37 ford doesnt run just right

[Cruiseinbob]

My 37 Ford Flat-head V-8 has a slight stumble and it gets worse as you drive it. It takes about 10 miles to show up and gradually gets worse. If I keep driving, it will start to stumble so bad it will lose power and just about quit. I usually will stop it and after about 15 minutes continue on and barely make it home. So long trips is out of the question. The only thing I've tried so far is grounding out the plug wires to see if the rpms will get slower. The front plug and back plug on the driver side doesn't not react, the two middle plugs on the passenger side does not react. Also the idle mixture on the drivers side doesnt make any difference in the rpms. Any idea? thanks

[AnthonyG]

If your not seeing or smelling unburned gas as though your choke is stuck on then it sounds like your ignition coil is gone or going.

[Terry,OH]

It could also be the ignition condenser. They often will work properly when cold and slowly fail as temperature increases.

[Willit Stop]

A friend of mine had a similar problem.It turned out to be the gas cap.He was using a non-vented cap.
Probably not your problem but worth looking into.Remove the cap and go for a drive.

[estout81]

Read cruseinbob's post. Sounds like carburetor problems to me.

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

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Condensor ??? Bad wires cause a miss fire not a stumble......should snap if its lean fuel, I am betting on a condensor.........

[50fordcoupeman]

I had the exact same symptoms and turned out to be the coil. Ran great cold but then wondered if I was going to make it back home.

[drolston]

Hint: The middle cylinders on the passenger and the end cylinders on the drivers side run off of the right carb venturi, - the one for which the idle jet has no effect.

[Lanny]

Also, change any fuel filters, one may have a lot of gunk in it.
And clean the carb, and put a new kit in it.












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[AnthonyG]

Every coil I've had go acted this way. Usually less noticable at first then as u'r experiencing so bad U dont think u'r getting home. If you have a multi meter check primary by connect it to the terminals + to + and - to - to see if Ohms are between .4 and 2.0 Check secondary by putting - test prong into tower and + to + again S/B 6K to 15K

[JSeery]

Pick something and start with it. If the idle screw is not working it needs fixed anyway, so you could start there,and the issue could be more than one thing! Get a known good/tested capacitor, fairly easy check there. If all else fails, get the coil rebuilt.

[Brian]

I had a problem like that; the longer it ran the worse it got....I was so convinced it was electrical. I changed coils, distributors, condensors to no avail. Finally, I removed the intake and plugged the two heat riser holes either side. Voila!! Like a new car.
The heat riser in those old intakes can blow out.

[Mart]

I have suffered these symptoms more than once. In every case it was the distributor. One time it was a cracked cap - actually a couple of times the spark found a path through the crab cap to the retaining clip. Another time it was a bad rotor arm. This happened on a Lucas dist, and I also had a bad rotor on a crab. The spark was jumping through the rotor to the shaft. I had it also on a divers helmet type, which I think was a rotor to shaft spark path. I've never tried that distributor since buying a new rotor so can't confirm that one for sure.

The HT side of the distributor is often overlooked, but I can attest that it will cause the symptoms you describe. I have written on this subject previously on this forum.

Mart.

[rotorwrench]

Just to add: I always try the easiest thing first and go down the list in that order. Checking the gas cap for venting is likely the easiest thing to start with. The condenser would be next. Most common heat related and fuel delivery related problems have been addressed in prior posts.

I've seen enough crud in old fuel tanks to know that they sometimes draw OK for a while and then crud gets drawn up to the in tank pipe and chokes it off. As was mentioned previously, it will start to run lean and those symptoms will show up. A bad fuel pump can do the same thing. A bad pump can run OK until you start to pull a lot of power (increase fuel demand) then it will start hiccuping back through the carb like a lean engine will. The symptoms don't really sound like that but then I'd have to be there to recognize that.

[tubman]

I had a similar problem, and it turned out to be crap floating around in the gas tank. I could drive around for a while, and whatever it was would float around and clog the intake line. After the engine died and the fuel pump stopped sucking, the crap would float away and the car would run great again for a while. In my case, however, it was not consistent; it could happen after 5 minutes or the car could run for a couple of hours with no problem. I figured out that if I kept it more than half full of fuel all the time, the problem went away.

[Kerk]

If you are running the original type Distributor and coil I would send the coil to Skip for rebuild as it will become a problem and and it takes that question out of the possible problems / You will not be sorry and in a week you will no doubt have it back. He also can rebuild the distributor if you think it may be worthwhile. JMHO.. kerk

[Talkwrench]

I'll place a small bet.. Im with Bubba and Terry on this one..

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by Talkwrench

I'll place a small bet.. Im with Bubba and Terry on this one..

I agree with you (and Bubba and Terry), but the carb needs fixed, so just as well start there.

[super flat]

All good info here, but I would also check for an intake leak to. Especialy if the carb adjusting has no effect.

[tubman]

Originally Posted by Talkwrench

I'll place a small bet.. Im with Bubba and Terry on this one..

You're right of course, but there is a small chance that it may lie elsewhere, thus the other posts (like mine).