Carb leaking like a sieve

[Redbird]

Help!!! I just added a pencil filter to the fuel valve and a rebuild filter in the cast iron sediment bowl. I start adding gas and the carb is leaking pretty good. Car out in the driveway now. Is a float stuck after sitting for a day? How do I go about it from here?

[larrys40]

tap the side front side carb with a light hammer or screwdriver and see if the float becomes unstuck. It could be there is dirt in the needle/seat..etc.
If that doesn't do it pull it apart and see what's going on. Nothing easy about carbs at times....
I test all needle/seats with a vacuum pump/gauge. if it holds vacuum it will be OK. If not it will leak.
Good luck!
Larry

[Mitch//pa]

after reading about all the crap you pulled out of the sediment bulb no doubt junk went into the needle / seat. make sure you clean out that bowl real good.. i like to remove them and sand blast the inside...
then most likely youll need to clean out the float valve
also clean the fuel line inside and carb inlet screen
blow everything out incld the passage in the carb to the float valve

[Tom Wesenberg]

X2 what Mitch said. Remove the line at the carb and let the gas run full flow into a quart jar until it's about half full. This should flush any remaining junk out of the line. Then I'd remove the carb and blow all the passages out after removing the inlet screen. I like to use original an needle and seat that I lap in with toothpaste.

Once I was driving slowly into a parking lot when the carb acted like it was starting to flood. I turned off the tank valve and continued to drive until the engine started to miss. I then turned the valve back on and the rush of gas cleaned out the needle and seat.

[Benson]

A word of warning about using compressed air to clean out the inlet and inlet filter.

DO NOT apply air pressure to the inlet, inlet strainer port or to the vent hole in rear of the carb while carb is assembled.

Remove the large bolt and split the castings before using air.

If you use air on an assembled carb the float bowl will be pressurized and the float will be collapsed and be ruined.

I have not tested to see what the minimum pressure was, that collapsed the float but I collapsed one with an OSHA air nozzle ... the OSHA nozzles are limited to about 30 lbs.

[Redbird]

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Mitch/Tom, I drained all the gas by disconnecting the line to the carb before touching the sediment bulb or the fuel valve. The gas came out clear as can be. That is why I was really surprised to see all the crud in the sediment filter. After removing the fuel shutoff, I dumped a little gas in the tank and rocked the car and no crud came out of the tank. The tank looks really good from the topside. The cork float looks real good and I put the spark arrestor/fuel strainer back in that came with a box of parts with the car. I tapped the carb as mentioned, dumped in a little more fuel and it started and the fuel leak stopped. I have a rebuild kit for the Tillotson carb and may tackle that this week just to be sure.

[Kurt in NJ]

I would shut off the fuel, start and run the engine till the carb runs out of fuel, then turn on the gas ---this flushes out the float valve

[Redbird]

Thank you guys.

[Redbird]

Just finished rebuilding the Tillotson this evening and will try to install tomorrow. The rebuild went pretty easy and blew air both ways through all internal passages.

[Redbird]

Did't take 10 minutes to put back on. Turned on the gas and she fired right up. I set the air mixture 3/4 open and it runs like a top. I just can't get over how simple that carb is versus the WCFB on my last 62 vette. Before and after pics.

[Mitch//pa]

nice job

[Brentwood Bob]

Wow.

[Mike V. Florida]

Way to go!!

[Y-Blockhead]

Whoa!! What did you do, rebuild the carb in your kitchen sink? I see salt n' pepper in the background.
If I tried that I wouldn't have to WORRY about my carb leaking anymore (or anything else)...

[burner31]

Back in the early '70's I rebuilt my Harley in the livingroom, only thing mama was pissed about was it took to long.
Wrapped some lights around the engine (it was sitting on a table) and that was our Christmas tree that years.
That would never fly now.
"Women is funny people"

[burner31]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

X2 what Mitch said. Remove the line at the carb and let the gas run full flow into a quart jar until it's about half full. This should flush any remaining junk out of the line. Then I'd remove the carb and blow all the passages out after removing the inlet screen. I like to use original an needle and seat that I lap in with toothpaste.

Once I was driving slowly into a parking lot when the carb acted like it was starting to flood. I turned off the tank valve and continued to drive until the engine started to miss. I then turned the valve back on and the rush of gas cleaned out the needle and seat.

One of the benefits to having the fuel valve in the cab.

[Farrell In Vancouver]

Way to get her done Redbird!
One for Benson:If you use air on an assembled carb the float bowl will be pressurized and the float will be collapsed and be ruined.
Can you run me threw the mechanics of this? I thought the bowls had atmospheric vents?

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Farrell In Vancouver

Way to get her done Redbird!
One for Benson:If you use air on an assembled carb the float bowl will be pressurized and the float will be collapsed and be ruined.
Can you run me threw the mechanics of this? I thought the bowls had atmospheric vents?

Pretty sure my air compressor can put out more CFM than a carb vent can handle... just sayin'.

[Redbird]

I disassembled the carb, soaked in a can of carb cleaner, used a tooth brush to clean the parts, blew air thru all passages, reassembled with a new needle & seat, gasket, backed off the air mixture screw 3/4 turn and good to go. I assembled on the kitchen counter.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Nice job.

I did mine in the kitchen also. Single guys can get away with it.