Front Axle 39 ?

[Flathill]

I have a 1935-5 window coupe with a 39 front axle removed from the frame. How is the wishbone removed from the axle ?
I will be restoring the axle so most of the componets need to be disassembled. The spring has beem removed but the shackes are still attached.

[rotorwrench]

I guess it depends on how rusty the axle to radius rod bolts are. I've seen them welded too but they aren't suposed to be. They are just bolted with the 2 big special bolts that link to the shock absorbers on their tops. Without seeing what you have, you may have a mix of parts between years there.

[PeterC]

Just curious why you are running a 39 axle on your 35.

[Flathill]

I checked the Green Bible and found a picture if the 39 axle. This axle is what I have. OK the nuts on the end of the big bolts are removed, then the big bolts will hopefully come out and then the radius rods can be removed from the axle.
The 39 front axle came as part of the 35 coupe with hydraulic brakes on the backing plates.
Not sure what brake hydraulic system I will go with in the future ?
I will need new brake drums but not sure which ones.
Also prefer to run the 35 wire wheels.
Presently trying to gather the componets and then put together the chassis and frame members.

[rotorwrench]

MT products and Wilson Welding both have the 39 Lincoln style Bendix brakes & backing plates that will work with the 12-inch Ford drums. Ring spacers are available to allow the Ford or Kelsey Hays wire wheels to fit the hydraulic brake components. The Lincoln/Bendix design are the easiest to keep adjusted and they will stop one of these old cars pretty well.

[V8COOPMAN]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by Flathill

I checked the Green Bible and found a picture if the 39 axle. This axle is what I have. OK the nuts on the end of the big bolts are removed, then the big bolts will hopefully come out and then the radius rods can be removed from the axle.
The 39 front axle came as part of the 35 coupe with hydraulic brakes on the backing plates.
Not sure what brake hydraulic system I will go with in the future ?
I will need new brake drums but not sure which ones.
Also prefer to run the 35 wire wheels.
Presently trying to gather the componets and then put together the chassis and frame members.

This picture MAY help with further ID of your axle. '39 axle is quite short between kingpin and perch holes. DD

[deuce_roadster]

Unless the perch bolts are so loose they rattle, you will need to do this in a press. I have a 25 ton press and most of those I have done let go at about 17 tons on the gauge. I always put a hardened nut on flush with the end of the perch to push against. Do NOT hammer on it, all you will do is mushroom the end and you will end up drilling or milling it out.

[deuce_roadster]

By the way, that picture posted of the axles has a misprint. The axle under the 32 should say "33-36". ALL 32 axles looked like the one pictured as 32. I had quite a conversation with a guy at a swap meet that was convinced B models had the 33 style axle because of this picture. Was trying to say there was a 32 "light" and 32 "heavy" axle. He said it had to be true because of this picture! And yes, I have judged 32s at EFV8 national meets.

[V8COOPMAN]

Good note, but it served the purpose for this case. DD

[deuce_roadster]

V8coopman,
NO knock on you. I was just pointing out the mistake by the person who originally made that picture, and I know it wasn't you. A 33 axle would fit in a 32 which might have been the original intention of the post. Misinformation and misunderstanding can take on a life of its own.

[V8COOPMAN]

As I said, GOOD note on your part. I should have pointed-out the info that you did. We should ALL try to clear-up these mis-conceptions when the opportunity arises. I know where you were comin' from...YOU done good! DD

[296 V8]

Having removed hundreds of perch / axle bolts id say to leave them in.
9 times out of 10 you will have a hell of a time and mushroom the bolts.

[Ol' Ron]

I was unaware that the 48 axle was different from the 42-47. Learn sumpin every day, till they throw dirt on ya.

[Ghost of elmirage]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

I was unaware that the 48 axle was different from the 42-47. Learn sumpin every day, till they throw dirt on ya.

yeah pretty much

[Ghost of elmirage]

Originally Posted by deuce_roadster

Unless the perch bolts are so loose they rattle, you will need to do this in a press. I have a 25 ton press and most of those I have done let go at about 17 tons on the gauge. I always put a hardened nut on flush with the end of the perch to push against. Do NOT hammer on it, all you will do is mushroom the end and you will end up drilling or milling it out.

So 34,000 lbs?! Holy crap

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Ghost of elmirage

So 34,000 lbs?! Holy crap

I had a '34 axle many years ago that took just about all that a 30-ton press could muster to get one perch to move. They sometimes get pretty-well "glued-in" there. DD

[296 V8]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

I was unaware that the 48 axle was different from the 42-47. Learn sumpin every day, till they throw dirt on ya.

Theres another that they dont show in the photo.
It is the same forging as the 48 but has no hole for the shock mounting.

Iv had a few and even dropped one for a buddys vintage stock car.

There’s also a replacement 32 to 36 axle that gets thicker / wider in the center …. I have one right now

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by 296 V8

There’s also a replacement 32 to 36 axle that gets thicker / wider in the center …. I have one right now

Any way you could post a pic of that replacement axle? DD

[296 V8]

Top one



The ends differ also


And a part number

[V8COOPMAN]

296...I've seen that somewhere in the distant past. Very interesting, and really appreciate the pics. Henry did some crazy stuff. DD