Anybody have any 1934 ford chassis pics?

[Plowboy]

I am assembling all of the parts to put the chassis together for my '34 3 window this winter and was wondering how y'all did yours with your motor/tranny mounts etc just to get some ideas.

My driveline is going to be a 1950 flatty, T5 transmission with a cornhusker adapter, and a quick change rear end. I have an original '32 dropped axle and the rear will be hung with '36 bones....I have a pretty nice original frame for it as well, with stock x member. I hope to adapt the stock pedals to work the clutch and all....

[ford1]

i really dont know what you need in the way of frame pics, but if you type westcott auto in your search box it will take you to there site where you will find a tech drawing of that frame

[Comet]

What are you using for a rear spring with the quickie?

[34coupe]

you might think about using a pre 48 flathead or you will have to recess the fire wall, the later flatheads just won't fit, Dave

[Rem]

Have to agree with Dave about the 8BA flatheads not being a simple bolt-in swap. Space is very tight at the front, with barely enough clearance on a stock 21-stud set-up for the fan belt to go between the front pulley and the U-bolts for the front spring. The 8BA type distributor necessitates a long front pulley, and matching water pumps, to get the fan belt out past the distributor.

If you were using the stock transmission and torque tube, then the only way to put a '49-'53 flattie in there is to raise the front of the engine (use Mercury C-mounts), which I think still requires some massaging of the firewall, or convert the engine to pre-'49 ignition, cam, water pumps, etc., to allow a short crank pulley.

But, with a custom open driveline all you need to do is chop a big hole in the firewall and move the motor back to clear at the front. Not sure if you'll have to notch the middle of the X-member to get the trans through - I'd guess 'yes'?

[Plowboy]

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I am not too worried about the fierewall, it is already butchered, I will have to make a new one anyway.

I have both T and A springs for the rear. Not sure which one I will use yet, whichever one looks best I guess.

I have the westcott diagram, but it does not show you all of the little ins and outs of what you have to notch here and move there.

[hop up]

Mr Plowboy,
You can insert a latemodel flatty with later truck pumps 48-51 and a lower pullie out of the same truck. You'll have to shave one pully as it only came as a double (well I never seen a single). Its easy and you don't have to ratrod the firewall. You pedal set up for juice brake are a easy one , just make sure you can get the pedals Thanks

[Plowboy]

If you shave the outer pulley, then what do most people do for their fan and generator?

I have the stock '34 pedals I was going to try and use....

These are all things I sit and ponder all day while at work...ha ha

[rotorwrench]

One of the best ways to make it fit in the same place as the older style motor is to convert it to early crab style front ignition set up and use the old style pumps with a fan mount on the generator. The motor would nead a cam for a crab distributor and the fan may need some work to fit depending on which one is chosen. This combo should get it pretty close even with the 34 type radiator. All the L-head V8s are pretty buch the same length from the front to the back of the bellhousing whether its a bolt on type bell housing or not.

Kerby