Go Back   The Ford Barn > General Discussion > Early V8 (1932-53)

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-18-2018, 12:46 PM   #1
Licensed to kill
Senior Member
 
Licensed to kill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Alberta
Posts: 930
Default More flathead questions.

So, I pulled the pan yesterday and checked the bearings today. From what I've read, it appeared that this was a "war period" flatty as it has a crab style dizzy although IIRC, this dizzy went to 48 or 49. However, checking the crank journals, I have 2.114 throws which, according to what I've found, suggested a 1946 or later, turned .025. Does this make it a safe assumption that this engine is 1946-1949?. Also, I was expecting babbit but it has bearing shells and they are REALLY thick (relative to any other bearings I've ever dealt with). Would this engine have been manufactured with shells or is it a babbit/shell conversion??. I'm having issues getting the centre main cap off so i have yet to check the journal size of the mains.
Licensed to kill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2018, 01:26 PM   #2
JSeery
Member Emeritus
 
JSeery's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
Default Re: More flathead questions.

External parts get swaped around a lot so that doesn't tell you much. Babbit bearings were only used on the earlier 21 stud engines. The rod bearings should be floaters. Is there a 59 cast into the half bellhousing?
JSeery is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
Old 11-18-2018, 01:29 PM   #3
Licensed to kill
Senior Member
 
Licensed to kill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Alberta
Posts: 930
Default Re: More flathead questions.

My research has been informative but confusing. From what I can gather, <48 used full floating bearings. Mine does not so I looked at '49. However, '49 had a Rod bore of 2.229 and the <48, with the floating bearings has a rod bore of 2.3595, mine with fixed bearing shells has a rod bore of 2.356 (measured at the top of the cap with callipers so that would account for the .003-.004 discrepancy). Unless I'm missing something, (which is likely) it almost looks like this came with floating bearings and someone had the rods cut to accept fixed bearing shells. Thoughts??.
Licensed to kill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2018, 01:38 PM   #4
Licensed to kill
Senior Member
 
Licensed to kill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Alberta
Posts: 930
Default Re: More flathead questions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JSeery View Post
External parts get swaped around a lot so that doesn't tell you much. Babbit bearings were only used on the earlier 21 stud engines. The rod bearings should be floaters. Is there a 59 cast into the half bellhousing?
There is just a 9 (or a 6) cast just to the right of centre. Another oddity I found while looking for the number on the half bellhouseing is that it appears to have an oil pressure sending unit (with a short wire attached but not going anywhere) but the truck did not have an oil pressure gauge or provisions for one.
Licensed to kill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2018, 03:45 PM   #5
corvette8n
Senior Member
 
corvette8n's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: 36 miles north of Albany NY
Posts: 2,931
Default Re: More flathead questions.

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/f...ifications.htm
Try the link above, it should help.
corvette8n is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2018, 03:54 PM   #6
Ken/Alabama
Senior Member
 
Ken/Alabama's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 3,237
Default Re: More flathead questions.

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
Some photos would help us identify what you have
Ken/Alabama is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2018, 03:57 PM   #7
Mike in AZ
Senior Member
 
Mike in AZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Waddell, AZ
Posts: 2,540
Default Re: More flathead questions.

If you could post some pics,always helpful. Any numbers on the rods? Mike
Mike in AZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2018, 09:04 PM   #8
Ol' Ron
Senior Member
 
Ol' Ron's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Chester Vt
Posts: 8,842
Default Re: More flathead questions.

A 2.229 rod bore is a .020 under crank size for a late 38 to 41 ford engine with 99a or 21A rods. I assume this is the crank in your engine. However this crank can be installed in any Block from 38 thru 53, and is a common racing practice.
Ol' Ron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2018, 09:25 PM   #9
flatjack9
Senior Member
 
flatjack9's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oshkosh, Wi
Posts: 4,516
Default Re: More flathead questions.

What is the main journal diameter? Hey Ron, don't you mean 91A rods? 99A were for a 2.139 journal.
flatjack9 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2018, 10:15 PM   #10
Licensed to kill
Senior Member
 
Licensed to kill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Alberta
Posts: 930
Default Re: More flathead questions.

Initially, the plan was to drop the pan to clean it out, check the bearings while the pan was off and put back together. However, the goo in the bottom of the pan felt gritty and, pulling one rod cap found copper showing so it needs bearings. I don't want to take the chance of any grit being in the lifter valley or anywhere else so will be pulling the motor tomorrow. Once I get it out and on a stand (will have to make an adapter to mount it), I will be able to take it apart and get better measurements off of the crank. I'm not expecting any other issues but we will see. Thanks for the input so far guys. very much appreciated.
Licensed to kill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2018, 10:22 PM   #11
Tinker
Senior Member
 
Tinker's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: MN
Posts: 7,053
Default Re: More flathead questions.

Babbit's are mid 36 change. Mid yr change. 36LB motors. Babbits are not a bad deal, if there are shims left.


Think around 34 was the addition of cam bearings also.

There is a better one I believe from the barn. Hope someone can add as I know this have been posted better then this link.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...cation.594463/







.

Last edited by Tinker; 11-18-2018 at 10:28 PM.
Tinker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2018, 10:29 PM   #12
Licensed to kill
Senior Member
 
Licensed to kill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Alberta
Posts: 930
Default Re: More flathead questions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinker View Post
Babbit's are mid 36 change. Mid yr change. 36LB motors. Babbits are not a bad deal, if there are shims left.


Think around 34 was the addition of cam bearings also.


https://www.jalopyjournal.com/?p=488




.
I wasn't sure when they went to bearing shells. was expecting babbit and to just check clearances and shim accordingly until I found bearing shells and copper showing.
Licensed to kill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2018, 10:32 PM   #13
Tinker
Senior Member
 
Tinker's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: MN
Posts: 7,053
Default Re: More flathead questions.

Well don't be sad inserts/floaters are easier then babbit. But now you know after mid36 inserts came into the scene. But that's not the only question.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3qEhj-rQSAU

Last edited by Tinker; 11-18-2018 at 11:43 PM.
Tinker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2018, 10:56 PM   #14
Licensed to kill
Senior Member
 
Licensed to kill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Alberta
Posts: 930
Default Re: More flathead questions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinker View Post
Well don't be sad inserts are easier then babbit. But now you know after mid36 inserts came into the scene. But that's not the only question.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3qEhj-rQSAU
Yes, I was quite pleased to see inserts, not so much about the copper.
Licensed to kill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2018, 10:58 PM   #15
Tinker
Senior Member
 
Tinker's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: MN
Posts: 7,053
Default Re: More flathead questions.

Super neat project dude!
Tinker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2018, 11:30 PM   #16
cajunfirehawk
Senior Member
 
cajunfirehawk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Ms GulfCoast
Posts: 238
Thumbs up Re: More flathead questions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Licensed to kill View Post
Once I get it out and on a stand (will have to make an adapter to mount it)
FYI stumpysfabworks.com sells an adapter to mount to the exhaust bolts to hang a flathead on a normal engine stand, runs about $69, YMMV
__________________
Regards,
Todd

1936 FORD Tudor Slantback


"cajunhotrodder" on instagram/youtube
cajunfirehawk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2018, 11:35 PM   #17
Graeme / New Zealand
Senior Member
 
Graeme / New Zealand's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lower Hutt , New Zealand
Posts: 2,125
Default Re: More flathead questions.

Some Canadian 1948 blocks had insert bearings as opposed to floaters (rods). Think these should have a casting C69 somewhere on them (bell housing?). FOMOCO NZ got CKD fords ex FOMOCO Canada. I has a c69 block in a 47 coupe I had years ago...with the inset bearings. This was the start of transition to 8BA but was in the style of a 59 engine. It was a Ford Canada thing and didn't follow in the US I believe.

GB
__________________
"you can't make honey out of dog sh*t"

"You're a long time looking at the lid"

Last edited by Graeme / New Zealand; 11-18-2018 at 11:49 PM.
Graeme / New Zealand is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-2018, 12:10 AM   #18
Ol' Ron
Senior Member
 
Ol' Ron's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Chester Vt
Posts: 8,842
Default Re: More flathead questions.

The 99a and the 21A rods are for the small 1.998 crank, and the 29A is for the 2.138 crank. I used both of these when racing. At present the new 258 race motor is with a late 38 crank and 99A rods. I hone these rods to 2.2215 for better oil flow. I also increase the rod side clearance to .012". You must realize that oil is also used for cooling the bearings, so flow is important.
Ol' Ron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-2018, 12:39 AM   #19
40larry
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northridge, CA
Posts: 234
Default Re: More flathead questions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ol' Ron View Post
The 99a and the 21A rods are for the small 1.998 crank, and the 29A is for the 2.138 crank. I used both of these when racing. At present the new 258 race motor is with a late 38 crank and 99A rods. I hone these rods to 2.2215 for better oil flow. I also increase the rod side clearance to .012". You must realize that oil is also used for cooling the bearings, so flow is important.



The 91A and 21A rods are for the earlier 1.999 Ford crank journal prior to 1946 and the 99A and 29A rods are for the 2.139 journal used through 1948. The 99A rod was used in 1939 and up for the Mercury or truck engine with the larger bore. The 29A rods were used on both Ford and Mercury engines between 1946 and 1948.
40larry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-2018, 12:53 AM   #20
40larry
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northridge, CA
Posts: 234
Default Re: More flathead questions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ol' Ron View Post
A 2.229 rod bore is a .020 under crank size for a late 38 to 41 ford engine with 99a or 21A rods. I assume this is the crank in your engine. However this crank can be installed in any Block from 38 thru 53, and is a common racing practice.

The rod bore does not indicate what the crankshaft undersize is. The rod bore defines the outer diameter for the bearing being used. Ford made engine bearings that fit oversize rod bore and undersize crankshaft diameter and these bearings can still be found today.
40larry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-2018, 10:04 AM   #21
Ol' Ron
Senior Member
 
Ol' Ron's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Chester Vt
Posts: 8,842
Default Re: More flathead questions.

I just recieved a set of 99?? rods from a friend for the 258 project. I was looking for 21a rods, but he didn't have any so sent me these. I never measured them. I will now. When the 91 rod was mentioned above, I realized that I could be wrong, sorry about that, I'll check today.
Ol' Ron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-2018, 06:15 PM   #22
Brian
Senior Member
 
Brian's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Masterton, New Zealand
Posts: 3,816
Default Re: More flathead questions.

Licenced to kill, The earlier post by Graeme is correct; you are Canadian, as is your engine. Those really thick, lock in shells you describe as out of your engine are a Canadian only thing. As New Zealand Fords were sourced from Canada, these things are quite commonly found down under, however, the majority of posters on this thread, being from USA, haven't seen this stuff. Your crankpins will have double holes in them in order each bearing gets lubed; the American full floater cranks only had one hole per journal, which lubed the entire full floater. Your conrods have those notches from the factory, the American rods, on account of the full floater design, did not have any need for the notches.
Now, the good news is that you can use your crank and rods with either the original style lock in shells, or the regular USA full floaters. All journal sizes/ rod bores are the same. You cannot use your lock in shells and rods on a single hole journalled crank!
__________________
Unfortunately, two half wits don't make a whole wit!
Brian is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
Old 11-20-2018, 07:45 AM   #23
Bored&Stroked
Senior Member
 
Bored&Stroked's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 5,012
Default Re: More flathead questions.

Brian has it right - you have a Canadian version of a 59x series - with big thick ole' lock in bearing shells. I've never built one of these variants (with the lock-in shells). You may have a hard time finding replacement bearings - so you may need to go to either a later set of 49-53 rods with insert bearings (probably the best/easiest route) or go back to full-floaters . . . which do take some expertise to correctly size the shells for roundness. They absolutely need to "float" - if they do not, then the issues begin!

PS: You can buy a brand new set of 49-53 type rods from SoCal. While $270 may seem expensive, by the time you buy used rods and have them completely redone - you're usually out a similar amount of $$$. These rods use the inexpensive late/modern style bearings which are very inexpensive as compared to full-floaters.

https://www.socalsac.com/Stock-Rod-7...flat001020.htm

Last edited by Bored&Stroked; 11-20-2018 at 07:52 AM.
Bored&Stroked is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2018, 12:46 PM   #24
Flathead
Senior Member
 
Flathead's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern Maine
Posts: 1,493
Default Re: More flathead questions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Licensed to kill View Post
Initially, the plan was to drop the pan to clean it out, check the bearings while the pan was off and put back together. However, the goo in the bottom of the pan felt gritty and, pulling one rod cap found copper showing so it needs bearings. I don't want to take the chance of any grit being in the lifter valley or anywhere else so will be pulling the motor tomorrow. Once I get it out and on a stand (will have to make an adapter to mount it), I will be able to take it apart and get better measurements off of the crank. I'm not expecting any other issues but we will see. Thanks for the input so far guys. very much appreciated.

Some of the original Ford bearings were all copper color when new.
Flathead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2018, 07:24 PM   #25
Licensed to kill
Senior Member
 
Licensed to kill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Alberta
Posts: 930
Default Re: More flathead questions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked View Post
by the time you buy used rods and have them completely redone .........
What do you mean by "completely redone"??
Licensed to kill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2018, 09:28 AM   #26
Hoop
Senior Member
 
Hoop's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Jacksonville FL
Posts: 1,137
Default Re: More flathead questions.

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
"LB" engines with shell bearings were introduced at the beginning of the 1936 production year ... in Sept. 1935. Both "LB" and babbitt were made throughout the year.

There was/is no "mid-year" thing.

"The Early Ford V8 as Henry Built It," Francis/DeAngelis, page 21.
__________________
"Remember that when it comes to intelligence, half of all of us are below average."
Hoop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2018, 09:55 AM   #27
rotorwrench
Senior Member
 
rotorwrench's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 16,370
Default Re: More flathead questions.

The Canadian C69A series engine was set up with shells on the rods. They have unique bearings that are thicker the 8BA types and I've heard that they are getting harder to source. A person can change the crank and rods over to 8BA types so at least the bearings are abundant. The C69 usually has the number on the back bell housing part of the block. These were post war engines that came on line somewhere in 1946. Inspect the oil porting on the back of the engine carefully. Some Canadian engines still had a pressure flow oil filtering system that was carried over from WWII. It has to be connected properly prior to use or the engine may not have oil pressure. Some applications even used an oil cooler set up.

Last edited by rotorwrench; 11-21-2018 at 10:03 AM.
rotorwrench is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2018, 11:58 PM   #28
Ol' Ron
Senior Member
 
Ol' Ron's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Chester Vt
Posts: 8,842
Default Re: More flathead questions.

Well I have to admit that my eyesight is getting worse or my memory is fading. Maybe both. Yes the 99 rods are for the large 2.138 crank journals, and are an early version of the 29A rods. That makes the 91a rod the small one. I"ll have to have my post edited by my dog "Stroker"
Ol' Ron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2018, 02:40 PM   #29
Licensed to kill
Senior Member
 
Licensed to kill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Alberta
Posts: 930
Default Re: More flathead questions.

Pulled the engine and am in the process of disassembling, didn't notice the number cast in the block in front of the head before "C59A". A search on the forum confirms that this is a canadian block (which was already established) but nothing about years of production.
Licensed to kill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2018, 10:46 PM   #30
flatjack9
Senior Member
 
flatjack9's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oshkosh, Wi
Posts: 4,516
Default Re: More flathead questions.

1946 to 1948 model years. It was actually introduced in 1945, thus the 59A.
flatjack9 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2018, 10:07 AM   #31
rotorwrench
Senior Member
 
rotorwrench's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 16,370
Default Re: More flathead questions.

Canadian production was different then US production on engines, engine components, and a few other drive line components. The C59 engine should be about the same as the US 59 counterpart. The C69 had the updated crankshaft and replaced the C59 as the stocks were depleted. There has been a lot of water under the bridge though. The crank & rods could have been changed out at some previous overhaul. Large scale overhaul shops mixed & matched all the time.
rotorwrench is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2018, 09:53 AM   #32
Bored&Stroked
Senior Member
 
Bored&Stroked's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 5,012
Default Re: More flathead questions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Licensed to kill View Post
What do you mean by "completely redone"??
Used rods need to be checked for straightness, have the pin bushings checked and potentially replaced, have the big-ends checked and maybe the caps machined and resized, honed, etc.. Shot-peened maybe . . . All in all, can easily be a couple hundred $$$. And - if they are full-floater rods, then creating a mirrored finish is critical - and most don't get this, nor know how to even do it.

Last edited by Bored&Stroked; 11-24-2018 at 11:07 AM.
Bored&Stroked is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2018, 10:39 AM   #33
Ol' Ron
Senior Member
 
Ol' Ron's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Chester Vt
Posts: 8,842
Default Re: More flathead questions.

Also the wrist pin bushing are swagged into the rod before honing. Very few shops have the equipment to do this. I don't change the wrist pin bushing unless it really bad.
Ol' Ron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2018, 11:36 AM   #34
Licensed to kill
Senior Member
 
Licensed to kill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Alberta
Posts: 930
Default Re: More flathead questions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked View Post
Used rods need to be checked for straightness, have the pin bushings checked and potentially replaced, have the big-ends checked and maybe the caps machined and resized, honed, etc.. Shot-peened maybe . . . All in all, can easily be a couple hundred $$$. And - if they are full-floater rods, then creating a mirrored finish is critical - and most don't get this, nor know how to even do it.
I picked up some parts from a buddy yesterday. 2 full sets of rods and a set of valves/guides/springs. The reason for the two sets of rods is so I can check them (visually) and discard any that appear suspect and the reason for the valves is that I was having issues getting the guides out and took them in case I needed to cut some valves off the get the guides out. I did manage to get all the valves out but damaged several guides in the process (broke the shoulders off trying to pry them down to remove the upper clip). I'm doing my best to gain traction on this slippery slope one finds themselves on when you open up an engine. If this engine was for a pickup or car, I would just replace all of the valves/guides, get new rods and consider a bore. However, this engine is going in a 1 1/2 ton tow truck and, while I will drive it, it won't see 1000 miles in it's lifetime so getting too carried away just doesn't make any sense (to me). It does take some serious willpower though as, like I say, it's a slippery slope with "while I'm in here, I should.....". I have the block stripped (with the exception of the cam bearings that I'll take out today) and will be taking it in to be hot tanked next week (it is disgustingly grungy). Then, the plan is (so far) rings, bearings (rod, mains and cam) and gaskets, paint it and put it back in. also, I will be putting each valve in the lathe and running it to check for straightness. They all look good and the seats appear good but a couple of them got fired across the shop getting them out before my son came over and acted as "catcher".

Last edited by Licensed to kill; 11-24-2018 at 11:44 AM.
Licensed to kill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2018, 11:47 AM   #35
GOSFAST
Senior Member
 
GOSFAST's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1,052
Default Re: More flathead questions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Licensed to kill View Post
I picked up some parts from a buddy yesterday. 2 full sets of rods and a set of valves/guides/springs. The reason for the two sets of rods is so I can check them (visually) and discard any that appear suspect and the reason for the valves is that I was having issues getting the guides out and took them in case I needed to cut some valves off the get the guides out. I did manage to get all the valves out but damaged several guides in the process (broke the shoulders off trying to pry them down to remove the upper clip). I'm doing my best to gain traction on this slippery slope one finds themselves on when you open up an engine. If this engine was for a pickup or car, I would just replace all of the valves/guides, get new rods and consider a bore. However, this engine is going in a 1 1/2 ton tow truck and, while I will drive it, it won't see 1000 miles in it's lifetime so getting too carried away just doesn't make any sense (to me). It does take some serious willpower though as, like I say, it's a slippery slope with "while I'm in here, I should.....". I have the block stripped (with the exception of the cam bearings that I'll take out today) and will be taking it in to be hot tanked next week (it is disgustingly grungy). Then, the plan is (so far) rings, bearings (rod, mains and cam) and gaskets, paint it and put it back in.
You might want to seriously consider some bronze-lined guides along with some stainless valves? Now would be the time!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. You will NEVER experience any "hung" valves during longer periods of storage. At some point this will happen w/o the liners, just a matter of when!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Flathead Bronze Guides-Seals-Valves.JPG (76.0 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg Flathead Bronze Guides Seals.JPG (74.5 KB, 13 views)

Last edited by GOSFAST; 11-24-2018 at 11:54 AM. Reason: Add info
GOSFAST is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2018, 11:53 AM   #36
Licensed to kill
Senior Member
 
Licensed to kill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Alberta
Posts: 930
Default Re: More flathead questions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GOSFAST View Post
You might want to seriously consider some bronze-lined guides along with some stainless valves? Now would be the time!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. You will NEVER experience any "hung" valves during longer periods of storage. At some point this will happen w/o the liners, just a matter of when!
It had been parked for at least 7-8 years and did have one sticky valve. Solid advice but in an effort to gain the aforementioned "traction", I will run MMO in the fuel (as others do) and make a point of running/diving it occasionally.
Licensed to kill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2018, 03:56 AM   #37
GEOFFNZ
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Oxford New Zealand
Posts: 177
Default Re: More flathead questions.

I go with Graeme. Some Canadian engines had insert bearings.They were very thick shells and are now hard to find.The rods were big bore and I think would take floaters as compared to the smaller bore 8BA rods. Both cranks the same size.Cheers, Geoff
GEOFFNZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:31 PM.