Cabriolet door latch nickel plate?

[kimeccles]

The new standards rev 2016 page G16 refer to mid 1930 Cabriolets are like 1929's and the door latch is nickel plated and also the plunger.

These are riveted to metal connectors over to the door handle. Most all is hidden under door panel and its has special springs and would be tricky to nickel plate. Can only the visible end be plated with the plunger intact by only partially submerging in the tank? Would nickel plating the plunger might make it too tight?

Also if you see my picture, what is the piece that sticks out for and it has a big gap 3/16th inch?

If I took tucked the metal edge under the folded tab circled on the left, it drops down to about 1/8 inch and it looks like it could fit under the tab OK. What is correct?

I was hoping this latch area would be painted like a 1931, but for mid 1930 it should be nickel the way I read the Cabriolet standards. Any recommendations are welcome.

[jw hash]

you need to take the latch apart repair any bad parts and have plated then put it back together. not a big deal on the early ones with the lift handle. on that tab you need too heat it up to bent it or it will break off. when finished put a little paint on the back side. the tab on the panel just is there and doing nothing.

[Kurt in NJ]

With my brothers cabriolet we hung the body upside down and he used a caswell nickel plate kit with a plating brush---- the upside down so no acids got into the painted areas to start rust-------it looks good, not as thick as "in the tank" plating, but I don't thin you need it as good as say a headlight bucket

[kimeccles]

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What are the correct 2 screws sizes for judging through the exposed end of the nickel plated door latch for the 68B shown above on the lower side of the picture that screw into the wood?

It looks like flat, slotted, #10 or #12 could work, maybe 1 or 1-1/4 long so not to hit the window edge. I need to get some nickel plated for this, so want to do the right ones. Thanks.