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Old 08-22-2018, 11:40 AM   #21
denniskliesen
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Default Re: Curing The Black Ooze

Looking at the top of the cylinders on #2 and #3, looks like discoloration. My past experience with engines that had black oil coming out, whether it was black on the outside or in the oil pan, was from lack of water and extreme heat. No matter what oil, synthetic or regular will not take a hot spot from lack of water in a cooling system. Just curious, do you have a water temp gauge and what does the oil in the crankcase look like? If you have doubts, take a sample of your oil and have it analyzed. They can tell you a lot of things your oil has gone through from heat and content of metals. Also if you do have a water temp gauge, they will very seldom show what your temperature is unless submerged in water. Also cylinder heads develop small cracks from excessive heat. look at brake drums and rotors that have been through excessive heat and notice all the cracks and hot spots. Never pour cold water in an overheated or hot engine. I've seen people do that and ruined their engine.
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Old 08-22-2018, 06:22 PM   #22
gustafson
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Default Re: Curing The Black Ooze

use of synthetic for vintage break-in guarantees rings will take forever to seat
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Old 08-23-2018, 03:09 PM   #23
DHZIEMAN
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Default Re: Curing The Black Ooze

Quote:
Originally Posted by bob bidonde View Post
since the 1st run of the rebuilt engine in my 190a, a "black ooze" has been weeping out the cylinder head gasket. My fear is that the head gasket will fail while away on a cruise, so i am in the process of replacing it.

The engine is a model "b" with the 2 extra water holes in the block plugged. The weeping gasket is a fel-pro 7013 r1. The cylinder head is a brand new spender's 5:5:1 model "a" head. Compression readings were normal. The 7013 r1 was coated with copper gasket sealer when i installed it. Re-torquing of the head bolts a few times did not stop the ooze. Barr's stop leak did not stop the ooze. In my opinion, the 7013 r1 gasket is the culprit.
The new gasket is a 7013 r3. what is the difference between the r1 and the r3? I need some confidence that the r3 will solve the black ooze problem.
xxx

Last edited by DHZIEMAN; 08-23-2018 at 03:14 PM. Reason: Delete
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Old 08-24-2018, 08:55 PM   #24
James Rogers
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Default Re: Curing The Black Ooze

You can keep on wishing the head and block are flat but, in my opinion, something is warped and needs to be machined flat. The areas you show where #2 and #3 are leaking to the outside of the engine is where I find most blocks to be warped. Remember, .003 is enough to cause problems and gasket failures.
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