The Ford Barn

FrankWest · 07-06-2021, 12:44 PM

Need help as always.
I removed the transmission tower top/slider and then unscrewed the screw for plunger and there was no plunger and spring there. Now I am trying to put a new plunger and spring in the transmission tower. I must have to set the slider rods to allow these plungers and spring to fit.

cas3 · 07-06-2021, 01:44 PM

You should be able to look in the hole and see the detent notch in the shift rod, and thats where it would be easiest to get the part in, and the cover back on

bbrocksr · 07-06-2021, 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FrankWest

Need help as always.
I removed the transmission tower top/slider and then unscrewed the screw for plunger and there was no plunger and spring there. Now I am trying to put a new plunger and spring in the transmission tower. I must have to set the slider rods to allow these plungers and spring to fit.

Doesn't that plunger and spring setup go between the shift rails ? you have to
slide one shift rail out to install.
Bill

FrankWest · 07-06-2021, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bbrocksr

Doesn't that plunger and spring setup go between the shift rails ? you have to
slide one shift rail out to install.
Bill

Could be the case. I don;t know Maybe if I slide one rail out, I will see the existing plungers and spring.

Mac VP · 07-06-2021, 04:53 PM

All 32-38 shifter housings used the single spring/two plungers detent system, and they’re located between the two shifter rails. The plug in the side of the housing is merely to provide an access hole to remove and install the replacement parts. You have to remove the rail that is closest to the access hole in order to get to the parts. You have to compress the 3 pieces at the same time you are pushing the rail back in place.

FrankWest · 07-06-2021, 05:34 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Mac VP

All 32-38 shifter housings used the single spring/two plungers detent system, and they’re located between the two shifter rails. The plug in the side of the housing is merely to provide an access hole to remove and install the replacement parts. You have to remove the rail that is closest to the access hole in order to get to the parts. You have to compress the 3 pieces at the same time you are pushing the rail back in place.

wow, great

cas3 · 07-06-2021, 06:10 PM

OOPS, I was thinking of the double detent towers, sorry for this miss info, thanks mac for correction

FrankWest · 07-06-2021, 06:45 PM

I appreciate your help anyway. Maybe all the stuff is really in there between the two rails. I wonder how much and improvement I will have with a new spring and plungers?

Mac VP · 07-07-2021, 06:10 AM

The plungers are hollow and their tips will wear…..sometimes all the way through. Your comment above makes me ask, what problem are you chasing that you’re hoping this question would help you resolve?

FrankWest · 07-07-2021, 06:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mac VP

The plungers are hollow and their tips will wear…..sometimes all the way through. Your comment above makes me ask, what problem are you chasing that you’re hoping this question would help you resolve?

Car pops out of 2nd gear

FrankWest · 07-07-2021, 09:31 AM

What is the proper procedure for losing one rail to make room to insert the new plungers?
As someone who never did this before, would it be a simple matter to reposition the rail after installing the new plungers or could I get it out of alignment and cause other shifting problems.

rotorwrench · 07-07-2021, 10:06 AM

There may be other issues causing the pop out of 2nd gear. The detents help but won't always hold it during a deceleration event in 2nd. The thrust load changes and end play or other clearance issues can cause too much movement.

FrankWest · 07-07-2021, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

There may be other issues causing the pop out of 2nd gear. The detents help but won't always hold it during a deceleration event in 2nd. The thrust load changes and end play or other clearance issues can cause too much movement.

thanks, good to know

FrankWest · 07-07-2021, 10:51 AM

Is there something I can inspect for with the transmission in the car?

Terry,OH · 07-07-2021, 01:31 PM

Frank: Get Mac VanPelts book on the transmission it has all of the clearances you can check some with the transmission in the car. Post some close up photos here. The transmission syncro assembly should move on the main shaft about 3/16" back and fordward. If it does not move properly the syncro outer hub will not slide over the 2nd gear teeth properly. This could cause the trans to drop out of 2nd gear and gear grinding during shifting.

FrankWest · 07-07-2021, 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Terry,OH

Frank: Get Mac VanPelts book on the transmission it has all of the clearances you can check some with the transmission in the car. Post some close up photos here. The transmission syncro assembly should move on the main shaft about 3/16" back and fordward. If it does not move properly the syncro outer hub will not slide over the 2nd gear teeth properly. This could cause the trans to drop out of 2nd gear and gear grinding during shifting.

Great. I will check. I bought that book 5 years ago, to learn about rebuilding a transmission if I ever needed to. I have to sit down and study it.
There is Never any grinding.
Slips out of 2nd when coasting, no power applied.

Looking for the van pelt book it's been years since I saw it. Hope I don't have to buy
another copy. I hate when that happens!

Lawson Cox · 07-07-2021, 09:03 PM

Looking for the van pelt book it's been years since I saw it. Hope I don't have to buy
another copy. I hate when that happens!

That only happens with parts. LOL.

FrankWest · 07-08-2021, 11:25 AM

Here is a picture of the gearbox?

FrankWest · 07-08-2021, 11:30 AM

in reference to the shift lever and slider rails

how easy should the slide work on the shifter? Should I decrease if it does not move almost effortlessly?

DavidG · 07-08-2021, 11:44 AM

If I understand your latest question correctly, the forks on the rods in the shift lever housing only move freely between the detents and some force is required to disengage the forks from the detents, hence the spring and cups circling back to your first question at the top of the thread. Nothing is adjustable and you cannot adjust the amount of effort it takes to overcome the spring tension on the detents in the rods that the forks slide back and forth on. Wear on the cups at the ends of the spring and/or a loss of spring resiliency would of course lessen the amount of force required to disengage the forks from the detents on the rods.

07-06-2021, 01:44 PM	#2
cas3 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: sw minnesota Posts: 4,574	Re: 1933 transmission tower plunger You should be able to look in the hole and see the detent notch in the shift rod, and thats where it would be easiest to get the part in, and the cover back on

07-06-2021, 04:53 PM	#5
Mac VP Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Cincinnati, OH Posts: 1,361	Re: 1933 transmission tower plunger All 32-38 shifter housings used the single spring/two plungers detent system, and they’re located between the two shifter rails. The plug in the side of the housing is merely to provide an access hole to remove and install the replacement parts. You have to remove the rail that is closest to the access hole in order to get to the parts. You have to compress the 3 pieces at the same time you are pushing the rail back in place. __________________ VANPELT SALES LLC Cincinnati, Ohio Office: 513-724-9486 www.vanpeltsales.com www.classictransmission.com

07-06-2021, 06:10 PM	#7
cas3 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: sw minnesota Posts: 4,574	Re: 1933 transmission tower plunger OOPS, I was thinking of the double detent towers, sorry for this miss info, thanks mac for correction

07-06-2021, 06:45 PM	#8
FrankWest Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Posts: 3,005	Re: 1933 transmission tower plunger I appreciate your help anyway. Maybe all the stuff is really in there between the two rails. I wonder how much and improvement I will have with a new spring and plungers?

07-07-2021, 06:10 AM	#9
Mac VP Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Cincinnati, OH Posts: 1,361	Re: 1933 transmission tower plunger The plungers are hollow and their tips will wear…..sometimes all the way through. Your comment above makes me ask, what problem are you chasing that you’re hoping this question would help you resolve? __________________ VANPELT SALES LLC Cincinnati, Ohio Office: 513-724-9486 www.vanpeltsales.com www.classictransmission.com

07-07-2021, 09:31 AM	#11
FrankWest Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Posts: 3,005	Re: 1933 transmission tower plunger What is the proper procedure for losing one rail to make room to insert the new plungers? As someone who never did this before, would it be a simple matter to reposition the rail after installing the new plungers or could I get it out of alignment and cause other shifting problems.

07-07-2021, 10:06 AM	#12
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,432	Re: 1933 transmission tower plunger There may be other issues causing the pop out of 2nd gear. The detents help but won't always hold it during a deceleration event in 2nd. The thrust load changes and end play or other clearance issues can cause too much movement.

07-07-2021, 01:31 PM	#15
Terry,OH Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,751	Re: 1933 transmission tower plunger Frank: Get Mac VanPelts book on the transmission it has all of the clearances you can check some with the transmission in the car. Post some close up photos here. The transmission syncro assembly should move on the main shaft about 3/16" back and fordward. If it does not move properly the syncro outer hub will not slide over the 2nd gear teeth properly. This could cause the trans to drop out of 2nd gear and gear grinding during shifting.

07-07-2021, 09:03 PM	#17
Lawson Cox Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Above the gnat line in Georgia Posts: 7,009	Re: 1933 transmission tower plunger Looking for the van pelt book it's been years since I saw it. Hope I don't have to buy another copy. I hate when that happens! That only happens with parts. LOL. __________________ Life is like a roll of toilet paper. The closer to the end, the faster it goes. It is better to be seen, than viewed. "We sleep safe in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm".

07-08-2021, 11:30 AM	#19
FrankWest Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Posts: 3,005	Re: 1933 transmission tower plunger in reference to the shift lever and slider rails how easy should the slide work on the shifter? Should I decrease if it does not move almost effortlessly?

07-08-2021, 11:44 AM	#20
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,101	Re: 1933 transmission tower plunger If I understand your latest question correctly, the forks on the rods in the shift lever housing only move freely between the detents and some force is required to disengage the forks from the detents, hence the spring and cups circling back to your first question at the top of the thread. Nothing is adjustable and you cannot adjust the amount of effort it takes to overcome the spring tension on the detents in the rods that the forks slide back and forth on. Wear on the cups at the ends of the spring and/or a loss of spring resiliency would of course lessen the amount of force required to disengage the forks from the detents on the rods.