The Ford Barn

1931 flamingo · 01-24-2011, 07:05 PM

I hope this doesn't start a big stir. In the latest "Restorer" along with edsel ford" clone is an article on a "fix" for rear main leak. Any body besides the author tried this? This is for info only as happily mine does NOT leak (surprised me). Thanks in advance.
Paul in CT

Ron in Quincy · 01-24-2011, 11:09 PM

There was a previous post on this subject; I'll repost my previous answer.

A number of years ago, after breaking down a nymber of engines, two of the engines had this modification which had been done a number of years before. The only difference, the drilled hole was 3/16".

One of our clib members, when I lived in Sacramento, CA, had a leaking rear main; we made this modification; that was over 20 years ago and the present owner of the A still doesn't have a rear main leak problem.

I believe the modification is valid !!!

Ron

BCCHOPIT · 01-24-2011, 11:15 PM

Could some one post a scan of the article or post pics of the mod. on there engine.
Thanks Bill

1931 flamingo · 01-25-2011, 06:53 PM

TTT
Paul in CT

James Rogers · 01-25-2011, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

I hope this doesn't start a big stir. In the latest "Restorer" along with edsel ford" clone is an article on a "fix" for rear main leak. Any body besides the author tried this? This is for info only as happily mine does NOT leak (surprised me). Thanks in advance.
Paul in CT

I would need to read the article before I make a statement. I think I know what the article is about.

PC/SR · 01-25-2011, 11:52 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I have seen a couple of these caps in "junk" boxes. Seems like a band aid to me at best, and is at least going to reduce or eliminate oil on the thrust surface of the rear main. A properly restored bearing does not leak more than a few drops. I think it was Herm who said he never heard of a bearing failing because of too much oil. The other side of that is that they will fail from too little oil (duh).

fritznbud · 01-26-2011, 02:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by [email protected]

Could some one post a scan of the article or post pics of he mod. one there engine.
Thanks Bill

I believe sometimes we forget there is more than a couple of people here...but i had a blast anyway looking for this article to no avail. Way to go, keep us all in suspense

1931 flamingo · 01-26-2011, 09:33 AM

I have no way to scan and post.
Paul in CT

Harold frm Sebastopol · 01-27-2011, 12:44 AM

This copy of "It Worked For Me" was given to me about 3 years ago. Very crude to say the least!

Note the reference to a "Mechanics Monthly" (1934 magazine ?). No author. No size of added hole. The added groove does not intersect the cap oil "reservoir" as Don Brown's Restorer article shows (picture C). I think the added groove should not get oil from the reservoir; it just picks up oil heading to leak at the rear and dumps it into the existing oil return.

ivoryjohn · 01-27-2011, 12:59 AM

I talked to my 78 year old guru of all things Henry and he says this quick fix will only work on new rear mains because the old ones are likely broken. I badly need a fix because my car leaks like I am dragging a hose. He suggest I live with the problem until I am ready to rebuild the engine. I suspect he doesn't think that day is very far off. I'll be paying close attention to the answers you get!

50B · 01-27-2011, 02:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron in Quincy

There was a previous post on this subject; I'll repost my previous answer.

A number of years ago, after breaking down a nymber of engines, two of the engines had this modification which had been done a number of years before. The only difference, the drilled hole was 3/16".

One of our clib members, when I lived in Sacramento, CA, had a leaking rear main; we made this modification; that was over 20 years ago and the present owner of the A still doesn't have a rear main leak problem.

I believe the modification is valid !!!

Ron

Ron:

Who is the owner.

Jerry Bengel

Ron in Quincy · 01-27-2011, 03:11 AM

Jerry,

Patrick sold the Speedster to Jacobs, this is the engine the modification was done to; Jacobs sold the Speedster to Darrel Kehlet; after Darrel passed away the car went to Olie Kehlet; Olie still has the Speedster; I just saw all the Kehlet boys, except for Easy, a few weeks ago. I asked Olie how the Speedster was running ? Olie said fine, and the rear main is still not leaking.

Ron

The engine in the Speedster came out of Patrick's 30 Coupe so it was a used running engine when we did the modification.

James Rogers · 01-27-2011, 06:42 AM

OK, I have done this to a couple of motors in the past and other "fixes" that "cure" the dreaded rear main leak. I find lots of caps that have the hole drilled in them for this mod. It seems to have been a common "cure" for a long time and is not new. The drilled hole makes for a problem when it does come time for a rebuild because it has to be plugged which is not hard to do but, it is hard to clear the plug afterward. If the plug is not sufficiently cleared the rear main will leak and the hole will have to be redone. I have never been able to redrill a hole that is completely hidden without missing. This, in my opinion, reduces the strength of the cap and makes it look like swiss cheese.

Rear main leaks can be caused by several things like too much clearance at the bearing, too much clearance at the thrust, plugged return channel in the cap and, broken babbitt, to name a few. The only real cure is to replace the bearings.The engine was designed to not leak except for a slight amount, that however, can be annoying to some people. I would not recommend this to those engines but for a quick fix to get by till the engine can be rebuilt, it is a way to slow oil leaks.

Another quick fix is to drill a 1/8" hole in the down tube above the rear main. This won't hurt the engine but, like the previously mentioned, is only a band-aid fix and won't compare to a proper bearing repair. The one thing better about the tube hole is, it is somewhat easier to repair by replacing the tube and, yes they can be replaced. The one thing this "fix" does is it lets the oil drain directly into the pan and leaves some in the tube below the hole for start-up if the bearing will hold any at all, If not nothing will help and dry start-ups will eventually cause catastrophic failure.

I agree also with Harold, that the groove should intersect the wells to do the job it is being done for. The way it is depicted in these pictures and the same way I have seen it done is just a mickey mouse fix and won't do much good. If anyone tries this, make the groove go all the way from one well to the other and intersect the hole in the middle. Just make sure you don't cut too deep and compromise the strength of the bearing material and cause a crack.

Hope this helps explain this "repair".

01-24-2011, 07:05 PM	#1
1931 flamingo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new britain,ct 06052 Posts: 9,390	Rear main leak I hope this doesn't start a big stir. In the latest "Restorer" along with edsel ford" clone is an article on a "fix" for rear main leak. Any body besides the author tried this? This is for info only as happily mine does NOT leak (surprised me). Thanks in advance. Paul in CT

01-24-2011, 11:09 PM	#2
Ron in Quincy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Quincy, CA. Posts: 1,708	Re: Rear main leak There was a previous post on this subject; I'll repost my previous answer. A number of years ago, after breaking down a nymber of engines, two of the engines had this modification which had been done a number of years before. The only difference, the drilled hole was 3/16". One of our clib members, when I lived in Sacramento, CA, had a leaking rear main; we made this modification; that was over 20 years ago and the present owner of the A still doesn't have a rear main leak problem. I believe the modification is valid !!! Ron

01-24-2011, 11:15 PM	#3
BCCHOPIT Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Torrington, CT Posts: 609	Re: Rear main leak Could some one post a scan of the article or post pics of the mod. on there engine. Thanks Bill __________________ WAC that banger in the A$$ and drive it home hard http://waccustoms.com Last edited by BCCHOPIT; 01-26-2011 at 08:53 PM.

01-25-2011, 06:53 PM	#4
1931 flamingo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new britain,ct 06052 Posts: 9,390	Re: Rear main leak TTT Paul in CT

01-25-2011, 11:52 PM	#6
PC/SR Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Santa Rosa, CA Posts: 1,278	Re: Rear main leak Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I have seen a couple of these caps in "junk" boxes. Seems like a band aid to me at best, and is at least going to reduce or eliminate oil on the thrust surface of the rear main. A properly restored bearing does not leak more than a few drops. I think it was Herm who said he never heard of a bearing failing because of too much oil. The other side of that is that they will fail from too little oil (duh).

01-26-2011, 09:33 AM	#8
1931 flamingo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new britain,ct 06052 Posts: 9,390	Re: Rear main leak I have no way to scan and post. Paul in CT

01-27-2011, 12:59 AM	#10
ivoryjohn Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: picauyne ms. Posts: 251	Re: Rear main leak I talked to my 78 year old guru of all things Henry and he says this quick fix will only work on new rear mains because the old ones are likely broken. I badly need a fix because my car leaks like I am dragging a hose. He suggest I live with the problem until I am ready to rebuild the engine. I suspect he doesn't think that day is very far off. I'll be paying close attention to the answers you get!

01-27-2011, 03:11 AM	#12
Ron in Quincy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Quincy, CA. Posts: 1,708	Re: Rear main leak Jerry, Patrick sold the Speedster to Jacobs, this is the engine the modification was done to; Jacobs sold the Speedster to Darrel Kehlet; after Darrel passed away the car went to Olie Kehlet; Olie still has the Speedster; I just saw all the Kehlet boys, except for Easy, a few weeks ago. I asked Olie how the Speedster was running ? Olie said fine, and the rear main is still not leaking. Ron The engine in the Speedster came out of Patrick's 30 Coupe so it was a used running engine when we did the modification. Last edited by Ron in Quincy; 01-27-2011 at 03:13 AM. Reason: Addl. info

01-27-2011, 06:42 AM	#13
James Rogers Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Asheville,NC Posts: 3,104	Re: Rear main leak OK, I have done this to a couple of motors in the past and other "fixes" that "cure" the dreaded rear main leak. I find lots of caps that have the hole drilled in them for this mod. It seems to have been a common "cure" for a long time and is not new. The drilled hole makes for a problem when it does come time for a rebuild because it has to be plugged which is not hard to do but, it is hard to clear the plug afterward. If the plug is not sufficiently cleared the rear main will leak and the hole will have to be redone. I have never been able to redrill a hole that is completely hidden without missing. This, in my opinion, reduces the strength of the cap and makes it look like swiss cheese. Rear main leaks can be caused by several things like too much clearance at the bearing, too much clearance at the thrust, plugged return channel in the cap and, broken babbitt, to name a few. The only real cure is to replace the bearings.The engine was designed to not leak except for a slight amount, that however, can be annoying to some people. I would not recommend this to those engines but for a quick fix to get by till the engine can be rebuilt, it is a way to slow oil leaks. Another quick fix is to drill a 1/8" hole in the down tube above the rear main. This won't hurt the engine but, like the previously mentioned, is only a band-aid fix and won't compare to a proper bearing repair. The one thing better about the tube hole is, it is somewhat easier to repair by replacing the tube and, yes they can be replaced. The one thing this "fix" does is it lets the oil drain directly into the pan and leaves some in the tube below the hole for start-up if the bearing will hold any at all, If not nothing will help and dry start-ups will eventually cause catastrophic failure. I agree also with Harold, that the groove should intersect the wells to do the job it is being done for. The way it is depicted in these pictures and the same way I have seen it done is just a mickey mouse fix and won't do much good. If anyone tries this, make the groove go all the way from one well to the other and intersect the hole in the middle. Just make sure you don't cut too deep and compromise the strength of the bearing material and cause a crack. Hope this helps explain this "repair".