40-41 pickup questions: door glass and body bolts

[hotrodA]

Hi,
Been steady gathering up pieces for my 40-41 pickup and came up a couple of stumpers:

1. Do the cab mount bolts mount with the small coil spring on the INSIDE of the frame rail or in the cab, with the wood between the cab mount and frame? This lets the cab move?

2. My cab is 40-41, but has 42(?) Doors with metal frame around the glass. Is this glass smaller than the 40-41 glass to allow for the width of the metal frame?

Thanks!!

[Kube]

[QUOTE=hotrodA;1355123]Hi,
Been steady gathering up pieces for my 40-41 pickup and came up a couple of stumpers:

1. Do the cab mount bolts mount with the small coil spring on the INSIDE of the frame rail or in the cab, with the wood between the cab mount and frame? This lets the cab move?

Springs are located to the inside of the frame rail.
Wood is between the body and frame.

[hotrodA]

Thanks, Kube! That was my perception.

Now, how 'bout those windows?

[42 1/2ton]

Originally Posted by hotrodA

Thanks, Kube! That was my perception.

Now, how 'bout those windows?

The windows with the metal band are from a post war pickup. 42 door windows are like 41 windows and have no metal around the edge. I have some of each and just went to the shop to check. The windows with metal edges are smaller to allow for the metal band. Hope this is what you needed.

Ed

[scooder]

I've never tried it but I guess you could assemble the post war doors without the frames and use 40-42 glass, that would look better. May have different fuzzy stuff?
If your doors ain't on the cab yet, or you haven't sorted dove tails, the 40-41 uses different size dovetails. Get the stuff that fits the cab, and fit there partners on the doors.
Martin.

[hotrodA]

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Thanks guys! Great info.

So my doors are actually 47? Well, they fit nice in the opening and close nice, so I think that I will leave well enough alone, and just deal with the glass size.

[Kube]

A friend of mine had installed the "banded" glass in an extremely nice '40 PU he had done.

[TJ]

The original cab wood on my 41 had a thin piece of rubber belting type material between the frame and the wood. Use the cab wood that is dovetailed to hold the pieces together. Not sure who else may sell it , but I got mine from Northern Classic Trucks. Not all cabs are created equal, so you may do some slight trimming to get the cap to fit down in the slots in the wood.

[42 1/2ton]

hotrod, I think scooder is correct that you can use either style of door glass. The outside measurement is the same on the windows with or without the metal band.
Ed

[Karl Wescott]

Re the cab bolts:

#1 body bolts to frame. Spring on top.
#2 body bolts through front hole of wood block.
iirc springs were on bolts 1 and 4 only.
Thin rubber pads (appx 1-1/2" x 3") on top of frame at each bolt location

[willowbilly3]

If you have the newer doors, someone must have modified the dovetails somehow, or left them off. I hung a set of 47 truck doors on my 40 panel and had to deal with it as the doors wouldn't close You cant just swap the dovetails because the door profile in that area is different. I had to whittle up those 40 dovetails quite a bit to make them fit.

[Scott H in Wheaton]

Originally Posted by Karl Wescott

Re the cab bolts:

#1 body bolts to frame. Spring on top.
#2 body bolts through front hole of wood block.
iirc springs were on bolts 1 and 4 only.
Thin rubber pads (appx 1-1/2" x 3") on top of frame at each bolt location

On disassembling my truck, on the floorboard of the cab was the bolt head. Inside the frame rail under the truck was the spring, a washer, a castellated nut, and a cotter pin.

[Cecil/WV]

Originally Posted by Scott H in Wheaton

On disassembling my truck, on the floorboard of the cab was the bolt head. Inside the frame rail under the truck was the spring, a washer, a castellated nut, and a cotter pin.

That is the same on my '40. It also had a thin strip of belting the whole length of the cab between the wood and the frame.

[TJ]

Originally Posted by Cecil/WV

That is the same on my '40. It also had a thin strip of belting the whole length of the cab between the wood and the frame.

Mine too on the bolt sequence and . Mine had the original bolts(mine is a later '41) and I also found that the bolt kit being sold is not quite correct. My original rear bolts in the cab were longer than the ones supplied in the kit. The ones in the kit would not allow me to start the castle nut after I put on the spring and washer. I had to use my originals.

[hotrodA]

TJ: where did you get the wrong bolts?

[TJ]

Originally Posted by hotrodA

TJ: where did you get the wrong bolts?

I got them from Roy N. and I brought this to his attention after I got the kit. It was only the long rear bolts that were not long enough. I suspect there may be some difference in the rear of the cab on the later 41's. Originally mine was a 6 cylinder pickup with the deeper front crossmember is how I determined it's the later truck. I have no idea if anyone else has encountered this rear bolt problem or not, but it would be interesting to know.

[Cecil/WV]

Tom, I got my bolts from Roy in 2008, part # T 94-06 and the best I remember, they fit OK.

[hotrodA]

Good info! My truck is a fairly early (1GC-xxxx) 6 cylinder, so I can use that. Thanks!

[TJ]

Originally Posted by Cecil/WV

Tom, I got my bolts from Roy in 2008, part # T 94-06 and the best I remember, they fit OK.

Cecil, I think in most cases Roy's bolt kit is just fine. My original bolts were about 1/2" longer than the bolts in Roy's kit. His bolts would not allow me to get the nut started after I put on the spring and flat washer.

[TJ]

Originally Posted by hotrodA

Good info! My truck is a fairly early (1GC-xxxx) 6 cylinder, so I can use that. Thanks!

Just for info Roy's rear bolts are 5 3/4" long. When you get yours out check the length and compare. Just out of curiosity what side of your gas tank has the outlet line? Mine is on the passenger side rather than the driver's side.