Replacing Water Pump

[Dennis D 1929]

Wow , What a long, cold, hard winter. Time to start working on the old 1929 "A" again. First up is a new water pump. Bought the Leakless A-8503-A from Synder's and I have a few questions. I think the radiator is gunked up pretty good so I'll want to clean it out before I install the new pump. Any suggestions on what flush or cleaners to use and HOW to do it ? Only thing I have is a back yard garden hose. Also , any pointers on replacing the pump ? Thanks in advance.

[mfarley]

Run a degreaser in the system for a few days, like Simple Green, then a product like Rust911 or Thermocure for a few days as well. Replace the water pump studs with the fool 'em bolts like Bert's sells. Switch to a cast aluminum fan.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by mfarley

Run a degreaser in the system for a few days, like Simple Green, then a product like Rust911 or Thermocure for a few days as well. Replace the water pump studs with the fool 'em bolts like Bert's sells. Switch to a cast aluminum fan.

X2, rust 911/thermocure can leave in longer up to weeks if necessary, and repeat treatments till you are satisfied.
Backflush between treatments.

[Dennis D 1929]

Thanks guys for the input. Question- Do I just add these products to the current antifreeze solution ? Or should I drain and fill with water, then add the cleaners ? Also if the car has "studs" not bolts, will I have to remove the rad ? Hard job ? Also "studs" in a car that old sounds like they may be hard to remove (???)

[WHN]

How old is the radiator, has it repainted, are you replacing the fan to?

If radiator is old and has been repainted any number of times. I would spend the money and replace it while you have it out.

Same with the fan. If it’s old, don’t take a chance of it breaking at speed. Replace with the new aluminum two blade.

Now your cooling system is done.

Pump goes on very easily especially with radiator removed. Enjoy.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

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You usually drain and back flush 1st with water. Always backflush on radiator so any rust scale in your system does not get into the radiator tubes and plug it up.


Once running clean and no rust scale debris and water runs clean. Put hoses back on, add the proper amount of rust911/thermocure and fill cooling system. Rust 911 and thermocure are concentrate you add water to.


There are many types of methods, mine is not the only one.


To build a flush and back flush adapter for the hose, I went to the Auto parts store and bought automotive freeze plugs that fit inside the lower hose, and one for the upper coolant hose (upper and lowers are different sizes. Went to the hardware store and bought a couple of garden hose repair ends Drilled a hole in the freeze plugs undersize for the repair hose ends, and inserted them through the freeze plugs., also added an on off valve. Put the freeze plug in the coolant hose and use the existing hose clamp. If they do not fit type wrap around the plug with electrical or friction tape.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Forgot to mention, until you have a good cooling system, use water. That is what you should use with Thermocure and Rust 911. Keep using water until you are satisfied the cooling system is good/leak free. Hot antifreeze makes a mess and is hard on paint.


Once ok, it is up to you if you want to use antifreeze, or distilled water with rust inhibitor. What to use is similar to questions like what is best oil, best battery, etc. Lots of discussion with people convinced what they do is best.

[Bruce of MN]

Here is my back flush adapter:

[IMG][/IMG]


The ring inside the hose is 1.75" holesawed from a 2x4 with a 1" hole in the center, opened up a little bit for the 3/4" npt/female hose adapter fitting.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by Bruce of MN

Here is my back flush adapter:

[IMG][/IMG]


The ring inside the hose is 1.75" holesawed from a 2x4 with a 1" hole in the center, opened up a little bit for the 3/4" npt/female hose adapter fitting.

I like yours better than mine, more adapter in the hose to keep it stable in the hose.

[Dennis D 1929]

Wow super comments guys. Thank you all for the time explaining the process. Cant wait to get started. FYI- Here in Michigan, I would not dream of not using antifreeze. I would be up all night knowing it's -20F out there.

[Dennis D 1929]

One last question. where do you buy Rust 911/Thermocure ?

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by Dennis D 1929

One last question. where do you buy Rust 911/Thermocure ?

Amazon, ebay, some big box stores, some tractor supply places.


search on line, not sure perhaps Wall mart.


I have used amazon, and Farm and Fleet here locally in Wisc.

[Bruce of MN]

This worked for me: https://evapo-rust.com/thermocure/

I think I got it at Walmart.

[Bruce of MN]

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

I like yours better than mine, more adapter in the hose to keep it stable in the hose.

You may use it with my compliments!

[1crosscut]

You will not necessarily need to remove the radiator from the car to replace the water pump. You can remove the hood, hoses then take the support rods off of the radiator and lean it forward towards the head light bar. At least that was all I needed to do on my truck.
Remember to cover the radiator on the water pump side with a heavy cardboard to protect it.

If you do remove the radiator seal off the lower outlet and the overflow tube. Put 1 gallon of Simple Green in it and put on the cap. Invert it top to bottom several times and let it sit. Repeat several times a day for a couple three days. Will get the grease and grime out quite well.

Taking out the studs from the block can go easy or sometimes not. Double nut them after the pump is removed and see if they will turn out. If you are not game for removing a broken stud from the head don't crank on them too hard. If too tight you can try heating each stud with a torch and letting it cool down completely a few times. Try to back them out when the stud is cold. You can cool them quickly with a wet rag or spray bottle with water. The shock of going quickly to cold from hot will help.