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Old 04-26-2019, 05:36 PM   #21
cas3
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Default Re: my 34 jalopy is alive !

checked my coil at the neighbors today, his meter says the same thing, .7 ohms. i sent an email to skip, have to see what he says
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Old 04-26-2019, 05:42 PM   #22
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Default Re: my 34 jalopy is alive !

You normally want around 3 ohms in the circuit for 12v, so that would require around a 2.3 ohm ballast resistor. A straight 12v on that coil might damaged it, but I don't know about Skips rewinds. Let us know what he has to say.
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Old 04-26-2019, 05:50 PM   #23
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Default Re: my 34 jalopy is alive !

thanks. it never ran straight 12v, it had the chrysler thing on the frame in the photo, had 7.2v on the dizzy side when hot. i need to get a chunk of that special wire for the run to the dizzy too. never knew that before reading bubbas post i put up here
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Old 04-26-2019, 05:58 PM   #24
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Default Re: my 34 jalopy is alive !

Quote:
Originally Posted by cas3 View Post
thanks. it never ran straight 12v, it had the chrysler thing on the frame in the photo, had 7.2v on the dizzy side when hot. i need to get a chunk of that special wire for the run to the dizzy too. never knew that before reading bubbas post i put up here
The ceramic Chrysler style resistors can be different values. You could check it cold, but not sure how much it will change as it heats up. As an example:

NAPA:
•#ICR23 – 1.20 ohms
•#ICR11 – 1.35 ohms
•#ICR34 – 1.40 ohms
•#ICR37 – 1.60 ohms
•#ICR35 – 1.80 ohms
•#ICR13 – 1.82 ohms

Lucas* 3BR (1.3 - 1.4 Ohms)
Mopar* DCC-4529795 (1.40 Ohms)
Accel* ACC-150250 (1.35 Ohms)
Standard* RU-4 (1.35 Ohms)
Standard RU-23 (1.20 ohms)
Standard RU-37 (1.40 Ohms)
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Old 04-26-2019, 06:15 PM   #25
cas3
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Default Re: my 34 jalopy is alive !

thanks, your example looks like what i was seeing at the parts store reading the book the other day. most are slightly above or below 1.5, so if we are trying to reach the number 3, why would the coil be so low, at .7 , and is there going to be a resistor available in the range i need to get to 3 ? perhaps, i didnt read them all at the store !
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Old 04-26-2019, 06:28 PM   #26
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Default Re: my 34 jalopy is alive !

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Most coils are not exactly 1.5 ohms, but in that range. Also, the total resistance doesn't need to be exactly 3.0 ohms, those are just general guidelines. I really have no idea on Skips coils, .7 sounds like a 6v coil to me and one that still requires a ballast even on 6v, but have to see what he says. On a 6v circuit you would want around 1.5, so you would think a .7 coil would require a .7 or .8 ballast. It's partly the current you are trying to limit through the points. I'm a "can" coil guy, so don't know much about the original type of coils.
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Old 04-26-2019, 08:31 PM   #27
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Default Re: my 34 jalopy is alive !

Good to know you are using 12v, don't think it was mentioned before.
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Old 04-26-2019, 10:27 PM   #28
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Default Re: my 34 jalopy is alive !

skip wrote back that i need a ballast for a 59 ford. i gave him all my meter readings, but that was all he wrote. i then googled up 59 ford stuff, and it appears that a standard ru4T is the ballast, but i found no site that would give the resistance # for that unit. i wrote back to skip, asking if that would put me in the desired 3ohms for the system, and no response yet. in my googleing, i came across many threads at various ford sites discussing 50's and early 60's ford ignition systems, and most were talking about the basic 1.5, and 1.5 to get to 3 just as jseery and bubba have pointed to. searched for a 2.3 resistor, and no luck there either. i'll have to go back to the store and look in the book, more info there it seems.
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Old 04-26-2019, 10:49 PM   #29
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Default Re: my 34 jalopy is alive !

late 50s used a ceramic resistor to drop 12v to 6v. Internal resistance in the coil from there. Not the same coil you are using.

little of nothing to add. JohnT post?

https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/c...oolt&th=272559




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Last edited by Tinker; 04-26-2019 at 10:57 PM.
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Old 04-26-2019, 11:49 PM   #30
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Default Re: my 34 jalopy is alive !

i think i found it!!!!!, but ...sadly, its in brazil, and my Portuguese is not too good. 2ohm https://ventro.com.br/produto/resistencia-resistor-bobina-ford-b8e12250-b8a12250-20-ohm_MLB7400618 oh shoot, the link dont work

Last edited by cas3; 04-26-2019 at 11:50 PM. Reason: false info
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Old 04-27-2019, 12:13 AM   #31
cas3
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Default Re: my 34 jalopy is alive !

been googleing till i'm cross eyed, i'm goin to bed. probably will have dreams of the bosch blue dancing around me sticking its tongue out
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Old 04-27-2019, 07:00 AM   #32
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Default Re: my 34 jalopy is alive !

Cool motor, what headers are you running?
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Old 04-27-2019, 08:13 AM   #33
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Default Re: my 34 jalopy is alive !

cas#
12v coil with correct internal resistor is the Bosch Super Blue #00012 an
excellent alternative is the IC 64 or IC 14 from NAPA. If a customer wishes I provide
the NAPA coil and in some cases I get a Super Blue in the NAPA box. This info works
for me and was shared to me by Jim 'Bubba" Linder. I'm quite sure we would be lost
without Jim.
All above coils from Argentina in my experience....fwiw.

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Old 04-27-2019, 12:13 PM   #34
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Default Re: my 34 jalopy is alive !

When do we get to see the fire brethren monster on the road
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Old 04-27-2019, 12:22 PM   #35
cas3
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Default Re: my 34 jalopy is alive !

mr corvette, thanks, those are fenton cast iron headers, just barely fit, and had to make a new dipstick and tube. charlie, thanks, i am aware of the bosch blue, have one here as a matter of fact. just going for the old look, so i had skip build me one. i asked him about making it with an internal resistor, and he stated he wont do that because too much heat in the case

Last edited by cas3; 04-27-2019 at 12:25 PM. Reason: to add
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Old 04-27-2019, 02:32 PM   #36
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Default Re: my 34 jalopy is alive !

That is why a lot of ballast resistors are in ceramic fixtures, they dissipate a lot of heat!
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Old 04-27-2019, 10:05 PM   #37
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Default Re: my 34 jalopy is alive !

I like the idea of using that coil. It's not that common of a coil.


Milled the fentons a 1/8" to clear the steering box and demel relived my fentons a bit to clear the dipstick. They are thick. Good so far. It is tight on the drivers side on fentons.


Couldn't you use 2 resistors inline if you are using a stock ignition? A ceramic yblock to knock it down to 6 then a standard late 30s/ early 40s resistor? or not....

Last edited by Tinker; 04-27-2019 at 10:31 PM.
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Old 04-27-2019, 10:33 PM   #38
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Default Re: my 34 jalopy is alive !

tinker, what are you putting fentons in? i screwed a brake fitting into the dipstick tube boss, same thread, then used a piece of 5/16 line with brake flare end to attach to the boss, then put a S curve in the line to clear the header, the got a wimpy dipstick from a modern car that would go around the corners, and brazed the flathead handle on top. funny thing, i so carefully measured to mark the new stick with a punch mark at the full level. then when i put 5 quarts in the mark is off 1/2" ! oh well, 5q is 5q
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Old 04-27-2019, 10:40 PM   #39
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Default Re: my 34 jalopy is alive !

The 38 truck in my aviator. They were not original fentons. Repos from speedway. 8 yrs now. I have a set of old ones burnt chrome that I would like to use on my 36 if I do a 59 motor for it. Same issue on clearance.


I was able to make it fit. It's a battle between the steering box and the dip stick. Had the intakes of the exhaust (headers) to the block milled 1/8", then relieved the header a bit to clear the dipstick. Was able to keep the rest original. Super tight.


What works, is what works.


https://www.macsautoparts.com/early_...E&gclsrc=aw.ds



https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/8...hoCyKgQAvD_BwE

Last edited by Tinker; 04-27-2019 at 11:12 PM.
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Old 04-28-2019, 01:41 PM   #40
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Default Re: my 34 jalopy is alive !

Yep i too , love the old brown coil !!

Lets get a sheet of paper out and look this over .
We know the coil is .7 ohm and a good skip coil. We also know its a 12 volt car. Then measuring the voltage at the coil we know its 7.2 volts.....
Now total resistance using a guess at the 1.5 value and a .7 ohm coil the total resistance is 2.2 ohms .
2.2 ohms divided into 12 volt battery supply would give us a 5.45 amps primary circuit.
( may be just a little high ).
Multiply the amps x resistance ..... 5.45 x 1.5 ohms would give us a 8.1 volt at the coil.....and a 3.8 volts coil drop...
This is a little unbalanced and may be a little high voltage to the coil as well as amps. More than likely the resistor is actually lower than 1.5 ( like maybe 1.2 etc).
I would suggest increasing the resistance of the resistor to approx 1.5-1.8 etc and run it... A 1.8 resistor would lower the primary amps from 5.45 to 4.8 amps and give the system a little more life overall......

Then the output voltage of the generator running would change the equation as well ........
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