The Ford Barn

FrankWest · 12-20-2014, 07:21 PM

Yes I completely rotated the cam
6 or 7 times to see the points opening and closing

FrankWest · 12-20-2014, 07:28 PM

I want to thank everyone on here for there help. I could not have done it without your experienced know how. One last question.... I here a lot about suppliers of cheap timing gears....No Good.
Where are the best places to buy quality timing gears...
I don't want to replace the crank shaft gear...
If it is possible I would just like to replace the timing gear with the best quality available. Any suggestion would be very much appreciated.
.

Terry,OH · 12-21-2014, 06:54 AM

The gear material is much like Micarda.

V8COOPMAN · 12-21-2014, 10:44 AM

This gear recently discovered in a STILL-running Model A over on their forum. DD

midgetracer · 12-21-2014, 03:36 PM

The best gear available is a bronze gear that Dan McEachern (510-532-8228) makes and sells. His web site is [email protected]. I've used his gear in a B motor with an OHV conversion and it is run hard with no problems. It may be worth a call to him, but the laminated one that Snyders sells should last another 80 years in your car.

FrankWest · 12-21-2014, 06:28 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by midgetracer

The best gear available is a bronze gear that Dan McEachern (510-532-8228) makes and sells. His web site is [email protected]. I've used his gear in a B motor with an OHV conversion and it is run hard with no problems. It may be worth a call to him, but the laminated one that Snyders sells should last another 80 years in your car.

Is there any reason why not to use an aluminum gear over laminated?
Noise, performance, unknown?

FrankWest · 12-25-2014, 03:46 PM

Good news as I hand turned the cam without the timing gear I watched the points and saw the closing and opening in the proper way...The gap is perfect...did not have to adjust///point close and touch and then open..
The engine sounded great before the timing wheel gave out....Looks like the problem was only the broken timing wheel.

FrankWest · 01-30-2015, 09:50 PM

Getting ready to put the timing gear cover back on. The only gasket I could find is a cardboard one. It that the material that is used in this application? Should this be coated with something or just apply a slight amount of contact cement to hold in place and tighten?

DavidG · 01-30-2015, 09:56 PM

Use gasket sealer instead of contact cement, either the silicone or non-silicone variety. The original paper gasket was not that thick. Could you be a little more specific about what you mean by "cardboard".

FrankWest · 01-31-2015, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidG

Use gasket sealer instead of contact cement, either the silicone or non-silicone variety. The original paper gasket was not that thick. Could you be a little more specific about what you mean by "cardboard".

I think it is paper as you said, I bought from Mac's.
Is this the typical gasket sealer material that permetex sells?

DavidG · 01-31-2015, 10:07 AM

Yes.

FrankWest · 03-20-2015, 01:02 PM

It started right up.
Finally completed the work.
New Bronze timing gear does not yet make any extra noise.
Thanks for all your help.
Now, I will start looking at the brakes.
They, work, but want to check them out well before running the car on the road.
Not sure how to start checking them.... any suggestions?

Mart · 03-20-2015, 01:53 PM

Well done Frank.

Can't advise too much on the brakes, I've only ever had hydraulics.

But common sense prevails. Check all the linkages and pivots. Check that everything that should move does freely without excessive free play.

People with more mech brake experience will chime in, I'm sure.

Mart.

1931 flamingo · 03-20-2015, 06:04 PM

FRANK: CONGRATULATIONS ! ! ! ! ! ! !

Paul in CT

DavidG · 03-20-2015, 07:25 PM

Frank,

You've got to start acquiring some printed reference material. As you already know that while this forum is very helpful, that help is by the spoonful. The reprinted '32 service bulletins will inform you well about your brakes and how to adjust them (the '32 and '33-'34 brake system are virtually identical in all respects and in terms of what you you need to know about your brakes they are completely identical).

FrankWest · 03-21-2015, 07:03 AM

I have the service manuals, and several reprinted books also I have the original owners manuals for 4 cylinder and 1933, 1934 too.
My breaks function but. Luckily I live on a cul-de-sac so once I get plate on the car I can begin driving slowly around to check the functions better. The appearance on the brake housing plate cover is rust covered.

Charlie Stephens · 03-21-2015, 08:59 AM

This has probably already been covered but buy a good rear hub puller (or arrange to borrow one). The reproduction KR Wilson puller advertised in the V8 times comes to mind. Get a puller that pulls from the snout of the hub. If the hubs are properly installed (tight) and you try to use a cheap puller you desk damaging expensive parts.

Charlie Stephens

FrankWest · 03-21-2015, 10:59 AM

So you take the wheel off and then the break components are under the cover. The rust covers visible from under the car are not to be monkeyed with, right.

V8COOPMAN · 03-21-2015, 11:38 AM

Those "rust covers" are actually part of the brake thing-a-ma-jiggies. DD

DavidG · 03-21-2015, 11:49 AM

I second Charlie's advice, but do not start checking your brake system at the rear wheels. Start at the front where the hub and drum assemblies are easy to remove and replace. Pull them off one at a time and study what you see against what is shown in the illustration above and that in your service bulletins. Disconnect the brake rod where it attaches to the operating arm behind the brake backing plates and move it back and forth so that you see how the brakes operate and how the various parts relate to one another.

After you are confident that you understand how the brakes function, check the linings for both wear and contamination from grease or oil. Check also to see if the wearing surface on the inside of the brake drums is scored or pitted. If the linings are contaminated or worn down so that the rivet heads are no longer completely below the outer surface they need to be replaced. If they drums are scored or pitted, they should be turned down to a smooth surface (this has to be be done by someone who knows what they are doing as there is limit as to how far the drums can be turned down before they need to be replaced.) Check everything else exposed and attached to the brake backing plate for excessive wear as mechanical brakes can be good brakes, but only if all of the components are free of excessive wear. Now do the same thing for the other front wheel and only then tackle the rear wheels as removing the hubs can be a challenge as Charlie is suggesting.

Once you have checked out all four wheels, check for wear in the clevis pins (one on each end of each brake rod) and in the holes in which each clevis pin is inserted. Check for play in the brake cross shaft assembly on the center cross member (where all four brake rods attach). Wear in the cross shaft bushings is a common occurrence and its presence means that you will never get all four brakes working with the same effort until that wear is eliminated by replacing those bushings (there are better substitutes available today for the bushing material that Ford used originally).

Check for wear on all of clevis pins and their holes in the various arms on the cross shaft and on the rods to the brake pedal and hand brake. Replace any and all that are worn excessively. If the holes in the arms are worn excessively, they can be welded up and re-drilled to their original diameter or if only slightly worn drilled oversize to be used with new over-sized clevis pins (personally, I recommend the former and not the latter cure for wear).

That's enough of a to-do list to start with.

12-20-2014, 07:21 PM	#281
FrankWest Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Posts: 3,005	Re: 1933 can't start after recent restart Yes I completely rotated the cam 6 or 7 times to see the points opening and closing

12-20-2014, 07:28 PM	#282
FrankWest Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Posts: 3,005	Re: 1933 can't start after recent restart I want to thank everyone on here for there help. I could not have done it without your experienced know how. One last question.... I here a lot about suppliers of cheap timing gears....No Good. Where are the best places to buy quality timing gears... I don't want to replace the crank shaft gear... If it is possible I would just like to replace the timing gear with the best quality available. Any suggestion would be very much appreciated. .

12-21-2014, 06:54 AM	#283
Terry,OH Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,743	Re: 1933 can't start after recent restart The gear material is much like Micarda.

12-21-2014, 10:44 AM	#284
V8COOPMAN Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: East Shore of LAKE HOUSTON Posts: 11,106	Re: 1933 can't start after recent restart This gear recently discovered in a STILL-running Model A over on their forum. DD __________________ *Click Links Below* __ ▼ *'35-'36 W/8BA & MECHANICAL FAN* *T5 W/TORQUE TUBE*

12-21-2014, 03:36 PM	#285
midgetracer Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bismarck ND Posts: 1,189	Re: 1933 can't start after recent restart The best gear available is a bronze gear that Dan McEachern (510-532-8228) makes and sells. His web site is [email protected]. I've used his gear in a B motor with an OHV conversion and it is run hard with no problems. It may be worth a call to him, but the laminated one that Snyders sells should last another 80 years in your car.

12-25-2014, 03:46 PM	#287
FrankWest Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Posts: 3,005	Re: 1933 can't start after recent restart Good news as I hand turned the cam without the timing gear I watched the points and saw the closing and opening in the proper way...The gap is perfect...did not have to adjust///point close and touch and then open.. The engine sounded great before the timing wheel gave out....Looks like the problem was only the broken timing wheel.

01-30-2015, 09:50 PM	#288
FrankWest Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Posts: 3,005	Re: 1933 can't start after recent restart Getting ready to put the timing gear cover back on. The only gasket I could find is a cardboard one. It that the material that is used in this application? Should this be coated with something or just apply a slight amount of contact cement to hold in place and tighten?

01-30-2015, 09:56 PM	#289
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,094	Re: 1933 can't start after recent restart Use gasket sealer instead of contact cement, either the silicone or non-silicone variety. The original paper gasket was not that thick. Could you be a little more specific about what you mean by "cardboard".

01-31-2015, 10:07 AM	#291
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,094	Re: 1933 can't start after recent restart Yes.

03-20-2015, 01:02 PM	#292
FrankWest Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Posts: 3,005	Re: 1933 can't start after recent restart It started right up. Finally completed the work. New Bronze timing gear does not yet make any extra noise. Thanks for all your help. Now, I will start looking at the brakes. They, work, but want to check them out well before running the car on the road. Not sure how to start checking them.... any suggestions?

03-20-2015, 01:53 PM	#293
Mart Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Solihull, England. Posts: 8,745	Re: 1933 can't start after recent restart Well done Frank. Can't advise too much on the brakes, I've only ever had hydraulics. But common sense prevails. Check all the linkages and pivots. Check that everything that should move does freely without excessive free play. People with more mech brake experience will chime in, I'm sure. Mart.

03-20-2015, 06:04 PM	#294
1931 flamingo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new britain,ct 06052 Posts: 9,390	Re: 1933 can't start after recent restart FRANK: CONGRATULATIONS ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Paul in CT

03-21-2015, 07:03 AM	#296
FrankWest Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Posts: 3,005	Re: 1933 can't start after recent restart I have the service manuals, and several reprinted books also I have the original owners manuals for 4 cylinder and 1933, 1934 too. My breaks function but. Luckily I live on a cul-de-sac so once I get plate on the car I can begin driving slowly around to check the functions better. The appearance on the brake housing plate cover is rust covered. Last edited by FrankWest; 03-21-2015 at 07:34 AM.

03-21-2015, 08:59 AM	#297
Charlie Stephens Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Southern California Posts: 7,030	Re: 1933 can't start after recent restart This has probably already been covered but buy a good rear hub puller (or arrange to borrow one). The reproduction KR Wilson puller advertised in the V8 times comes to mind. Get a puller that pulls from the snout of the hub. If the hubs are properly installed (tight) and you try to use a cheap puller you desk damaging expensive parts. Charlie Stephens

03-21-2015, 10:59 AM	#298
FrankWest Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Posts: 3,005	Re: 1933 can't start after recent restart So you take the wheel off and then the break components are under the cover. The rust covers visible from under the car are not to be monkeyed with, right.

03-21-2015, 11:38 AM	#299
V8COOPMAN Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: East Shore of LAKE HOUSTON Posts: 11,106	Re: 1933 can't start after recent restart Those "rust covers" are actually part of the brake thing-a-ma-jiggies. DD __________________ *Click Links Below* __ ▼ *'35-'36 W/8BA & MECHANICAL FAN* *T5 W/TORQUE TUBE*

03-21-2015, 11:49 AM	#300
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,094	Re: 1933 can't start after recent restart I second Charlie's advice, but do not start checking your brake system at the rear wheels. Start at the front where the hub and drum assemblies are easy to remove and replace. Pull them off one at a time and study what you see against what is shown in the illustration above and that in your service bulletins. Disconnect the brake rod where it attaches to the operating arm behind the brake backing plates and move it back and forth so that you see how the brakes operate and how the various parts relate to one another. After you are confident that you understand how the brakes function, check the linings for both wear and contamination from grease or oil. Check also to see if the wearing surface on the inside of the brake drums is scored or pitted. If the linings are contaminated or worn down so that the rivet heads are no longer completely below the outer surface they need to be replaced. If they drums are scored or pitted, they should be turned down to a smooth surface (this has to be be done by someone who knows what they are doing as there is limit as to how far the drums can be turned down before they need to be replaced.) Check everything else exposed and attached to the brake backing plate for excessive wear as mechanical brakes can be good brakes, but only if all of the components are free of excessive wear. Now do the same thing for the other front wheel and only then tackle the rear wheels as removing the hubs can be a challenge as Charlie is suggesting. Once you have checked out all four wheels, check for wear in the clevis pins (one on each end of each brake rod) and in the holes in which each clevis pin is inserted. Check for play in the brake cross shaft assembly on the center cross member (where all four brake rods attach). Wear in the cross shaft bushings is a common occurrence and its presence means that you will never get all four brakes working with the same effort until that wear is eliminated by replacing those bushings (there are better substitutes available today for the bushing material that Ford used originally). Check for wear on all of clevis pins and their holes in the various arms on the cross shaft and on the rods to the brake pedal and hand brake. Replace any and all that are worn excessively. If the holes in the arms are worn excessively, they can be welded up and re-drilled to their original diameter or if only slightly worn drilled oversize to be used with new over-sized clevis pins (personally, I recommend the former and not the latter cure for wear). That's enough of a to-do list to start with.