1936 Ford Pickup - New Fuel Pump, No Gas

[MadmanWilson]

Hey all,

I'm working on a 1936 Ford Pickup, all original. The thing will run pretty well when it gets gas.

So I bought a new mechanical fuel pump (like the original) from Mac's and stuck in on the truck along with an new gas tank. I ran the line up there and cranked and cranked but I can't seem to get any fuel out of that tank. Has anyone else had something like this happen?

I may just go with an electric pump if it's too much of an issue, let me know what your experiences are there.

Thanks!

[TonyM]

Yes, I have had two reproduction fuel pumps fail on my 1937 Ford 85hp. The first one worked for about 500 miles. The second one failed after 3.1 miles--leaking gas like crazy and huffing against itself. I bought a reconditioned vintage 1937 pump.

[Kurt in NJ]

If there are ANY leaks in the line from the tank to the fuel pump the pump will have trouble picking up a prime

if you dissconnect the fuel line going into the pump and hook up a vacuum gauge will the pump make vacuum? ---if you don't have a gauge hold a finger over the hole ans see if you can feel it trying to suck your finger in

in the old days it was expected to check that the screws are tight ---and I learned to work the pump lever and feel for pressure and suction before installation

what country was the pump made in ---

[Graeme / New Zealand]

I've primed my line in the past by disconnecting the flexi line under the hood and sucking up the gas but be careful not to get a mouthful. Not really the best thing to do but it works.

GB

[ford3]

put a jet nozzle in the filler neck and sealed with a rag, squirt a little air pressure in the tank while a friend turns the engine over, some pumps just wont pick up fuel when new, be careful with the air it only takes a couple of pounds to force fuel to the pump and carb, and doing this you can look under the car to see if you have any leaks, if there are any you will be able to see the drips or wet spots on the fuel line

[36Bill]

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I had a new pump that never worked so check it. Also any fitting that isn't tight will stop the pump. I had bad threads on the input to the pump that let in air. I put on an old pump and everything worked, I still use it.

Bill

[49r]

Loosen the filter bowl and blow in the tank (I put a rag around the neck to avoid the flavours). This expels air from the line and filter bowl. When the bowl is fuel of petrol tighten it back up. I do this on my 8BA - the 36 pump may be different.

[George/Maine]

The fitting that is on the tank do you have enough tubing in the tank.
If you disconnect line at pump and blow into tank see if you hear bubbles.
IT may pickup faster if you prim carb with little gas. may take few times.

[Vic Piano]

Unfortunately, the combination of 'corn gas' and poor quality control of foreign made parts (fuel pumps in particular) all add to the fuel delivery problem. I've has similar instances with fuel pumps, both new and rebuilt and, with the constant threat of the dreaded 'Vapor Lock' here in the warmer climate of central Florida, I have converted four of our Flatheads to electric fuel pumps. Most recently, I converted our '39 CS (6 volt positive ground) and used an OEM fuel pump that was converted to a 'pass through' my Marv here on the FordBarn. I just did the same conversion on our '39 LZ (12 volt negative ground). this system works and has vanquished Vapor Lock while providing a constant flow of fuel at 2.5 psi. This combination has noticeably improved the performance of the '39 CS. I haven't had the Zephyr back on the road yet, still rewiring her. I would recommend this conversion as it improves performance while retaining the look of originality under the hood.

[supereal]

If you used Teflon tape on any of the connections in the fuel system, you may have a blockage of one of the valves in the mechanical pump. Teflon tape and RTV silicone should never be used where gasoline is involved. Installing the new pump may have caused the flex line to either leak air, or collapse internally, cutting off flow. Also be sure the pump rod is actually in the cup on the end of the fuel pump lever. I prefer to install pumps by taking the stand and pump off of the intake manifold and reinstalling as a unit. That makes sure the rod is in the cup. If you have any clamps on rubber hose in the system, be sure to use barb connectors and worm gear clamps to reduce the possibility of air leaks. If you reused any brass ferrules in the system, same is true.

[Jeff/Illinois]

Had this same problem on our '36 Pickup using a 'new' fuel pump. Found an original, sent it to Charlie out in NY, got it back with his new ethanol resistant diaphragm, has worked good for the last two years no problems. I'd recommend finding an original and go from there.