The Ford Barn

Zkron · 04-18-2018, 06:04 PM

Hello
Can someone direct me to where I can find dimensions or measurements for installing new subrails and patch panels on my 31 coupe? I don’t have much to work with from the original ones.
Any and all help greatly appreciated.
Thank You Leon

jtucker · 04-19-2018, 12:26 PM

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I replaced the rear half subrails on my '31 coupe...turned out to be fairly easy. I had my body off the frame.

Cut the old subrails out just behind the doorposts as square as possible. I supported the body with homemade stands through the deck lid rubber bumper holes at the top of the trunk/rumble opening and used jackstands at the at the firewall. I replaced the rear crossmember at the same time. Fitting the rear cross member to the new subrails (not yet riveted as there are no rivet holes in the new crossmember for the subrails...that allows for some slack in positioning the subrails front to back and vertically through use of another jackstand. Weld in the new subrails, the rivet the crossmember and subrails. Don't know if any of this would help with a full ubrail replacement. For patchpanels, remember that they wrap around the subrails with welting between panel and subrails...that helps with vertical positioning.

04-18-2018, 06:04 PM	#1
Zkron Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2018 Posts: 1	Model A panel/subrail help is Hello Can someone direct me to where I can find dimensions or measurements for installing new subrails and patch panels on my 31 coupe? I don’t have much to work with from the original ones. Any and all help greatly appreciated. Thank You Leon

04-19-2018, 12:26 PM	#2
jtucker Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Roseville, MN Posts: 32	Re: Model A panel/subrail help is Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I replaced the rear half subrails on my '31 coupe...turned out to be fairly easy. I had my body off the frame. Cut the old subrails out just behind the doorposts as square as possible. I supported the body with homemade stands through the deck lid rubber bumper holes at the top of the trunk/rumble opening and used jackstands at the at the firewall. I replaced the rear crossmember at the same time. Fitting the rear cross member to the new subrails (not yet riveted as there are no rivet holes in the new crossmember for the subrails...that allows for some slack in positioning the subrails front to back and vertically through use of another jackstand. Weld in the new subrails, the rivet the crossmember and subrails. Don't know if any of this would help with a full ubrail replacement. For patchpanels, remember that they wrap around the subrails with welting between panel and subrails...that helps with vertical positioning.