Clutch pedal

[bmodeltman]

Are there different clutch pedals? I'm putting the car together from.parts and the clutch pedal hits the engine mount before it gets to the stop on the shaft collar. The clutch will not disengage. The clutch is new and adjusted fingers to 5/8 from top of.pressure plate. The clutch arm.isnt cracked. It has the correct throw.bearing hub. I have 4 inches of travel till it hits the engine mount. I have the one inch of free play so I only have 3inches of actual pedal pushing pressure plate.. Checked.the pedal with another and it doesn't seem bent. I did search and found something about a later pedal. This is my first A . I'm more familiar with the model T

[bmodeltman]

It is a 30 coupe single disc clutch. It has new pedal shaft and bushings

[J Franklin]

Was the new and old shaft machined the same?

[bmodeltman]

I would say yes. The pin in the bell housing is in line with the pin for the collar. The space between the collar stop and the pedal stop is almost 1/4 from each other when the pedal hits the mount. That would eliminate wear I would think because of not touching it. I must have a mismatch of parts somewhere. Just not familiar with what goes with what.

[Mike Peters]

You might experiment by adjusting the clutch adjusting yoke shorter, thus pushing the pressure plate fingers farther in, and decreasing pedal free play. Just see what happens.

[bmodeltman]

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Is the pedal stop supposed to hit the collar stop before pedal hits the engine mount? Seems to.me it should.

[J Franklin]

Originally Posted by bmodeltman

Is the pedal stop supposed to hit the collar stop before pedal hits the engine mount? Seems to.me it should.

That is why I asked my first question. It should stop on the coller. Check the other side or build it up.

[bmodeltman]

With the pedal depressed the whole way down, what's the measurement between the pedal and engine mount?

[ryanheacox]

I know mine gets close to the engine mount. I'll check the distance this evening. Regardless of the pedal hitting the mount, I would think the clutch should be disengaging with that amount of travel. I would do as Mike suggests and take up some free play by adjusting the yoke and see what happens. You do have all the adjustments correct which is the most confusing part.



There are early and late pedals (forged vs stamped) but I'm pretty sure they are the same dimensionally. My 30 should have stamped pedals but the forged ones work just fine.

[Benson]

You say arm is not cracked.

Have you had someone push and hold down the pedal while you look at the arm under car from several different angles?

Many times the crack closes up and remains unseen if someone is not pushing pedal.

Many folks have been fooled into thinking the arm is fine.

[1931 flamingo]

Is the t/out bearing installed right??
Paul in CT

[Mike Peters]

e: Clutch pedal
You say arm is not cracked.

Have you had someone push and hold down the pedal while you look at the arm under car from several different angles?

Many times the crack closes up and remains unseen if someone is not pushing pedal.

Many folks have been fooled into thinking the arm is fine.
Last edited by Benson; Today at 11:13 AM.



Benson is right. Same thing happened to me last year.
I tried the clutch pedal on a rolling chassis and the pedal will touch the motor mount before it hits the clutch arm stop. Clutch should be long released before it gets anywhere near the frame.

[John S]

Just remove the inspection cover on the bell housing and see how much the release bearing and fork move when the pedal is pushed to the floor. This should tell you whether the pressure plate and disc or clutch linkage is what is causing the no release issue.

[bmodeltman]

This is just the chassis body is off. What I did today was put the brake pedal on also and found with collar on, the clutch pedal was an a little more an inch lower than the brake. The pedals are supposed to be even correct? I took the pin out of the collar and pulled the clutch pedal back to even them up this was done with the linkage off and found the hole in the collar on top is about half a hoIe off towards the rear from the shaft hole. I hooked up the linkage and took all free play out. Now the clutch releases at around 1/4 from engine mount. It engages as soon as I let up on the pedal. With this adjustment the throw out bearing moves around 3/4 inch.

[bmodeltman]

I did check the arm while the clutch was pushed and it didn't see any cracks. When I first started with this issue. I checked to make sure all the fingers touched the bearing evenly. They were perfect. Now I see the top ones aren't touching when the bottom ones are. I think I am going to start with another clutch and a new collar.

[1955cj5]

I don't know if this will apply to your situation, but there are different clutch release shafts. Page 509 of the service bulletins book mentions the two and advises "not to mix them", quoted from the bulletin "as it would be impossible to move the clutch pedal far enough to release the clutch"

One has the holes drilled on centerline, the other is slightly offset.

Here are a couple pictures. "Correct" shaft on left.

[Bob C]

The stops on the pedals, bell housing and collar can be worn also.
Like 1955cj5 mentioned it could be an AA shaft.


Bob

[bmodeltman]

I did put both new shafts in with all new bushings. That not saying they sent me the wrong one. I will check that out. Thank you for the pictures.

[John S]

Even if you installed the wrong shaft, the release bearing should contact the pressure plate fingers squarely all at the same time. I'm really starting to think the pressure plate is at fault causing the little or no release issue.

[bmodeltman]

Today after work I am pulling trans and swapping out the pressure plate. I'm glad I found this issue before had chassis all together.