FS electronic ignition

[oldredford]

I keep saying the next time I have a problem with my electronic ignition I am going back to points. The coil got hot and car would not start. Hardly no spark. The module either works or not. Took the coil off the other A and now the car starts fine. Paid $44. for a new coil when a regular coil cost $15. I keep saying no more but I find myself paying the price....

[michael a]

Originally Posted by oldredford

I keep saying the next time I have a problem with my electronic ignition I am going back to points. The coil got hot and car would not start. Hardly no spark. The module either works or not. Took the coil off the other A and now the car starts fine. Paid $44. for a new coil when a regular coil cost $15. I keep saying no more but I find myself paying the price....

Are you on 6 volt or 12

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by oldredford

I keep saying the next time I have a problem with my electronic ignition I am going back to points. The coil got hot and car would not start. Hardly no spark. The module either works or not. Took the coil off the other A and now the car starts fine. Paid $44. for a new coil when a regular coil cost $15. I keep saying no more but I find myself paying the price....

Most coils are off shore cheapies no matter what you paid.

The best ever ( havent seen a bad one ) is the Bosch Blue # 00012, not 12 bucks but could be the best money you ever spent ..

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CO4WA2...505769111&sr=1

[MAG]

Electronic Ignition systems on a Model A are like having a pet rattlesnake......
one day.......

[duke36]

The Bosch Blue 00012 12 volts are I believe made in Brazil not Germany. Anyone have issues with these?

[briphaeton]

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I'm running a late 70's honda civic electronic distributor for 24 years with no problems but I use the coil that came with the honda. I also used the bosch blue coil on our 72 Bug and they are the greatest. The honda distributor body needs to cut .060 down and the shaft needs to be notched like the Model A. They both turn counter clockwise.

[Corley]

Originally Posted by briphaeton

I'm running a late 70's honda civic electronic distributor for 24 years with no problems but I use the coil that came with the honda. I also used the bosch blue coil on our 72 Bug and they are the greatest. The honda distributor body needs to cut .060 down and the shaft needs to be notched like the Model A. They both turn counter clockwise.

Wait a minute. Are you also using a vacuum advance with this setup? Tell me more about this setup. I'd really like to try a vacuum advance on one of the As.

[steve s]

Originally Posted by Corley

Wait a minute. Are you also using a vacuum advance with this setup? Tell me more about this setup. I'd really like to try a vacuum advance on one of the As.

I'd really like to hear about this too. I've yet to hear of anyone who has incorporated vacuum advance or retard--which is crucial--along with their centrifugal advance system. I set up my Pertronix and in-valve-chamber centrifugal advance with three clicks of retard left on the spark lever at tdc, so I can play the role of human vacuum retard and stop knocking at low rpms under load.

[briphaeton]

Yes it's has vacuum advance running off the vacuum port of the weber 32/36 carb (probably both centrifugal and vacuum) and averaging 25 plus mpg (fordor sedan). The distributor has around 28 degrees advance. The mechanical advance is not connected. I learned of this 25 years ago from the Nor Cal FAST club hill climbs. Charlie Yapp's front drive distributor uses a VW distributor. It's timed just like a Mallory Distributor. I've only looked under the cap a couple of times all of those years.

[katy]

Something like this? http://www.cardone.com/Products/Prod...p=rock&jsn=540

[AL in NY]

I don't know why so many people have a problem with electronic ignition in a Model A. Electronic ignition has been around since the middle 70's and is very reliable. The Pertronix Ignitor II module is pretty bulletproof if installed correctly(dedicated ground from distributor to battery). After installation, your timing doesn't change EVER due to point block wear. In the rare instance that the module does fail(hasn't happened to me), it's easily changed on the roadside. A spare module cost less than the value of a spare distributor many Model A'ers carry "just in case". I'm adding a note I got from Mel Mallory of FS Ignitions just before I bought my Zipper distributor in 2008. The Pertronix module is extremely reliable and I have nearly 10 years and 15,000 miles on this ignition setup with absolutely NO PROBLEMS. How many times have you "points guys" adjusted your points and fiddled with your timing in that time period!!!!!!!!!!!!!!..............See Mels note below.

[AL in NY]

Mel's Note...........

[briphaeton]

Yes they look alike but I use the 1978-1981 model

[briphaeton]

The problem I see with coil is the way they are wired. The power comes off the starter and goes to the coil then the switch. I prefer going to the switch then to the coil.

[Jim Baskin III Pa.]

Originally Posted by AL in NY

I don't know why so many people have a problem with electronic ignition in a Model A. Electronic ignition has been around since the middle 70's and is very reliable. The Pertronix Ignitor II module is pretty bulletproof if installed correctly(dedicated ground from distributor to battery). After installation, your timing doesn't change EVER due to point block wear. In the rare instance that the module does fail(hasn't happened to me), it's easily changed on the roadside. A spare module cost less than the value of a spare distributor many Model A'ers carry "just in case". I'm adding a note I got from Mel Mallory of FS Ignitions just before I bought my Zipper distributor in 2008. The Pertronix module is extremely reliable and I have nearly 10 years and 15,000 miles on this ignition setup with absolutely NO PROBLEMS. How many times have you "points guys" adjusted your points and fiddled with your timing in that time period!!!!!!!!!!!!!!..............See Mels note below.

Same here Al,10yrs and not one instance.Would never go back to points.

[Dave in MN]

I have an original distributor and points in my '28 CC Pickup that I maybe drive 500 miles in a rare year. Most often less...sometimes, like last year, it won't make it out of storage.

In my Touring car, see avatar to the left, I have run the same Nu-Rex electronic ignition system for over 90,000 miles. I had an intermittent problem when I had about 10,000 miles on it and discovered it was a faulty ground. I tightened the ground and have had no road problems since. I do go through the wiring on my car every 3 years or so and clean all the connections so I assume this helps contribute to "no problems". I keep a spare module under the seat but it just collects dust.
About 20,000 miles ago, I replaced the bushings in the distributor because I noticed they were sloppy but even with the worn bushings, it still ran without any issues. I have manual advance in this car.

I am now building a '31 S/W Town Sedan as a touring car and will be using a FSI electronic distributor with the centrifugal advance. I will keep a spare module with me but don't expect to need it.
I don't have a problem with stock systems but I prefer the electronic given my good luck with them.
Good Day!

[Corley]

Briphaeton, I imagine you had to recurve the mechanical advance on that Honda dizzy as the Honda would run at much higher rpms, and probably the advance comes in later. But I love the idea of a vacuum advance. Vw parts are really just rehashed Ford parts anyway, right? Ha! Gotta try this idea.

[briphaeton]

No we didn't re curve the advance. I have a sheet a various Honda distributors spec. (somewhere) The VW distributor has a clockwise advance (good for the front drive adapter that Mr Yapp makes) and I seen Surburu electronic distributor used instead. I also read that Datsun distributor are a good replacement for Mallorys. The great thing about the Honda was they were only $25 then. I used to bring a might-vac and check it the vacuum held pressure.

[junk yard kid]

I love points, There used to be a points option with the FS distributer. Thats what i have.

[Corley]

Originally Posted by briphaeton

I'm running a late 70's honda civic electronic distributor for 24 years with no problems but I use the coil that came with the honda. I also used the bosch blue coil on our 72 Bug and they are the greatest. The honda distributor body needs to cut .060 down and the shaft needs to be notched like the Model A. They both turn counter clockwise.

With that electronic Honda dizzy, and Honda coil, is the electronic control all built into the distributor, or is there an additional control box of some kind? I just ordered that dizzy, and want to play around with the vacuum advance idea. I feel there could be great benefit to a vacuum advance in addition to the centrifigul advance.

If anyone has a wiring diagram of the Honda setup, please point me to it. Google has not been my friend on this, and seems to present everything from atvs to Cadillacs, but not the Honda wiring diagram. Maybe I'm too old for googling this one. Ha!

[briphaeton]

No additional control box, it' all in the distributor. It's magnetic like the pertronix unit.
There are three wires, the blue goes to the negative side of the coil and the black with the yellow tracer go to the positive side of the coil and last a ground (one without a eyelet).
Of coarse it has to be 12 volt negative ground.

[California Travieso]

Originally Posted by AL in NY

I don't know why so many people have a problem with electronic ignition in a Model A. Electronic ignition has been around since the middle 70's and is very reliable. The Pertronix Ignitor II module is pretty bulletproof if installed correctly(dedicated ground from distributor to battery). After installation, your timing doesn't change EVER due to point block wear. In the rare instance that the module does fail(hasn't happened to me), it's easily changed on the roadside. A spare module cost less than the value of a spare distributor many Model A'ers carry "just in case". I'm adding a note I got from Mel Mallory of FS Ignitions just before I bought my Zipper distributor in 2008. The Pertronix module is extremely reliable and I have nearly 10 years and 15,000 miles on this ignition setup with absolutely NO PROBLEMS. How many times have you "points guys" adjusted your points and fiddled with your timing in that time period!!!!!!!!!!!!!!..............See Mels note below.

Al,

I'm restoring my 1966 Porsche 912 (4 cylinder) and was considering a Pertronix unit they advertise for the 912. I was talking to a guy that put one in his 1986 Porsche 911 (6 cylinder). He said he had nothing but trouble with the module and went back to the original points set up after the third one went out. I don't know if there is a difference between the 4 and 6 cylinder versions, or if they have improved it since then.

David Serrano

[Corley]

Originally Posted by briphaeton

No additional control box, it' all in the distributor. It's magnetic like the pertronix unit.
There are three wires, the blue goes to the negative side of the coil and the black with the yellow tracer go to the positive side of the coil and last a ground (one without a eyelet).
Of coarse it has to be 12 volt negative ground.

Thanks for that information. On the rockauto site I see they list a ballast resister, and only points style dizzies, but I was able to find the electronic one on ebay and ordered from there. The question is: Did Honda use a ballast resister with their coil on the electronic dizzies? Of course the coil may be something special for this application, and not the same as a points ignition coil, I'll look at sourcing that next. Cap and rotor look the same for both electronic and points in the pictures, I'll try to confirm that as well. Electronic dizzy on Ebay was $24.95, free shipping. Machining changes needed should be trivial.

[briphaeton]

I think ballast resisters are only for 12 volt ignition system with points (either in line or built into the coil). You wouldn't need ballast resister on a 6 volt car because it's already 6 volts. The coil, cap and rotor, I use was the one from the wrecker from the Honda the distributor came from.

[Corley]

Originally Posted by briphaeton

I think ballast resisters are only for 12 volt ignition system with points (either in line or built into the coil). You wouldn't need ballast resister on a 6 volt car because it's already 6 volts. The coil, cap and rotor, I use was the one from the wrecker from the Honda the distributor came from.

So in your case, 12v with electronic dizzy, you did not need the ballast then. That will also be what I'm planning on doing. Thanks again for all this information... Can't wait to try the vacuum advance.


Different subject:
Here is a good reason to go with 12v systems: With 2-12v batteries, and a good set of jumper cables, one can do quite effective welds on the side of the road, using 6013 0r 7014 rod. It would take 4-6v batteries to do this, and finding 3 other guys willing to loan you their batteries and jumpers for this purpose would be much harder than finding just one other person to loan you a 12v battery. I've actually done this back in my sand buggy days, and with great success. (He says with half a tongue in cheek.)

[AL in NY]

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California Travieso: like the note from Mel said, the newer Pertronix Ignitor II is much better than the original. But you still have to follow the installation instructions and run a ground wire from the negative side of the Ignitor module to battery ground. If you do that, I'll guarantee you'll have NO trouble with it.

[California Travieso]

Originally Posted by AL in NY

California Travieso: like the note from Mel said, the newer Pertronix Ignitor II is much better than the original. But you still have to follow the installation instructions and run a ground wire from the negative side of the Ignitor module to battery ground. If you do that, I'll guarantee you'll have NO trouble with it.

Thank Al, Its good to know they have improved. I'll check into it.

David Serrano

[katy]

briphaeton, could you do resistance check on the primary of that Honda coil that you're using to let Corely know for sure what type of coil to use. 1.5 or 3 ohm.

[briphaeton]

I get between 2 - 2.5 ohms on the primary circuit (which is what I found correct for 12v in Les andrews blue book). Be sure you disconnect the distributor before testing or it will blow out. I found this online---
In simple terms coils are rated by their primary resistance—less resistance in the primary windings of the coil allows more current to flow, which makes a stronger magnetic field. When the points open (or the electronic device that controls current flow shuts off) the magnetic field collapses and makes a spark in the secondary windings. It stands to reason that more current in the primary is a good thing, however the current flow is limited by the ability of the points, or the electronics in place, to handle it. Too little resistance means too much current flow, which can burn up points and damage electronic components.
For specific recommendations we contacted our pal, Don Lindfors, at PerTronix to get the straight story on coils. As he explains, PerTronix offers three oil-filled, canister-style coils and they are identified by the ignition system they are suited for:
The Flame Thrower 40,000V coils have internal resistance rated at 1.5 or 3.0 ohms. The 3.0-ohm coil should be used on PerTronix Ignitors installed on four- and six-cylinder engines while 1.5-ohm coils should be used for eight-cylinder applications. These coils can be used on virtually any inductive (non-capacitive discharge) ignition system.
Flame Thrower II coils have lower resistance, 0.6 ohms for use with Ignitor II ignition systems as well as many other high-energy ignitions. The low resistance helps to produce up to 45,000 V. This higher voltage allows larger spark plug gaps for added power and better fuel economy. Flame-Thrower III coils were developed for use with the new Ignitor III electronics. The extremely low resistance of 0.32 ohms results in 45,000 V and a coil that charges to peak, current typically 30-70 percent faster the other coils. It should be noted that these coils are compatible with Ignitor III electronics only.

[duke36]

Originally Posted by briphaeton

I get between 2 - 2.5 ohms on the primary circuit (which is what I found correct for 12v in Les andrews blue book). Be sure you disconnect the distributor before testing or it will blow out. I found this online---
In simple terms coils are rated by their primary resistance—less resistance in the primary windings of the coil allows more current to flow, which makes a stronger magnetic field. When the points open (or the electronic device that controls current flow shuts off) the magnetic field collapses and makes a spark in the secondary windings. It stands to reason that more current in the primary is a good thing, however the current flow is limited by the ability of the points, or the electronics in place, to handle it. Too little resistance means too much current flow, which can burn up points and damage electronic components.
For specific recommendations we contacted our pal, Don Lindfors, at PerTronix to get the straight story on coils. As he explains, PerTronix offers three oil-filled, canister-style coils and they are identified by the ignition system they are suited for:
The Flame Thrower 40,000V coils have internal resistance rated at 1.5 or 3.0 ohms. The 3.0-ohm coil should be used on PerTronix Ignitors installed on four- and six-cylinder engines while 1.5-ohm coils should be used for eight-cylinder applications. These coils can be used on virtually any inductive (non-capacitive discharge) ignition system.
Flame Thrower II coils have lower resistance, 0.6 ohms for use with Ignitor II ignition systems as well as many other high-energy ignitions. The low resistance helps to produce up to 45,000 V. This higher voltage allows larger spark plug gaps for added power and better fuel economy. Flame-Thrower III coils were developed for use with the new Ignitor III electronics. The extremely low resistance of 0.32 ohms results in 45,000 V and a coil that charges to peak, current typically 30-70 percent faster the other coils. It should be noted that these coils are compatible with Ignitor III electronics only.

Disconnect both wires to coil ? what " blows out" ,the coil, the module?

[briphaeton]

Module, just like the pertronic if you connect them up wrong.

[Kahuna]

With a Pertronix module, if you hook it up wrong & are watching it when turned on, you will see a small puff of smoke. It's now done, put a fork in it

[Corley]

Originally Posted by briphaeton

I get between 2 - 2.5 ohms on the primary circuit (which is what I found correct for 12v in Les andrews blue book). Be sure you disconnect the distributor before testing or it will blow out.

I seriously doubt that the low voltage/current supplied by your VOM would blow the module out, if left connected to the coil, however you are still correct in saying the coil needs to be disconnected prior to metering. The reason being that you will likely get an erronious reading if the module or source are still in the circuit. And of course, if the coil had any voltage on it, you'd likely burn up your meter if it we're on an ohms setting. (It's pretty much always necessary to remove electrical components from their circuit when measuring resistance for accurate readings and protection of your instruments.)

Now when using your finger to check for voltage, I recommend licking it first.��(only kidding, of course, don't use your finger to check voltages.)


By the way, thanks for all the Honda vacuum advance information! I really appreciate your taking the time to post about it.

[katy]

It's now done, put a fork in it

Good one

[FRANK PKNY]

I think part of the problem with electronic ignitions is theydon't like dirty voltage. You really should run a alternator when using them. Generators make what's called dirty voltage. ( spikes up and down). I've been running them for years problem free. They do require the correct voltage getting to them, a 12v system needs around a minimum of about 9+ or - volts or it will not fire. I have a L S system in my 31 coupe with their coil .

[barkleydave]

I am tired of hearing about Electronic Ignition failure. It is not the fault of the product in 99 percent of the cases. I have several cars running more than 40,000 miles on orig. Pertronix ignition modules. NO FAILURES


1. Proper coil 1.4 Ohm 6 volt or 1.4 Ohm with external ballast resistor 12 VOLT
2. 3.0 coil no resistor 12 vOLT
3. No pop out switch.
4. Wire through on off switch DIRECTLY TO BATTERY! dO NOT RUN THROUGH A GEN. CIRCUIT IT IS VERY DIRTY POWER.
5. Clean Ground if needed add an additional ground from Dist.


That's it folks they work!
Every tour I have ever been on I have never seen a module failure but cannot begin to count the oil point system failures on tours. I carry a spare module one has been in the tool box for 18 years!


Use what you like but do not bash a product when they work but or installed incorrectly.


There I feel better.. LOL

[Pete F]

In the last 10 years I have installed probably over 100 plus Pertronix units , out of the 100 plus units one failed after 10 miles and one failed on the distributor machine when I was setting up the curve.
Both were positive ground units.
Here is what I tell my clients , I will only install a Pertronix unit with a Pertronix coil and I only use radio resistant wires and we have no problem.
And to all my anti electronic buddy’s I ask what’s under the hood of your daily driver.
When all the major car builders go back to points I maybe will change my mind.
Electronic ignition gives you a hotter spark which allows you to run a leaner mixture which allows the engine to run better and pollute the oil Less.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[steve s]

Originally Posted by Pete F

In the last 10 years I have installed probably over 100 plus Pertronix units , out of the 100 plus units one failed after 10 miles and one failed on the distributor machine when I was setting up the curve.
Both were positive ground units.
Here is what I tell my clients , I will only install a Pertronix unit with a Pertronix coil and I only use radio resistant wires and we have no problem.
And to all my anti electronic buddy’s I ask what’s under the hood of your daily driver.
When all the major car builders go back to points I maybe will change my mind.
Electronic ignition gives you a hotter spark which allows you to run a leaner mixture which allows the engine to run better and pollute the oil Less.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pete,
Where do you get your radio resistant wires? Can you tell by looking if the ones in the picture are them?

Thanks!

Steve

[Pete F]

Pertronix has radio resistant wire by the foot or universal.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Benson]

In the literature for the Zipper it states that solid brass strips for plugs are included.

BUT it also says that the wire from coil to dist cap is a special radio suppression wire.

I wonder if Zipper has some kind of radio suppression circuit built into the dist body maybe?


Quote from description:

""Your Zipper comes with a high energy heavy duty coil, a radio suppression coil wire, a set of 4 brass spark plug connectors, a dedicated ignition wire, and of course, complete installation instructions, a trouble-shooting guide, and a 30-month warranty.""

Here is URL: http://www.fsignitions.com/FSI_ZIPPER.html

According to this the wires to plugs used are solid brass and ONLY coil to dist wire is radio suppression.

[Benson]

On 3 or 4 occasions I have seen a problem using FS ignitions (the one with module installed in stock distributor) where if you crank engine the starter kicks back and engine cranks slowly.

If we turned off ignition key it cranked normally.

This problem in all occasions was fixed by replacing solid core wires with radio suppression wiring.

According to Zipper info maybe only the coil to dist wire needs to be Radio suppression wiring.

I will have to test to see if this is true with the slow cranking problem.

[barkleydave]

We have two Model A's using the Pertronix/Redmund units. One is C. advance with modern cap and suppression wires. Been in a 31 since 1997 no issues


The other is in a 29 stock dist. 12 V. Neg. Gnd. with Alternator, with Pertronix module. Properly installed with strap wires and a 6 Volt coil with external ballast resistor. No issue runs great. Lots of noise if using a radio or CB. (I do not use either)


MG 1957 Pertronix unit module been in service since 2000 so far no issues. It is running 12V Pos. Ground.


Again whatever makes you happy go for it. One advantage of electronic that is not mentioned is timing DOES NOT CHANGE! No wear since nothing touching cam. No point slip or arching or pitting. Timing once set stays rock solid.


I do wish that FSI would make their products direct on line. It can be difficult to reach them at times for a phone order and prefer not to give CC info on the phone.


Time for them to get up to speed for on line ordering!

[CarlG]

I have the Zipper installed on my engine. I also bought the dist cap from Reiner's Corner that looks like the original, but uses modern type plug wires. But I used the coil wire that came with the Zipper. Kinda the best of both worlds.

[Benson]

AL,

Thanks for posting this!


See email from 2008 from Mel Moore in Post #12 above from AL in NY.

I saw that in this email that Mel was going to use the Ignitor II module.

I was mainly interested in the "Leave key on and module turns off feature and does not burn up module.

I got this email TODAY from JD when I asked if Ignitor II was available.

Quote from JD Hanks at FSI.

We do not sell or recommend the Ignitor II. After excessive testing we have determined the Ignitor II Module will not work with Model A's.

Regards,

J.D. Hanks



FIRST STREET IGNITIONS / FS IGNITIONS
220 N 1ST STREET
PONCA CITY OK 74601
PH:580-762-8322

FAX:580-762-8322

WWW.FSIGNITIONS.COM

[Jordan]

I have ran one for 7 years and I wouldn't change it for the world. My brother has one on two of his cars.

[katy]

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My brother has one on two of his cars.

Now that's a good trick.

[Corley]

Briphaeton, private email sent... Looking for info on which wire goes where on the ignition control module of the Honda dizzy.

[Benson]

Originally Posted by Jordan

I have ran one for 7 years and I wouldn't change it for the world. My brother has one on two of his cars.

Jordan,

Are you saying that you have been running the upgraded Ignitor II modules on Model As?

If so are you guys using alternators?

I wonder if JD's problem is that he tested with a stock generator with all of the DC spikes and brush noise that they make.


Thanks
Benson
__________________

[briphaeton]

I've never had to replace a module and looking at one (in a distributor) I don't see a negative or positive side of the module. My were wrecking yard distributors and coils that came with the wires connected. The black with the yellow tracer is the longer of the two, They come through the side close to the bottom of the cap. The blue wire go to the negative side of the coil. Hope this helps. I never gave these that much thought, just did a little machining and ran them.

[AL in NY]

Benson, I have been running the Ignitor II module in my Zipper since 2008 and have put almost 15,000 miles on my truck without a problem. I have left the ignition switch on for prolonged periods a couple of times without a problem. So as far as I'm concerned, the Ignitor II works great in a Model A.

[Benson]

Originally Posted by AL in NY

Benson, I have been running the Ignitor II module in my Zipper since 2008 and have put almost 15,000 miles on my truck without a problem. I have left the ignition switch on for prolonged periods a couple of times without a problem. So as far as I'm concerned, the Ignitor II works great in a Model A.

Thank you,
AL

I was discouraged after hearing from JD at FSI but I was getting ready to try an Ignitor II anyway. Your experience "cinches it!

[updraught]

Noticed this on the ignitor I I web page

"You cannot use solid core (typically copper) spark plug wires with this product. Solid core wires do not suppress electro magnetic interference (EMI) which will interfere with electronics in this product. A suppression style or spiral wound spark plug wires must be used."

http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor2/default.aspx

[Benson]

Originally Posted by updraught

Noticed this on the ignitor I I web page

"You cannot use solid core (typically copper) spark plug wires with this product. Solid core wires do not suppress electro magnetic interference (EMI) which will interfere with electronics in this product. A suppression style or spiral wound spark plug wires must be used."



http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor2/default.aspx

Yes same is true for Ignitor I modules

ADDITIONAL INFO: (Unless a radio suppression coil to distributor wire is used on Zipper as stated in literature.)

Here is a post from 2014 about a problem I had several years prior to 2014.


05-18-2014, 06:53 PM #16
Benson
Senior Member

Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,487
Default Re: FS ignitions hard starting
I have seen the slow starter problem with Electronic ignition 4 or 5 times.

1. Turn off key and crank ... if cranks faster then replace the coil to distributor wire with a carbon RESISTOR wire.

2. Try again. If still slow cranking then replace distributor body and cap with modern cap and carbon wires to the plugs. Leave carbon coil wire in place.

The electronic ignition module is picking up a random triggers from the high voltage or the starter brushes ... which causes erratic triggering of the module. The ones I saw were firing randomly while starter was cranking.

Maybe the module is picking up triggers from the sparks from the starter brushes.

Carbon wires reduce the random triggering while starter is cranking...

I do not know why this happens only on some engines ... maybe some starters are making more sparks.
Last edited by Benson; 05-18-2014 at 07:00 PM.

I do not remember the exact year.

Engine cranked normally until ignition switch was turned on ... Then cranking speed slowed to "almost a crawl".

Fully charged Optima batteries were used ... We replaced the first Optima with a new one... same problem. checked for 6 volt cables, added ground to starter bolt from frame etc.

We fixed it by removing solid wires and using RFI suppression wires.

More here:


04-11-2018, 10:20 PM #40
Benson
Senior Member

Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,487
Default Re: FS electronic ignition
In the literature for the Zipper it states that solid brass strips for plugs are included.

BUT it also says that the wire from coil to dist cap is a special radio suppression wire.

I wonder if Zipper has some kind of radio suppression circuit built into the dist body maybe?


Quote from description:

""Your Zipper comes with a high energy heavy duty coil, a radio suppression coil wire, a set of 4 brass spark plug connectors, a dedicated ignition wire, and of course, complete installation instructions, a trouble-shooting guide, and a 30-month warranty.""

Here is URL: http://www.fsignitions.com/FSI_ZIPPER.html

According to this the wires to plugs used are solid brass and ONLY coil to dist wire is radio suppression.
Last edited by Benson; 04-12-2018 at 06:19 AM. Reason: Corrections and additional info

More here:

04-11-2018, 10:43 PM #41
Benson
Senior Member

Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,487
Default Re: FS electronic ignition
On 3 or 4 occasions I have seen a problem using FS ignitions (the one with module installed in stock distributor) where if you crank engine the starter kicks back and engine cranks slowly.

If we turned off ignition key it cranked normally.

This problem in all occasions was fixed by replacing solid core wires with radio suppression wiring.

According to Zipper info maybe only the coil to dist wire needs to be Radio suppression wiring.

I will have to test to see if this is true with the slow cranking problem.
Last edited by Benson; 04-12-2018 at 09:48 AM.

[katy]

Looking for info on which wire goes where on the ignition control module of the Honda dizzy.

Post # 21 says:

Originally Posted by briphaeton

No additional control box, it' all in the distributor. It's magnetic like the pertronix unit.
There are three wires, the blue goes to the negative side of the coil and the black with the yellow tracer go to the positive side of the coil and last a ground (one without a eyelet).
Of coarse it has to be 12 volt negative ground.

Corely, if/when you get it working, how about an update on it.