Shock Absorber Rebuild Kits...

[Steve Plucker]

Some of you have more than likely rebuilt your own Model A/AA Shocks utilizing the rebuild kits which the Model A/AA Ford dealers supply.

What particular items, if any at all, that you used could be improved on to make the job better?

Also, what product did you use to make the shock not leak after restoration?

Thanks.

Pluck

[Kurt in NJ]

When I did my shocks(1972) there were kits they came with several sizes of formed shaft seals, a thicker one could be used on a shaft that had some wear on the seal surface, they were solid rubber, not with fabric or threads molded in, the kit came with 10 of them or so, the kid did more than 4 shocks, I don't know what is available now, about 5 years ago I looked at the kits available, not the same, one kit just had fat o- rings for shaft seals, another had formed seals but no assorted thicknesses---- I have 2 shocks that leak some, I have looked in the bins of the local hydraulic hose and cylinder repair place, the large oring, lead shot, steel balls no problem finding

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Steve Plucker

Some of you have more than likely rebuilt your own Model A/AA Shocks utilizing the rebuild kits which the Model A/AA Ford dealers supply.

What particular items, if any at all, that you used could be improved on to make the job better?

Also, what product did you use to make the shock not leak after restoration?

Thanks.

Pluck

Steve, are you asking about 'Rebuild' kits, -or Repair kits?


To properly rebuild or restore these shocks at minimum requires a rotary table on a milling machine along with a welder and a lathe. To repair the surfaces inside that are worn requires a radial skim cut taken on the housing, and then the wings on the stator need to be welded and machined to fit the housing bore properly. Otherwise the oil bypasses the stator instead of being channeled thru the valve. I purchased all of the rebuilding tools and tried to restore a set, and I have more time in the rebuilding process than what I can purchase new Stipe shocks for. Like Kurt, it has been several years since I saw a gasket set, but for what I saw, they were adequate if the job providing you did the machine work too.

[Richard Lorenz]

Assuming that your shock is in decent shape, be sure to polish the surfaces on the shaft and cover where the fat rubber seal is.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Had mine rebuilt by a gentelan on the posted website list - 5. No known website: John Holland (330-483-3896) (Ohio).


Have also heard good things about him here and other places. Was very willing to talk/educate me over the phone, seemed very knowledgeable and has been rebuilding them for a long time.


Besides tips you get here, perhaps call him and pick his brain?

[Steve Plucker]

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Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

Steve, are you asking about 'Rebuild' kits, -or Repair kits?


To properly rebuild or restore these shocks at minimum requires a rotary table on a milling machine along with a welder and a lathe. To repair the surfaces inside that are worn requires a radial skim cut taken on the housing, and then the wings on the stator need to be welded and machined to fit the housing bore properly. Otherwise the oil bypasses the stator instead of being channeled thru the valve. I purchased all of the rebuilding tools and tried to restore a set, and I have more time in the rebuilding process than what I can purchase new Stipe shocks for. Like Kurt, it has been several years since I saw a gasket set, but for what I saw, they were adequate if the job providing you did the machine work too.

Yes Brent...just the gasket kit that they supply for about $22-26.00.

Thanks.

Pluck

[jw hash]

years ago I had Robert Paul rebuild my shocks for me, then I started rebuild my own. at the time Snyder`s was the only one that sold a kit with the correct shaft seal, all the rest of the venders just sold a big fat O ring. now even Snyder`s kits come with a O ring with back rings. so I`m always on the look out for the original type seal.

[whirnot]

I had mine rebuilt by a very reputable builder, and as can happen, it took me three years to get them put on. One looks like it leaked a bit after being put on, not much, but seems to have stopped. Is it possible the leak was caused by them laying on the shelf horizontally instead if the normal vertical position? I haven't checked yet but don't think it's empty.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

So that we are clear here with the descriptions we are using, -to my knowledge, all that John and the late Mr. Paul are/were doing is cleaning the internals, making sure the needle will seat, installing a new check valve and installing a gasket set. Is this correct?

Originally Posted by whirnot

I had mine rebuilt by a very reputable builder, and as can happen, it took me three years to get them put on. One looks like it leaked a bit after being put on, not much, but seems to have stopped. Is it possible the leak was caused by them laying on the shelf horizontally instead if the normal vertical position? I haven't checked yet but don't think it's empty.

Generally it would be the opposite way. I suspect they were leaking at the gland ring due to too much clearance.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

So that we are clear here with the descriptions we are using, -to my knowledge, all that John and the late Mr. Paul are/were doing is cleaning the internals, making sure the needle will seat, installing a new check valve and installing a gasket set. Is this correct?



Generally it would be the opposite way. I suspect they were leaking at the gland ring due to too much clearance.

Hi Brent,
I do not know what he did. I had a box of them, they did not come off a car. I wire wheeled the rust off of them since they had thick rust on them so I could ID them as RH or LH and if they were originals suitable for rebuild/refurbished. Sent him 6-8 shocks and got 4 of them back working and painted. So far 2 summers and a couple of thousand miles, seem to be working well and no leaks.


Other Barn Members also seem to think highly of him, and is why I had him do the work. It could be he refurbishes them as you suggest, not a full rebuild. I suspect mine may have been a rebuild since they were in horrible shape. I did not receive a detailed sheet on what was done/parts usage. If others do not know what John does, he would have to be contacted and asked.