Relace condenser?

[jwboarman]

My 1930 Model A Tudor stopped running suddenly and won't restart.

Facts:
Plenty of gas
power to distributer and points confirmed
no spark

Is the condenser a possible problem? I have a modern set of points and condenser(mounted next to points). What replacement condenser do I buy? And?Or what do you suggest I do next?

Thank You, John

[Gary WA]

Go back to original style points!

[Tom Endy]

Get yourself a by-pass cable from one of the suppliers. It clips to the low side of the coil and screws directly into the side of the distributor. This bypasses the ignition switch and pop-out cable where likely the loss of power is. if the car does still not start the problem is inside the distributor or is a faulty coil.

Tom Endy

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by jwboarman

My 1930 Model A Tudor stopped running suddenly and won't restart.

Facts:
Plenty of gas
power to distributer and points confirmed
no spark

Is the condenser a possible problem? I have a modern set of points and condenser(mounted next to points). What replacement condenser do I buy? And?Or what do you suggest I do next?

Thank You, John

Points CS751 Echlin (new Ford style) from Napa or any Model A parts vendor.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showp...42&postcount=5

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

Yes if the condenser is bad it won’t run. Brattons has the “modern “ condenser p/n 17610

[Jacksonlll]

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Don't start changing a bunch of parts. Trace the problem. If you have power to the dist. and you snap the points, you have to get a spark unless your coil is bad, and I doubt that. Get a test light and find out what is wrong. Search youtube for Ignition system 101. Good luck.

[Sunnybrook Farm]

There are several videos on youtube on trouble shooting the electrical system and also instructions in various places. I finally researched all of this and learned to diagnose the problems with my multimeter though a test light will work. Put a piece of thin rubber between the points and with the key on there should be a reading of 6V on the point arm. Remove the rubber and when you manually open the points there should be a spark, if not then the condenser is probably bad. I have also encountered the block that rides on the dist cam to be worn to where the points ground out on the cam and no spark.

[larrys40]

John,

I do Model A repair by trade and consider my self a good troubleshooter... I had one last weekend that (31MOdelA) on fordbarn that was on the road trouble... when went to start it wouldn't but 5 minutes sooner it ran but he detected a miss previously. I troubleshooted it and there was voltage at the points and if you shorted the points spark fired normally. Problem was the points were pitted and used/burned enough that it was a poor connection at the points and would not fire when the engine was rotated.

I also suspected the condenser value low or problem since it's what is suppose to soak up the residual voltage from the pionts to keep the points from burning.
I replaced both on the road for him and it was fine.

the A&L shortproof condensers are the prefferred. Make sure you have good connections and if you know how to use a digital voltmeter use it and check for low voltage at the distributor point arm when the points are closed to ensure you are getting full voltage and connection at the points.

As Tom indicated ignition switches are also sources of trouble either at the switch or in the cable and pigtail where it screws into the distributor. When rebuilding a distributor I always glue a rubber insulator to the bse where the lower plate could contact if the pigtail or lower plate came in too far to short. It's insurance.

Larry Shepard