1941 Ford Pickup frame-off restore for the next generation

[mrfliboy]

Mandatory introduction, my name is Jon and I'm doing a frame off restore for the next generation. My interpretation of that is, it'll survive another 60yrs or so after I'm done with it hopefully for the next generation to revive again.
Been a car buff all my life, specialized in VW's back when. On/off 10yr project completed 2001.


While traveling shows with my wonderful wife, she started liking old trucks. So I've kinda had a eye out for few years now while driving the countryside around here (northern IL, southern WI). On a recent job trip up north I ran across this beautiful truck on a trailer with a for sale sign on her. Haggled a price and had it at my house by the weekend.
July 2013

(I'll be updating as time permits)

This will be picture heavy, I like taking them but finding time to post is another. LOL

Motor had a couple stuck lifters, leaky fuel pump, broken points and carb full of dust. After fixing these few items I was able to get it to fire up. Now at least I believe I have a useable original flathead.

Motor running video 6 weeks in to restore, it was nice to get the original 31,000 mile motor running

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fxtN...obTRusrwozsbuw

[Mike B]

What's all that "Clear" stuff between the roof and hood, and in the doors?

Seems I;ve never found one with decent glass!

Nice start you have there!

[mrfliboy]

Hats off to all that have contributed to this forum, without the wealth of knowledge here I'd be lost or at the library anyway. LOL

Found a used 1940 Pass frame 15minutes from my house, whats the chances. Built a quick rotisserie for the frame and started stripping down the old truck.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Mike B

What's all that "Clear" stuff between the roof and hood, and in the doors?

Seems I;ve never found one with decent glass!

Nice start you have there!

THanks, within the first month I cracked the driver door glass, its pretty fogged up.

[mrfliboy]

After completely stripping the truck down, I decided cab repairs first. Picked up a bead roller and some metal and was ready to go. Made a cart to be able to work on the cab. Braced the cab and started cutting out the rot.

[mrfliboy]

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Front inners and floor were the worst of the whole project so decided to try my luck at metal fab.

[mrfliboy]

Had fun using the bead roller for all the pcs needed. Finished product came out nice in my book. Should survive for many years or until the next generation wants to play with it.

[mrfliboy]

The real fun began, finally get to tackle a floor pan. Spent many days working thios and figuring out best way to accomplish it. All in all turned out alright.

[mrfliboy]

Just a few other areas needed my attention and I was able to get the cab outside for the first time.

[mrfliboy]

Time to start on the frame, its a 1940 passenger frame with surface rust only and a little tweak in the right front area. Removed the body mounts and we now have a truck frame. Frame horns also will be changed out.
Time to paint, I moved the whole frame setup outside for prepping. I decided to go with KBS coatings, mainly since I was able to purchase a frame kit at Jefferson Swap last fall (2013).

While on my stand, while rotating one time too many, the frame decided to slip and fall, engine stand leg kicked out. I decided to try and stop it from falling and ended up rupturing my right bicep. This is going to slow things down a bit.

Frame all finished time to move onto the running gear. Front end first.

[tamnalan]

Nice work! Hope you heal fast.

Can you say more about the KBS coatings? What is it? Cost?

[Mart]

Great work going on, get that arm better first, don't risk damaging it further by overdoing it.

Mart.

[Shadetree]

Great project! One of Fords best looking trucks!

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by tamnalan

Nice work! Hope you heal fast.

Can you say more about the KBS coatings? What is it? Cost?

Thanks

The way I understand it is KBS is a offshoot of POR 15 at 1/2 cost. $60 for kit , seemed to work fine for me.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Mart

Great work going on, get that arm better first, don't risk damaging it further by overdoing it.

Mart.

Thanks, arm is doing well. Amazing what you can still do one armed. Just takes a little while longer is all.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Shadetree

Great project! One of Fords best looking trucks!

Thanks my wife and I agree.

[elliotweiland]

Why did you use an alternate frame? Was your's too far gone? I'll also mention that I'm very jealous... hope to find a 40 truck in the near future. Looks great and good luck!

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by elliotweiland

Why did you use an alternate frame? Was your's too far gone? I'll also mention that I'm very jealous... hope to find a 40 truck in the near future. Looks great and good luck!

thanks
Actually when I bought the truck, as we were pulling it out from his yard, I spotted some old frame rails. Was told 36-37 and mine for the taking if wanted. I thought they'd make great patch pcs.
After full teardown, pics in third post, full damage of frame rails discovered. Cab and bed atually holding frame together. Found a frame local, that was in fabulous shape and price was right.

[Cecil/WV]

Yeah, I saw that frame in the first post. It is bad!

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Cecil/WV

Yeah, I saw that frame in the first post. It is bad!

Of course when my wife got a chance to see the truck for the first time, she inquired about the frame. My response was the spare rails will work out fine. Later after seeing true damage, I realized replacement frame best bet. All I had to do was convince wife. Lol

[mrfliboy]

Front end rebuild time. Removed old shackle/bushings, and installed nylon bushings. After multiple attempts with my homemade spring spreader, I went ahead and broke the springs apart and was able to easily get the new bushings in.

[Roger/Sacramento]

I went through much of what you are. When your cab gets to this stage you will be a happy camper

[mrfliboy]

Rebuild the brakes on the front end was a bit of a challenge to rivet on the new brake linings one handed. Took me a while to devise a jig to hold the shoe properly to install new rivet. LOL

Picked up a nice bench seat a block from house (garage sale) for $28, and it looks to be useable as far as size wise. We'll see later down the road.

Rearend up on the stand next for disassembly. FACT get the proper tools for drum removal. After trying ever possible diy idea out there, I ended up renting the puller from Mac VanPelt, literally had the drums off in 1/2 hour after spending a week with the other attempts.

Finally got my brace off my right arm and what better project to tackle but rebuilding the back brake system.

[mrfliboy]

E Brake tube from backing plates was rotted away to nothing on one side by luckily I had the other side to give me a template to go by. Some 1/4" flat washers with a 3/4" OD was my base and than I unibit drilled to 1/2" ID. 1/2" OD tubing from menards cut to length and a little tweak to get the angle correct was all it took.

Brazed the washers onto the tubing and welded the tubes into the backing plates. Rubber boot and cable went together perfectly. Rear brakes rebuilt.

My VW getting put away for winter storage. It'll be nice to have my full garage again to start reassembly of my truck.

Rear end all done. Used my original spreader just had to widen it by 7". This time I completely disassembled all springs and than restacked after main spring installed. Brake lines ran.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Roger/Sacramento

I went through much of what you are. When your cab gets to this stage you will be a happy camper

No doubt, nicely done. That gives me a goal. Right now hoping rolling chassis soon.

[mrfliboy]

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We are currently up to date and where I am at in the restore. If anyone needs more info, pics etc. Let me know.

[the cooch]

Awesome work! Patch panels you made look really good, and fabbing up little things is the best! I have been slowly replacing the skateboard with car building as a midlife crisis and seems like I'm about to get hurt all the time anyway! No matter how careful, there's lots of heavy, jacked up, springloaded chaos available in the shop! Gotta take your time for sure and sometimes just jump out of the way! Funny thing is I just broke my arm skateboarding right after finishing the second lowering scheme on the '36 and had to assemble front end and rebuild brakes in a cast myself. Kinda fun though,and not really that hard, better than layin' around "resting"! - Chris

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by the cooch

Awesome work! Patch panels you made look really good, and fabbing up little things is the best! I have been slowly replacing the skateboard with car building as a midlife crisis and seems like I'm about to get hurt all the time anyway! No matter how careful, there's lots of heavy, jacked up, springloaded chaos available in the shop! Gotta take your time for sure and sometimes just jump out of the way! Funny thing is I just broke my arm skateboarding right after finishing the second lowering scheme on the '36 and had to assemble front end and rebuild brakes in a cast myself. Kinda fun though,and not really that hard, better than layin' around "resting"! - Chris

Thanks for the kind words. Very nice project u got going there.
Sounds like my twin (good luck with the arm) LOL, wife was always asking how did u do that with one arm! If there's a will there's a way. My problem is I never get out of the way but instead throw myself in the way. Had doc visit yesterday and fully healed (8 weeks) strengthening begins today.

[Tinker]

Looking great! Nice fab work.

Not sure if your familiar with Northern Classic. A good resource for wood and bed parts. The way it looks though you might not need it, cause' you'll just make it!!! .
http://www.northernclassictrucks.com/

Looking forward to your future posts.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Looking great! Nice fab work.

Not sure if your familiar with Northern Classic. A good resource for wood and bed parts. The way it looks though you might not need it, cause' you'll just make it!!! .
http://www.northernclassictrucks.com/

Looking forward to your future posts.

Thanks

Great link and nice wood. I got lucky and one side of the wood is actually good enough to make my pattern from. Not much of a woodworker but I'll try anything once.

Hopefully get the front and rear under the frame in the next week or so.

[mrfliboy]

Reassembly time to rolling chassis.

Front U bolts needed shrank a little. Seems the truck frame had a additional support inside the cross member and the new U bolts I got were a tad long, so cut down 1/2" and rethreaded 3/4" more and redrilled cotter pin hole. Left is new, middle is shortened and right is original.

Front end done, shocks and springs bolted in.

Engine cleaning begins, used a friendly cleaner, spray bottle, and lots of elbow grease. New mounts installed and back in the frame.

Trans pulled/checked/cleaned. Its all there, wanted to make sure nothing broke/missing in there is all.

[wisbangman]

Really nice project, and documentation on your truck ! An insperation for many - can't wait to see the finished product ! The way you are doing things, that truck will last another 60 years !

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by wisbangman

Really nice project, and documentation on your truck ! An insperation for many - can't wait to see the finished product ! The way you are doing things, that truck will last another 60 years !

Thanks,

I figure with it being garage kept and outa the snow it'll be around for someone else many years from now. And hopefully they'll get as much pleasure as I am in the rebuilding process. After all it is a flathead.

[41panelmark]

Looks like a good one, looking forward to progress photos.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by 41panelmark

Looks like a good one, looking forward to progress photos.

Thank ya,

Your panel is great looking, very nicely done.

[mrfliboy]

Wondering if all torque specs are available anywhere?> Such as U bolts, shock bolts etc?

Is it safe to assume if no, than std torque specs for the specific bolt size and grade will do?

IE: Grade 8 9/16-18 thread is max 170 and min 130??

[mrfliboy]

Getting ready for rolling chassis.

Master cylinder rebuilt, new brake lines installed on front.

Hoist the rear end back up and in. Note to self remove speedo turtle before trying to slide torque tube in. LOL

Rear shocks installed, another set of U bolts that needed shortening again, at least this set noted the possible need for shortening. Brakes bleed (solo) glass jar filled at one location at a time and have great pedal with no leaks.

Original wood pcs laid out to start fabbing new.

[mrfliboy]

Luckily original wood one side was useable for template. Oak from local lumber yard, cutting, scrolling, and notching. I really do not like wood. LOL

Rolling chassis, a goal set by myself by Halloween.

Mating of the 2, a match made by Ford himself. Amazing how I was able to use a car frame and drill absolutely no new holes needed.

Fun begins, tweaking and shimming. Doors on, a little shimming to adjust, and out into the sunshine. Door gaps are better than before and doors close so much better than before.

Fall cleanup of shop. All jacked up to work on.

[mrfliboy]

Had a full battery tray mount and a 1/2 one LOL, fabbed up a new battery tray, definitely the max gauge material for my bead roller.

Got the steering box all cleaned up and installed. New gas tank arrived (bob Drake)

1/2 of the spark plug wires done, old and new picture.

Started on the radiator, found a comb on the clearance isle local auto parts.

Was lucky enough to find a pair of anti chatter rods from a Barner (Thank you very much) and was able to get them to separate by welding the original bolt to the frame and heated the rod itself and waalaa. Best news was my original truck frame had (I believe) aftermarket bolts, no center square but socket fits them fine. Soaked with PB Blaster for a good week or so. Stiff wire brush on the threads and chased them with a original nut. Complete set of rods now.

[mrfliboy]

Hoping for a test spin this weekend, mounting radiator tomorrow and rebuilding carb next. See if it'll make to the end of the driveway and back LOL

[mrfliboy]

On my cleaning of the fuel pump, found a small (not drilled) hole in the pump body. Goes thru to lever/spring area. Doesn't look factory to me. Anyone care to comment. As always Thanks

[alanwoodieman]

does not look like a drilled hole-maybe a fault in the casting? look for another core

[Randy in ca]

Not familiar with the truck front cross members of this vintage, but looking at your pictures there seems to be quite a bit more drop to it as compared to that of the passenger frame you're now using, or is it just an illusion? If so, is it apt to affect anything other than lowering the front ride height?
-
-

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by mrfliboy

On my cleaning of the fuel pump, found a small (not drilled) hole in the pump body. Goes thru to lever/spring area. Doesn't look factory to me. Anyone care to comment. As always Thanks

Once the diaphram is set the fuel never reaches that area anyway. (after looking at it again) Most likely just a casting flaw. Not personally a guru as they say on fuel pumps but have ripped a few apart.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Randy in ca

Not familiar with the truck front cross members of this vintage, but looking at your pictures there seems to be quite a bit more drop to it as compared to that of the passenger frame you're now using, or is it just an illusion? If so, is it apt to affect anything other than lowering the front ride height?
-
-

Yes just a illusion, the truck cross member has a doubler inside is the only difference I was able to notice. Which is available in the For sale section, frame pcs, cross members.

[mrfliboy]

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Originally Posted by Tinker

Once the diaphram is set the fuel never reaches that area anyway. Most likely a pressure regulator for the diaphram. Not personally a guru as they say on fuel pumps but have ripped a few apart.

I was thinking the same but not sure. Appreciate the response.

[rustynutz]

That does not appear to be an illusion to me. The 1941 pickups had a deeper drop in the front cross member to accommodate the 6 cylinder engine available for that year. It appears to me to be a 40 style and a 41 style cross members.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by rustynutz

That does not appear to be an illusion to me. The 1941 pickups had a deeper drop in the front cross member to accommodate the 6 cylinder engine available for that year. It appears to me to be a 40 style and a 41 style cross members.

Just measured the truck member has a 6" drop, motor mounts to cross member, best I can tell the car frame (correct 40) has the same, maybe 1/2" less very hard to measure with engine installed.

[mrfliboy]

Fired it up today. Purrs like a kitten after getting my plug wires correct. LOL

Got the fuel pump rebuilt. thanks for who responded. Disassembly of the carb took 14 baggies! Cleaned it all up, and re-installed.

Vacum line had to be resoldered.

Still shooting for a drive down the driveway, maybe next weekend. Finish gas tank install, couple exhaust pipes, and throw the generator back on.

[alanwoodieman]

41 truck pick up frames had a dropped crossmember for the 6 cylinder, this started about mid year on the production run. all the frames came with them. I have seen several with the V8 engine in them originally. sure does look like one. I have a NOS and will take a picture and measurements and post.

[Tinker]

Looking good

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Looking good

Thank ya, it really sounded sweet, compared to the first runs a year ago.

[kelley's restoration]

awesome drive her up to kenall tomorrow lol
tk

[mrfliboy]

Got most everything hooked up on the motor last night. Gauges are still working even with that original harness. Amazing. Sounds awfully good to me. Still have to finish up exhaust, connect e-brake to handle and gas tank to make the big drive down the driveway.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E8rs...obTRusrwozsbuw

[mrfliboy]

How about a drive around the block

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3J-p...obTRusrwozsbuw

Idle still is a little rough, clutch is adjusted too much, had some slippage. Brakes were fine.

[VeryTangled]

Hi Jon, Just finished reading the whole thread. Thanks for taking me on the journey. Really nice to see it rolling down the road! I also watched a couple of your helicopter videos, good fun.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by VeryTangled

Hi Jon, Just finished reading the whole thread. Thanks for taking me on the journey. Really nice to see it rolling down the road! I also watched a couple of your helicopter videos, good fun.

Thanks its been a great journey so far.

Next is to keep assembling the front end, repairing as needed. Eventually get to the point of the last tear down for final paint and assembly.

[mrfliboy]

Started the rebuild of my distributor, the front oiler is not going thru to the shaft. Wondering where the hole exits inside behind the bronze bushing?

Is it a straight hole going thru? Size?

I currently have PB Blaster soaking in there, its clean as far as I can tell. I imagine that there is supposed to be a wick in there?

Have tried air but no air going thru to bushing area.

Any help greatly appreciated.

[Mart]

I might be wrong, but the bushing is probably a porous "oilite" type bushing. oil from the oiler gets to the outside of the bush and soaks through the bush to lube the shaft. If it were drilled through to the shaft there would be too much oil in there probably).

Not 100% sure but that is what my gut instinct is telling me.

Mart.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Mart

I might be wrong, but the bushing is probably a porous "oilite" type bushing. oil from the oiler gets to the outside of the bush and soaks through the bush to lube the shaft. If it were drilled through to the shaft there would be too much oil in there probably).

Not 100% sure but that is what my gut instinct is telling me.

Mart.

That makes sense to me anyway, Thanks

So the wick is still needed? There was not one in there that I saw.

[Mart]

It's the crab type that has the wick. The crab type has no facility for an oiler on the end.

Mart.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Mart

It's the crab type that has the wick. The crab type has no facility for an oiler on the end.

Mart.

Got it Thanks

[41panelmark]

I think that is correct but check with Bubba he would know for sure.

[mrfliboy]

After the usual winter hiatius, I'm back in the garage trying to finish this up.

I've located a radiator shop local that says they'll be able to take care of my weeping radiator, only along the top tank area. So after removing the rad, I decided to tackle the lower radiator shroud and was able to get sides fixed .

Drivers side inner grill shield patched. Went ahead and fixed the twisted hinge arms for the hood. Lined up nicely with a little tweaking here and there.

Not too sure on easiest/correct order to follow for patching and lining it all up.

My thoughts are: Grill first, hood second, inner fender panels, than fenders and running boards last.

[satelite]

Great work. The pictures make it easy to follow. I'm sure you will be happy with the final outcome. There is a special satisfaction doing it yourself.
Don in SC

[mrfliboy]

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Originally Posted by satelite

Great work. The pictures make it easy to follow. I'm sure you will be happy with the final outcome. There is a special satisfaction doing it yourself.
Don in SC

Thanks Don, as they say ...... we be having fun now.

[mrfliboy]

Starting on the drivers fender and inner well area

[Sixseven]

I'm following, great work. I'd like to see your salvage of the front fenders from dent removal to rust repair. That is a task in my future as well.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Sixseven

I'm following, great work. I'd like to see your salvage of the front fenders from dent removal to rust repair. That is a task in my future as well.

Me too!!! I'm trying to get my metalworking up to a nice standard before tackling anything on the "outside" of the truck. The inner fender panels will be a nice challenge and hopefully give me enough practice before the fender.

[mrfliboy]

Trying to locate a picture of I believe to be a bracket to mount the inner fender well metal to the frame. You can see the holes in the center of the pic.

Whats strange to me is the other side has the same holes etc, but the bracket would need to be on the inside of the fender well compared to on the outside on the drivers side.

Anyone with pics of the 2 sides? With bracket??

1st pic is driverside, 2nd is pass side but by the time I get all lined up the actual fender well curved area sits more on the outside of the frame. This is all by lining everything up to hood.

[Mart]

The front end sheetmetal is supported by a Y-frame (for want of a better description) that bolts in the centre of the front crossmember and has two arms that reach up and then bolt through the inner fender panels, where the panel is reinforced.

I think the two brackets shown are for radiator fitment, maybe not for your application (not sure)

The inner fender panels are not secured in the area shown in your pics.

Mart.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Mart

The front end sheetmetal is supported by a Y-frame (for want of a better description) that bolts in the centre of the front crossmember and has two arms that reach up and then bolt through the inner fender panels, where the panel is reinforced.

I think the two brackets shown are for radiator fitment, maybe not for your application (not sure)

The inner fender panels are not secured in the area shown in your pics.

Mart.

Thanks for the reply

I was hoping for that. I have the "Y" frame assy. It just seemed strange with the holes lining up as they did.

[mrfliboy]

Inner fender panels all done. All holes line up well.

[mrfliboy]

More inner fender work, both sides done. Last 2 pics driver side only needed a little patch work

[Mart]

Nice work. I have a pair that are better than those and I was holding off fixing them up. After seeing these pics I now feel like getting on with fixing them up. Just a little bit at a time, until they're done.

Mart.

[CA Victoria]

Congrats on a fine job. Great encouragement for others to see that with a few basic skills and a little practice what you can do!

Here is a link to 47 & earlier pickups on the FTE website. There are quite a few builds the guys are sharing on this and the blog for other years too with lots of helpful info.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum42/

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Mart

Nice work. I have a pair that are better than those and I was holding off fixing them up. After seeing these pics I now feel like getting on with fixing them up. Just a little bit at a time, until they're done.

Mart.

Thanks appreciate the kind words.

I had been holding off on the repair of the passenger side one due to the heavy rot. Once I started on it and took a small section at a time, it wasn't too bad. Drivers side was only a couple hours.

The practice was worth it, but still am weary of actual exposed repairs.

I'm now debating on running boards, (most repair work not seen) or go for the gold and start the fenders. LOL

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by CA Victoria

Congrats on a fine job. Great encouragement for others to see that with a few basic skills and a little practice what you can do!

Here is a link to 47 & earlier pickups on the FTE website. There are quite a few builds the guys are sharing on this and the blog for other years too with lots of helpful info.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum42/

Thank ya.

I registered on FTE and now have more reading.

[mrfliboy]

Driver side shield is just fine. This one is missing a bit. LOL

Anyone have a actual pic of a 1941 piece??

Maybe a couple tape measures along the sides to help me along.

Thanks

Edit: added pic of sheetmetal pcs. 6775 is what I'm looking for actual original piece.

[mrfliboy]

Running boards next I guess, got lucky and have some friends with a nice sheet metal shop. Scored some nice metal and was able to throw a few bends to help the running boards along.

Did some mockups to see how far off anything is. Had to trim a little on the front quarters I did last winter. Can't complain, will need a little added is all.

Have just a little patchwork on top the brace up front is all. That'll take some time.

[mrfliboy]

Passenger side running board done.

Also got my radiator back, he says lost count after 5 or 6 leaks but all is good.

Also last pic shows my instructions for the Radiator shop, guess I can't complain too much, 2 other shops would not touch it.

[Sixseven]

Have you got to your left front fender yet? If not, take lots of pick as the damage you have is similar to what I have. I'd like to see how you make the repairs. Do you have a brake and a bead roller?

[FlatheadTed]

Mr Fly boy great job, you obviously can turn your hand to any thing .Ted

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Sixseven

Have you got to your left front fender yet? If not, take lots of pick as the damage you have is similar to what I have. I'd like to see how you make the repairs. Do you have a brake and a bead roller?

Not yet, still practicing on the metalworking. Right side fender is next mostly low around the edges to replace. Its much better shape than the left side.

No brake but a bead roller. I have access to a 8' brake a hours ride away.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by FlatheadTed

Mr Fly boy great job, you obviously can turn your hand to any thing .Ted

Thanks for the kind words, learning as I go. And having fun the whole time.

[mrfliboy]

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I'm sure you all have been on pins and needles awaiting any updates on the old truck. Well there's been a reason for this.

Since the end of May I have been fighting with alignment issues with all the front sheet-metal. Hours of online searching with no avail. BTW some great articles out here.

After actually trying to com-along the cab back to shift it all and countless hours of tweaking, unbolting, elongating holes etc. I decided to strip all the front metal off and re-bolt the cab back down, square the doors etc.

I went and got the hardware for a proper bolt down of the cab and made up some spacers to seat it all properly. After this was complete and my doors were operating better than new (probably). I decided to start with the hood gapping first. As I had done before.

It wasn't until I went to install the bottom radiator shield and grill that I realized my mistake from months ago. I never installed the springs between the frame rails and lower radiator shield, lowering the whole grill assembly down 3/4". As soon as I dropped it down all the pieces fell perfectly into place.

No elongated holes needed, a drift pin some bolts and it all went happily into place. 6 weeks of aggravation, sweat and some cussing gone.

Now I am finally able to continue patching the passenger fender and than onto the other side.

Very very happy with the alignment of everything now. Thanks for letting me rant.

[mrfliboy]

Back to fender patching 101,

Started on the back running board area, less visible and could use some more practice.

Next was a couple spots along the inner fender connecting area

Onto the small spot by the grill

[mrfliboy]

And lastly the dreaded piece (atleast I've been putting it off) the whole bottom lip below and to the side of the headlight. Made up a heavy wire rod for the outline and than started shaping and trimming.Lots of hammering and shaping later we have a finished fender.

Also drove over to Detroit area and picked up some nice whitewalls. 27th anniversary and went to the Ford Museum and picked up some tires along the way (fellow ford barner, thanks). Gotta love a wife like that.

Drivers side next.

[Tinker]

Nice progress. Getting closer!

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Nice job on the fender and the entire truck - what is not to love about 40-41 pickups?!

[Vanspeed]

Glad I could help with the tires, nice progress on that fender!

[mrfliboy]

Thanks all. Dog days of summer and all has slowed it down a bit, but still plugging away.

[mrfliboy]

Finally happy with the pass fender. Got lucky and dumpster dove my neighborhood and found a pile of pvc and fittings. Was able to build a complete fender stand for free. Worked out well for the headlight area holes to be filled.

Will do fine when I get to start painting this winter (maybe)


Started on the Drivers running board. Back bracket was toast. So fabbed up one from a piece of metal that was actually used to patch the floor of the cab.
Gauge was good and its got the patina. LOL

[Sixseven]

Thanks for the PVC stand idea, it's a great one. I'm looking at your shop which seems to be a small as mine. If you can do it, I guess I can too.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Sixseven

Thanks for the PVC stand idea, it's a great one. I'm looking at your shop which seems to be a small as mine. If you can do it, I guess I can too.

I'm sure you'll have no problem, just plug away.


I spend a lot of time rearranging for.... sure. A little planning goes along way.

[Mike in AZ]

very impressive work.....thanks for posting all the work as you've gone along.....very cool....Mike

[mrfliboy]

Look what I picked up from a fellow barner.

Looks like its been there from Day 1.

Thanks again

[Sixseven]

I like your idea of using the bar stock for the fender form. Did you leave it in place or roll the new steel into the form, then remove the bar stock?

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Sixseven

I like your idea of using the bar stock for the fender form. Did you leave it in place or roll the new steel into the form, then remove the bar stock?

Yea Thanks it worked at well.

Rolled it and than removed. Definitely the way to keep the shape.

[mrfliboy]

Quick little repairs on the headlight buckets.

On to the drivers running board. Lots of fun patching the hump areas, can't wait to apply body filler on those. LOL

Got the VW stored away for the winter and was able to get my framework mounted to the ceiling for my spray booth.

[mrfliboy]

Something different for a change, applying paint.

Decided I need to move the frame out for the winter to give me lots of room for painting, bodywork etc.

To do that I need a roller chassis again. Sandblasted my rims, primered and painted. Next is to get my tires mounted up and back on the frame, and I'll be able to roll it out in the cold.

Just my luck the spare that came with the truck is a different width rim, so I'll see if I can swap someone out for the correct one.

My spare is 6" wide with a raised center area, totally different than my originals, (last pic) so if anyone is in need of this style rim and has a original in similar shape let me know Thanks

[Sixseven]

Back on the picture of the headlight bucket repair I see a metal frame suspended from the ceiling. In another photo I think I see a canvas fabric secured over another metal frame but hanging between your truck and the vw bug. Can you describe what you have there?

[Vanspeed]

Can't wait to see it with the white walls mounted! I have a spare 40 wheel but it probably won't be available for awhile as it is still on my truck. I need to get my tires mounted to the correct 35 wheels, then I can unload the two 40 wheels I have. If you are interested send me a pm. Truck is turning out nice by the way!

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Sixseven

Back on the picture of the headlight bucket repair I see a metal frame suspended from the ceiling. In another photo I think I see a canvas fabric secured over another metal frame but hanging between your truck and the vw bug. Can you describe what you have there?

The hanging suspension is for my spray booth, will be visqueened eventually.

The canvas wall is a heavy duty tarp mounted to remind and protect where the bug stays. LOL

2 separate assemblies. The tarp was too small for my booth (12 x 9) Both are just simple 1/2" emt conduit I had in the rafters.

I also popped out that dent in the drivers fender and could not of been easier, started from the inner area and just pounded it out on my carpeting on the floor. cement underneath and smoothed out nicely.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Vanspeed

Can't wait to see it with the white walls mounted! I have a spare 40 wheel but it probably won't be available for awhile as it is still on my truck. I need to get my tires mounted to the correct 35 wheels, then I can unload the two 40 wheels I have. If you are interested send me a pm. Truck is turning out nice by the way!

Thanks for the kind words, no hurry on my end for the spare yet. Truck bed and rear fenders are all next year's project. Looking forward myself to see them mounted, maybe Monday nite if all goes well.

Your truck is quite the project, moving along nicely.

[albertaboy]

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I just found your build. As I'm just getting started on a 40 p/u, it's Nice to see what I'm in for. Cheers.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by albertaboy

I just found your build. As I'm just getting started on a 40 p/u, it's Nice to see what I'm in for. Cheers.

Welcome to the madness.

[al's28/33]

GREAT project and thank you for posting so many photos, feels like we are all right there along with you..... can't wait to see your progress towards completion!

[Teltruck]

Great Job!
Motivating me to finish the restoration of my 1941 Ford Bell Telephone I.R. Truck.
Bob

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by al's28/33

GREAT project and thank you for posting so many photos, feels like we are all right there along with you..... can't wait to see your progress towards completion!

Glad you're enjoying the ride.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Teltruck

Great Job!
Motivating me to finish the restoration of my 1941 Ford Bell Telephone I.R. Truck.
Bob

Sounds like a nice restore. Pics?

[mrfliboy]

Purists look away, but got my shoes mounted up. The Wife is very happy with her selection.

Happy Thanksgiving All.

[37 truck]

I finally got through all the pictures and posts, and you have tackled a huge project! I thought my 37 truck was rusted and rough, but yours really needed a lot. Great work, keep it up.

[mrfliboy]

This fender has been a royal pain to say the least

and this has been a project worthy of testing anyone's patience.

2/3rds done now and too many pics taken LOL

At least I can see the light at the end of the tunnel now.

[mrfliboy]

Yup same fender Lol

Bottom front fender rear, complete lower door skin, and couple rear cab corners.

Piece of cake.

[Vanspeed]

Those tires look perfect on it!! I think she made the right choice!

[36and63]

Nice work on those fenders, I read your posts from summer getting the front sheet metal to fit well. It sure paid off as it looks really nice.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by 37 truck

I finally got through all the pictures and posts, and you have tackled a huge project! I thought my 37 truck was rusted and rough, but yours really needed a lot. Great work, keep it up.

Thanks for the encouragement it helps.

Originally Posted by Vanspeed

Those tires look perfect on it!! I think she made the right choice!

Oh yeah very excited, big step, paint and rubber. WooHoo

Originally Posted by 36and63

Nice work on those fenders, I read your posts from summer getting the front sheet metal to fit well. It sure paid off as it looks really nice.

Thanks.

The frustration is paying off I guess, still got hours of tweaking but looks like it'll work.

[Tinker]

Looking good! Slow and steady wins the race, as they say.

[Ken Crans]

Nice metal work,i think i enjoyed that part of my resto more than anything...looks nice!

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Looking good! Slow and steady wins the race, as they say.

Thanks

Originally Posted by Ken Crans

Nice metal work,i think i enjoyed that part of my resto more than anything...looks nice!

Thank ya, I'm in the same boat, love working a flat piece of metal into something. Its the grinding I can do without LOL.

[mrfliboy]

The final pieces on the fender are done. Nice to have 4 days to get something done. Nicknamed FrankenFender.

Was able to reuse both original fender braces. Nice to keep some of the pcs.


On to the door next. Anyone familiar with the replacement lower door skins?? Only drivers side door needs work, got lucky.

Worth the $$ or should i just make my own? Are the curved nicely or a flat sheet??

I've got just enough metal left from the original 4 x 8 sheet to do the door and 2 cab corners.

[Vanspeed]

Very nicely done!

[Teltruck]

Great job!
Bob

[Sixseven]

Nice work on the fenders. Why did you drill all the holes in the fender under the headlight? Testing for full metal thickness? Making smaller round patches?

I'm glad to see that the cab and doors are next. You have a student over here in Atlanta.

[mrfliboy]

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Originally Posted by Vanspeed

Very nicely done!

Thanks

Originally Posted by Teltruck

Great job!
Bob

Thank ya

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Sixseven

Nice work on the fenders. Why did you drill all the holes in the fender under the headlight? Testing for full metal thickness? Making smaller round patches?

I'm glad to see that the cab and doors are next. You have a student over here in Atlanta.

Thank ya

Yes checking for good metal, I used a unibit and can tell by sound/pressure when I get good metal. After doing the whole bad area I decide on either a bunch of plugs or a big old patch.

The cab is 95% done, just have the 2 lower rear cab corners left.

Door will be the biggest project yet, hoping my metalworking is up to it.

[Sixseven]

Sharing a little of my effort. I am learning to planish the old dents out of the front fender. In this picture, the fender has been removed and is laying on its side. I don't have much rust on the front fenders, the cab corners and floors are a different story. If I were to charge for my time with this restoration the bill would be in the hundreds of thousands. But once I subtract the savings for not having to pay for personal counseling, I would probably owe money back.

[flatheadv8]

Truck is coming along nicely! Great job and thank you for the great pics. I really enjoy the updates. My father has a 1941 Ford 1/2 ton as well. Love that truck! His has a stake bed on it. He restored it back in the 70's.
Keep on truckin'

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Sixseven

Sharing a little of my effort. I am learning to planish the old dents out of the front fender. In this picture, the fender has been removed and is laying on its side. I don't have much rust on the front fenders, the cab corners and floors are a different story. If I were to charge for my time with this restoration the bill would be in the hundreds of thousands. But once I subtract the savings for not having to pay for personal counseling, I would probably owe money back.

Nice to see you getting started on it. Looks nice.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by flatheadv8

Truck is coming along nicely! Great job and thank you for the great pics. I really enjoy the updates. My father has a 1941 Ford 1/2 ton as well. Love that truck! His has a stake bed on it. He restored it back in the 70's.
Keep on truckin'

Thanks for the kind words. Post up a pic of the truck if you get a chance.

[38bill]

When I built my '38 pickup 16 years ago they didn"t have lower door skins or cab corners available so I made my own. For the door I used a flat piece of sheet metal that I had the supplier form a 90 deg break along the bottom edge. This gave me a good starting point. I fit it to the door and cut it to length to allow the ends to fold over. FYI: I bonded mine instead of welding it, worked great.

[IMG][/IMG]

[mrfliboy]

[QUOTE=38bill;1198550]When I built my '38 pickup 16 years ago they didn"t have lower door skins or cab corners available so I made my own. For the door I used a flat piece of sheet metal that I had the supplier form a 90 deg break along the bottom edge. This gave me a good starting point. I fit it to the door and cut it to length to allow the ends to fold over. FYI: I bonded mine instead of welding it, worked great.
/QUOTE]

Thanks Bill, that is perfect. Appreciate it.

[mrfliboy]

I found this post from Lawson Cox on outside door handle removal (for a 35).......

Take the outside screws out of the handle, then pull the handle out as far as it will go. At that point, hold the outside handle and the inside handle at the same time and work the inside handle up and down so the holes inside the lock align and then pull the outside handle all the way out. You have to play with it a little to get it right. Replace in reverse order.

Will this work on my '41????

I've started on the drivers door repair and actually won't be as bad as I was thinking on the lower hinge repair.

YES IT DOES^^^^^^

[mrfliboy]

How about a door, nice project, would not want to do it again took a lot of time to repair the old repair on the lower hinge. lol.

[mrfliboy]

Every bolt back in place, first time since teardown. Hoping another drive before the first of the year, looking forward to the hours of stripping now.

[Ken Crans]

The fit looks perfect.. Nice job on the door too. Ken

[Vanspeed]

Yep, looks very good!

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Ken Crans

The fit looks perfect.. Nice job on the door too. Ken

Thanks very happy with the overall turnout.

Originally Posted by Vanspeed

Yep, looks very good!

Thank ya, It was nice not to have to drill out anymore holes and everything lined up.


Radiator going back in today and fill the fluids. With the new rubber should be a great ride compared to the last one with the flat spot tires LOL

[41panelmark]

Some great metal work going on for sure.

[mrfliboy]

Who can believe, 5 days before Christmas and its 50 out.

Had to try out the new shoes Big Grin Had a buddy take a test drive also and he was impressed, makes it all worthwhile.

Drove it a total of 6 times, each one more pleasurable than the first LOL.




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1NvogOyVdZo

[mrfliboy]

Still Smiling

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by 41panelmark

Some great metal work going on for sure.

Thank you, appreciate it.

[Vanspeed]

Good for you!! Happy to see it up and running.

[OldFordFan]

Congratulations mrfliboy. It sounds good running.

[mrfliboy]

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Originally Posted by Vanspeed

Good for you!! Happy to see it up and running.

Originally Posted by OldFordFan

Congratulations mrfliboy. It sounds good running.

Thanks Guys, still have a big old grin.

[mrfliboy]

Christmas present form my wonderful wife. She actually went and checked my tire sizes to get the perfect fitting set.

[mrfliboy]

Time for final tear down and onto paint. Oh Boy!!!

Luckily my passenger door was original and still completely intact. My disassembly was as the pictures go , One way to do it I guess.

Was able to remove the glass and not destroy anything. But also found some rot along the bottom edge that will need to be addressed.

Also I found remnants of (I presume) original glass down inside door.

Got the complete wiring harness out in 1 piece. Wasn't as bad as I thought actually. Unfortunately my gauge panel will need some interior work, chunks of paint floating around and now missing numbers off odometer. Hard to believe this was still operational.

Will be removing cab tonight, frame going outside, building my spray booth this week hopefully.

[mrfliboy]

Got the Booth almost completed, (done) hoping to lay some paint down this weekend. Kinda hard to show the size, basically 12' x 8'.

Picked up my 2K Epoxy, gun, sandpaper and ready to paint.

Did some rust treating with KBS RustBlast, like it much better than Ospho. Seemed to work a lot faster.

Underside of running board was wire brushed, degreased, Rustblast treated, scrubbed during this time with scotchbrite pad for 1 hour. Rustblast wiped off, than rinsed with water. Compressed air dried. 2K epoxy sealer applied with gravity feed gun.

High build primer applied 3 coats

Got my work cut out for me for the next few winter months. LOL

[Sixseven]

Did/do you find rust along the interior top of the windshield? Curious about that because I've seen several like that but it seems like an illogical place for rust.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Sixseven

Did/do you find rust along the interior top of the windshield? Curious about that because I've seen several like that but it seems like an illogical place for rust.

None on mine, but lower is in need of serious treatment. No rust thru at least.

[mrfliboy]

Trying my luck at bondo.

3 coats high build primer, blocked with 80.

First attempt at filler, too hot and got hard quick, ended up scraping it all off.

Second attempt much more useable, small area but looks more like it should.

Blocked with 80 and than marked all my areas needing filler.

Laid some more filler, blocked it with 80 on a air board sander.

150 fpm air movement across fender, perfect.

2 coats high build primer, drying now for the night.

A few flaws but hey its a 75 year old truck.

[Curt in AZ]

Originally Posted by mrfliboy

Got the Booth almost completed, (done) hoping to lay some paint down this weekend. Kinda hard to show the size, basically 12' x 8'.

Picked up my 2K Epoxy, gun, sandpaper and ready to paint.

Did some rust treating with KBS RustBlast, like it much better than Ospho. Seemed to work a lot faster.

Underside of running board was wire brushed, degreased, Rustblast treated, scrubbed during this time with scotchbrite pad for 1 hour. Rustblast wiped off, than rinsed with water. Compressed air dried. 2K epoxy sealer applied with gravity feed gun.

High build primer applied 3 coats

Got my work cut out for me for the next few winter months. LOL

Wow, what an amazing illustrated chronology of the build. How are you moving air through the booth? Thanks.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by carbonarc

Wow, what an amazing illustrated chronology of the build. How are you moving air through the booth? Thanks.

Thanks

The exhaust is a fan I had picked up 25yrs ago. I actually have had this design, idea (my booth) since than. When my VW was ready for paint, I decided it was better for a expert to finish it. The fan is located up in the peak of my garage and connected via a cloth flexible duct.

20 years lster , I decided to do this truck all myself.

I have a approx 24 x 30 filtered intake. Which gives me a nice airflow of 150fpm across the spray area.

[Binx]

Looks like you're not going to leave much work for the "next generation"

Lonnie

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Binx

Looks like you're not going to leave much work for the "next generation"

Lonnie

LOL

The whole drive train and engine are staying original, that should give them something to clean up and paint.

My wife wants nice paint and interior and that's what she'll get.

[mrfliboy]

Other fender done, little filler and 3 coats high build primer.

Jumping around a bit, decided to tackle the underside of the cab.

Normal routine on the underside. Wirebrushed, than AquaKleaned, then RustBlast (ospho), degreased and finally tacked and sprayed with RustSeal

Opened up side of booth to fit the cab in there.

2 coats RustSeal and now have all my undersides done (bed excluded)

Lastly sprayed a test panel of a possible color for the truck. Gray with a blue tint. Still totally undecided on color. Might go with a burgundy or maroon even. Wife is still debating. LOL

[mrfliboy]

Purist's might want to look away. This is the heater that was in the truck.

CHEVROLET SUPER DELUXE.

Curious was there a Ford Deluxe

[stovebolt]

What are the two tabs at the very front of the frame used for? Did the passenger car frame have them also? You're doing very nice work on a very nice truck.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by stovebolt

What are the two tabs at the very front of the frame used for? Did the passenger car frame have them also? You're doing very nice work on a very nice truck.

Thanks

The truck frame horns were different than the passenger car frame. I swapped over to the original truck frame horns. Not sure what the outer holes are for, the other set is for the radiator.

[Jim636]

Your truck is looking good.....

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Jim636

Your truck is looking good.....

Thanks, tell us more about your avatar.

[Jim636]

Thanks for asking. My truck has a three inch chop ,custom van roof bed cover, hidden door hinges ,louvers in the hood , I could go on and on with all the little body mods I've done. I didn't want to take to much away from the original body .It sits on a ranger frame ( I will never do that again it was a money thing at the time ) I'm running a 350/350 combo shhhhh don't tell anyone.Keep up the good work Mrfiboy.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Jim636

Thanks for asking. My truck has a three inch chop ,custom van roof bed cover, hidden door hinges ,louvers in the hood , I could go on and on with all the little body mods I've done. I didn't want to take to much away from the original body .It sits on a ranger frame ( I will never do that again it was a money thing at the time ) I'm running a 350/350 combo shhhhh don't tell anyone.Keep up the good work Mrfiboy.

Well done its a beauty.

[Jim636]

Thanks

[mrfliboy]

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While stripping, sanding the cab, I noticed this seal ? appear. Too cool


Can definitely make out the Ford script.

[mrfliboy]

Some rear cab corner repairs.

Finally metal work done.

Shot some sealer on the inside.

Spent a week now on the cab body, getting ready for primer.

Hoping full primer this weekend.

[mrfliboy]

I got my booth dialed in for final paint.

Don't expect the whole truck to be like this LOL

Plain old gray works for the wife and I. Took us over a month and 2 other sample colors to decide.

Little wall art to keep me motivated

wet sanding the cab Oh Boy!!!! Hats off to painters and bodymen, never would I have the patience for this.

Jambs firewall, first, did not have the guts to try and spray the whole thing in one shot.

Glad I did the job in 2 parts, 46 oz of paint total, 2 coats.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Roger/Sacramento

I went through much of what you are. When your cab gets to this stage you will be a happy camper

You are absolutely correct!!!! Thanks for the inspiration!!

[41panelmark]

Fantastic progress!

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by 41panelmark

Fantastic progress!

Thanks its moving along nicely. Big hurdle getting the cab in paint.

[Mart]

Nice job!

[mrfliboy]

More shots fresh out of the booth.

one drip/run, passenger side beltline.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Mart

Nice job!

Appreciate it.

[Roger/Sacramento]

Hooray for doing a great job. When you get to this phase the fun will be over and it will be work to avoid getting run into. A senior woman driving a Honda ran into me to the tune of $6700. Oh well, it got foxed.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Roger/Sacramento

Hooray for doing a great job. When you get to this phase the fun will be over and it will be work to avoid getting run into. A senior woman driving a Honda ran into me to the tune of $6700. Oh well, it got foxed.

Glad all is OK. Nice truck!

[mrfliboy]

Got the cab outside, nice to have space again in my garage.

Hopefully get the other pcs all painted up in the next week or 2.

[mrfliboy]

Next project the hood.

I had already soaked all the bolts, etc. in PB Blaster awhile back so after my friendly tap with a hammer, all came out well except for one.

Started by wire brushing the inside first, followed by a thorough cleaning and a couple coats 2K epoxy sealer.

Top of the hood got my favorite stripper applied (Citristripper) and than most paint scrapped off with a plastic squeegee. Thoroughly washed and a little metal repair, hammered out a couple minor dents and thoroughly cleaned again.

2 coats high build primer followed by a 400 wet sand job. Finally 3 coats PPG DelFleet Essentials Gray single stage polyurethane enamel.

Another weekend down.

[mrfliboy]

Over on the hamb, they have a thread on photoshopping. "the moose" was kind enough to add wide whites and black accents to my stolen pic of a gray 1940 truck.

The wife was really wanting black running boards, pin stripe, and grill. I was not totally convinced. But as always she was right.

Along with smoked glass side/back glass I believe it'll be just fine.

[Tinker]

Personally, I like the white walls with grey painted running boards and chrome grill.

Looking great, nice work.

*** second look at it, I think either way would be super nice***

[CaliforniaBorn36]

I once had a 40 much like yours, remnants of the original paint suggested grey with a red pinstripe. Pinstripe was just an accent, not as wide as the photo above. Grey grille and black boards

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Personally, I like the white walls with grey painted running boards and chrome grill.

Looking great, nice work.

*** second look at it, I think either way would be super nice***

Thanks Its starting to grow on me also.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by CaliforniaBorn36

I once had a 40 much like yours, remnants of the original paint suggested grey with a red pinstripe. Pinstripe was just an accent, not as wide as the photo above. Grey grille and black boards

Heres a pic I believe to be the original white pinstripe on my truck. Mine will be the same but going black, not as wide as in the photoshop.

[mrfliboy]

Can see the light at the end of the tunnel.

My VW is coming out of storage on the 30th and I had given myself a schedule to get all parts painted by than. I need to tear the booth down to get it back in my garage. lol.

The drivers door I had repaired sheetmetal wise awhile back. The passenger still needed bottom inside lip replaced, lower hinge area and both outer corners.

Finally have the doors in primer and final wet sanded. Hopefully final paint this weekend and next week.

[mrfliboy]

Just about wrapped up the last paint job on the doors.

Starting to worry/make decisions on my bed and rear fenders.

My rear fenders are really in bad shape rust/dents etc.

I am wondering if I was to pick up some sedan fenders, if I'd be able to use them for patches etc? Basically how close are sedan fenders to pickups?

I know the differences between the front but not the rears.

[Tinker]

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Where are they rusted/dented? I've got a set of 38 rear panel truck fenders in decent shape.

Truck rear fenders are the same 38-41 i believe.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Where are they rusted/dented? I've got a set of 38 rear panel truck fenders in decent shape.

Truck rear fenders are the same 38-41 i believe.

Its probably easier to ask where they are not rusted/dented. LOL

1st post shows them fairly well. One has been brazed completely across the middle of it. Both have rotted running board flanges and both have bee smashed inward. Flanges for mounting to bed are just about non existent.

Positive note the dimple for the spare tire looks good.

[Tinker]

Just went through something very similar to your situation on the rear fenders. Took two to make one.

If its any consolation, you did a bang up job working the front fenders!

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Just went through something very similar to your situation on the rear fenders. Took two to make one.

If its any consolation, you did a bang up job working the front fenders!

Thanks for the kind words.

I've been telling my wife after almost 2 yrs of metal fabbing and rust repair so far, will be nothing compared to what it'll take for the bed and fenders.

I'm beginning to lean towards a new complete bed, and the previous owner has a set of (dare I say it) fiberglass rear fenders for the truck.

[FlatheadTed]

You can use a slapper to dress up the dents ,also you can form a Former to hammer over for the rear skirt lip by using some plain rebar bent in a circle ,weld a support on it to clamp in the vice .Ted

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by FlatheadTed

You can use a slapper to dress up the dents ,also you can form a Former to hammer over for the rear skirt lip by using some plain rebar bent in a circle ,weld a support on it to clamp in the vice .Ted

Thanks for the tips. I'll be sure to use them.

[Ken Crans]

Northern Classic Trucks in Sterling heights has a brand new 38-41 bed. Check JTs antique trucks in Pennsylvania for the rear fenders. I think i seen a pair on San Diego CL under auto parts Vintage. I miss my 40,yours is looking good Ken

[38bill]

I used Norther Classic Trucks parts to put together an all new box for my '38. Since the box is all single wall and mine was beat down and rusted it seemed like the only way to go.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Ken Crans

Northern Classic Trucks in Sterling heights has a brand new 38-41 bed. Check JTs antique trucks in Pennsylvania for the rear fenders. I think i seen a pair on San Diego CL under auto parts Vintage. I miss my 40,yours is looking good Ken

Originally Posted by 38bill

I used Norther Classic Trucks parts to put together an all new box for my '38. Since the box is all single wall and mine was beat down and rusted it seemed like the only way to go.

Thanks guys,

I actually mentioned to the wife, might be time for a nice roadtrip to the other side of the lake and pickup some truck stuff. Northern will be my first choice.

[mrfliboy]

Doors all finished up, only one do over. LOL Painted interior first, than taped interior and painted outside.

Will be tearing down the booth this weekend, actually its falling apart by itself. The white duct tape is separating so all and all it worked out fine. Will be nice to have some room again.

In the meantime, I was able to score a very nice waterfall and whiskers from a "hamber" for my pitted stuff and some cash. Cannot be happier with that trade.

[mrfliboy]

Anyone up for a road trip. Was able to score a very nice, complete '39 bed and fenders (fellow ford barner) only 6hr each way trip.

With my original rusted out bed and fenders and this one should complete the truck nicely.

Leaving sunday 5am and hoping back by 6pm.

Crazy how things work out, I've been searching for a good bed and waterfall for close to 3 yrs and find both in the same week.

[Ken Crans]

That's a nice bed and fenders... I seen it on here was hoping you were the one that bought it. Got a pic of the grille?

[mrfliboy]

Thanks , right place right time I guess

My grill and roached out bed

[mrfliboy]

Nice 13hr road trip done.

Bed and fenders are safely home.

Stripped down and checked hole alignment. Perfect!

[Ken Crans]

I can't believe you got that in the back of a Sport trak..lol

[Vanspeed]

Originally Posted by ken crans

i can't believe you got that in the back of a sport trak..lol

x2!

[mrfliboy]

Ford on Ford, works for me.

[bfoley]

Glad you made it back without losing anything. I like the pic you took outside Preston's Garage. I'll have my '66 there taking some pics this summer hopefully.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by bfoley

Glad you made it back without losing anything. I like the pic you took outside Preston's Garage. I'll have my '66 there taking some pics this summer hopefully.

It was great meeting the gang. Appreciate all the help loading. The trip home was smooth as silk.

Took off 1/2 day Monday and was able to strip it and lay it on my frame. Lined up perfect.

Tell all many thanks. Look forward to seeing your '66

[mrfliboy]

Cab Day

Got 3 buddies, to help throw it on,

a little fudging

6 bolts later and mounted cab.

[mrfliboy]

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Wiring of voltage regulator.
Moving right along but spring/summer slows progress a bit.


Any one have the bat/arm/field location on the reg?

I'm guessing pass side is Arm
Middle is Field
Driver is Bat

Can find no identification on it.

As always thanks in advance!


Just fired the truck and wiring is correct!

[mrfliboy]

Question for all the Ford folks, just found out there is some sorta box, that the ignition switch terminal plate body and brush set goes in. Any one have pics or something that will work, available???? Or is it necessary?? As always thanks in advance.

Was able to purchase a setup from a fellow barner. Thanks


3yrs into rebuild: https://youtu.be/tSLQBYInGQo

[mrfliboy]

Got my hood mounted and adjusted, took a full 6 hrs.

I mounted the hinges to the cowl 1st, than hood to hinges.

Removed and tweaked the drivers side hinge, over 1/4".

When adjusted just right, tightened the cowl mounts up.

Springs were last, big old broom stick propped up the hood.

Very happy with final gaps.

Hoping for another good day tomorrow.

Fenders and all went just fine.

[JSeery]

Looking good!

[Tinker]

Like the color. Looks very nice.

Was there a reason you didn't paint the engine? Just curious, not a big deal or anything.

[41panelmark]

Originally Posted by mrfliboy

Got my hood mounted and adjusted, took a full 6 hrs.

I mounted the hinges to the cowl 1st, than hood to hinges.

Removed and tweaked the drivers side hinge, over 1/4".

When adjusted just right, tightened the cowl mounts up.

Springs were last, big old broom stick propped up the hood.

Very happy with final gaps.

Hoping for another good day tomorrow.

Wow! very nice, it sure looks good!!!

[Ken Crans]

Coming out very nice...

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Looking good!

Thanks

Originally Posted by Tinker

Like the color. Looks very nice.

Was there a reason you didn't paint the engine? Just curious, not a big deal or anything.

I wanted to keep the drive train original, leave the painting for the next generation.

Originally Posted by 41panelmark

Wow! very nice, it sure looks good!!!

Thanks I can actually see a little light at the end of the tunnel.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Ken Crans

Coming out very nice...

Thank ya. Fenders went well, got the gauges working

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDgEdsXV6kE

[bfoley]

Coming along! What is the switch on the steering column for?

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by bfoley

Coming along! What is the switch on the steering column for?

Ignition on. The key unlocks steering wheel, allowing switch to on position.

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[40fordpu]

Following. Truck looks amazing!. I am inspired to get out in the garage now! I am at the stage of rust repair. Little hesitant since my skill level is beginner. Going to buy pre fabriated panels. Any advice?

[Tinker]

WoW!

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by 40fordpu

Following. Truck looks amazing!. I am inspired to get out in the garage now! I am at the stage of rust repair. Little hesitant since my skill level is beginner. Going to buy pre fabriated panels. Any advice?

Thanks

Think it out ahead of time is all. I started underneath where no one could see .

I heard mixed reviews on pre fabs. So I bought a bead roller so I might've broke even over all.

Have fun is all.

[mrfliboy]

Thanks, It feels good after 3yrs. Always fun putting bling on.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[Ken Crans]

got the bed and rear fenders painted?

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Ken Crans

got the bed and rear fenders painted?

That's this winters project. Still have the booth hanging.

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[bfoley]

The truck is looking incredible. For what it's worth, I think the unpainted motor and drive train is really neat. The truck will definitely look nice and clean from the outside but there is something really cool about seeing mechanical sections/components that are unmolested.

Also, it's no cool Ford like your's or my dad's, but I did manage to somewhat get my '66 back together (https://i.imgur.com/zSEFgv2.jpg?1) for the Summer. Now that mine is buttoned up for now, I need to get back on his project. When you get yours done, I would really like to drive up and take a look at it in person.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by bfoley

The truck is looking incredible. For what it's worth, I think the unpainted motor and drive train is really neat. The truck will definitely look nice and clean from the outside but there is something really cool about seeing mechanical sections/components that are unmolested.

Also, it's no cool Ford like your's or my dad's, but I did manage to somewhat get my '66 back together (https://i.imgur.com/zSEFgv2.jpg?1) for the Summer. Now that mine is buttoned up for now, I need to get back on his project. When you get yours done, I would really like to drive up and take a look at it in person.

Thanks Ben,

Your truck is looking great, glad its on the road again. My garage is always open, stop by any time.

[mrfliboy]

Working on headlights and park/turn signals.

Installed wiring, ground down metal where ground wire attaches, also I ran a additional wire for grounding to frame just in case.

Used Napa H6006 (Halogen bulbs) and Grainger (6VC35) park bulbs.

Cut a gasket from some leftover gasket material. Was able to source all the hardware for the headlites at my local Ace Hardware. Not original but will work fine for me.

Used a sharpie (lol) to color the park/turn bulb, we will see how long that lasts.

Went ahead and threw the bumper on and a '41 tag I had picked up.

Started on the running boards yesterday, rubberized coating is all I'm gonna do.

[mrfliboy]

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How about a 3 yr anniversary ride.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVO7...m-upload_owner

And a outside of the garage shot finally.

[JSeery]

That is really looking nice!!!

[Vanspeed]

Nice tires!! Looks great!

[rust&patina]

Looking Good

[41panelmark]

Ahh, progress.

[mrfliboy]

Thanks all, its nice to see it coming together.

Saturday fun on the hottest day we had in awhile.

9am pickup a buddy 95% Humidty and 94 Oh Boy.
9:30 arrive at a U-Pick
10 Find 2004 Ford Ranger
11 back home with seat belts and (as my wife calls it) Oh S^&t bar.
2pm seat belts in (bolted in factory holes in seat stand)
3:30 Turn signals wired and tested, I need to pickup flasher Monday from Napa NF 535.

Seatbelts from the jumper seats on a 2004 Ford Ranger, Seat and Oh S%&t bar 2006 Chev Blazer. $50 for it all. Comfortable and cheap.

[TomT/Williamsburg]

looking and sounding very, very nice .....

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by TomT/Williamsburg

looking and sounding very, very nice .....

Thanks working on putting in sound deadening now. Slow tedious project.

[32forddump]

You are doing a great job. Very nice. I do have a question. I am doing a 46 ford pickup. I riveted the shoes on and assembled the brakes, But i can not get the drums back on, Any ideas? I turn the cam bolt to where I think is the correct location, but the diameter of brake shoes is greater than the inside of drums.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by 32forddump

You are doing a great job. Very nice. I do have a question. I am doing a 46 ford pickup. I riveted the shoes on and assembled the brakes, But i can not get the drums back on, Any ideas? I turn the cam bolt to where I think is the correct location, but the diameter of brake shoes is greater than the inside of drums.

Thanks, I remember checking out your pictures of your '72, nice job.

Not sure on your brake shoes, I remember my back brakes were tighter than the front brakes and it took some tweaking,I arced the shoes,(ground down the top and bottom edges) to get them to go on. The fronts I had a brake shop clean up the the ridges a little which allowed them to slide on easier. Good luck

[TJ]

In case the felt tip pen does not last on the bulbs, you can get a translucent orange paint at most hobby shops. It's used to paint the signal lights for electric train set ups.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by TJ

In case the felt tip pen does not last on the bulbs, you can get a translucent orange paint at most hobby shops. It's used to paint the signal lights for electric train set ups.

Very cool idea. Thanks

[mrfliboy]

New rubber boot and slight mod to trans cover.

Peel and seal sound/heat mat installed and taped. Glad that ones over!

Dennis Carpenter Headliner/interior kick panel tried on for size, great fit.

Glass is being cut at the local glass shop, they do most of Volo Car Museums' work so no worries there, and having all original patterns helps.

Felt and channels installed in the doors. First order of business was to modify vise grips to clamp the trim pc connectors onto the trim. Taping up to protect and locate holes/screws etc.

[mrfliboy]

Hey 67, what happened to your Post?

[Sixseven]

Originally Posted by mrfliboy

Hey 67, what happened to your Post?

It didn't seem like it belonged. I have been slow to start, but got underway this weekend. I started on the front fender, but think I would have been better off starting in the cab on panels that will not be visible. I've made several radiused patches, but made the toughest yesterday. It is the lower corner at the grill, compound curves and with a turned in edge. Ken

IMG_3602.jpg

IMG_3604.jpg

[mrfliboy]

[QUOTE=Sixseven;1349413]It didn't seem like it belonged. I have been slow to start, but got underway this weekend. I started on the front fender, but think I would have been better off starting in the cab on panels that will not be visible. I've made several radiused patches, but made the toughest yesterday. It is the lower corner at the grill, compound curves and with a turned in edge. Ken ]

Looking fine from my view, my main goal was to keep bondo to a minimum. Less than a 1/16 or so. Believe me I had lots and lots of grinding. LOL

Glad you're getting going on it. I had a few do overs along the way. But got a little better each time. No where near some of these guys ability, they are artists in my book.

[mrfliboy]

Picked up all the glass and they were kind enough to give me some setting tape for free.

Trial fit the drivers door glass. Installed bottom channel, removed inside felts.

Fought a bit installing reg to actual window, I followed this howto from the hamb:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...nstall.950978/

Quick paint job on original bevels and screws.

Installed windlace with original tacks, biggest help was sharp awl.

Hats Off to Dennis Carpenter customer service. Had a slight hiccup (Da$% UPS) and they handled it Great!!

Rear interior panels were installed, along with side metal trim pcs.

For the headliner, side trims removed, got my wife to lend a hand, and headliner went in with a little trim and tweaks, overall absolutely no complaints with Dennis' Carpenter Interior kit.

Sorry for the dark pics, just could not find good lighting.

[Tinker]

Looking great!

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Looking great!

Thank ya, yours in paint yet?

[Tinker]

Just epoxy on the bed and rear fenders... winter tear down.

[mrfliboy]

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Beautiful

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[Sixseven]

Looking to draw from your experience. I'm making a lower corner patch for the front fender. I recall that you had welded a piece of round bar stock onto the ender to keep the shape. This corner has a sever crown and the part of the metal that folds under the fender needs a serious shrink to keep the shape of the patch to match the fender. Pics below. How did you handle that material that needed to be folded under?

IMG_3616.jpg

IMG_3617.jpg

[mrfliboy]

You're Moving right along.


I used the inner rod for the shape, where the metal came along the rod I pie cut, no shrinker here, and hammered the round lip, welded pie cuts.

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[Sixseven]

Originally Posted by mrfliboy

You're Moving right along.


I used the inner rod for the shape, where the metal came along the rod I pie cut, no shrinker here, and hammered the round lip, welded pie cuts.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Whoa, the fender had residual stresses in it. When I cut the piece out that I was going to replace, it sprung into a different shape. I guess if I can get them both to look the same all will be OK.

[mrfliboy]

Got Glass!!!!!


Back and front installed, did it all solo, took most of the weekend.

Dennis Carpenter Seals worked fine.

[jahardy]

That is a very pretty pickup. Thanks very much for going through the sheet metal work on it. Inspiration to get going on the floor on mine

[mrfliboy]

Thank you, its been a fun ride.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[mrfliboy]

Got Carpet!!!

Been dreading this (carpet) for sometime. Took 2 nights and came out alright.

Have not decided for the firewall treatment yet, I have the original piece that goes there in bad shape. Decisions decisions.

Had a bud come over last night late and we hung the doors and installed the seat for the last (yeah right) time.

Taillights and plate holder mounted today.

I have now registered and transferred the title and should be insured by the weekend.

Hopefully first legal ride this weekend. Rear bed and fenders will be taken care of over the winter months. Wife wanted it insured so decided to go ahead and street legal it.

Sunday am shakedown run, very happy!!!!

[mrfliboy]

First fill up at night, 1/2 mile ride.



uploadfromtaptalk1474419924358.jpg

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[Ken Crans]

Really turning out nice.. I sure miss my 40!

[TJ]

Buy a new firewall insulator. You'll be glad you did as it really gives a nice finished touch. Your truck is too nice not to do it right. The insulator with padding is about $200+. Get the one that is ABS and it has the correct pattern on it.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by TJ

Buy a new firewall insulator. You'll be glad you did as it really gives a nice finished touch. Your truck is too nice not to do it right. The insulator with padding is about $200+. Get the one that is ABS and it has the correct pattern on it.

uploadfromtaptalk1474490967679.jpg

Thanks for the suggestion

Since I had the original, perfect template. I ended up using carpet. I already had sound deadener insulation installed, so a couple hours later.......

Its on to the kick panels and this interior will be done.

Hard to get good interior pics but you get the idea.


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[JRHASZARD]

Why didn't you fill up at a Gulf or Sinclair station? Or a Phillips 66 !

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by JRHASZARD

Why didn't you fill up at a Gulf or Sinclair station? Or a Phillips 66 !

Lol. Been going to this station for 30yrs.

[TJ]

Originally Posted by mrfliboy

Attachment 286975

Thanks for the suggestion

Since I had the original, perfect template. I ended up using carpet. I already had sound deadener insulation installed, so a couple hours later.......

Its on to the kick panels and this interior will be done.

Hard to get good interior pics but you get the idea.


Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Carpet looks very nice. You could also use it on the kick panels.

[mrfliboy]

2.5 miles last night, local golf course for a quick round.


One of my goals for the year.

[mrfliboy]

Latest addition, hands off straight down the road driving.

Fabbed up the 2 mounts, 2) 2" square u bolts and 2) 1" round u bolts, and a vw stabilizer.

[Sixseven]

Originally Posted by mrfliboy

Latest addition, hands off straight down the road driving.

Fabbed up the 2 mounts, 2) 2" square u bolts and 2) 1" round u bolts, and a vw stabilizer.

I'm sorta ost here. What are you accomplishing?

[mrfliboy]

I've added a steering stabilizer. It firms up the steering, got rid of some wobbles.

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[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by mrfliboy

I've added a steering stabilizer. It firms up the steering, got rid of some wobbles.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

I must say that your pick-up is looking very nice. But I must also say that there should be no "firming-up" necessary after a simple, yet thorough front end rebuild on a '41 Ford pick-up. If your steering stabilizer has "gotten rid of some wobbles", that stabilizer is only masking some other obvious oversight. DD

[mrfliboy]

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Thanks for the kind words and info.

Understood, I read up quite a bit about steering. 75 year old steering can always use some modernization. It was well worth the effort in my book.

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[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by mrfliboy

Understood, I read up quite a bit about steering. 75 year old steering can always use some modernization.

I'm not sure that I fully understand your statement. Are you implying that because steering is 75 years old and non-modern, that "some wobble" is inherent with the design, and therefore inevitable during operation? If so, let me tell you about the completely stock, yet soundly-maintained front end in my 1940 coupe (essentially identical to your front axle system) which has seen north of 100 mph more than once......with NO HINT of ANY wobble or other bad habits. If my front end showed any tendency to wobble or twitch in any way, I'd be troubleshooting in a heartbeat to find the cause. These front ends were rock-solid when they were new, on crap roads. No reason they should need a stabilizer today. DD

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by mrfliboy

Good to know. I implied that I would like to have 1 on my truck, take it however you'd like.

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[Mike in AZ]

doing doughnuts on the golf course....tsk...lol....pickup is looking great.....thanks for taking us along for the ride....Mike

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Mike in AZ

doing doughnuts on the golf course....tsk...lol....pickup is looking great.....thanks for taking us along for the ride....Mike

Thanks Mike, been a lot of fun.



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[VeryTangled]

Originally Posted by mrfliboy

2.5 miles last night, local golf course for a quick round. One of my goals for the year.

The big question when I play golf is did I start with the same ball I ended with? I used to change every three holes when I was better. But you couldn't pick something more frustrating than golf to do! Makes any person say all the bad words they know.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by VeryTangled

But you couldn't pick something more frustrating than golf to do! Makes any person say all the bad words they know.

So very true!!!

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[Talkwrench]

I did the same .. Maybe its your choice of words, but.. Its not a stabiliser its a steering damper. Don't use one to mask a problem, HOWEVER a great addition just in case something does go wrong and a steering wobble occurs, and it can in straight axle. happened to me in a [then late 1990's] "modern" truck I used for work on the fwy. Once you have experienced it you never want to have it happen again!

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Talkwrench

I did the same .. Maybe its your choice of words, but.. Its not a stabiliser its a steering damper. Don't use one to mask a problem, HOWEVER a great addition just in case something does go wrong and a steering wobble occurs, and it can in straight axle. happened to me in a [then late 1990's] "modern" truck I used for work on the fwy. Once you have experienced it you never want to have it happen again!

Good points, wording on the the old interweb is always a crap shoot. LOL

I was excited about putting a VW product (my steering damper) on my old ford

On another note while looking over my engine compartment, I happened to notice I never finished my DIY Battery box. Brought it into my shop this morning and did a quick and dirty powder coat on it. It'll look much better now.

I also was able to make it to the local Dog n Suds. 10 miles roundtrip with the wife, she held on well. Great ride.

[albertaboy]

Hey
I just finished reading your build thread again. I'll have more questions when I go back and re read as a couple came up. My first question, now that you've done a lot of fabrication, with your new skills, would you have repaired your frame?

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by albertaboy

Hey
I just finished reading your build thread again. I'll have more questions when I go back and re read as a couple came up. My first question, now that you've done a lot of fabrication, with your new skills, would you have repaired your frame?

Hard to say, I got a great deal on the frame, the time and frustration saved was worth the few $$ for the frame.

[mrfliboy]

Been having fun on the shake down runs, at least that's what I tell the wife.

300 miles or so and no major complaints, hasn't left me stranded yet.

I carry a led light, light blanket, full set of wrenches, screwdrivers, etc.

Made it out to my Radio Control flying field and had some fun.

Be putting it away for the winter this weekend and setting up the booth again to finish the bed and rear fenders.

[jagnweiner]

fliboy-

Just read through your thread. Great work! I'll be following the future progress. Where (generally) in IL are you? I'm always looking for nearby barners (and RC flyers).

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by jagnweiner

fliboy-

Just read through your thread. Great work! I'll be following the future progress. Where (generally) in IL are you? I'm always looking for nearby barners (and RC flyers).

Thanks, up by grayslake area.

[mrfliboy]

Let the surgery begin! Next pile of rusty gold. Dragged out a table form the corner of the garage. Built this probably 20+ yrs ago. LOL

Decided on the tailgate first, I can truly say the tailgate is all original to the truck.

I'll let the pics do the talking. Top and bottom tubes are from the bed sides.

Just have it in mock up stage, til after the metal treatment and than weld her up.

The '39 bed sides are on the table now. I'll be using flat pcs from the original bed sides to do all the patches on the '39 bed also.

[mrfliboy]

Starting on the drivers side panel first.

Removal of the diy bumper and tailgate slides proved fun. Welds and brazes galore. Drilled out spot welds thru the stake bed pockets. These along with the rear frame member will be ordered.

Removed the inner frame, cut out the bad, replace with metal, weld grind and repeat.

Passenger side started.

[dwaynec]

Looking Good!

I am jealous as I have none of your talent/skill.

It will be great when you get it done.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by dwaynec

Looking Good!

I am jealous as I have none of your talent/skill.

It will be great when you get it done.

Thank you, its really been a fun project.

[mrfliboy]

Early Christmas,

Ordered the parts from Northern Classic Trucks, yesterday 7:30am and on my doorstep 11:15am today. Hats off for 37 years of Ford products.

Gotta love the mock up stages.

[sugarmaker]

Very nice documentation! You make it look much easier than it is! Wish I had your body work skills. I read the whole thread! The truck looks just awesome!
Keep up the good work, inspiring us!
Regards,
Chris

[stangblue]

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My mailman always said he wished we were neighbors! mrfilboy I'm returning the compliment to you. Great work!

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by sugarmaker

Very nice documentation! You make it look much easier than it is! Wish I had your body work skills. I read the whole thread! The truck looks just awesome!
Keep up the good work, inspiring us!
Regards,
Chris

Thanks, not a lot of skill, camera helps LOL

Originally Posted by stangblue

My mailman always said he wished we were neighbors! mrfilboy I'm returning the compliment to you. Great work!

Took me awhile to understand. Lol Thanks for the compliment.

[bfoley]

Glad to see the bed is coming along. What are you plans for the floor? Repop? I'm excited to see how the rear fenders turn out!

[TJ]

Since you used the VW stabilizer on the steering you can use another VW part on your pickup. The turn signal switch from an early VW bus works perfect on your column. It clamps to the column and you can paint the housing the same color as the column. It actually looks like something Ford would have used as an accessory. Used one on my 41 pickup.

[40fordpu]

Great Thread. Great truck. Lots of questions but I am at the stage of pulling the cab off for metal repair. What order did you replace the floor in? My biggest question is did you weld new metal next to old metal??? If so how and if not what did you do to make sure you didn't burn holes in the old, rusted metal? Thanks

[Tinker]

Looking great man! Nice work!!!

How do you eat a train? one bite at a time. ha ha

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by bfoley

Glad to see the bed is coming along. What are you plans for the floor? Repop? I'm excited to see how the rear fenders turn out!

Have not decided on floor, will be wood, as original, but not the metal covering. More than likely a full size rubber mat is all.

Dreading the rear fenders for sure, but with 2 beat up sets how hard can it be.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by TJ

Since you used the VW stabilizer on the steering you can use another VW part on your pickup. The turn signal switch from an early VW bus works perfect on your column. It clamps to the column and you can paint the housing the same color as the column. It actually looks like something Ford would have used as an accessory. Used one on my 41 pickup.

Now there's a idea I like. Thanks

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by 40fordpu

Great Thread. Great truck. Lots of questions but I am at the stage of pulling the cab off for metal repair. What order did you replace the floor in? My biggest question is did you weld new metal next to old metal??? If so how and if not what did you do to make sure you didn't burn holes in the old, rusted metal? Thanks

Thanks for the comments.

Tough question, I tried the best of my garage ability to remove all the rusted metal, some areas I left but did treat with rustblast to help delay the cancer.

Burning holes thru is just one of those things, I did end up seam sealing the underneath before painting just in case any small pinholes were there.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Looking great man! Nice work!!!

How do you eat a train? one bite at a time. ha ha

As always Thanks. Been on a brief hiatus from the garage, too cold and a little burned out. How is your's coming along.

[Tinker]

I'm waiting for spring time to paint the bed and rear fender.
Installing the side windows this week or next, that'll be interesting.

[mrfliboy]

Back in action again.

Decided to repair front panel of bed, small bent strip on bottom edge was all that was needed.

Passenger side panel was next. 3 lower sections needed replaced and lots of hammering of the back tailgate area needed.

Gotta love mockup stages, had to assemble whole bed to assure back stake pockets would be correctly aligned.

Next was to strip all the paint off, clean with aquakleen, treat with rust blast, rinse and repeat on all the panels.

Rear fenders are on the bench now.

[Tinker]

Nice work! What mig and mig wire are you using, if i can ask?

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Nice work! What mig and mig wire are you using, if i can ask?

Thanks

Migwelder is a Solar 2120, that I purchased over 20yrs ago, when doing my VW. I use .023 wire with Argon/CO2 mix.

Lays a nice bead when everything is correct, or when the stars and universe align properly. LOL

[Tinker]

Need to get some thinner wire. using .035 now. Great all around wire but is tricky for sheet metal. Is it also "easygrind" wire?

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Need to get some thinner wire. using .035 now. Great all around wire but is tricky for sheet metal. Is it also "easygrind" wire?

No "easygrind" here, I actually get it from my local Ace Hardware. Just mig wire. I was actually using .025 to begin with and changed to .023, made a big difference.

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by mrfliboy

No "easygrind" here, I actually get it from my local Ace Hardware. Just mig wire. I was actually using .025 to begin with and changed to .023, made a big difference.

I'll have to pick some up. Thanks!

[40fordpu]

Are you putting your bed back together using the rivets or welding it? If rivets, how did you do it? What tools??

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by 40fordpu

Are you putting your bed back together using the rivets or welding it? If rivets, how did you do it? What tools??

I believe welded. No official decision yet.

[mrfliboy]

Fenders and more fenders, lol. Passenger side has approx. 20' of weld done and drivers maybe 8'. Was able to use 99% original Ford metal.

Anyone keeping track, green is 1939 bed and fenders I picked up, black is from my original 1941.

[mrfliboy]

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Drivers side went well. Also got my bed frame rails treated and welded to bed sides.

Truck brought in and starting on final mockup for bed and fenders.

I can truly see the light at the end of the tunnel.

PS, since I had the truck out from under its winters rest, I had to do a quick 20 mile trip with the truck Ran great.

[dwaynec]

You are really doing a great job on the truck. It is nice that you can drive and enjoy it.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by dwaynec

You are really doing a great job on the truck. It is nice that you can drive and enjoy it.

Thanks, that little 20 mile drive gives me all the encouragement I need to finish. More than likely final paint on bed will take place next winter. Summertime is drive time.

[37coop]

followed this all the way,making my mouth water ,I just love working on these vehicles,probably more than driving them,seeing a craftsman produce such work is a joy indeed,feel proud of yourself.....well done.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by 37coop

followed this all the way,making my mouth water ,I just love working on these vehicles,probably more than driving them,seeing a craftsman produce such work is a joy indeed,feel proud of yourself.....well done.

Thank you very much, totally agree with working on these vehicles, having way too much fun. But am so glad metalworking is over.

[Ken Crans]

That was the best part of my resto was all the metal work i had to do. Looking good. Nice work.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Ken Crans

That was the best part of my resto was all the metal work i had to do. Looking good. Nice work.

Thanks

[mrfliboy]

Another Mock up. Final fitting of bed, fenders and tailgate.

Local lumber yard had a clearance rack and picked up the plywood for $9.99. Will be nice base for whatever I decide is going on top.

A little taller in the back than I want. Did the mandatory ride around the block. No rattles and nothing fell off.

Next on the list, get it all in sealer, start the bodywork finishing, and get it ready for final paint.

[Mart]

Yes, it is running a lot of rake. You couldn't tell that intil the bed and fenders were in place. A bit of altitude adjustment and if your previous work is anything to go by, it will turn out great.

Mart.

[Tinker]

I used a reverse eye in the rear. getting closer, looking great!

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Mart

Yes, it is running a lot of rake. You couldn't tell that intil the bed and fenders were in place. A bit of altitude adjustment and if your previous work is anything to go by, it will turn out great.

Mart.

Thanks, my wife mentioned it looked a little tall when it was in the garage on the jack stands. She has the eye.

Originally Posted by Tinker

I used a reverse eye in the rear. getting closer, looking great!

Thanks, looking at all my options.

[cmbrucew]

Picture 8 someone stole first base.
Lookin good.
Bruce

[Tinker]

As you know you can de-arch, remove springs, reverse, drop shackles, or lower the cross member.

Wonder why it's so high... seems way beyond stock.

No doubt you'll figure it out. Hey that rhymes. I'm a poet and didn't even know it. Pretty lame huh

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by cmbrucew

Picture 8 someone stole first base.
Lookin good.
Bruce

Thanks

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Tinker

As you know you can de-arch, remove springs, reverse, drop shackles, or lower the cross member.

Wonder why it's so high... seems way beyond stock.

No doubt you'll figure it out. Hey that rhymes. I'm a poet and didn't even know it. Pretty lame huh

LOL

Well got me a little baffled anyway. Here's a shot of the rear end. Tonight I'll try and find the old shackles and compare lengths.

I've studies my older original pics, all I can tell (remember almost broke frame) is the running board height was below the rear axle and the shock arms were close to parallel to ground. Not so now.

[Tinker]

I did a Posies superslide reverse eye in the rear with standard sized shackles.

Probably took it down around 3-4 inches.

Before...


After... (I'm using a 7.00 tire all around)

[mrfliboy]

Decided to try and lower it myself with what is available in my garage.

Homemade spring spreader to relieve some pressure, jackstands under frame, and jack on hub.

Was able to remove original (aftermarket) shackles with no trauma involved.

Local lumber yard 1_1/2" x 1/4" x 36" metal, cut in quarters and holes drilled, one side 1/2" for the sweg stud, other side 3/8" for threaded end. Used the original studs from the aftermarket shackles.

Raised rear end, slipped in new shackles, Start to finish under 4 hours.

Drove it a couple miles, rode perfect, with no noticeable sway, but I'll install a panhard this weekend, when I remove the wood floor.

Now that's the look I want.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Tinker

I did a Posies superslide reverse eye in the rear with standard sized shackles.

Probably took it down around 3-4 inches.

Before...


After... (I'm using a 7.00 tire all around)

Thanks for the pics.

[mrfliboy]

Needed a new lawnmower, what better first use of the truck. Really running nice.

[JSeery]

LOL, putting it to use!

[bfoley]

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Originally Posted by mrfliboy

Needed a new lawnmower, what better first use of the truck. Really running nice.

The franken-box turned out really good! Did you have a floor or did you buy aftermarket?

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by bfoley

The franken-box turned out really good! Did you have a floor or did you buy aftermarket?

For just this summer, I put in a 3/4" ply floor, $9.99 on clearance. Lol. I plan on putting some type of cover, canvas or a tonneau this summer, and than bodywork and paint over the winter.

[mrfliboy]

Purists Look Away!

Needed away to haul my planes safely so ...

I finished up my Tonneau cover. Junkyard special, from Dodge Dakota 2001, stored on a rack in the weather. $40

Pressure washed and loaded up the tire dressing spray on it.

Cut down frame 14-1/2"

Weld tabs onto bed

Cut down canvas, have local upholsterer sew. $40

Hardly noticeable side profile....Priceless

[38bill]

FYI: Don't get rid of the old shackles. Those Posie springs will settle quite a bit. Over 15K miles I had to shorten the shackles on my truck to retain tire clearance three times and I am now down to about stock length.

[FHFD]

Great build, nice documentation..any updates?

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by FHFD

Great build, nice documentation..any updates?

Thank you very much. Updates....... well it was either finish the bed, bodywork and paint, etc or fix the low end knock in my motor this winter.

Motor won. Will have full details when all finished. Its a whole story by itself. LOL

[VeryTangled]

Hi Everyone. An RC Floatplane? Now THAT'S taking it to another level!

Now back to the story of what happened with the engine...

[mrfliboy]

Good eye. Here's a shot from Minnesota.

Lots of fun, my other hobby for the past 25yrs.

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by VeryTangled

Hi Everyone. An RC Floatplane? Now THAT'S taking it to another level!

Now back to the story of what happened with the engine...

About the motor let's just say I'm 6 months into it and it's still not done. Should have solid update when up and running in a month or so.

[Vintage Copper 47]

I would never "lower" a truck.. they are designed to carry loads.. and besides the cool factor; a lowered truck is harder to do repair work underneath.. JMO

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Vintage Copper 47

I would never "lower" a truck.. they are designed to carry loads.. and besides the cool factor; a lowered truck is harder to do repair work underneath.. JMO

Wow Tough Crowd LOL

[mrfliboy]

On to the next step,

Let's rebuild a motor. The fact I got to drive the truck the season was a bonus. I had a low end rod knock over 45mph. So kept it close by and waited to winter to rebuild.

Hoping for a quick fix and ends in full rebuild. 6 weeks takes 6 months.

Price well we all know how that turns out.

I'll let the pictures do the talking.

Phase 1 teardown:

[Tinker]

Doh

[mrfliboy]

So what I found was a couple things. 2 quarter sized holes in the 2 rear cylinders, motor had already been punched out to 3.1875, 0.020 over.
Crank had rod journals turned over .030, and main journals were shot.

So block goes to machine shop, 2 sleeves installed and bored to .060.

I found a great crank from H&H Flatheads, main and rod bearings, I also had Mike recondition my rods.

All my other engine parts came from Van Pelt Sales. Great people to deal with.

Machine said 2-4 weeks and ends up being 6 months, I guess thats the way machine shops work. LOL

[mrfliboy]

Finally engine assembly can begin. I have 4 different books to go by and all had something to help. Major one was Ol Rons floater bearings book and Mike's assembly book.

[Mart]

Looks like a nicely thought out rebuild.

[mrfliboy]

20psi cold cranking, did not deem necessary to fire on ground, lets get it in the truck.

Sure glad I love doing this. LOL

[mrfliboy]

Originally Posted by Mart

Looks like a nicely thought out rebuild.

Thank you, took way longer than expected, with quite a few hiccups along the way. A learning experience I will remember for sometime.

Traveling now, so might be awhile before finishing this project.

[mrfliboy]

https://youtu.be/kn6fBvjL71Y


Thanks to all that have helped out. The trip is over, I'm calling it done. (Wife says when the spare tire is on)

Might continue on the hamb, if time permits.