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Old 07-11-2019, 01:37 PM   #1
Classiccanuck
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Default mounting body to frame

I have a 28 Phaeton, I'm now at the point of putting the body onto the frame, not sure of the process with shimming the body blocks to get everything lined up, I had started at the rear and had all doors opening and closing nicely, then the cowl had to be shimmed up to align the hood and that is when I found out I need to start at the cowl and work my way to the back, now the doors are out of wack. Is there any else I should know? or is there a publication on "how to"?
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Old 07-11-2019, 02:46 PM   #2
BRENT in 10-uh-C
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Default Re: mounting body to frame

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Originally Posted by Classiccanuck View Post
I have a 28 Phaeton, I'm now at the point of putting the body onto the frame, not sure of the process with shimming the body blocks to get everything lined up, I had started at the rear and had all doors opening and closing nicely, then the cowl had to be shimmed up to align the hood and that is when I found out I need to start at the cowl and work my way to the back, now the doors are out of wack. Is there any else I should know? or is there a publication on "how to"?


Well, generally speaking as you mentioned you do start at the front on these because you need to set the firewall height to allow the hood to close properly. Then you move your way rearward making adjustments along the way. Another thing we noticed a long time ago was that most of the commercially-available reproduction body blocks were not the correct thickness. It has been too long to remember which ones were off, but that will mess with you also. I have an ongoing list of videos to make, and I guess I'll add shimming the body to the list.
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Old 07-11-2019, 03:02 PM   #3
Classiccanuck
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Default Re: mounting body to frame

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Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C View Post
Well, generally speaking as you mentioned you do start at the front on these because you need to set the firewall height to allow the hood to close properly. Then you move your way rearward making adjustments along the way. Another thing we noticed a long time ago was that most of the commercially-available reproduction body blocks were not the correct thickness. It has been too long to remember which ones were off, but that will mess with you also. I have an ongoing list of videos to make, and I guess I'll add shimming the body to the list.
Thanks, more great news with reproduction parts to deal with LOL! how many shims do you generally start with at the cowl?
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Old 07-11-2019, 04:16 PM   #4
BRENT in 10-uh-C
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Default Re: mounting body to frame

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Thanks, more great news with reproduction parts to deal with LOL! how many shims do you generally start with at the cowl?


None, because the front should just have the rubber pad underneath. If you recall, there is a metal upper and lower piece there that just used wood sandwiched between. Because we fabricate the blocks to the original print on the rest of them, we are generally close. Also, I cannot remember the exact thickness but the original anti-squeak pads used a cotton reinforced pad, and the repros are not the same thickness on those either.
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Old 07-11-2019, 07:47 PM   #5
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Default Re: mounting body to frame

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None, because the front should just have the rubber pad underneath. If you recall, there is a metal upper and lower piece there that just used wood sandwiched between. Because we fabricate the blocks to the original print on the rest of them, we are generally close. Also, I cannot remember the exact thickness but the original anti-squeak pads used a cotton reinforced pad, and the repros are not the same thickness on those either.
Thanks, I'll start with just the rubber pad under the cowl and try the hood for fit then work my way towards the back, thanks for the tips.
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