Coolant in the oil pan

[Indy30a]

Hello, new to the forum
I have a 30 A roadster with I believe a b engine
And went to change the oil after it has been setting all winter in my garage and found a small amount of coolant in the oil
I'm guessing I have a bad head gasket
Any though tips or advice on this issue would be greatly appreciated

[captndan]

Finish up with the oil change then retorque the head. Fire it up and look for signs of leakage. Check the radiator for bubbles and check back here.

[wrndln]

There are several stop leak products including Irontite. After changing the oil, retorquing the head, you could try a "stop leak" product and see what happens. I wouldn't put antifreeze in the engine if there is a leak, as I don't think antifreeze in oil get along together well. Good luck trying to stop the leak.
Rusty Nelson

[Big hammer]

Anti freeze in oil = engine overhaul, it wipes out the bearings and crankshaft + camshaft
Don't ask me how I know

[JOHN CT]

I would do a compression test to. If there's antifreeze in the radiator I would definitely get it out before you start that motor again.

[cpf240]

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Are you sure it was coolant? Perhaps it is just condensation from sitting?

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by cpf240

Are you sure it was coolant? Perhaps it is just condensation from sitting?

My thoughts too...100% verify it was coolant and not just condensation.

A leak down test will let you know if you have a coolant leak (maybe) unless its a crack in the block from water jacket to pan. Modern cars with pressurized systems you can lightly pressurize the coolant system and see where it dribbles out. Not sure if I would put the model A radiator under a whole lot of pressure...

[RawhideKid]

Originally Posted by Indy30a

Hello, new to the forum
I have a 30 A roadster with I believe a b engine
And went to change the oil after it has been setting all winter in my garage and found a small amount of coolant in the oil
I'm guessing I have a bad head gasket
Any though tips or advice on this issue would be greatly appreciated

First off, Welcome to the Barn.

Now, with regard to the dampness... How was this car stored? In an enclosed temperature controlled, humidity controlled environment? You say your "garage", is that connected to the house with a service porch and laundry area?
Exactly how long was it stored? Where do you live would be a help too?
If the amount of liquid in the oil is less than say a teaspoon, I wouldn't worry too much as that could be condensation from atmosphere. If it was more like a cup, I would first torque the head and run it a bit to see if that cleared it up. Oh, another thought, is this your first winter storage and spring wake-up for the car, if not, what happened the last time?

Was the motor started anytime during the storage, and if so, how long was it run? Was this a particularly cold and damp winter where you live?

Just because there is wetness in the oil it is not time for a complete motor rebuild.

How did you determine it was actually "coolant" in the oil? Was it filled with antifreeze before packed away, and this liquid you found in the oil the same color as the coolant?

Sorry to ramble, but just because the oil has another liquid in it, doesn't mean you need to have a panic attack.

There are a few more questions that need to be addressed before an informed answer can be attained.

[Special Coupe Frank]

I second / third / fourth to recommendations to drain the cooling system, flush, and refill with straight water, and run that way until you are DEAD CERTAIN the leak is fixed.

Antifreeze in the oil WILL destroy the babbit. PERIOD.

Make there is an ignition cable-clamp under # 8 head-nut, or a stack of washers ot substitute. W/o one or the other, this nut can bottom on the upper threads before sufficiently clamping the gasket in the this spot. This stud is approx 1/4-3/8" longer than the rest of the "short" studs. This is a common problem on A's.

Good Luck !

[Benson]

Was radiator full when it went into storage?

Was antifreeze strong enough to prevent freezing?

How much antifreeze is/was missing from the radiator when you changed the oil?

If leak is in top of valve chamber (if block froze over winter) you could have a small amount in the bottom of oil pan BUT have a 1/2 of a quart in dipper tray .

SINCE this is a Model B engine the large holes in bottom of the valve chamber will drain the coolant down into the dipper tray

Coolant in dipper tray is bad news for main and camshaft bearings and rod bearings.

If level of coolant is down very much or you do not know how much was in radiator, I would NOT start engine until you are sure that there is NO coolant in areas mentioned above.

[captndan]

One more question. When you drained the oil did it look like oil or chocolate milk? This could be a game changer.

[ursus]

Benson above raises an important point about an inherent weakness of the Model-B engine - its propensity to form cracks in the roof of the valve chamber. These can spread into a web of tiny cracks running in all directions that are slight but can add up to a lot of coolant loss over time. This may be a difficult place to check with a Magnaflux because it seems to get missed when the block is checked.

[Fred K-OR]

Welcome to the form! Looks like you already have some good advise above. Good Luck with your checkout.

[H. L. Chauvin]

Just in case a Model A "Coolant Leak Fix" is assumed to be as simple as:

"Drain the anti-freeze, fill the radiator with non-harmful water, and change oil."

With Model A engine oil temperatures exceeding 212 degrees, some may assume that operating a Model A engine with water in the oil, (hence, forming steam in circulating oil), may be fine and OK; however,

if one can ever reach this mechanical level of Mind-Over-Matter, it is time for this person to plant silver dollars in his backyard and reap the benefits of having a Silver Dollar Orchard.

[Indy30a]

Ok
Thanks for all the advise I will try to address the questions best I can
The car stays in a heated attached garage with the laundry facilities inside as well
So it doesn't get below freezing (actually doesn't get below 50) motor was not started during the winter in fact I have been having trouble firing it now and the car did not get driven at all last year, the car has set for a few years prior to me obtaining it I have had it about 4 yrs drove it some the first two years,
The amount of coolant? More than a teaspoon but less than a cup. When I pulled the drain plug a small amount of pure green coolant came out first then oil.

[Indy30a]

Also
I live in Brownsburg Indiana, just outside Indianapolis

[cpf240]

Originally Posted by Indy30a

Also
I live in Brownsburg Indiana, just outside Indianapolis

If you go into the User CP, you can add that to your profile, and it will show up under your name and icon when you post.

And thank you for the update! I'm interested to hear what you find!

[Synchro909]

As Ursus said above, the B engines are VERY prone to cracks. Seems Henry went backwards when he developed the B engine. Maybe it was scrimping on $ during the depression but they are not much good.
Do you have a rebuildable A block?
Any attempt to repair the block using an additive to the water might work. It's worth a try but keep a close eye on things when you do. You might be lucky and the coolant hasn't got to the bearings but I'd check them before I ran the engine.
Good luck with it and keep us informed, please.

[Indy30a]

I don't have an A block, I have and would consider building an A block motor if I can find one
Thanks

[H. L. Chauvin]

Per Reply #15, maybe off of the Coolant In Oil Subject, maybe not your particular case:

But for anyone who may ask, Model A's plus laundry driers or water heaters in garages can spell disaster if dryer or WH is gas operated.

Natural gas fumes & propane fumes rise; however, fumes from liquid gasoline drop down below and they cling to the floor.

If wanting to know what can possibly happen when "any" gasoline fumes get close to a gas WH gas pilot light, (from vehicles or stored gasoline containers), you can call your local Fire Marshal to describe what is allowed in "Car Garage" Building Codes as it pertains to personal Life Safety and Building Safety requirements.