Dyna Beads with Filtered Valve Cores

[Cape Codder]

Just wanted to warn anyone who is deciding to install Dyna Beads in your tires. I bought "filtered valve cores" sold by Dyna Beads. I installed the Dyna Beads and then the "filtered valve cores" only to find that they are TOO LONG for the tubes sold with the steel stem valve installed by most venders. So in my infinite wisdom I decided to try and pull the core back out and you guessed it, lower half of stem snapped. So now I have a piece in the valve stem and no way to get it out. I have since found out the REGULAR valve cores are good.

Hope this helps anyone that is deciding whether to install Dyna Beads. My suggestion is NOT to buy the 'filtered valve cores" as you could be like me, buying another tube.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Save the tube and install a steel stem.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Save the tube and install a steel stem.

T.W, Do some folks REALLY cut off the valve stems & put in the metal stems? I'd be AFRAID to even get out of the neighborhood with one in Vermin's tube! Bill W.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Yes, it's been done and I have 4 to do one of these days.

[H. L. Chauvin]

Hi Cape,

First, thanks for taking the time to post this warning -- not many are humble enough to report one's bad experiences in order to help others.

I would imagine that most Model A vendors have a very competent technician who can advise in detail how to properly cut off rubber tube stems & how to properly install their Model A metal valve stems in tubes.

You just don't grab a knife & whack off the rubber stem at 90 degrees like cutting a small branch off of a small tree -- some technicians recommend their special way to accomplish this rubber stem removal & metal stem installation to insure a proper air seal.

From past experience, one person who can assist in this particular successful installation would be to call & ask for Mr. Walt Bratton at Bratton's -- he can advise how he has done this successfully for "show" cars -- or as mentioned above, your favorite vendor may be able to likewise render these same details.

Hope this helps not to discard your valuable tubes -- & keep them in an opaque box out of the ultraviolet rays of the sun for use on another day.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

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Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

T.W, Do some folks REALLY cut off the valve stems & put in the metal stems? I'd be AFRAID to even get out of the neighborhood with one in Vermin's tube! Bill W.

I guess this is one of those things where I just shake my head in disbelief!!



Contrary to what some think, metal valve stems are used on many Model-As that are NOT show cars. IMO they are the only safe stem to use in a tube. The reason is the Model-A rim was not designed for rubber stem use.

2nd, metal stems were always installed in rubber tubes, so why is it some 80 years later we are questioning whether we should be installing metal stems? I tell everyone that asks how they should be running metal stems. The first comment I hear is "They are expensive!" My first thought is So is a ruined tire, and my first response is Buy them used off of eBay or at a swap meet if you do not want to pay new prices but remember, once you buy them, they are forever. The 2nd comment I generally hear is I don't know how to installed them. Searching the archives here will give several threads on great tutorials. I think most people are not even willing to try.

[newshirt]

This is the tutorial I followed to convert my rubber stems to metal. (link below) It worked great... simple and easy... now I have five authentic looking and robust value stems... no leaks... no adhesive.

This summer, we stayed at a KOA on tour, and a guy asked what those "large metal things were on my wheels."

http://www.sheepisland.com/cars/tech/metal_stems/

[Mike in NRN IN]

I had a recent issue after replacing my inner tubes (rubber valve stems.)

This is a long message - so bear with me.

To get the Dyna Beads into the tube, I used a bamboo 'skewer' to open the valve at the base of the inner tube. It appears that the inner tube manufacture had a lot of 'goop' in the base of the valve and that prevented the beads from flowing through. I also added a bit of 'talc' to the beads to help flow into the tubes.

When I got the beads in, and the tubes/tires on the rims, I filled the inner tube a couple times to 'seat' the tube/tire.

After that I used the Schrader valve that came with the Dyna Beads and filled the tube to proper pressure.

What troubled me was that after a 120 mile trip, I noticed that the tires were flattened and when I checked the pressure, three tires were between 15 and 20 lbs. and one tire was at 32 lbs.

When I re-filled the tubes, they held pressure and have not dropped (it's been several months now.) I took the car for a quick run when all the tires were at the proper inflation pressure and when I came back and the fourth tire was down to 19 lbs.

SO here's what I think happened.

When I seated the tubes/tires, the rubber valve stem seated against the rim creating a sealed air chamber between the tube and the rim. This air was 'released' over time and allowed the pressure to drop.

After reading and viewing the metal stem installation link, I think it might be a good reason to go with the metal stems! These appear to have enough gap between the rim and valve stem to allow the air to escape.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

...Contrary to what some think, metal valve stems are used on many Model-As that are NOT show cars. IMO they are the only safe stem to use in a tube. The reason is the Model-A rim was not designed for rubber stem use.

2nd, metal stems were always installed in rubber tubes, so why is it some 80 years later we are questioning whether we should be installing metal stems? I tell everyone that asks how they should be running metal stems. The first comment I hear is "They are expensive!" My first thought is So is a ruined tire, and my first response is Buy them used off of eBay or at a swap meet if you do not want to pay new prices but remember, once you buy them, they are forever. The 2nd comment I generally hear is I don't know how to installed them. Searching the archives here will give several threads on great tutorials. I think most people are not even willing to try.

What I have always wondered about was: "Why can't you buy tubes with metal stems already installed?"

[newshirt]

Originally Posted by CarlG

What I have always wondered about was: "Why can't you buy tubes with metal stems already installed?"

You can.

http://www.brattons.com/uploads/imag...arge/02210.jpg

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by CarlG

What I have always wondered about was: "Why can't you buy tubes with metal stems already installed?"

Yes, as Ray showed, you can. Snyders used to offer them too but I think it boils down to a cost to do the conversion. It really is not that difficult however it is time consuming.

One trick that I learned from Will Cronkrite is to install the metal stems and then air up each tube to 30 lbs and stack them in a corner. After a few weeks, go back and check them. If they are still inflated, they are ready to install. If one is flat, then work on the stem seal and try it again. That way you know when they are ready to install.

[CarlG]

Ray, Brent, Thanks for setting me straight. I might just have to get a set to put in the tires I am mounting this winter. I was planning on re-using the tubes I already have, but this might be the better way to go.

[Art Bjornestad]

I have installed quite a few metal stems with great results. I use a small amount of pliobond around the base of the stem and allow it to dry. Then I insert the stem and tighten it up.

This may not be necessary but it works for me.

[Cape Codder]

I think that several of you did not understand my original post.
I bought tubes with METAL valve stems installed.
I was just trying to put out some information I thought might be helpful for some one else, which is that the "filtered valve cores" that Dyna Beads sells are TOO LONG for the METAL valve stems.

Good news is that I was able to get the valve stem out of the tube and the broken piece removed. I now just have to get the valve stem BACK into the tube but with the help given by NEWSHIRT and the plier trick it should not be an issue.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

I think that several of you did not understand my original post.
I bought tubes with METAL valve stems installed.
I was just trying to put out some information I thought might be helpful for some one else, which is that the "filtered valve cores" that Dyna Beads sells are TOO LONG for the METAL valve stems.

Good news is that I was able to get the valve stem out of the tube and the broken piece removed. I now just have to get the valve stem BACK into the tube but with the help given by NEWSHIRT and the plier trick it should not be an issue.

Well, I apologize as I never read where you said this was a metal stem, ...and then when you said "the lower half of the stem snapped", that is usually what happens to rubber stems that break off from the tube. I have never known metal stems to break like that.

[1931 flamingo]

Brent: I read it that the CORE broke in the stem, not the stem.
Maybe Cape Codder can clarify OR post a picture??
Paul in CT

[H. L. Chauvin]

FWIW:

1. According to the previous owner, my 1930 Town Sedan was driven about 200 miles in the past 30 years with its five (5), 30 year old Goodyear tires, (made in Canada), which actually show no noticeable wear; however, lately after driving a few miles, the accompanying 30 year old Goodyear tubes, (also made in Canada), started slow leaking, one by one, with hairline cracks where the rubber tube stem meets the tube at the steel rim.

2. After speaking to Mr. Bratton about the many former Forum messages of how many new foreign made tubes these days are junk, he reported that he had his latest tubes special made from pure rubber in lieu of former recycled rubber, so I bought five (5) of his new tubes with new rubber stems attached.

3. What I immediately noticed with his new tubes was that in lieu of having these flimsy soft rubber stems found on many new tubes & also found on many much older U.S. Made vintage tubes, Mr. Bratton's new tubes have extra heavy hard rubber stems that have "RADIAL" written on the side of each stem.

4. Appears that these new tube stems are similar to the more durable tough Radial Tire stems found on new modern cars.

5. So far I have installed three(3) new tubes with no leaks & may finish the installing the other two (2) tomorrow.

6. Rather than discard these five (5) old tubes, I intend to cut the rubber stems off of the five (5) 30 year old Goodyear tubes, (which look great except for the stems), & get five (5) new metal stems to provide on these tubes for installing on my 1930 Coupe.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

T.W, Do some folks REALLY cut off the valve stems & put in the metal stems? I'd be AFRAID to even get out of the neighborhood with one in Vermin's tube! Bill W.

No, Brent, I'm NOT nieve about metal stems,
I wouldn't be spooky with tubes that were MADE for metal stems, but where rubber stems were cut off & metal stems installed, sounds "RISKY" TO ME.
I don't remember Chief ever using metal stems, or even discussing them. Maybe it was due to the economy of that time & you just used what you could get or what you could afford.
Chief had a service station in Oklahoma in '44 & '45 & I don't remember him ever dealing with metal stems. I DO remember him Vulcanizing flared rubber stems onto old tubes, & thinking back, THAT WAS SPOOKY!! Because of tire rationing, folks used WHATEVER they had. Whenever Chief had to use a BIG BOOT to cover a hole in a tire, he would put a second BIG BOOT, 180 degrees apart, to preserve the "TIRE BALANCE"
I remember this crap as Chief did a LOTS of tire repairs & I was his "PATCH MAN" Bill W.

[spdway1]

Codder,
What did you find with your wobble from an earlier post?
Don Jr.

[Cape Codder]

BRENT - I should have said the lower half of the "valve core" and not valve stem. My third thumb must of gotten the way when I typed that.

SPDWAY1 - Unfortunately, I have not worked on the front end wobble. I do have a list of things suggested by the barn members and when I get it completed I will report back to the barn.

NEWSHIRT - I used your tutorial that you offered in that I used the snap ring pliers to get the metal valve stem back into the tube after removing the lower part of the valve core. Inflated tube and soaked it with some water looking for bubbles but found none. Will let them sit now as I have to do the wheels.

Thanks to all that made comments to this thread.
Cape Codder