1955 Club Sedan 302 Radiator Options

[Mad Mux]

Greetings All. I'm a Ford fanatic, for all the wrong reasons, but not much of a mechanic. Just bought a Club Sedan that has a 302 from a mid-80's Mustang GT. The guy installed an aluminum radiator that appears to be form fit for a late 60's Mustang. SBFs must be longer than Y-blocks because the cheapo flex fan is only about 1/4" from the radiator; in fact, it has damaged the rad in the past, messy repair still with pinhole leaks, so I need to replace it, and I'm thinking to replace it with an OE or OE-replacement aluminum rad.

I don't know how the OE radiator mounts, but from the few pics I can find it appears to be entirely inside the engine bay, mounted on the back side of the U-shaped "channel iron" bracket. But that will still be too close to the 302's fan/pulley....so, is there any reason why I cannot or should not mount the radiator "inside" the U-bracket, i.e. reverse the rad bracket "ears" so it sits further forward? Then I could use spacers to get the fan to the right distance (approx. 1"). I would insert rubber pads between the rad and the U-bracket.

The U-bracket opening is 20" wide. Champion makes an aluminum radiator with core 18-3/4" wide, so it would fit. Tank may also fit inside, if not I could mount it so tank rides above the U-bracket.

The alternative is to mount it as stock and run electric fan on front, that would give clearance.....but the inside-the-U-bracket solution just seems so obvious, so why not? I have a couple pics but don't know how to post them. Thanks for any advice!

[BW]

If you can mount it inside the channel and it works go for it.

[darrell]

if the motor was installed correct theres lots of room.there should be a spacer behind the fan get a shorter one

[5851a]

No sure on 55's but believe radiator was moved forward from factory on some 6 cylinder engines.

[Mad Mux]

Thanks. You would think there'd be plenty of room for a "Small" Block Ford...and I can't vouch for whether it was done "correctly" or not, as there are a LOT of other things the previous owner or builder did incorrectly (dipstick tube pulls right out of the hole, he used fuel hose for the ATF lines, etc., etc.). Regardless, I can't push the fan back any closer to the engine or it will contact the main pulley.

[JeffB2]

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If you are going to change the radiator and the fan you can gain almost 4" by using the 1965-69 289-302 "short" water pump and matching harmonic balancer and pulleys. Here is an example. The early "short" pump has the lower hose on the passenger side. 1970 and later "long pumps" are located on the drivers side.

[JeffB2]

Originally Posted by Mad Mux

Thanks. You would think there'd be plenty of room for a "Small" Block Ford...and I can't vouch for whether it was done "correctly" or not, as there are a LOT of other things the previous owner or builder did incorrectly (dipstick tube pulls right out of the hole, he used fuel hose for the ATF lines, etc., etc.). Regardless, I can't push the fan back any closer to the engine or it will contact the main pulley.

Makes me wonder which motor mounts he used look at this link and be sure to read the text below the pictures. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-mounts.41498/ After reading that the gap between the firewall and pass side valve cover should be like this. The Headers are HEDMAN 88400's.

[Mad Mux]

Thanks! That spacing between driver's side valve cover and firewall looks very similar to mine. I'll try to get good pics of the mounts, I'm not familiar with the different types, but these look solid.

I like your suggestions on the short water pump, but maybe for a future reconfig. For now trying to get it driveable with as little mods as possible. Thinking about it more, this engine has a 2-groove crank pulley; water pump and power steering are on the "base" (?) water pump pulley, of course, and then only the outer groove of the 2-groove pulley is used for alternator; inner must have been AC? So I only need 1...if I can get a 1-groove pulley (anybody make one?), swapping would buy me about an inch, which would let the fan clear the pulley, and the radiator by a safe margin. Then I'd have to play with the alternator bracket to line it up, but that should be easy.

Pics attached. Thanks again for the ideas!

[5851a]

This has nothing to do with fan spacing but I believe the outer pulley sheave is usually for AC compressor. If that is used for alternator it would be really spinning fast.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Mad Mux

Thinking about it more, this engine has a 2-groove crank pulley; water pump and power steering are on the "base" (?) water pump pulley, of course, and then only the outer groove of the 2-groove pulley is used for alternator; inner must have been AC? So I only need 1...if I can get a 1-groove pulley (anybody make one?), swapping would buy me about an inch, which would let the fan clear the pulley, and the radiator by a safe margin. Then I'd have to play with the alternator bracket to line it up, but that should be easy.

You have a mis-match.

The crank pulley shows me three sheath while the WP pulley is showing me single sheath.



There should be STAMPING ID NOS on either pulley. That will give you an idea of what they were originally assembled on. It is also possible the CS pulley is two-piece. It all depends on where the owner found the pieces for the swap.

You may also be able to see a CASTING ID on the WP. That will give you an idea of what it was on originally.

The distance the fan sticks out is determined by the WP impeller length and a possible fan spacer.

Is a photo of the radiator install possible?

Are there any salvage yards in your area?

[Mad Mux]

Thanks guys. More pics tomorrow. Clearly this thing was cobbled together from a pile of sbf parts from 60s to 80s. Goal is just to get it running reliably, seems like moving alternator belt to the inner/small pulley is first step; then PS belt to outer groove.

I have another friend recommending to just go electric fan, then I could mount radiator however....thoughts?

[JeffB2]

Originally Posted by Mad Mux

Thanks guys. More pics tomorrow. Clearly this thing was cobbled together from a pile of sbf parts from 60s to 80s. Goal is just to get it running reliably, seems like moving alternator belt to the inner/small pulley is first step; then PS belt to outer groove.

I have another friend recommending to just go electric fan, then I could mount radiator however....thoughts?

Best solution might be this. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1954-1955-1...UAAOSwH2VcOnVI

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Mad Mux

I have another friend recommending to just go electric fan, then I could mount radiator however....thoughts?

Originally Posted by JeffB2

Best solution might be this. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1954-1955-1...UAAOSwH2VcOnVI

An electric fan setup will be the FINAL SOLUTION. All you have then is pulley alignment and possible WP snout clearance.

Now if you do not wish to go electric, there is also a bolt-in ALUM RAD available and RAD SHROUD (mechanical fan).

[JeffB2]

The outer groove furthest away from the block is only for A/C,so you need to move that. The center groove should be power steering and groove closest to the block is the alternator.

[Mad Mux]

Thanks. Shows you how much I have to learn, I never really paid close attention to belt routing all these years. To do that I will have to get a different alt bracket , which could be a pain of trial and error to fit...and again, not trying to restore the engine to original, just trying to get it running.
How about this...get a 2-groove water pump pulley, run alt and WP on #2 crank groove (as in pic). I know #2 crank groove is bigger, so that would turn WP and alt a little faster, but is it enough faster to be a problem? Thats the easy solution, but if it will cause issues I'll do it as you say.
By the way, WP pulley is a C8, so is PS spacer bracket. Cant see casting number on the WP or PSP themselves. Manifold is RF-E3ZE-9425-FD....so yeah, a cobbled together SBF.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Mad Mux

WP pulley is a C8, so is PS spacer bracket. Cant see casting number on the WP or PSP themselves. Manifold is RF-E3ZE-9425-FD....so yeah, a cobbled together SBF.

C8 = 1968
E3ZE = 1983 - Z signifying MUST

I cannot see the PS pump clearly. Does it have a plastic reservoir? Any chance of the RAD install photo?

Do you want the install to look somewhat factory correct or just want a runner for now?

Will go whichever path you choose.

[KULTULZ]

Here is a good TECH thread - https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...ulleys.303600/

[Mad Mux]

Here's the PS pump. More Rad pics soon. Thanks!

[Mad Mux]

Thanks! I'll contact them to see if the mounting bracket "ears will work in mine...should.

[Mad Mux]

Originally Posted by JeffB2

If you are going to change the radiator and the fan you can gain almost 4" by using the 1965-69 289-302 "short" water pump and matching harmonic balancer and pulleys. Here is an example. The early "short" pump has the lower hose on the passenger side. 1970 and later "long pumps" are located on the drivers side.

Re-read your post....I must have a "long" water pump, it has mechanical fuel pump and dipstick in the timing cover. I like your suggestion, but maybe for down the road....would be easier to just push the radiator forward, or mount as OE and put electric fan on front (pusher). Right?