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Old 06-14-2021, 12:17 AM   #1
ursus
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Default 1930 Running Board removal

I just found that one of the driver's side running board support brackets is cracked and breaking loose. I need to replace that bracket but first the running board has to come off. This is not something I have done before.

If I remove the body bolts on that side, remove the bolts securing the running board to the front and rear fenders, the steering column from its mount on the dash, and remove the four bolts holding the running board to the brackets, will I be able to slide out the running board after raising the body slightly? Am I missing any other details? Thanks!
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Old 06-14-2021, 04:04 AM   #2
shew01
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Default Re: 1930 Running Board removal

Would it be possible to weld the breaking bracket in place with out disassembling?


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Old 06-14-2021, 12:48 PM   #3
ursus
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Default Re: 1930 Running Board removal

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Would it be possible to weld the breaking bracket in place with out disassembling?


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The previous owner had already done that. He welded the bracket directly to the frame and now the bracket is breaking in half just below the weld. It was a messy repair that I think needs a replacement bracket.
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Old 06-14-2021, 05:07 PM   #4
Russell Reay
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Default Re: 1930 Running Board removal

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Originally Posted by ursus View Post
I just found that one of the driver's side running board support brackets is cracked and breaking loose. I need to replace that bracket but first the running board has to come off. This is not something I have done before.

If I remove the body bolts on that side, remove the bolts securing the running board to the front and rear fenders, the steering column from its mount on the dash, and remove the four bolts holding the running board to the brackets, will I be able to slide out the running board after raising the body slightly? Am I missing any other details? Thanks!
I encountered the same problem today, but fortunately I am disassembling the whole car. Both front brackets are broken at the top frame rivet, and both have been welded in place without good results. I would like very much to remove the brackets and properly re-weld the breaks, but that spot is always going to receive the most stress on the whole running board system. In a related matter, both of my boards have a serious belly in them from heavy drivers entering and leaving the cab. They are replacements, not original, and in pretty decent shape otherwise. I can probably re-straighten them, but does anyone know of a technique for adding strength short of welding on a length of 2 x 2 angle iron?
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Old 06-14-2021, 05:50 PM   #5
Big hammer
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Default Re: 1930 Running Board removal

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Originally Posted by ursus View Post
I just found that one of the driver's side running board support brackets is cracked and breaking loose. I need to replace that bracket but first the running board has to come off. This is not something I have done before.

If I remove the body bolts on that side, remove the bolts securing the running board to the front and rear fenders, the steering column from its mount on the dash, and remove the four bolts holding the running board to the brackets, will I be able to slide out the running board after raising the body slightly? Am I missing any other details? Thanks!
On my 31 Tudor I've removed the boards with out raising the body, front and rear fender bolts the bolts from thr boards to brackets the splash shield to boards are not bolted together just lift the outer side of the board. If you raise one side loosen the opposite side body bolts, I don't think you need to remove body bolts
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Old 06-14-2021, 07:06 PM   #6
ursus
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Default Re: 1930 Running Board removal

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Big Hammer has the right idea. Unfortunately, this is one of those "in for a penny, out for a pound" projects because I started with an effort to adjust the driver's door alignment and the running board bracket problem was discovered while I was under the car. In retrospect, I should have been alerted to the cracked bracket by the increasing squeaky noise whenever I got in or out of the car. Now I know the cause.

I think I will leave the running board in place, remove the broken bracket. grind off the welds, and install a new bracket using bolts instead of rivets (it's a driver not a points car). The real impediment with this car is that the previous owner had undercoating applied and they hosed it on pretty thick, the body bolts were like blobs of heavy tar. I had to be careful about using a torch out of fear of setting the car on fire.
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