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Old 06-23-2019, 10:30 AM   #1
BRENT in 10-uh-C
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Default Fuel Shut-off Valve Barrel Valve taper

Does anyone have the print of the Fuel Shut-Off valve that can give me the correct taper dimension for the Barrel Valve? I am thinking about having a taper reamer made, and then make a few oversized Barrel Valves where an original valve can have the bore enlarged to remove the gouges where an oversized valve can be lapped in. Thanks.
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Old 06-23-2019, 01:20 PM   #2
J Franklin
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Default Re: Fuel Shut-off Valve Barrel Valve taper

If you are going to make oversize, just make the reamer to match the oversize valve.
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Old 06-23-2019, 08:28 PM   #3
Synchro909
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Default Re: Fuel Shut-off Valve Barrel Valve taper

That seems like a lot of trouble to go to when these work so well - and for only $1.60 a time.
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/P...del-a/gas-tank

It's been years since I installed one of those and still working fine.
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Old 06-24-2019, 11:29 AM   #4
Cool Hand Lurker
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Default Re: Fuel Shut-off Valve Barrel Valve taper

Brent, can't you take apart a good valve and measure the taper angle?
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Old 06-24-2019, 12:21 PM   #5
BRENT in 10-uh-C
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Default Re: Fuel Shut-off Valve Barrel Valve taper

Quote:
Originally Posted by Synchro909 View Post
That seems like a lot of trouble to go to when these work so well - and for only $1.60 a time.
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/P...del-a/gas-tank

It's been years since I installed one of those and still working fine.

That will do a good job as long as the housing or the valve stem is not scored, but if either of them are damaged, the valve will always weep and leak, ...which ultimately defeats the reason for having the shut-off valve.




Thanks everyone for the thoughts. I may be overthinking this but here is why I am going in this direction. To begin with, ...in restoring an original valve, I probably only want to increase the housing bore size by 0.010". That would allow for 0.005" per side which would likely remove any deep scratches or gouges caused from dirt/debris/rust that has scored the valve housing. If I use the same degree of taper as original, then the slightly oversized reamer will pilot off of the existing bore and there will not be a need for building an alignment fixture to center the pilot. If I were to choose a different taper, then the new reamer potentially could rock as it is cutting the new taper, -and it likely would need to remove more material from the housing.


I have not measured a new valve to verify the taper, but I was hoping someone had the print that could look at it. I will purchase the print the next time I am at the archives so I know the exact number. Thanks again.
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