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Old 09-05-2015, 08:33 PM   #1
Walt Ebie
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Default E-Brake adjustment

My '30 came with hydraulic brakes installed and apparently some modification to the e- brake as well which needs tightening. I can see how to tighten up the cable by disconnecting the part that holds the cable to the back end of the rod that goes back to the brake handle and I have tightened it up once - as tight as I can by hand but it needs more. The brakes still have no effect when the handle is pulled back as far as it can go. Question: Since the cable requires more tension that I can manage with one hand under there and still be able to put the bolt back through the 'clevis', is there an easy way to do that?
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Old 09-05-2015, 09:24 PM   #2
redmodelt
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Default Re: E-Brake adjustment

I think this is one of those we need photos to see what you have. And which brakes do you have? While the plumbing of the cylinders is somewhat straight forward, the E-brake can very between different cars as it can be custom made by the person installing it following their own ideas.
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Old 09-07-2015, 06:38 PM   #3
Walt Ebie
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Default Re: E-Brake adjustment

Okay, I finally got the picture. As you see, the cable rides on a 'saddle' which is fastened to the rod assembly by a cotter pin. To adjust it you remove the cotter pin and 'saddle' and then screw the bolt further in and then refasten the saddle with the cotter pin. My problem is that it's impossible to put enough tension on the saddle with one hand so that you can put the cotter pin back in. So I was looking for an idea of how to draw up the cable so it can be refastened with the pin. Originally they had the brake cable routed under a small piece on the side of the frame and the brakes worked fine. But it seemed to me that rubbing on this metal part would sooner or later put some bad wear on the cable. Any thoughts would be welcome. By the way, I have no clue what kind of brakes were put on but it's really just a matter of tightening up the cable.
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Old 09-07-2015, 07:13 PM   #4
Bob C
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Default Re: E-Brake adjustment

I would remove the lower pin also, then you could pull the lever back farther
put the top pin in and have more leverage to get the lower pin in.

Bob
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Old 09-07-2015, 07:25 PM   #5
daveymc29
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Default Re: E-Brake adjustment

My setup for the ebrake was done a bit differently. The outer end of the brake cross shaft was used with the cable looped over the ends where the ebrake rods had been attached. Obviously two cables were used, one on each side. I undid the ends at the cross shaft and replaced them with turn buckles. The turnbuckles then became my adjustment points. Yours appears to me to be a better system, as there is some balance between the two brakes. Mine is guess work. I test the tension on the cables for equal give.
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Old 09-07-2015, 07:33 PM   #6
CWPASADENA
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Default Re: E-Brake adjustment

I do not think you are getting enough travel on the cable.

On all the early Ford hydraulic conversions that use the Model A type e-brake handle I have been involved with, we usually arrange the linkage so the cable is pulled directly by the e-brake handle.

The way yours is set up, the E-brake pull rod is attached to a lever and the cable is attached to a different hole in the same lever that is closer to the pivot. Now what happens when you pull on the E-brake handle, the E-brake pull rod will pull the lever forward. The cable attaching clevis will also be pulled forward BUT only about one half the distance the E-brake pull rod will move. IE, If the E-Brake handle pull rod is pulled forward 2 inches, the cable clevis will only be pulled forward about 1 inch. The cable needs more than this to set the parking brakes.

To correct this, you need to rework what you have so the cable clevis is pulled directly by the E-brake pull rod, not thru a lever in such a manner where the ratio of displacement of the pull rod will yield only half dispacement for the cable.

As a test, get a long clevis pin or a bolt and nut and attach the cable clevis in the same hole on the lever that the E-brake pull rod is attached. This will give you a ratio of 1:1 which is what you want.

Before you drive the car, be sure you do any modifications in a sound workman like manner and not leave something that is jerry-rigged. You want to be able to depend on the E-brakes if you should louse the service brakes.

This is JUST MY OPINION AND OBSERVATIONS.

Chris W.
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Old 09-08-2015, 06:10 PM   #7
1931 flamingo
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Default Re: E-Brake adjustment

There are cable tighteners available (or used to be). Similar to a small u bolt. It's been so long I forget how to describe.
Mitch will know what I'm talking about, or bill.
Paul in CT

Are there brake shoes inside ??
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Old 09-10-2015, 06:19 PM   #8
Walt Ebie
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Default Re: E-Brake adjustment

Thank for your help! After looking at CW's suggestions, I found that I could connect the cable clevis and the pull rod clevis directly together with a 2-inch cotter key and also tightened the adjustable cable clevis a good bit. Now I have an emergency brake that allows the wheels to run free and also grab the car to a full stop while it'son a slow roll. Thanks again!
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