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Old 07-19-2019, 01:41 PM   #1
walkerlakeprinter
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Default Rumble seat pan...help!

I am having trouble re-installing my rumble lid. I bolted the rumble pan in after I had already installed the lower back panel and cannot figure out if the rear of the curved pan is supposed to go under the lip of the lower back panel. I bolted the curved panel to the sides using the holes that were already there, but the rumble lid scrapes the inner curved panel. It seems like the curved panel needs to be lower or farther back. Also, what are the holes in the curved panel upper lip for?



Should I start over? Is there a recommended sequence for installing the floor pan? Do I need to reposition where it bolts to the triangular support piece?



Everything fit ok before I dismantled everything 10 years ago, and these parts are the same!



Word to the wise: when dismantling a Model A, take LOTS of pictures during the process.
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File Type: jpg Rumble2.jpg (55.0 KB, 110 views)
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Old 07-19-2019, 04:05 PM   #2
midgetracer
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Default Re: Rumble seat pan...help!

The curved panel should be lower. The holes on the curved top should bolt to the support across the back. I will try to get a picture later today.
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Old 07-19-2019, 04:33 PM   #3
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Default Re: Rumble seat pan...help!

The lower row of holes...the D nuts is where the curved top of the curved panel attaches. The rest should fall in line after that.
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Old 07-19-2019, 04:47 PM   #4
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Default Re: Rumble seat pan...help!

Thanks, midgetracer. I took the pan back out and now I see the holes in the lower panel where it looks like metal screws will hold it on. I also notice the bolt at the top of the lower panel stick out too far....looks like I should put the head on the inside and the nut to the outside.



So, it looks like I will start with attaching the rumble pan to the back lower panel first, then attach the front of the pan to the crossmember. Then I can see where holes line up on the triangular support in back. It looks like previous owners drilled enough holes to give me a choice! Or drill more. Ha.



Notice how I built a support for the spare tire carrier. I bolted a piece of 3/4 inch board underneath a steel bar drilled for the carrier bolt. It is real solid!


I temporarily put the rumble lid in and it scrapes the top of the lower panel and bumps into the bolts on top. I'll redo the bolts and see how it all works. Too hot right now to work on a black-painted body!
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File Type: jpg Rumble4.jpg (70.8 KB, 74 views)
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Old 07-19-2019, 07:12 PM   #5
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Default Re: Rumble seat pan...help!

it looks like you are trying to install a 30-31 inner panel in a 28-29 body. which is taller than a 28-29 . Roadster bodies use the taller one to, the inner panels are taller. all the cabriolets used the 28-29 coupe inner panel for all 68A-B and C`s. the 30-31 coupe are taller.
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Old 07-19-2019, 11:06 PM   #6
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Default Re: Rumble seat pan...help!

rear of a 29 coupe
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Old 07-19-2019, 11:09 PM   #7
walkerlakeprinter
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Default Re: Rumble seat pan...help!

I don't think so....these are the exact parts that were on my 1929 Special Coupe when I dismantled it about ten years ago. Everything worked back then and everything fit. I am going to work on it again when it's cooler tomorrow morning. I'll stay tuned. I was replying to post #5.

Last edited by walkerlakeprinter; 07-19-2019 at 11:12 PM. Reason: new post came in above
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Old 07-20-2019, 07:37 AM   #8
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Default Re: Rumble seat pan...help!

The curved panel does look long but it's hard to tell from photos. There has been a lot of water under the bridge since 1929. Folks used what they had on hand when repairing these old cars back in the day. Roadsters used the same deck lid but they had to locate it farther up and forward to accommodate the difference in the body from the coupe so the rear inside sheet metal is different due to that. It's possible that someone made do with a longer panel back in the day. Time and fit will tell for sure.
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Old 07-20-2019, 08:49 AM   #9
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Default Re: Rumble seat pan...help!

your lower panel is reproduction,you dont have the inner brace midgetracer showed..some kind of wood and flat bar support for the lower spare tire carrier bolt..
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Old 07-20-2019, 09:57 AM   #10
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Default Re: Rumble seat pan...help!

Hopefully these pictures of an early takeoff rear panel will show. My '31 roadster has an ill fitting repro panel and I was lucky to find this on Ebay. The Kewannee green is almost a match to mine but the darker trim Brewster? isn't.Elkpoint? Hopefully this will show you how it should look and where the curved panel attaches to with # 10 screws.
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Old 07-20-2019, 09:58 AM   #11
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Default Re: Rumble seat pan...help!

Another picture.
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Old 07-20-2019, 10:31 AM   #12
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Default Re: Rumble seat pan...help!

Some more questions! Is the back lower panel supposed to be curved at the top like the back edge of the rumble lid? I bolted the lid in temporarily to see where things fit. I do not have the curved floor pan connected yet, but the lid scrapes on the middle of the top of the lower panel. I'm beginning to think that my home-made wood and steel backup plate is causing the panel to straighten out instead of a gentle curve. Also, the lid is too close to the panel under the rear window. I don't see that there is any way to adjust this. The only thing different from when I dismantled this 10 years ago is a new belt rail.
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Old 07-20-2019, 02:51 PM   #13
rotorwrench
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Default Re: Rumble seat pan...help!

Some of the late reproduction stuff can be made to fit without too much trouble but I remember a time when there was some really poorly made reproduction stuff back when I was younger. I have an old 29 sport coupe body with some of that stuff on it. I'll have to remove it all and get some better parts for that project. Reproduction spare tire mount braces are available too and they look to be the correct shape at a glance. This allowed the panel to have a bit of a curve in it there.
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Old 07-20-2019, 04:57 PM   #14
walkerlakeprinter
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Default Re: Rumble seat pan...help!

I plan to shorten the board behind the steel bar I used to support the spare tire holder. That way, the lower panel can retain a slight curve instead of being flattened out. I'm going to give the rumble lid project a rest while I reinstall the gas tank. That will be a piece of cake, right? Ha!
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Old 07-20-2019, 08:59 PM   #15
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Default Re: Rumble seat pan...help!

The lower pan is curved,as well as the deck lid.I consider the lower panel 'god',I bend the lower edge of the decklid to match its curve.The lower panel ties the rear quarters together, be careful tweaking it.
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Old 07-21-2019, 09:04 AM   #16
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Default Re: Rumble seat pan...help!

Given the condition of your inner fender panels Id be real careful with the lower panel,it might fold like a taco..
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Old 07-21-2019, 10:16 AM   #17
walkerlakeprinter
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Default Re: Rumble seat pan...help!

Ha Ha! Probably right. My car spent most of its life in a damp climate....until I moved her to Nevada 13 years ago. I discovered she was held together mostly by paint and damp wood. I'm having so much fun learning all this stuff.
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Old 07-21-2019, 01:54 PM   #18
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Default Re: Rumble seat pan...help!

I've been to Walker Lake,worked on some tractors at the Paiute Ranch when I was with Cat..yeah,no way that car came from nevada
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Old 07-23-2019, 11:57 AM   #19
walkerlakeprinter
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Default Re: Rumble seat pan...help!

Still puzzling about the best way to brace the spare tire holder to the curved panel. The braces shown in the catalogues and in the above pictures are marked "for the 1930-31, but can be shortened to fit the 1928-1929." Has anyone done that, and how would you go about doing it?
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Old 07-23-2019, 12:39 PM   #20
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Default Re: Rumble seat pan...help!

It's better if you have an original to compare it to even if it's badly rusted. Since that wouldn't be an option, I would choose the area to be sectioned to find a spot where the dimension will still be pretty much the same in shape and cross sectional size for both pieces. The area to cut should leave some similar area left on the other piece then fit it side to side to get an idea where to cut the section out on the second cut keeping the metal to metal cut joint as close and as tight as possible. Fit it up for best fit then tack weld it together with final weld up to follow. A person just needs to make certain they have all the correct related parts to start out with before fitting it all up. Fitting a part to another part that won't fit equals two parts that won't fit. Measuring twice and cutting once is for wood. On steel, cut it a bit long and grind it carefully till it fits.

Last edited by rotorwrench; 07-23-2019 at 12:45 PM.
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