jim1932]

????

[DavidG]

It would likely "work".

[FlatheadTed]

I don't think it would work as It works on displacement ,I would recommend a 1/8 tube flared and soldered over the old one ,This has worked for me .Ted

[jim1932]

I guess I would be better served running a new line all the way up. Thank any way. Is there only one kit that is sold by all? Or are some better than others?

[jerseyboy]

Originally Posted by jim1932

I guess I would be better served running a new line all the way up. Thank any way. Is there only one kit that is sold by all? Or are some better than others?

I bought the replacement fuel line as well as the air line. I got them from:

Restorations & Reproductions
17100 NE San Rafael
Portland, OR 97230
(503) 257-2433

Keep 4-Banging!

[cas3]

old thread, good photos. i am missing the metering rod that jim1932 shows in his photo, is it really just a hunk of copper wire i can make, or is there more to the story? thanks, skip

[DavidG]

It should come out once you've added metal prep and let it sit overnight.

[B-O-B]

Large size like 12 ga copper wire will work but needs to be solid copper & length is critical. On the length you just have to keep fooling with it to get the right length. Make up several lengths is probably easiest.
A dollar store should have metal prep. Well mine did anyway in gal plastic jug, sez concrete & metal prep.

[tubman]

I've found the Dollar Stores to be excellent sources for automotive chemicals. My local "Dollar General" had Marvel Mystery Oil at less than half the price of my "discount" at the parts store across the highway.

[FlatheadTed]

Brass 1/16 welding rod does it to about a 1"

[cas3]

thanks very much, i'm on it

[materguru]

Dave
is there a sheet or page somewhere I thought I saw one that is directions on how to add the dye and calibrate the gauge? I looked through the bulletins but its a little ambiqious but it may be I'm a little thick.

[materguru]

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got it. King-Seeley has excellent explanation as well as Ford bulletins. Thanks all. How do you get the ferrule to seal around the air line? mine wont. When I tighten it down the air line still pulls out.

[deuce lover]

It has to be soldered at least mine did.

[DavidG]

Originally soldered as Sheldon indicates.

[Oliver1932]

Finally does that works? what an super thread!

Olivier