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Old 08-30-2013, 07:47 PM   #1
My3window
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Default 33-34 Woodgraining

Hello out there,
I'm attempting to wood-grain my dash and garnish mouldings using the techniques described in Bob Dunham's 1980 book titled "Wood-graining A New Approach".

Using the acrylic lacquer base coat Dunham recommends and after several attempts to duplicate the burl effect for 33-34 Fords, I finally got it down to a nice look that I'm pleased with. The problem I'm having is the rubber based printer's ink I'm applying looks great on the base coat for about 6 hours but after a day, much of the ink grain disappears/evaporates (leaving too much base coat). After my first effort, I stopped using any printer's ink solvent to lighten the ink.

Today, using only the printer's ink, I tried applying clear acrylic lacquer over one of my garnish moldings that I grained the day before. I allowed the ink to dry 24 hours and the grain looked good when I began applying the clear. However, when the clear dried, I still had loss to the rubber based printer's ink as I had before.

I'm writing this in an effort to learn if anyone else has used the rubber based printer's ink approach to wood-graining and if they have experienced what I am experiencing. It's pretty frustrating after becoming so successful with applying the ink in a burl pattern only to have the ink evaporate.

I'm using the Gan's ink that Dunham recommends in his book. Any thoughts?
Thank you,
Tom
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Old 08-31-2013, 02:34 AM   #2
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Default Re: 33-34 Woodgraining

How do Tom .It is possible that your base colour is adsorbing the graining medium ,The top coat clear is melting the base .You could possible try a 2 K base and see how that goes as the top coat is unlikely to disturb it ,Ted
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Old 08-31-2013, 05:02 AM   #3
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Default Re: 33-34 Woodgraining

you could also try water base ink and try dusting the clear on ,plenty of time between coats
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Old 08-31-2013, 06:41 AM   #4
Zeke...PA
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Default Re: 33-34 Woodgraining

I used a black two part epoxy base, followed by red oxide lacquer, and a mix of black enamel, some red & black mix thinned heavily. Used some sponge to apply, then the clear coat enamel. Depends on how much time you put into it as to the out come. Less sponge effect is more after the clear. The metal form is my test strip. Zeke
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Old 08-31-2013, 07:40 AM   #5
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Default Re: 33-34 Woodgraining

Try using the ink that Grain-it Technologies sells. I have used both their water based ink and oil based ink with great luck. They also have the proper color for 33,34 Fords.

also, I did have a similar problem as my3window has described when I was experimenting with various stages of gloss on my base color. The ink does not like to be applied to any gloss surfaces. it does want to roll off or disappear. I use a fine scotch brite after my base dries to give my ink some Tooth.
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Old 08-31-2013, 08:29 AM   #6
FL&WVMIKE
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Default Re: 33-34 Woodgraining

Here is a close up photo of some original Ford woodgraining, on an ashtray.
It looks, to me, that the black covers about 50% of the dash.
MIKE
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Old 10-05-2013, 12:32 AM   #7
grain-it
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Default Re: 33-34 Woodgraining

Hi here is a photo
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Old 10-05-2013, 12:36 AM   #8
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Default Re: 33-34 Woodgraining

My name is Jaime Torres I do woodgraining I worked for Nick Alexander for 20 years
http://www.flickr.com/photos/13866891@N08/page1/
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Old 10-05-2013, 01:03 AM   #9
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Default Re: 33-34 Woodgraining

Jaime,that is some impressive work.
Lawrie
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Old 10-05-2013, 01:17 AM   #10
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Default Re: 33-34 Woodgraining

Thanks Larry
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