Yes, they are still out there!!!

[Bruce in southern OH]

After three years of waiting I drug this home in a snow storm, both ways. 1934 Cabriolet.
Picking up Car, setting/parked sense 1982, all tires flat, aired up (still holding air after two days ) and released parking brake, next out of gear and it rolled.

Next push out in snow and winch into trailer, 4X4 needed to back down hills and to location.

Pulled car in trailer and tied down for trip!!

Another long trip, snow, clear road, snow squall, clear, snow, clear, arrive home, unload today

Start to work on clean up, plugs out, add MMO, clean interior, etc., will check everything, Don to inspect distributor, clean out carb, gas???

[Seth Swoboda]

Bruce, WOW that is amazing. Nothing that sweet ever shows up here in Illinois. I'm jealous! You have a very nice car there.

[34pickup]

Nice looking car. I would bet you would have gone thorough a blizzard to get it if you had to.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Motor is free, Marvel Mystery Oil, PB blast and WD40 mix, motor turns over by rocking car in gear, Great Day in the Neighborhood!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I really did drive both ways in bad weather, my black pickup looks like a sugar coated cookie.

[mfagan]

I like it!!

[Bruce in southern OH]

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Need a better set of running boards, and chrome windshield, just a driver, any photos of 34 cars are appreciated, need horns fixed and remove that big one under hood.

[oldbugger]

That really looks like a beauty, old restoration? Do you know the history? tell us more.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Last owner purchased(father) in 1960 and passed away, one son inherited and drove until 82 or so, it was parked in a barn on property and then barn torn down, moved to garage, stored there until I looked at several years ago. Next son inherited from brother's estate and that is all I know.

[Conrad Rossi]

Beautiful!!

[JM 35 Sedan]

Now that's a beautiful find!! I love seeing these old Fords being found and put back on the road. No restoration needed on that one. Get it mechanically sound, cleaned up cosmetically and drive it!!

[Bruce in southern OH]

JM35, looking around car and look what I found in tool compartment,

[Vic Piano]

That's outstanding!

[peewee2you]

Wow, pretty clean vehicle still after all those years of sitting. Enjoy

[Bruce in southern OH]

Vic, 1939 four door, V12 Lincoln I found also, anyone interested.

[Don]

Come down tomorrow and bring the dist and I'll go thru it and check it out, just about positive the points are corroded .

[Bruce in southern OH]

I will do, afternoon, Dave came over today, now need you, then Shadetree to come over!!!

[Mike in AZ]

beautiful car....would worry about that Wolf checking out the tires and calling dibs....lol.....Mike

[Bruce in southern OH]

115 pounds of Wolf ( German Shepard ) he would not hurt a fly, his running mate liked to bite ( nip ) Dave on the back of leg "calf", she would go around car and sneak up on you, in dog heaven now.

[Lawson Cox]

Great find. Clean it up, check it out mechanically then drive the wheels off of it.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by Bruce in southern OH

JM35, looking around car and look what I found in tool compartment,

Going through a car like that, that's new to you, is like being on a treasure hunt. When I was a kid, I always liked going through the cars when they first arrived at the local junk yard. Usually found something worth keeping.

[Shadetree]

Bruce,
Can't wait to see it! What a find! It will look good in Gallipolis this fall!

[Tom/SC]

Bruce, you are indeed a very lucky man to find that very nice 34 Ford! Drive it and enjoy every mile! Good luck, Tom Byrd

[FL&WVMIKE]

BRUCE .....................
I don't blame you, one bit, for bragging about dragging that home !
MIKE

[68HILLBILLY]

that thing is great.congrats on the find.

[Mart]

Wow nice find.

Mart.

[cushman man]

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Bruce,great find drive as is and enjoy.I just finished one long time to do and way to much money.But still having fun ENJOY.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Big Thanks to MABE!!!!!!!!! Made possible with his effort, Bruce

[35cab]

Stunning, congratulations, keep us posted on progress and more pictures please.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Removed hard radiator hoses, removed old hard as rock gas hose, took distributor loose and still cannot get out from in front of motor. Will not clear the radiator and car frame to get out, might jack engine up a little to get some space. Took battery out, it is bad and battery was rubbing the carpet and two tall (no cover), you would think they would have retro-fitted. Drained oil and anti-freeze, anti-freeze was very clean and looked good. Removed big old horn set, now I can see a body information plate, anyone that can give me breakdown on plate?, thanks Bruce

[Terry,OH]

Bruce: This was posted by Don Rogers Re Body tag:
In 1934 most of Ford's bodys were built by Briggs, Murray or Budd Companies. Body plates were often used so the body manufacturer could keep track of the body after it was built and shipped to a Ford assembly plant. Your plate # 710 LB 7212 most likely means that the body was made by LeBaron Co.(Division of Briggs) It was model 710 (Roadster) and it was body # 7212.
Bruce: 760 is the Ford model number for Cabriolet

[Mart]

I've never took a distributor out downwards, always done it from above.

You might need to remove the generator, or loosen the fan belt. I only use crab type now, much easier.

Mart.

[VeryTangled]

Is that a V8 Club sticker I see on the windshield? First I'd take that as an encouraging sign regards the originality of the car, which appears amazing. Second, I wonder if the club has any records? I know when I register for meets they want the car's number. Maybe you'll find out something amazing.

We all have favorite cars that give a little blood pressure bump. Yours is doing it for me right now!

One last two cents worth... I love the look of the vintage tires, but don't think I'd trust them for very long especially if they were as flat as the one on that Lincoln.

-VT/Jeff

[Bruce in southern OH]

VeryTangled, tires just as flat as the Lincoln, tires took air and I loaded up, still holding air today, I am going to change old tires and rims to ones I bought last year from person in New Jersey if memory serves me. Let me know what you think they will look like on car.


Took distributor to Don's today and we went through the distributor, will have to order, boots, plugs for distributor body, and send coil off to Skip to rebuild.


No better help than Don, thanks everyone

[The Hot Rod Grille]

Nice score! I'm anxious to see it at a local event this summer.

Jim

[Bruce in southern OH]

Found the hood ornament in glove box this afternoon, wrapped in old tee shirt,

Was taking photo of wood grain on the inside of glove box door, need information on parts of interior that were wood grained, any information would be appreciated, Bruce

[David J]

Nice car!!!!!! Interesting to see the difference in tags . The tag on top in the first pic is from my 33 cabriolet and the one below is a repop . Second pic is yours and it looks like you ALMOST had # 10,000 ! The 33 cab one is the only " narrow " one I have . My 34 roadster & 34 cabriolet have the " wide " type like yours . Never really looked into this but I would imagine someone out there has info on this difference . On the woodgrain thing your dash , glovebox lid , ashtray cover , door top trim , windshield post trim and the trim piece across the header get woodgrained .

[Ken/Alabama]

Any price on the Zephyr ?

[Tim Ayers]

Wow, awesome find and car. Congrats!

[Chris]

Great find, what an awesome car!!

[Bruce in southern OH]

This 34 grill was still in a bad box, filled with mice nest, never on a car, but rusted due to storage in the garage with car, who would you recommend to attempt to do re - chrome. Any ideas let me know, thanks Bruce

[teejay99]

Wow , what a score . Great looking car .

T

[Bruce in southern OH]

Shadetree, Don came up today to give the car a once over, it did get his approval, will continue to clean up and order some parts on Monday to go for a start up soon.

THUMBS UP!!!

[Bruce in southern OH]

Sent Model 48 carburetor and fuel pump to Ken in CT to re build. fuel pump needs ethanol resistant internals and a new 9" fuel hose. Cleaning up generator and waiting on new fan belt, radiator hoses and vacuum hose to distributor, go for a start in couple of weeks, Bruce

[ken ct]

Originally Posted by Bruce in southern OH

Sent Model 48 carburetor and fuel pump to Ken in CT to re build. fuel pump needs ethanol resistant internals and a new 9" fuel hose. Cleaning up generator and waiting on new fan belt, radiator hoses and vacuum hose to distributor, go for a start in couple of weeks, Bruce

Bruce i dont have a sourse for good resonable flex hoses anymore. See that Shewman fella. Sorry cant supply that. ken ct.

[Don]

I can get you his number from the v8 book Bruce.,call me tomorrow or tonite.don p

[Bruce in southern OH]

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Found photo of you "Don" at Ken's this past year at Hershey 2012


Post number of flex hose supplier so everyone can have info, thanks Bruce

[FlatheadTed]

Boy Oh Boy you lucked in there Brucy

[4657red]

Damn the luck

[Don]

No phone number. E- mail gadgiteer@ aol.com $28 for no ck valve $38 for c valve ppd

[brien]

Very classy car

[Bruce in southern OH]

Photo of 1934 intake ( high generator mount and diamond fuel stand hole ) after I cleaned up, do not know of reason why intake was patched. After 79 years I believe several of us have had patches done, cars are no different???

[boo]

jon wright's custom chrome in grafton ohio can replate the grill, just did one for me ,super job.

[millersgarage]

nice nice nice.
What dates are on the oil change labels on the door? My'33 Cabrio has one from '69.

[Bruce in southern OH]

They say 1982 and 84!!!
Today took the generator/fan assembly to Don's and we disassembled and cleaned up all the parts, Don is painting the parts, I had to leave to purchase a new bearing to replace the old bearing that required grease/oil. Not any wear problem yet but was dry, replaced with a sealed type bearing.


Also, started to pick at the intake right below the weld patch with a straight screw driver, opened up a hole about a 1/8" x 1/2" long. The intake alumiun was as thin as an egg shell. Looked at another intake Don had that was weathered and it already had a hole corroded in the same spot as the location on the 34 intake. Took intake to welder friend of mine and he is going to close, will continue to look for a better 34 intake, Bruce

[B-O-B]

JB weld would have worked & a bit less expensive on the intake repair.

[Gumpy]

subscribed to this post looking foward to seeing a video of it running...nice find!

[Bruce in southern OH]

Don and I reassembled the generator today, ran test on the generator to see if it would motor, passed that. Next we hooked up the multi-meter and ran generator to see the voltage, everything worked well and then placed fan on generator. Checked out all the old plugs, all worked well.

Generator Complete



Generator Motoring Test:
http://youtu.be/qLkOSOwqDfc
Generator Voltage Test:
http://youtu.be/PkA5H460_SU
Spark Plug Test:
http://youtu.be/93G_SmJkRXo

[m.e.pouncy]

What's that rusty bar for between the front fenders? Fog Lights........or....

[Bruce in southern OH]

Removed the water pumps from heads, has signs of slinging grease on the back of pulleys. Who has pumps, looked at Drakes and they are only 37 and up, who has early water pumps, they look so simple, very clean inside, turn free with just a little resistance as you would expect, is there a way to test for leaks, do not what to reassemble and have water going every where after 30 years of setting. I did clean up with solvent out of parts washer, brush only, will paint after I find out if they need attention.

Before cleaning

[B-O-B]

Being that you have them off send them to skip in Fla for rebuilding. You'll be happy you did.

[bmwillia]

A second for sending them to skip.

[Bruce in southern OH]

email address/phone/address to contact him and what is cost, thanks Bruce

[Don]

Same guy that did the coils Bruce

[VeryTangled]

-vt

[Brendan]

Originally Posted by VeryTangled

-vt

Just put skip pumps in my 36 pickup!

[B-O-B]

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http://www.fordcollector.com/ or google skip haney

[Bruce in southern OH]

Thanks will contact, Bruce

[Bruce in southern OH]

Got the fuel pump and carburetor back from Ken in Ct., today, also received the flex hose, waiting on MAC's parts and pieces to start the re-assemble.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Good Day, got the spare tire lock in locking hub cap to move and release!
.

1.
Removed spare tire, tire band and locking strap ( spare tire still has the whiskers on tire ) The old 17" tires are Lester Tire Co., now have 5 tires available.
.

2.
.
Re-mounted the 17" green rim to see how it will look, got 5 of them to install after I get the car running. Lincoln Tire Co.
.


3.
Also, sent coil and water pumps to SKIP this morning.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Mac's parts arrived today, removed lower hoses this evening, old hoses were as hard as a rock, then removed the motor mounts, when I had looked at them there were strings of material hanging down for the passenger side mount, ( like it was melting ) finally got both of them out. Now I opened package with new motor mounts, BUT something is not working out, first the hole is cross member is smaller than the lower bushing, looks to be 5/8" hole and the bossed part of lower bushing is 7/8", also the top side of cross member is recessed, the large washer is bigger than the recess, any info is appreciated!!!
1.
Old motor mounts and one new one
.

.

.

[quickchange34]

The mounts you got from Macs are not correct for the 34. They are junk. They dont have the correct lower mount and the upper mount does not have the metal insert in it. Give Joblot a call and tell them what you need , they may have nos ones or Dennis Carpenter..

[Bruce in southern OH]

Thank you, I thought I would start by grinding of the lower shoulder bushing, cutting down the upper washer, nothing fits, I called Don P. to show him the photos, we even thought of opening the cross member hole to 7/8" but still does not help the recess in top of cross member, thanks for help, thought is was just me, Bruce
(Joblot, who or how do I reach him/them) I will look at Dennis Carpenter now.

[mfrk]

I like your restorer "BAND AID" the same kind that I use

[Bruce in southern OH]

Hope you mean my Duct Tape (Duck tape)

Found some new/old information on 34 motor mounts:
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...4+motor+mounts

[Bruce in southern OH]

Have started re-assembly of engine, motor mounts and lower radiator hoses. Waiting on coil for distributor and water pumps before any more parts placed on engine. Also, removed all the front end wiring today, very oil soaked and brittle, lots of areas on wire that were bare.
.
Motor mounts

.
Sat intake on block

.
Removed a bucket full of old wiring
.

[Cecil/WV]

Ahhh! progress.

[peewee2you]

Bruce, that is going to look great, I like the wheels, man those motor mounts were beat...

[Bruce in southern OH]

Found a good set of chrome bumpers, waiting on pumps and coil for start up, swap meet in Winfield, WV this past weekend was great. Not many flathead parts, but did pick up a radiator cap for 33 BB truck.

[Big Z]

This is cool, great find and I like what your doing with it.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Got my water pumps back this evening and coil, will start installing them next week, and then re-assemble the top end, go for a start then. Tell me some information about the water pumps, old impellers as I remember had parts to them, spring etc., new re-built look like a one piece model A type impeller, what is the advantage?? On the water pump with temp sending unit, what is the small set screw used for? Also, are the pumps painted Ford green like the engine, these are charcoal color? Thanks for all the help, Bruce
.
Does brass fitting need special dope/Teflon tape?
.

.
Set screw or access screw?

.
Do you think the very bad corrosion on water neck will cause problem, no ring/ridge for hose to slip over, leak?
.

[Don]

Think they are supposed to move more water with less turbulence? Give them a try ,if it leaks ,put some of this epoxy like we put on the intake and smooth it up.think thet ought to be green.Don't know about the set screw,Are the fittings just for looks?

[BrianCT]

The pump with plug[set screw] could be used on either head by
moving the grease fitting.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Thanks Don/BrianCT,

[Brendan]

Bruce, did you get the check valve from skip also?

[Bruce in southern OH]

Brendan, do you mean the Check valve in flex fuel line? If so I have a new one without the check, have fuel pump re-built by Ken.

[Brendan]

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Originally Posted by Bruce in southern OH

Brendan, do you mean the Check valve in flex fuel line? If so I have a new one without the check, have fuel pump re-built by Ken.

No, the check valve that Skip sells for the radiator. a pressure valve
with the new Skip pumps they move more water, and with out the valve they will push out water out of the over flow tube. I have notest that my pickup is running cooler. before and after Skips pumps I run a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator in the winter. and now we have had some wormer days and I still need the cardboard. and I would bet that on a hot summer day with out the cardboard it will run cooler. If you don't have Skips check valve you sold think about getting one...Brendan

[Bruce in southern OH]

Thanks for heads up, will check this out, first I will get running and see what happens, will let you know, Bruce

[Bruce in southern OH]

NEED HELP WITH PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Don P. and I worked on the 34 all day, he came up and I had everything ready to go. Had engine top end all back together, carburetor and fuel pump back and installed, rebuilt by Ken of CT., water pumps and coil installed, rebuilt by "Skip", distributor installed, redone by Don P. and myself. New Oil, new hoses and water, battery hooked up and checked for voltage on coil. Spark plugs cleaned and checked with air pressure. New spark plug wires. Now I have gas in carb, spark at Plugs and IT WILL NOT FIRE, NOTHING. I MEAN Not even backfire, I took the distributor off a running engine I have, changed distributor ( checked the condenser, good ) and changed out wire looms, STILL NOTHING! I changed the carburetor, STILL NOTHING! We checked the spark plug voltage while cranking 5KV, If you run on machine while at 1000 Rpm it is about 15KV. I have fuel, I have electrical power, I have air, I should have a FIRE!!!
.

[KGS]

By pass everything by running a wire from the hot side of the battery directly to the coil. If it starts, then you have a bad resistor, which I think is under the dash on your car, or it could be too much resistance in your ignition switch. Don't run the car too long if you bypass everything as it isn't good for the coil to run without the reduction in voltage provided by the resistor.

[Bruce in southern OH]

KGS, I tried that, NOTHING????

[Don]

We did all that,voltage direct to dist,straight 6 volts for a short time have spark at the plugs but not at the right time apparently.replaced dist and wore looms from a running engine,same thing,spark but not at the right time,,also checked the compression,about 90# ,4 & 8 wer about 60 # ., not one tome did it hit like it was ready to fire.,would the comp be this high if some of the teeth were stripped from timing gear.don't know if engine was stuck but Bruce did pull it some to to lube the valves...Stumped

[jimTN]

I know this will draw fire but I would have poured gas down the carb. One other problem comes to mind that could be the trick and that is the engine may have a fiber timing gear that has partially stripped. There have been a lot of substd fiber gears on the market in recent years.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Been there done that(gas), and I am thinking that I/we have a gear problem, wondering how to locate Top of #1 and how to match that up with distributor to see if it is close????

[Seth Swoboda]

Originally Posted by Bruce in southern OH

Been there done that(gas), and I am thinking that I/we have a gear problem, wondering how to locate Top of #1 and how to match that up with distributor to see if it is close????

Take off your distributor cap and remove the plug from #1 cylinder. Now place your thumb over the spark plug hole. Have a friend sit in the driver seat and bump the starter over until you feel air pushing out of the #1 cylinder and the rotor lines up with #1 plug wire on the cap. The pointer should also line up with the dimple on the crank pully. Then you are at #1 TDC. I am not sure what type of distributor you are running, helmet or crab?

[Don]

He is running the 3 bolt coil type dist,think we will try to ck tdc and ck dist rotor to see if it points to no 1 plug wire

[Henry/Kokomo]

Have you run a compression test? FWIW

[Don]

Yes ,had 90# on all cyl except 4 & 8 had about 60#

[Seth Swoboda]

Originally Posted by Don

He is running the 3 bolt coil type dist,think we will try to ck tdc and ck dist rotor to see if it points to no 1 plug wire

I have no experience with those early type distributors but finding #1 TDC is done the same way. Perhaps you may be 180 degrees off on your timing. I've been there and it can be a pain in the butt. If you put it up on #1 TDC and check the position of the rotor it will be plainly obvious if you are off. My money is on your timing is off. Not to say your cam gear went bad but if it was running before you guys did the work, I'd say you haven't got your timing right.

[Don]

Front mounted dist has a off set tang that will only go way ,I have broken more than one dist ears off by not having it lined up correctly. Will ck for tdc tomorrow and position on rotor,like you say ,should be obvious if not on no 1

[Seth Swoboda]

Originally Posted by Don

Front mounted dist has a off set tang that will only go way ,I have broken more than one dist ears off by not having it lined up correctly. Will ck for tdc tomorrow and position on rotor,like you say ,should be obvious if not on no 1

Yes, same kind of tang as the 2 bolt crabs I have worked with. I have had guys tell me that it isn't impossible to get that on the wrong way. It's just a thought.

[B-O-B]

Should you follow Seth's suggestion ground or disconnect the coil.

[Seth Swoboda]

Originally Posted by B-O-B

Should you follow Seth's suggestion ground or disconnect the coil.

Yes, keep the ignition switch in the "OFF" position when bumping the crank around. With the cap off there is no chance of the engine trying to fire.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Took the front end off of car this morning,grill, radiator, removed crank nut, removed pulley, and removed timing gear cover, GREAT NEWS, everything looked good. So with this said we re-assembled the front, played with the distributor and found that you could place the distributor on in both positions, I know it is not supposed to do that, but it will, remember I removed and installed another distributor and made the mistake twice?? Now, with the front end off we looked at the cam offset wide side and small side, matched up with distributor. Bolted distributor back in place and hooked up the gas, power and and the engine ran after setting for 29/30 years, GREAT NEWS!! It was a timing problem, but self inflicted, Don says he told me to check distributor or it would break off the ears of distributor, I checked ONE HUNDRED times, he said the told me a THOUSAND times not to exaggerate!!!! THANKS EVERYONE
.

.
GOT THE CAR RUNNING, HERE IS A SHORT VIDEO!!! Click on You-Tube Link.
.
http://youtu.be/SCkg22MUFEo

[Seth Swoboda]

Well done Bruce, glad to see you have it running.

[Gumpy]

[IBruce_

the motor sounds good like a flattie should![/I]

[jim1932]

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WOW, you must be from DEEEEEEP Southern Ohio.....

[Mart]

Glad you found the problem.

The engine mounts look a bit odd, though, on my 33 I used the mounts from the kit but did not try to use the big cup washers as the frame already has the cup shape as part of the mount. They certainly shouldn't be on top like it looks in your pic.

Great car, keep up the good work.

Mart.

Mart.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Mart, the cross member on the 34 I have is not flat, ( I do have a 33 BB that is ) anyway the original mounts as I have found out are not like repo's sold by the one big supply house that furnishes to all of our vendor's. The new repo's have to have the lower bushing shoulder cut off because on a 34 the hole in cross member again is different, small hole. Next the new mounts are flat (old ones cone shaped) if you use the bottom washer as a bottom washer you would be spanning a recess in frame. To eliminate this problem all you have to do is invert the new mounts and use the "special washer" which is just a large fender washer with 3/8" hole in it. The original style motor mounts have a steel band around the rubber to help keep it from flatting/spreading out. This is the best fix with the new motor mounds, lines up with lower radiator hose connections, had to work with what we get now. Have been told that there are NOS ones around for a small phenomenal FEE! Told by some that back in the day, oak with a hole drilled in it would last forever, poor men with good ways.
.
Old front motor mounts beside new motor mounts.
.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Don and I took apart the horns on Friday, we applied 6 volts to horns, wire brushed, media blasted and could get them to make a horn sound, but they had been messed with in past life and just was not right. We also took apart the head light buckets and Don was going to polish up, I ordered some parts for head lights, clips, and latches on Friday, I left about 5PM. Later he called and said he went back out and had them both working.
Today Don worked on the horns and head light buckets. He found that both diaphragms are split. DOES anyone have or know of replacement Diaphragms for the horns????? Also, in previous life some one drilled head light buckets and put a sheet metal screw in bucket to fender with wire to ground them!!!!! Do you think best to spot weld little hole back up?? All photos were taken by Don P. today as he worked on the parts and pieces, thanks as always DON, Bruce
.
Horn parts and some new horn bells and covers I got from man in Cleveland area.
.

.
Old horn bells and horn

.
Head light buckets with sheet metal screw hole

.
Bad clip
.

.
New clip
.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Working on the removal of gas tank, removing the gas tank cover and have to try and get the 1/4" bolts that are froze, cannot grind or cut with torch because of fuels, metal is very thin and rusty, any advice in bolt removal, appreciated, thanks Bruce

[Bruce in southern OH]

Removed exhaust manifold this morning, two bolts near firewall, one broke off in block, the two middle bolts came out fine, the front two I had to cut head of bolts off which left something to try and get a bolt extractor on, then I pulled steering box out of frame and up between pedals, now to clean up and take apart, so with that said, you have to remove exhaust manifold to get steering box out, thanks Bruce

[KGS]

Originally Posted by Bruce in southern OH

Removed exhaust manifold this morning, two bolts near firewall, one broke off in block, the two middle bolts came out fine, the front two I had to cut head of bolts off which left something to try and get a bolt extractor on, then I pulled steering box out of frame and up between pedals, now to clean up and take apart, so with that said, you have to remove exhaust manifold to get steering box out, thanks Bruce

Bruce, This may help in removing those broken/cut off bolts.

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/studremoval.htm

[Bruce in southern OH]

Milt K. had asked how was doing working on car, just waiting on a pair of gussets from Mac's (couple of weeks now!) so I can install new gas tank. Re-installed the head lights after Don cleaning up, fabricated parts and polishing the head light buckets. Also, Don got horns re-assembled and I installed and then removed until last as not to mess them up. I received the front bumper brackets and installed over weekend. Placed one of the newer used chrome bumpers on car that I purchased, looks good, will have to remove the bumper brackets now that I have them lining up correctly and paint (need bumper bolts. Also, I removed the steering column so I could clean it up and install a new upper bushing in column, (moves due to bad bushing). I am taking column down to Don Preston's home tomorrow and we will remove steering wheel, tube and look at problem. To get steering column off I had to remove the exhaust manifold, this was a JOB! I did as you know get manifold off, but had to cut the two front bolts heads off, got those two out last evening, really came out easy with small pipe wrench, the problem now is the one bolt that broke off in block in the rear, will have to find a small wire welder to weld washer to small piece of bolt that is still out of block (about a quarter inch) then a nut to washer so I can turn out. Also, last evening I am trying to make the passenger side rear bumper bracket match the drivers side bracket, it was bent, and the old bumper was bent to match. Getting closer but will continue today to correct, will have to heat up and put in press or vise, wiring needs completed after I get steering column fixed, battery box needs straighten up. Gas line installed, you name it I need to clean or correct!! thanks for asking and keep after me, Bruce in southern OHIO
.

.

.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Corrected the bumper brackets, thanks everyone for help,
.

.
Will need a lot of info as I go, did purchase the Early V8 - 1933/34 book, just have to do more research, Bruce

[jerry grayson]

Bruce
This is a VERY nice car and you are lucky to have found it! Several points: It seems that with some parts you are looking for originality and with others you are not. You have a 37 engine, (as you may know), the fuel pump stand is incorrect for 34, the water pumps are 36, heads should be aluminum, fuel pump is a 47, carburetor is a 36 and others have told you about the motor mounts. You say that you are installing a new gas tank and with this you may not be able to use your original gas gauge. I am not being critical and your car will be a great driver just as it is!!

[Bruce in southern OH]

Jerry, the motor was changed in 1978(found a note on back of enevolope in glove box), have the orginal 34 engine and transmission, will have to look again at fuel pump stand ( it was on the engine ) send me information on correct one, have the re-buildt model 48 carburetor "with out at the 48 logo" from Ken also, you will have to take up the fuel pump problem with Ken of Ct.,it is supposed to be the correct fuel pump. I have a replaced the 1947 fuel pumps on 47 cars and they have a glass bowl. Tank will accept the old fuel pickup and I have found with my 41 pickup that nothing will run long on rust or water. I did take steering column out to replace the upper and lower bushing so I can make a driver, "safe driver". Motor mounts are another question, the ones I installed are what is on the market, if I place the new ones beside the old ones, they do measure the same, and now the motor is setting correctly in front cross member. NOW for everyone reading this, I appreciate your reply Jerry, I take the message like you wrote it, just good V8 people looking at another V8 car. I will get car so soon I can get the car on road, I have not got to drop the car in gear yet and let it pull me along, just been pulled by my son and 4-wheeler to garage. Have several V8er's sending me information about 34's, now I hope you will be an additional source of information, thank you again and glad you posted reply, Bruce

[Bruce in southern OH]

Jerry, thought I got a 34 fuel pump, because I told him what I was restoring/fixing up, NOPE. You are correct, have some nice photos, will try and do my little part. Will look for parts as I go, thanks Bruce
.
Thanks Milt for photo's
.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Been working on the rear end, drain old oil from rear end, clean up, working on the brakes and free up all brake parts.
.

.
Removed two of the rear shocks, this is so I can install the two gussets with new cage nuts, after they are installed new gas tank.
.

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Removed the brake/clutch pedal assembly and cleaned up, will have to get the bushing so I can correct play, also removed and cleaned up the steering column and installed new top bushing in column, lots of grease and crud. Made a "special washer" that was used to beef up frame, this made the bolts make up correctly. Always appreciate Fordbarns viewing and making comments on what to do and correct.
.

.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Removed the front end, remove old grease and undercoating first. Next go through the brakes and check, also install new teflon parts in the drag link and tie rod ends, everything greasy and a full of grit,
.

.

[Vics Stuff]

Real nice find there. Was worth the effort and waite ?

[Bruce in southern OH]

Makes you think, after you start making the car safe to drive and come out of sleep to drive again, yeah, learning alot about 34 cars and remembering stuff that I have not done in years, cleaning, oiling, lubing and adjusting!!!!!!!

[Bruce in southern OH]

Took the complete front end axle down to Don's today, we completely disassembled and I will take back to my garage to de-grease and order bushings and front end parts for drag link and tie rod. Removed brakes and will install new tracks for brake shoes to run on. We took the spring apart and removed the shackles. Both from spring and axle, then replaced, went very smooth with Don's special tools and punches, couple of photos,
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Installing new front shackle bushing in front perch,
.

.
Installing new shackle bushing in main leaf of front spring
.

[Bruce in southern OH]

QUESTIONS, NEED ANSWERS!!!!!!!!
.
Don P. and I are re-assembling the front axle on the 34 car, looked in my "Brown Bible" 28-37 , it is not that detailed, also looked in the 33/34 Early V8 book. This is what we have came up with,
1. installed new brass bushings in the spindles, did fine. ( had to use old bushings because new bushings from MACS had very little resistance in spindle king pin shaft openings, new ones were not as thick as old ones, we checked with digital calipers )
2. New king pin with new bearing, next,
3. drop king pin down in top of spindle and add two thin, very thin washers, next
4. king pin down through the axle and add the cupped washer with felt, ( I put felt washer in vise and smashed so it would fit )
5. king pin through lower spindle, next
6. turn king pin so that the locking bolt would pass through the axle, seems to all fit up correctly.
Question#1
Do the small thin washers go right under the bearing on top of spindle or top of axle where I placed them, between lower side of the top of spindle and axle? or one on each side? or does something have to be checked to see if more are required?
Question #2
Replaced the shackles on front spring, cleaned each leaf of spring and greased with regular chassis grease. I found that they used a old pan head bolt and slipped a square nut on the bolt, ( could have killed us if the old head had slipped through the square nut!) I need to know were to get the correct bolt with the bumper on the bolt like I have seen on other 34 cars.

Thanks as always, Bruce
.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Installed new bushings in the brake/clutch pedal assembly, Don P. made a new shaft, old one had worn spots in the shaft metal, old brass bushings worn through on one/each side, pedals still in good shape, grease fittings had hard grease in them, caught this at the right time. Everything you go to clean up needs some kind of attention. Installed new roller tracks on backing plates. Will start to put all back together after the MARC National Meet in Lexington, KY., next week.
.

.

.
Completed, with new grease
.

.
Installed new brake shoe roller tracks
.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Removed and cleaned the brake equalizer today, needed to remove so I could get the torque tube out and replace with the new rear end/torque tube. We have cleaned up rear end and worked on brakes of replacement rear end.
.

[Bruce in southern OH]

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Closed the rumble seat and could not get open today, called Terry, OH and he called me back with the information. Where to look for problem and also how to access the cable behind seat, thanks for information!!!

OK, I got two other people besides myself. We took the 6 bolts loose that hold the front seat down to slide rails. Got two pieces of 6 x 6" wood blocks and some small pieces of 2 X 4 boards and we lifted the front seat up as high as I could because the interior and steering column. Then I reached up behind seat to see how the cable was routed. The cable had broke off from manual handle. Cut the cable with side cutters and pulled on the cable with everything I could. Don P. and my son worked on deck lid and it came open after about 15 minutes of pulling and cutting. This is the last thing I would have thought about checking, but now it is something else to fix. Don P and I then cleaned up the garage, got the car out and drove for first time out on main/public road to Scottown, OH and back to Proctorville, OH. (10 or 12 miles ) Did not miss a beat, this is first time in about 30 plus years it has been under its own power. Thanks everyone for all the help, going to Gallopolis, OH to meet up with Shadetree Saturday in the 34.

[Ross6860]

How's it feel to get it out and actually moving under its own power?

Small world. My wife's family is from Middleport, just a hop and skip from Gallipolis...

This is the one I found (yes, they are still out there). Took it on its maiden voyage today, also. It needs work. It looks good, but it needs TLC+

[Bruce in southern OH]

Was just reading your post, sharp car, looked at your information, no info, do live down in this area????

[Randy]

Great Cabriolet, congratulations on finding it.

You may have already figured this out, but the grille on your car is original and correct, the rusty grille is an Argentinian reproduction and is not as pretty as an original given the repro's slightly wider bars and spot-welded sheetmetal crank hole bezel. Those repros had a pretty cheap chrome job on them which is probably why it deteriorated so badly.

All the best with the car, it's a beauty!

Randy

Originally Posted by Bruce in southern OH

This 34 grill was still in a bad box, filled with mice nest, never on a car, but rusted due to storage in the garage with car, who would you recommend to attempt to do re - chrome. Any ideas let me know, thanks Bruce

[Bruce in southern OH]

Randy, thanks for information, went to garage and removed the reproduction old grill and installed the original grill. Here are a couple of photos's, will drive the car to little car show in Gallipolis, OHIO this weekend. Original grill is pitted very badly, would not think it could be re chromed. You and Don are correct, the old grill looks better even if not (shiny) thanks Randy and Don P.
.
Reproduction grill
.

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Original grill
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Original grill
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New Drake running boards
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New/Old Wheels on the car
.

[Ross6860]

Originally Posted by Bruce in southern OH

Was just reading your post, sharp car, looked at your information, no info, do live down in this area????

I live in Canton, Ohio, but I'm down Marietta and Belpre way quite often for work.

My wife still has relatives in Middleport and Tupper's Plain.

I don't think my car can make it, but I would love to make the show in Gallipolis. Maybe next year? Do they allow "modern" cars? My '74 Torino has already survived a 450 mile road trip, so I know it can make it there...

[Bruce in southern OH]

Yes, you will see everything from 2013 cars to T Model's, bring the Starsky and Hutch car, look forward to seeing you, Bruce

[Bruce in southern OH]

Got all the rear body parts assembled correctly now, frame tube spreader, gas tank cover with nuts and bolts, bumper brackets and spare tire carrier, will finish installing the bumper today, thanks
.

.

.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Well, drove the 34 down to Ashland, Ky, to Don P. for a longer trip, everything fine, about 25 miles one way. Came back up river and stopped at Dave M. and everything was fine, driving between South Point and Proctorville, OH and car picked up a vibration. Stopped twice to see if I could find out what it was, nothing. Pulled up to my garage and opened the garage door, got back in car and it would not go in gear, raking the transmission. Turned car off and placed in 1st and pulled in garage, worked on the clutch linkage, would not adjust and have clevis all the way out and still no clutch. Going to have to pull motor and transmission and install new pilot bearing, throw out bearing, clutch and pressure plate. Made several trips with the old unit, thought I had everything worked out with car, BUT old clutch gave OUT! Will advise.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Pulled the motor out of car today, removed the transmission and found the problem of why my clutch would not release. After driving with no problem for miles, then when I got home, car would not go in gear, found small brass rivet on the disc. Also found the problem (I hope) of why I had no adjustment on the clevis for clutch link and no free travel. Clutch disc is thin, hope new one is a lot thicker. Pressure plate and fly wheel are fine with no damage. Also, in the beginning of making car road worhty I had purchased a rear motor mount because all mounts had dissolved like front ones due to oil and fluids on the rubber for years. Old rear mount was like gum, just broke it up in little pieces. I then wire wheeled the rear motor parts clean and moved to new mount. Will order parts and re assemble in next couple of weeks. Will also rebuilt cross in transmission shaft for throw out bearing with new one and bushings, thanks Bruce
.
Engine Removed
.

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9" clutch disc with top of old rivet.
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disc photo
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Fly wheel, undamaged
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Rear motor mount damage by years of oil and grease
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New rear motor mount and mount parts moved
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[Kentf1003]

A real beauty. Well, your life has peaked now. You've landed the big fish. Kind of sad. Maybe you would consider throwing it back?

[Bruce in southern OH]

Always, catch and release!

[Barn Junk]

WOW, that rear trans mount is one of the worst I have seen. Good you caught it when you did. Super nice car and just getting better. Keep up the good work.

[slug]

If you ever decide to have the original grill rechromed give it to Jon Wright at Custom Chrome in Grafton Ohio. It won't be cheap but you won't find another original grill nicer than yours when it's done. John

[Mart]

Glad you pulled the motor and found the loose rivet. Can you imagine how long we would have been trying to guess what was causing the problem? Glad you just launched in and got straight to the cause.

It will feel nicer with the mounts all repaired.

Glad you have driven it, it's another little milestone in it's history.

Mart.

[Bruce in southern OH]

As always, Don P. was there to take photos, help take motor out and look at parts for problems, then for solutions to correct. As Don was leaving yesterday I started putting up parts, picked up the little transmission off table and moved to garage. I set the transmission down gently on metal drip pan on floor, turned around and heard some little metal sounds. Looked at rear of the 34 transmission and the rear main shaft bearing race was laying broke on drip pan and shaft had slid back a couple of inches. The metal looked like broke glass, I guess the motor mount was holding the bearing in place, no slop in bearing, just broke and fell out?? I will take photo of bearing later, ordered new parts for transmission and clutch.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Photos of broke rear main shaft bearing in the 34 transmission, have ordered a replacement. Any idea why? Age?
.

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[46fordnut]

all in all still a very nice and cool find . good luck

[Mart]

I did have a bearing break a little bit like that, once, but the output shaft had snapped. I don't know what may have happened to yours, it may have had some sort of an impact an some time, but I can't think how.

Mart.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Mart, understand, bearing was fine, the metal plate on front of motor mount must have held bearing in place. All individual bearings look good, no discolor, definitly did not lack lube. I am hoping the vibration I picked up was the clutch (really do not see how one little rivet could make it feel like a tire out of balance). Also, do not see the bearing causing the vibration. Will have to put back together and check. I think I will go back to garage and check to see if the drive shaft is tight "centered" in torque tube, thanks Bruce
.
Red paint around the part of motor mount and gasket that mates up to transmission, plate would have held bearing from falling apart "for a while" just dodged another bullet??
.

[FlatheadTed]

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What I am thinking Bruce is that your bearing has had a impact from the U joint and in turn from the rear axle . drive shaft to long, or spring causing it to work backwards and forward ,??

[BrianCT]

Bruce,
When I saw the photos in your first post back in Feb. I was happy for you but
a touch jealous. I thought it would be a nice driver as is. Just goes to show how
many hidden problems there can be in a very good looking car. You have earned
every bit of that car.
Hope all goes well from now on.
Brian

[Ross F-1]

If the early closed trannies are at all like the open drives, I'd bet the retainer (motor mount) came loose and was hammering on the exposed part of the bearing race. It would take tremendous force to crack a race like that!

[Bruce in southern OH]

Ross, that is an idea!! I did see circular scratch marks in the universal cover that attaches to the transmission, wonder if the motor mount was loose (not to frame, but in molded rubber ) in the rubber? I did not see this, but it is a possibility, what would make marks in the universal cover?? Universal seems good, I am looking for a cause, so I can find the cure. Let me know what you think, will go take a couple of photos later, thanks Bruce
( Ross, going to install a 39 transmission gear set in a early case and restore the original transmission and put on shelf until I have original motor/trans for back up) Have looked/read that we cannot move the transmission tower, that is only bad part.

[Ross F-1]

I meant the 6 bolts that hold the bearing retainer to the rear of the trans case were loose. Probably caused a big leak and someone subsequently tightened the bolts up, thinking no damage had been done. Are those bolts drilled for safety wire on yours?

[Bruce in southern OH]

Ross, could have happen that way, can not remember taking wire off of bolts, do not think so, but like you said they were tight. Would have happened in the late 70's or early 80's and I inherited the problem. The fly wheel has safety wire, I will check the 6 bolts for holes and install if they are drilled, thanks Bruce

[Terry,OH]

Disassemble and clean the transmission and inspect for other damage especially the syncro hub. How did it shift into 2nd gear, when you drove the car? Smooth and without any grinding? How about the down shift from 3 to 2?

[Bruce in southern OH]

Shifted fine, smooth and without grinding, best feeling clutch I had, I did fine out that on a down hill that it would pop out of 2ND gear, you could hold it in second, no problem on the up shift in any gear. The transmission was clean, clean, no sludge or metal looking oil, 3 to 2 was fine, thanks Bruce

[Ross F-1]

If the main shaft is supported in the input shaft by individual needles, you'll have to take it apart to make sure none fell out when the main shaft slid back.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Ross, as Don P. and I took 34 transmission apart today we did check the separation and looked to make sure bearings were intact.
Next we cleaned up the 39 transmission and got ready to paint. I need some parts, ordered rear bearing for 34 transmission and bushing for the 39 later case for clutch throw out bearing cross shaft. NOW I have a question, it is a shifter handle question, is the end of shifter handle to have a perfect round end or does it have flat spot on it??
.

.

[Ross F-1]

Bruce, I don't personally have a top-shift trans, but my recollection from others I helped with is that the do have two flat sides, the dimension across them matches the fork selector width. But I hope someone with more experience will confirm!!

[wspiker]

Some of this stuff is getting OLD HAT!

[Bruce in southern OH]

Replace the clutch disc, pilot bearing and throw bearing, have found one problem that others now tell me they also had. In the 1934 models they made two different clutch adjustment rods, one that is 3 1/2" long and one that is 4 11/16" long, mine for some reason was the 3 1/2" clutch rod. (wrong for this car ) I have ordered the longer one, this should give me more adjustment and allow more of rod to be in the clevis that attaches to the clutch shaft arm on transmission. The clutch adjustment rod had always been at the max. sense I have owned, until the problem with a rivet falling between disc and pressure plate I had not tried to correct problem. This week I installed the engine and transmission and I am waiting for the new 7/16" clutch adjustment rod that is 4 11/16".

[Mart]

Good point, the longer one for the V8s, shorter for the 4's.

Interesting.

Mart.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Mart, do you have information that says the short one was for the 4 cylinders? I could not find the exact reason that two rods exist. I did not know if a pedal design change was reason or what, let me know if you find something.

[Terry,OH]

According to the green book:
B-7521-A is for all engines 32-34 and is 3-9/16" long
40-7521-A is for 8 Cyl 85 HP 33-34 as well as 60 HP 37-39 and all the 8 Cyl 40-48 it is 4-11/64" long
According to the 35 Chassis parts book:
B-7521-A is only 3-1/8" long but is still used on 8 Cyl. 32-34
40-7521A length is not listed but is still for the 8 Cyl. 33-34
46-7521 is for 4 Cyl. the green book list the length at 2-3/16"
in addition the book list 48-7521 can be used on all the above. The green book list it's length at 4.0"
So there are some choices, even by Fords standards, for the V8. The 4 Cyl. adjustment rod is not one of them.

[Mart]

Originally Posted by Bruce in southern OH

Mart, do you have information that says the short one was for the 4 cylinders? I could not find the exact reason that two rods exist. I did not know if a pedal design change was reason or what, let me know if you find something.

No info as such except that the 4 cylinder trans is mounted further back than the V8 trans. (torque tube is longer for a V8 than a 4 cyl.)

So as the pedals are in the same place, the V8 push rod must be longer than the 4 cyl to reach the clutch release rod which is further forward on a V8 than a 4.

Just kind of extrapolating the info I have.

So here's a question: Is the trans cover different on a 4 cylinder 33/34 than a V8?

I think it must be.

Mart.

[David J]

First & third pics are from March 34 parts list and the second pic is June 35 parts list . I'll let the pics do the blah-blah-blaaah thing .

Originally Posted by Mart

No info as such except that the 4 cylinder trans is mounted further back than the V8 trans. (torque tube is longer for a V8 than a 4 cyl.)

So as the pedals are in the same place, the V8 push rod must be longer than the 4 cyl to reach the clutch release rod which is further forward on a V8 than a 4.

Just kind of extrapolating the info I have.

So here's a question: Is the trans cover different on a 4 cylinder 33/34 than a V8?

I think it must be.

Mart.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Thanks everyone for clutch adjustment rod info, replaced and drove car again yesterday, everything seems fine with clutch, BUT!!!!
.
I purchased a used 35/36 transmission in car temporarily that has 39 gears, ( transmission was done according to Van Pelt instructions ) I had no history of the use, drove car yesterday and it cries in 3rd gear. Called a very knowledgeable man on transmissions in our area and told him the symptoms about noise while accelerating and no noise will going down hill, he told me the bearings need replaced. That is story #1. Next, when I completely reworked the front and rear end I greased the leaf springs individually. (I have sent off shocks to have rebuilt.) With this information I have found the car is dangerous to drive! It is like driving a bouncing ball, I dropped air pressure to 25psi, but if you are driving up a hill ( which we have a lot of down here ) it gets bad wheel hop with just minor bad spots in asphalt. Next is if you go over any rise in pavement or off a bridge with bad approaches. It will launch you in to a bouncing recovery act, this is just a 35mph, having fun, but never had a car that is so uncontrollable with out shocks, to much grease I guess?Next I am taking tires, drums back off so I can reline all the brake shoes, found 4 sets with rivets, any thoughts about the bouncing ball car, let me know, Bruce

[Mart]

Well, you took the shocks off, and then greased the springs, taking away the natural damping factor of the spring friction.

Ford paid a lot for the best shocks, the reason your car drives like that is because you don't have them on!

Put the shocks on and all will be dandy.

Mart.

[Bruce in southern OH]

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Have done several things to car sense last post, but today I bit the bullet and removed the drivers door. The hardest thing to do was to remove the door strap, it was secured in the rear of car behind the front seat, access was only found with removing rumble seat area trim in trunk area. Very hard to access, I did get it removed. Door pins came out fine, lower hinge was loose in door and allowed drivers door to droop. I loaded door in pickup truck and drove to Don P.'s garage. We removed the door handle, window crank handle and door panel. Found that over the years someone had tried to repair but not a very good job. We will add additional support in door hinge area later this week and re-install door hinge. Like all of these repairs a lot of other things will be addressed, 80 plus years and still not that bad, just nice to have the BEST help,
.

.

.



Don cleaning up hinge
.


Hinges are placed on doors from factory with rivets, the lower ones have pulled through the thin metal, will patch with metal, add a small plate inside door and install 1/4 X 20 bolts with flat, lock and nut
.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Removed both door inside window trim today, front windshield trim both sides, top of windshield header trim and last but not least the dash. Going to send off to have the metal parts wood grained.
.

.
Dash removed
.

.

[1952henry]

Originally Posted by Bruce in southern OH

Photos of broke rear main shaft bearing in the 34 transmission, have ordered a replacement. Any idea why? Age?
.

.

.

Rebuilt a WG T9, much like the spur gear four speed used in Ford pickup/trucks, and found the rear ball bearing had neatly split the outer race completely in two. Much neater parting than this one.

Good job on the progress so far!

[Bruce in southern OH]

Thanks for comment, Don P. keeps me motivated, need to learn all his skills, here he is working on the Drivers Side Door yesterday repairing for me. I was working on water leaks from thawing pipes at Church Building over in WV. Great work, will bring door back and test fit, I am sure this will correct a dropped/drooping door.
.
before
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Work on correction
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Door Windows trim holes were made to large with 80 years plus and big screws, welded up and drill out for small correct screws, will need to do other side in future.
.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Replaced the door Don repaired, I found that over the years with bottom hinge loose that the hinge itself had bent. Don is going to remove and straight them. I am going to remove the windshield now that I can access the screws with the header trim removed, hope I can salvage the frame and have chromed.
.

.

.
Let me know if you have any ideas of removing the Glass!

[Bruce in southern OH]

Removed the seal material from top of windshield today, it was probably some kind of duct seal material is all I can figure, it was hard as a rock, chipped out with straight blade screw driver.
.

.
After cleaning the top grove on windshield I removed the top screws across the header. I took a multi-tool (electric handheld ) and cut the old seal away from windshield. Did not know what held the bottom of windshield in place/tight, it did not have any fasteners. Need to know what should have been in the lower section. The windshield was not rusted or rotted,(painted black) still had a little chrome on the frame and I hope to clean and have re-chromed. Let me know how to remove the glass from frame, thanks Bruce
.

.

[B-O-B]

Boy you have made yourself a lot of work. Going to be very nice when you get done.On your glass unless you want to chance cracking it I would suggest you find an auto glass outfit. I doubt that they will give you any guarantee that they will not break it tho. You might ask them for ideas or try cutting the glass free using an exacto knife,best I can think of. Might be easier to cut if you don't try to soften the rubber.

[Bruce in southern OH]

B-O-B, got it done, traveled down to Don P.'s this morning, unloaded the windshield and placed on the table in Don's garage. First we took two small screws loose on each side of the frame. (screws came loose easily) next we took a small wood block and tamped the top section loose from glass. Glass had the old black cloth tape between glass and metal frame. Next we tamped the sides loose with wood block and then the bottom. This section of frame is welded in each corner. Continued to tamp with wood block and out it came from frame, entire windshield had the black cloth tape on edge of glass.
.
removing top of frame
.

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top loose and start sides
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complete frame removed, need to clean up and inspect.
.

.
Called a Ford Cabriolet owner in Atlanta after removal to ask about the frame, mine has been repaired and no bottom fasteners to secure windshield, the top has the nuts in the frame. I am going to clean up and drill and install the nuts in lower section of frame and have frame powder coated. I still want to find a nice chrome windshield, keep on the look out for me, any info appreciated.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Sent my interior trim parts to Jonathan at Honest Charley's and he has received. He started with inventorying the parts, next blasting all parts and the last word from him was preping the metal. Will have plenty of photos of before and after photos later. I asked and received a sample of wood grain months ago.
.
parts at Honest Charley Speed Shop
.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Got my Wood Grain interior parts back, placed one piece on passenger side door to take look at finished work, really adds to car interior.
.

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Dash
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[1937fordenzo]

Hello there you guys, I also had Jonathan from Honest Charley's do the wood grain on all my dash and garnish moldings for my 1937 deluxe Tudor. He does amazing work. The best wood grain I have ever seen!! If you want original wood grain, then Jonathan is the guy to do the job. I will post some pictures of the work he did on my parts as soon as I can. Well just want to say that your car is great.

Thanks,
Lorenzo

[flipp]

Originally Posted by Bruce in southern OH

After three years of waiting I drug this home in a snow storm, both ways. 1934 Cabriolet.
Picking up Car, setting/parked sense 1982, all tires flat, aired up (still holding air after two days ) and released parking brake, next out of gear and it rolled.

Next push out in snow and winch into trailer, 4X4 needed to back down hills and to location.

Pulled car in trailer and tied down for trip!!

Another long trip, snow, clear road, snow squall, clear, snow, clear, arrive home, unload today

Start to work on clean up, plugs out, add MMO, clean interior, etc., will check everything, Don to inspect distributor, clean out carb, gas???

Wow!! Beautiful car! I want one like that

[Bruce in southern OH]

Thanks, it has been about one year sense I picked up car and brought home, have worked on just about every part of car, once if not twice. Working on the interior now, this coming year want to drive around. Ordered a chrome replacement windshield for car today. Next winter I am going to start at front bumper and take all the parts off and come out at the rear bumper. Then work on the body and paint. That is the plan, Bruce

[Bruce in southern OH]

Before I can install my new Wood Grain interior parts I have to install a new Windshield. Waiting on a new Windshield from Tom Trautwein, sent the old windshield frame to him and now I made a template out of cardboard per his instructions so he can tell the curve of cowl better, frame had been patched over the years. This evening I received a VIDEO sent to me from Jonathan of Honest Charley Speed Shop, here is the link, thanks again Jonathan!!!!
.
http://youtu.be/J_-PsedMvws

[motordr]

Looking good Bruce, my stuff is in getting the Jonathan treatment now.

[Bruce in southern OH]

I am sure you will well pleased, what type car are you working on?? Post some photos and a story, let us see your finished work from Jonathan, thanks

[felix37]

Originally Posted by Bruce in southern OH

Before I can install my new Wood Grain interior parts I have to install a new Windshield. Waiting on a new Windshield from Tom Trautwein, sent the old windshield frame to him and now I made a template out of cardboard per his instructions so he can tell the curve of cowl better, frame had been patched over the years. This evening I received a VIDEO sent to me from Jonathan of Honest Charley Speed Shop, here is the link, thanks again Jonathan!!!!
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http://youtu.be/J_-PsedMvws

Bruce, It was great visiting with you! can't wait to see the finished car!
Ted(motordr) has both his 32 vicky and his 32 3 window parts getting grained. He said he will probably pick his up and get the tour of the Speed shop,garage and the Coker museum too. I love it when I get to meet my Ford Barn friends in person!

[RKS.PA]

Bruce, that woodgrain video is awesome. Thank you for posting it. Makes me start thinking about my '39 interior trim!!

Your car is going to be a knockout, and its story is a great tribute to our hobby!!

Dick.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Traveled Thursday to Charlotte Motor Speedway Swap Meet and picked up my original re-chromed 1934 grill. Got home today and removed the original grill and placed the new grill on car. Also, have the windshield being made by Tom T. in NY, hope to get it back soon so I can install my woodgraining from Honest Charley's. Lots of V8 parts, flathead engines for sale and everything else from porch gliders to bad hot dogs at 6.00 each and 5.00 a bottle water!!!!
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Arrive in a free ride from AACA member, thanks for the lift!
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Old grill that came on car
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New grill
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New grill on car
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Like Johnny Cash "one piece at a time" !!! Saw several people I knew including Mike from the Honest Charley Speed Shop. Great sites in the NASCAR garages with Mustang's and NC Highway Patrol cars from 2014 to a 35 Ford Roadster.
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1935 Roadster NC Highway Patrol Car
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[Bruce in southern OH]

UPDATE, got a call from Joe's Antique Auto Parts Friday and said that Tom T. had sent 34 Windshield Frame to Chrome Shop and should have in about 5 weeks. Joe has called several times to let me know status of progress. Need the Windshield to finish interior woodgrain installation. Thanks to all.

[Bruce in southern OH]

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Well I am back, got the 34 Windshield frame with glass this past Wednesday, it has been a long wait but looks like it was worth it. Don P. and I did place frame in car to make sure it would fit, looked great. I now need to clean up car windshield opening, metal prep, then light coat of black paint and I will install windshield. I DO HAVE a question? The windshield rubber seal I ordered and have is one long piece, I plan on cutting on a 45 to make corners, it looks best in car with the seal rubber flange away from new chrome frame, but is this the correct installation. (hate to cover up any of the new chrome) I have the 33/34 book but not a good photo of 34 Cabriolet windshield picture, any information appreciated. Also I have heard on forum about the black paste material to use on windshield seal, need source or name of product. I plan on installing windshield this coming week and then I can install my NEW WOODGRAIN trim!!!!!
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Ordered from Joe's Antique Auto parts, made by Tom Trautwein
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Also Don P. fixed my drivers side window regulator, works a lot better now.
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Rubber seal for windshield???
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Also have my correct top pieces to hold top down, will have to install on the bow of top, it was missing the hold downs, had home made window clamps.
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[Lawson Cox]

Is that a ding on the right lower side of the grill, near the center? It appears the same in both photos.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Will have to look, far from a perfect car, grill on car you would have to be on your knees to see the DING! Lot more items to address than that, smile!!

[Bruce in southern OH]

Today I installed the windshield, sprayed the rubber seal with Teflon/silicon spray lubricant, rubbed the frame with spray, all rubber parts and it slipped right in. I thought from beginning that there was no way it was going to fit, but the frame is perfect. Talked to one man this evening over in Baltimore area and he said he replaced 2 or 3 glass windshields from over tightening the inside windshield screws. He would come back and find glass broke, I am leaving mine alone, looks good. Also got a lot of information from him about his Cabriolet and things to fix problems I am working on, Fordbarn works GREAT!
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Cut the long strip of windshield rubber and worked out well, lots of tape and clamps to hold in place for proper fit
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Now I will ask on this thread, I need the metal strip that goes on the top front header bow, I did not know I was missing this part until looking for windshield seal information. The top of car cowl windshield has a cap on top, but I need the matching wood bow top cover part. Any information on location of one or someone that makes them is appreciated, Bruce

[felix37]

Bruce, the grill and windshield frame look Great! Can't wait to see this car in person.

[Don]

See,you can get things done without me around to supervise,,looks nice don.

[Bruce in southern OH]

You need to come home, BIG STORM coming for you, leave NOW! Yes I do need the help, placed dash in car today and am ordering a set of screws and bumpers for interior parts, stay safe,