Flaathead Ted brake kit install

[carguybill]

I have purchased the brake upgrade kit for my '34 from Flathead Ted and I need some decent instructions on how to install the kit.

Instructions were supplied with the kit but the pictures are not clear and the instructions aren't either. It seems that the instructions would be OK for someone who has done the install a times before.

Here is a photo that I took of the pieces in the kit. It's not even clear to me where the various pieces go.

I sure would appreciate some guidance from folks who have done this install. Thank You.

Breakl Parts Flathead Ted.jpg

[38bill]

I dont know anything about them but did you check out Youtube?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2EjRe411l3M

[Graham Freeman]

Ted should be able to reply to your post directly on this one as he is a regular on this site.

[Lawrie]

On some of my old teds kits there is a NZ english and a USA english version
Lawrie

[FlatheadTed]

Ok fire away .I am thinking of just going to pictures might be easer (1) remove the front wheels and hubs attached (front ) or all four ,remove the shoes ,screw the top adjuster in until you push out the dust cap and bolt that's on the inner backing plate ,remove the lower Anchor bolt and washer ( the nut is below the king pin on the out side )take the new anchor bolt and place your old slotted wedge over it (check this wedge for any excessive grooves were the rollers go ),then the black stamping plate flat side down curved side up ,fit these back into your backing plate a little over finger tight ,Fit the upper new adjuster bolt but first run the thread cleaner grub screw through the hole ,remove the rollers from your shoes lower end ,replace them with the new pins and one of your rollers facing out ,shoes should be kept in the same location check them for ware and lining type must be a soft material ,rollers should be firm and not wobble about also the adjuster link the same .go as far as you can and ask ,let us know ,Ted

[FlatheadTed]

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F ,and B to denote front or back ,We need to look at brake rods angles etc also .

In your picture from left to right you have the 2 Anchor bolts F,then 4 adjuster bolts,2-F. & 2 B. then 4 shoe pin combos ,F ,then next you have 4 square pins gold & silver B,then the 2 black stampings F,then one thread cleaner F&B ,Bottom row you have 4 New wedges F&B and Lock/jam nuts F&B

[FlatheadTed]

The washer on the Anker bolt is replaced by the black stamping ,fit the two lower springs but leave out the top ones ,set this up to check movement at the top links ,tighten up the Anker bolt at this stage just over finger tight ,say 5lb

[carguybill]

Ok guys, thanks. I appreciate your help.

Armed with this information I will proceed until I reach a baffle point, then I'll be back.

I think it might help if I understood the concept of how this modification is going to improve my breaking.

[AnthonyG]

You got all the Info from the horses mouth �� Flathead Ted himself. I'm sure he'll explain but looks like the leverage points change giving more mechanical advantage.

[FlatheadTed]

This is a floating self energizing system were one shoe pushes the other into the drum and the shoe can find its own centre The Model A to 34 backing plate has a track that the shoe roller pin rides on restricting down ward movement this develops a groove that the shoe pin drops into ,the stamping plate does away with this so the shoe can move up or down ,At the adjuster end instead of a cone you now have a floating wedge so one shoe pushes the other ,its a kind of self adjustment .when fitting the top ,if the shoe links are repoped you may need to polish the under side of them for free movement ,that's in the instructions ,

[Kube]

Originally Posted by carguybill

Ok guys, thanks. I appreciate your help.

Armed with this information I will proceed until I reach a baffle point, then I'll be back.

I think it might help if I understood the concept of how this modification is going to improve my breaking.

I can't quite explain "how" it will improve your BRAKING, but it does make a huge difference! You will be pleased...this kit and subsequent installation is well worth the money and effort.

[Jack E/NJ]

>>>This is a floating self energizing system were one shoe pushes the other into the drum and the shoe can find its own centre>>>

So does it sorta work like a Bendix where the shoes can move on the ends opposite the cable actuator? Jack E/NJ

[FlatheadTed]

Yes like Bendix

[alanwoodieman]

Kube, I just KNOW that they work, put set in Model A, put a set in a 36 Ford. could slide all four wheels on both cars after doing this!!

[Jack E/NJ]

FlatheadTed>>>Yes like Bendix>>>

OK. What about a kit for Lockheed hydraulics? When I was a clueless youngster, I installed them on my 38 thinking they'd stop quicker & straighter. I was only half right. 8^( Jack E/NJ

[FlatheadTed]

You mean like 39 hydraulics ,I have the prototypes but never went any further ,since the Lincolns are available ,Should I revive the development ,Ted

[JSeery]

Assuming they would be a lot less expensive than a Bendix conversion, you would think there would be a market.

[Mafman]

I'd be interested in them for my '39, Ted!

[Jack E/NJ]

Originally Posted by FlatheadTed

You mean like 39 hydraulics ,I have the prototypes but never went any further ,since the Lincolns are available ,Should I revive the development ,Ted

Yes. In 1960, I swapped out my 38 plates, drums, wheels & all with a $25 wrecked 48 donor just to get its hydraulics, oblivious to the differences between a Lockheed and a Bendix. I regretted the swap from the getgo because stoppability seemed only marginally better than the mechanicals.

I now regret the swap even more because your kit came too late --- my 38 mechanicals are long gone --- and I'm stuck with the Lockheeds. So, yes, you could make me feel better with floaters for Lockheeds. Perhaps enough others might also be interested to make it worth your while.

Jack E/NJ

[FlatheadTed]

OK I pulled out the experimental backing plate ,I will see what I can do between doing steering boxes Ted