Wishbone ball sockett replacement

[Steve_Mack_CT]

Guys can this be done from the ground and if so, does wishbone need to be removed? Assembly, but not replacement while car is in service is all I can find in my books.

Thanks - appreciate any tips on this.

[jw hash]

if the bolts are good. just take the nuts off and pull the wishbone down and replace the socket. if you are replacing the bolts too, that is a little tricky, but it can be done.

[Steve_Mack_CT]

Thank you JW!

I was thinking that jacking up the frame a bit might make it easier to pull the wishbone down, although maybe it has more give than I am expecting. I do need to replace the bolts as mine are a real mess. I bought the original style socket and spacer kit, not the rubber ball kit based on everything I have seen so far. Looks like you can fish out the bolts and replace through the little hole at the base of the bell housing.

[Licensed to kill]

What symptoms were you experiencing that made you decide to change the wishbone ball/socket?.

[Barry B./ Ma.]

Make sure you tie a string around the threads of those bolts, if they don't drop into their holes they end up falling to the other side of the flywheel.

PS I was changing from the rubber ball type to the steel original type and the shorter spade bolts were required. I ended up unbolting the flywheel housing and raising the engine up then the bolt fell out.

[SeaSlugs]

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also be aware many housings have been bored into by the tougher steel ball bolts so the thin pin thats supposed to go thru the heads to keep them from rotating no longer does anything as the bolt heads have sunk past the pin. Your ball halves should not be touching when properly assembled and the nuts should be just tight enough to slip the cotter thru.The springs should be compressed some and that depends on how much your bolts have bored. You can make spacers to sit under the bolt heads to raise them up so the thin pin locks them in place. Might be kinda tricky in the car though.

on my AA the wishbone ball wanted to pop out of the hole downward so be aware of that (aka dont put your face under it) theres not alot of force but the front spring wants to natuarly keep the wishbone parallel to the frame IF your spring eyes, shackles, and perches are all good and up to spec. The wishbone ball is what gives the front axle the 3* castor. Its not that bad but much easier to use a 4x4 across the wishbone and a jack to help hold it while you get the bottom cup, springs, and nuts on by hand.

[Marshall V. Daut]

If you have the rubber ball mounting system in place, those bolts will be too long for the original style mounting style. You'll run out of threads before the large nuts are adjusted properly. It's no big deal to remove the old bolts and install the new ones in the kit. You just can't have real fat and short fingers.
You'll need to remove the oily, soggy felt pad that is stuffed up inside the large hole. It's pushed up against the long retaining pin. Then remove the pin's small cotter pin and withdraw it from the bellhousing. It's usually bent, so straighten it before re-installing it. These pins were made of very weak metal in the 1980's and bend easily. They're better now, so order a new one.
The holes in the bellhousing for the special bolts are probably wallowed out. They usually are. You should be able to run the string, wire or fishing line through the cotter pin holes before pushing the bolts up and out inside the bellhousing. I bent the tips of a long needle nose pliers so that I could reach up through the large center hole and grab the bolt shanks as the bolts are gently pushed upwards. Then withdraw them. The string/wire/fishing line is only a safety backup to prevent the bolts from falling inside the bellhousing or flywheel housing (doubtful). Put safety wire or fishing line through the cotter pin holes in the new bolts, snake the other end of the wire/fishing line up through the hole and then down each bolt hole. Reach the bolt up inside the bellhousing, making sure it is held upright. When approximately over the bolt hole, pull the string and the bolt will drop in place. Twist both bolts so that the slots line up with the long retaining pin you either removed and straightened or the new pin.
While you're at it, you might as well replace the felt pad inside the hole.
Marshall

[Marshall V. Daut]

I was typing my reply when "SeaSlugs" was posting his. Combine the salient points from each description.
Marshall

[Steve_Mack_CT]

Thanks guys - this is all great information and much appreciated!!

Licensed to Kill, I am getting the "death wobble" intermittently on hard stops. Car generally tracks pretty true going down the road, although I also have a sloppy steering box, I just bought a rebuilt unit, but I have driven much worse "A"s in that area. Since I don't get a lot of wander with 2" of wheel play I know that is a factor, but figure it is time on the socket as well. Will be looking at the rest of the front end with a friend who is more knowledgeable than I am. I suspect more work will want to be done as we like driving and want to be comfortable going fairly good distances.

Also, when I inspected the socket in the car now, it does not appear to have the collar and springs, and I am thinking it might be the rubber ball type unit, but I do not know for sure yet. The bolts are a mess and appear to be soft metal, and they turn when you try to adjust so the pin might be bent, gone or whatever. They will be fun to get off... The good news is that the wishbone itself looks fine - no obvious damage or bends.

Marshall, I figured for a couple bucks I would buy the spacer, felt, and pin. Really appreciate the tips - once again Fordbarn is a fantastic tool!!

[SeaSlugs]

Oh and when you get your new bolts and nuts spacers springs and whatnot make sure the nuts thread easily by hand. Mine had burrs from when they drilled the cotter holes. Much easier to run a die down it on the workbench....

[Licensed to kill]

Thanks Steve. I'm new to these original A's and am just going through my new toy making adjustments when required and basically looking for possible issues. Will have it back up on he lift in about a week when the rest of my rear brake parts arrive. How would i check the condition of the wishbone ball?.

[Steve_Mack_CT]

Well, I am replacing due to the symptoms, the feedback on the Barn and in speaking with other "A" folks that this is a likely suspect, especially since I see nothing bent or loose, and I really only experience issues on hard stops.

Also, when I inspected underneath, while I could not seem to check for excessive play by wiggling the wishbone (which is probably because it is under pressure) I think I have the rubber ball solution and I know they break down with time, and the bolts are a mess. Last, the investment in parts is around $25 - 30 so for me a no brainer. Don't need to wait for my "A" expert buddy (who works third shift so not always easy to get together) thanks to the advice from this group.

Good luck with your brakes. On my list, even though prior owner did brakes, and was a mechanic, I want to really go through them and convert to the cast drums. Had those on another A and I really believe they make a huge difference. Still compared to our sports cars especially, I try to follow the advice another "A" owner gave me when we got our first "A" - whenever possible, PLAN YOUR STOPS!

[Marshall V. Daut]

To check the wishbone ball, support the car under the frame rails so that the front end hangs free. Then wiggle the radius rods up and down near the ball to check for slop. If you try to do this with the car on the ground or the front end sitting on jack stands, the weight of the car will not allow you to gauge undersized ball looseness. If you feel any movement inside the clamshells, order the half-ball shim and place it on TOP of the ball. That will take up the slop and also restore the caster of the front end, which is altered by a worn radius ball.
Marshall

[1crosscut]

I'm pretty cautious when I loosen up the ball joint. The only thing holding the front axle in place is the two u-bolts at the center of the axle. I know they are pretty strong but... if rusted or cracked the axle could fold over allowing the car/truck to fall. I always put jack stands under the frame.