Water Pump Flow Rate

[Ol' Ron]

I have all my blocks Bake cleaned. Works every time.

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by frnkeore

Has anyone tried to route the flow to the back of the block, by restricting the front transfer holes? It seems like the reversed 8BA heads and restricted front transfer holes would help, maybe a lot in long loading cycles.

Tinker, those 21 stud heads look awesome. Do you know anything about them and who made them?

I used to visit an guy that was a roundy round guy in the 40s. He said he did flip the heads on the early engines a few times. They do flip, but not sure on combustion chambers.


Looks like you need to make a better mouse trap.. or head.

Here is a set for your 24 stud.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...ead-v8.950735/

You could probably experiment with a set of old aluminum heads with a drill and a tig welder.


.

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by frnkeore

]
What I'm trying to address is the basic reason that the V8 over heats under longer load periods. If you don't know the cause, you can't do any work a rounds to it.

I'm not sure I agree.


Wonder how they do it...
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...tralia+outback

I'm assuming your talking from experience? I don't drive large distances. Maybe 40-50 miles. Never over 180. No stats. Faster I drive the cooler it gets.


Before your time here, but this guy used to run up down mountains with his regular old ford. Sometime he received some flack here but... one post of many. Guy traveled. Most problems he ever had was driving the crap out of it.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=245122




.

[frnkeore]

First, why is it so hard to find a block w/o cracks and where does the cracking usually occur?

I would feel more assured if I could read a account of someone pulling a trailer, over the Rocky's, rather than just long drives. I took a couple of drives with my family, in our '39, Tudor Deluxe from CA to AR, we had no problems, either. But, my dad worked for Meyer and Welch, the Authorize Ford Rebuilder, in LA. He had put a new '48 engine in it.

I'm sorry but, my engine is a late 68, with block offs so, I can't use the 24 stud heads but, you have given me a really great idea! I can turn one my heads around and use a block water pump, to test some ideas and test one side against the other for temp variations. Before you say that I can't do it, I have three '34 aluminum heads.

A picture of that car in AR, I'm the 6 year old boy with my Grandfather.

Frank

[Brian]

First, why is it so hard to find a block w/o cracks and where does the cracking usually occur?


It's not hard to find a block without cracks- how many cracks are there in your 21 stud? Your 37-38 block [not late 68].

They aren't all cracked, nor do they all run hot. I think you read too much nonsense on the internet and believe that its gospel.

[Brian]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

And I've said it before, and will continue to do so....this is 'my truth'
8BA series engines are the most crack prone of the flatheads. You'll find they tend to crack from valve pockets into cylinders, particularly around # 6 cylinder. They are cast from a different metal than the pre-war engines, which seem to be much more crack resistant. This different cast iron seems to have been used after the war, I can only surmise that post war shortages of nickel for example, caused Ford to use a lower grade cast iron than they did before the war.
I find the pre war V8 castings to be of superb quality. The only crappy prewar castings seem to be the B4's for some reason; they seem to have quality issues.

[Mart]

I thought the 8BA heads, in conjunction with the head gaskets do push more water to the rear cylinders. The holes in the gasket towards the front are smaller than those at the rear.

It's the gaskets rather than the heads that are important.

Mart.

[frnkeore]

Brian,
First,I am new here but, I'm not a stupid kid so, don't treat me that way. I'm almost 75, my dad was born in 1908, worked for a Ford rebuilder and only had Fords, including Model A & T's I have only had Fords, too. I grew up in the 50's and 60's when flatheads where still being used as everyday drivers and cracks and over heating where a common subject, so don't try to BS me.

I never said that all FH's crack. Please show me and everyone else, where I made that statement! But, over heating does happen with these engines. Also, I have read, on this forum about people buying multiple engines before find one w/o cracks.

My 68 engine was a replacement engine for my '35 truck and my '35 truck has only 17000 original miles. My engine is not cracked, that I can find, I can't say what may have happen to the original engine.

You infer that flat heads don't crack often and then go on to say the 8BA's crack more that early ones. I guess the 8BA's real aren't flatheads?

Last, have you had the cast iron from the 8BA and prewar analyzed? If not, you are spreading unfounded rumors or did you read it on the internet so, it has to be true?

Words matter!

[Blackfinger]

Has anyone heard of any troubles around Punta Gorda? I can't seem to get anyone to answer, after a couple voicemails and a couple emails. Starting to wonder if I'll be getting my pumps back, or if I need to start searching for replacements.

[1931 flamingo]

Jumping in here, I got lucky on the 40 I got last year. Had to replace a w/pump (Gotham Auto), no corrosion, etc in block behind w/pump, and looked into rad, what a volume of water is moved. Went to a show Sunday (50-55 mph highway, 48 block, 2-97's, Kogel hi comp heads, no stats, duals), dash gauge showed a bit over half after long hill climb. Ck'd temps with the infraray. 186 at top head outlet drivers side, 188 other side, 172 at rad inlet, about 142 bottom of rad. The "trick is a clean block and a good radiator. JMO
Paul in CT