tough question: does the '29 roadster rattle a lot?

[ericr]

I know this is a vague question, but do the owners of '29 roadsters feel that there is a noticeable amount of rattle and noise, when compared even to the 30-31 roadsters (the later cars seem to have a better-designed body structure)? is there any aspect of our restorations that creates more noise that the cars when new, because we don't or can't duplicate certain aspects of the car's structure.

[Patrick L.]

Heck, I have a '31 and thats how I know how fast I'm going by when what noise or rattle starts or stops.

[burner31]

If your car doesn't shake and rattle when it rolls...it's a reproduction/fake.

[jthomas6]

I have a '28 Roadster that does the same thing - varies depending on speed/road conditions. I had it completely stopped/quiet for about a week and a half - - but then I decided to put the engine back together!

[burner31]

Originally Posted by jthomas6

I have a '28 Roadster that does the same thing - varies depending on speed/road conditions. I had it completely stopped/quiet for about a week and a half - - but then I decided to put the engine back together!

There ya go, spoken like a true Model A'er

[monto]

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Originally Posted by burner31

If your car doesn't shake and rattle when it rolls...it's a reproduction/fake.

Well stated - says it all. Built in Model A Ford Acoustics.

[DougVieyra]

Rattles are like leaks. If it ain't got one (there's supposed to be three), it's broke. I would recommend that you take it to your nearest Ford Authorized Repair Shop and have all non-rattles, non-leaks fixed, so your Model A will once again preform normal - with all of it's leaks and rattles.

[springerpete]

My 29 roadster rattles and squeaks a lot more than my 07 Focus wagon but a lot less than my 25 T roadster pick up. But I find that they are comfortable, reassuring noises and I'd miss them miss they went away.

[klawockvet]

I had Red's build a header for a stock intake manifold but split it into two pipes. Ran two glass packs and ended the pipes at the differential. I can no longer hear any rattles and squeaks.

[Dave in MN]

Eric, With all the jokes the guys are throwing out, I don't think anyone has attempted to seriously answer your question. Most of the quietest open cars are quite a bit noisier than the quietest closed cars. It seems to be part of the inherent design of an open car. I find most of the rattles in an open car come from the doors. Specifically referring to Roadsters, it is possible a 30-31 could be quieter than a 28-29, if it is, it could be due to the placement of door bumpers...although, I don't know if there is much difference...catalogs show 12 rubber door bumpers in both body styles. The 30-31 door height is taller than the 28-29 door, this could result in a different amount of rigidity in the mounting of the door. I can't see much else that would contribute to a difference. After all the years of use these cars have endured, the door gaps, hinge pin fit, body mounting and a list of other areas will not be equal to a new or properly restored car. I think this is what leads to a noisy car. I know it's the cause of the noise in my car.
Now, here's something to consider, I think your car will get quieter the longer you own it. I have found my 29 Phaeton, is getting quieter over the years I have driven it. I know this is true and even mentioned it to my wife late this past summer. She made some reply at the time but I didn't hear what she said. I'm concerned, she's been mumbling a lot lately!
Good Day!

[ericr]

Originally Posted by Dave in MN

Eric, With all the jokes the guys are throwing out, I don't think anyone has attempted to seriously answer your question. Most of the quietest open cars are quite a bit noisier than the quietest closed cars. It seems to be part of the inherent design of an open car. I find most of the rattles in an open car come from the doors. Specifically referring to Roadsters, it is possible a 30-31 could be quieter than a 28-29, if it is, it could be due to the placement of door bumpers...although, I don't know if there is much difference...catalogs show 12 rubber door bumpers in both body styles. The 30-31 door height is taller than the 28-29 door, this could result in a different amount of rigidity in the mounting of the door. I can't see much else that would contribute to a difference. After all the years of use these cars have endured, the door gaps, hinge pin fit, body mounting and a list of other areas may not be equal to a new car. I think this is what leads to a noisy car. I know it's the cause of the noise in my car.
Now, here's something to consider, I think your car will get quieter the longer you own it. I have found my 29 Phaeton, is getting quieter over the years I have driven it. I know this is true and even mentioned it to my wife late this past summer. She made some reply at the time but I didn't hear what she said. I'm concerned, she's been mumbling a lot lately!
Good Day!

thanks for the insight, Dave. I've enjoyed the jibes, too.
the 29 roadster door looks so flimsy, though perhaps it has to flex somewhat in conjunction with the shell of the body. still, I have often wondered about adding a metal plate or brace within it to stiffen it slightly. some members have recently stated recently, in another thread, that various original Model "A" doors had something sprayed inside of them.

[BlueSunoco]

We have had a '28 Roadster, and a '30 Dlx. Roadster both professionally restored cars.

Definitely a difference. The '30 Dlx is not only quieter but it rides and drives like night and day compared to the '28. The '30-'31's are a bit more sophisticated than the '28-'29's.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by klawockvet

I had Red's build a header for a stock intake manifold but split it into two pipes. Ran two glass packs and ended the pipes at the differential. I can no longer hear any rattles and squeaks.

Same philosophy that my wife has in her modern: "I don't hear it when I turn up the radio!"

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Closed cars seem to be more rigid than open cars. I once had a '32 Roadster & it was quieter than a Model A, probably due to the chassis design.
Bill W.

[BrianBurkert]

I have a Brookville repro 31 roadster. I installed the Dynamat acoustic material inside every body panel I could reach. It does a lot to make the body feel more solid with fewer rattles. The wind in the top does make a lot of noise, though, when cruising down the road.

[burner31]

Acoustic material goes in this Winter, after some minor body work.
One of many things on my "Winter to-do list"

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by ericr

thanks for the insight, Dave. I've enjoyed the jibes, too.
the 29 roadster door looks so flimsy, though perhaps it has to flex somewhat in conjunction with the shell of the body. still, I have often wondered about adding a metal plate or brace within it to stiffen it slightly. some members have recently stated recently, in another thread, that various original Model "A" doors had something sprayed inside of them.

I hesitated to write anything at first but I am going to share my personal experiences with having restored numerous 28/29 Roadsters & Phaetons. They do NOT squeak or rattle when they are properly restored. In reality, they are not flimsy or need any stiffeners.

Now it is easy for me to say all of this so please allow me to share some thoughts regarding the reasons many of these cars rattle. Starting with the foundation, originally the frames were straight and the rivets were tight. The cars that rattle and squeak usually have a worn frame that makes the body flex more than it should. How many people install the proper anti-squeak in the proper locations? ( I know what you're thinking, "its only a 'driver' car!! )

Did you install the anti-squeak between the running boards and the running board brackets? What about the anti-squeak between the body apron and the running boards?? (That one is almost always missing! ) What about the anti-squeak above the frame rear crossmember that attaches to the rear seat riser pan??

As far as rigidity of the body goes, did someone install the correct one-piece wood tack strip on the body, ---or did they use one of the reproduction 3-piece wood strips the wood vendors sell? The 3-piece units offer no body rigidity. Ford did it right, ...they didn't!!


To have something rattle, then something must be loose!! So what is loose? Are the door hinge pins tight? If so, they won't let the door rattle. Are the door strikers and the rubber bumpers installed, --and the correct size? What about the rumble/deck lid? Are the guide plates installed and are the lid hinges loose or worn? Are the rubber deck bumpers there?? Do you have reproduction sill plates? If so, they are likely rubbing the body aprons. I could go on and on, but I think you get the jest that just because a car was professionally restored does not mean it was a thorough restoration done properly to original specifications. Many hobbyists are unaware about how to actually restore, so they do the best they can but leave many items in worn conditions which causes those squeaks & rattles. Restore a car correctly and thoroughly and you won't hear a squeak or rattle!!

.

[Fullraceflathead]

I have a "28 Roadster Pick up. Mine only really has one rattle at about 18 - 19 MPH or so. I still haven't been able to figure it out. I can drive thru the rattle then its gone.
I put the rubber bumpers on the doors that were missing. I made new oversize hinge pins, after that no door rattles.

[ericr]

wow, Brent gives quite a list! I'm glad he did.....

those of us that restored" cars back in the '70s or '80s did not have access to the Internet, and written information was minimal, limited to a rehash of the Service Bulletins. Little if any substantive information was available about body restoration.

Had one even known about some of the fine points he lists, supplies were not available through dealers so one would have had to make something personally.....again, without internet access to belting companies etc .

My overall thought about his comments is, it reinforces how difficult it is to properly restore these cars with repro parts.....as if we needed to hear that again.

[Karl Wescott]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

I hesitated to write anything at first but I am going to share my personal experiences with having restored numerous 28/29 Roadsters & Phaetons. They do NOT squeak or rattle when they are properly restored. In reality, they are not flimsy or need any stiffeners.

Now it is easy for me to say all of this so please allow me to share some thoughts regarding the reasons many of these cars rattle. Starting with the foundation, originally the frames were straight and the rivets were tight. The cars that rattle and squeak usually have a worn frame that makes the body flex more than it should. How many people install the proper anti-squeak in the proper locations? ( I know what you're thinking, "its only a 'driver' car!! )

Did you install the anti-squeak between the running boards and the running board brackets? What about the anti-squeak between the body apron and the running boards?? (That one is almost always missing! ) What about the anti-squeak above the frame rear crossmember that attaches to the rear seat riser pan??

As far as rigidity of the body goes, did someone install the correct one-piece wood tack strip on the body, ---or did they use one of the reproduction 3-piece wood strips the wood vendors sell? The 3-piece units offer no body rigidity. Ford did it right, ...they didn't!!


To have something rattle, then something must be loose!! So what is loose? Are the door hinge pins tight? If so, they won't let the door rattle. Are the door strikers and the rubber bumpers installed, --and the correct size? What about the rumble/deck lid? Are the guide plates installed and are the lid hinges loose or worn? Are the rubber deck bumpers there?? Do you have reproduction sill plates? If so, they are likely rubbing the body aprons. I could go on and on, but I think you get the jest that just because a car was professionally restored does not mean it was a thorough restoration done properly to original specifications. Many hobbyists are unaware about how to actually restore, so they do the best they can but leave many items in worn conditions which causes those squeaks & rattles. Restore a car correctly and thoroughly and you won't hear a squeak or rattle!!

.

And to add:

Body to frame blocks in good condition?
Body to frame blocks properly shimmed to frame?
Body to frame bolts tight?
Door hinge bolts tight?
Doors aligned correctly?
Seat back frame tight and installed properly (this provides diagonal stiffness to original body).
All body panel to body panel bolts and rivets in place and tight.

If its squeaking its moving. If its tight its not moving.
Look for any indication of movement (bright metal, damaged paint, etc) then fix.

PS for Brent or others: Was the original 1928-29 tackstrip wood, or steel with tarred fabric insert like 1930-31?